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Messages - Grant1Shepherd
51
« on: 15 July 2017, 10:40:54 pm »
Most people who change end up with a double bubble with the intention of reducing wind blast but there are mixed experiences report on what if any difference they make I believe on the foxeye they make more difference than the boxeye. I have a DB screen on my boxeye and I found there is no difference in wind blast.
I'm not really after any performance boost I literally just want a nicer looking screen that's all 
52
« on: 15 July 2017, 07:13:05 pm »
Hey guys Looking to replace the standard screen on my boxeye FZS 600, was wondering what everyone's got or come across before? Any links as well would be much appreciated. Thanks in advance guys 
53
« on: 15 July 2017, 07:06:43 pm »
More than ok, I put a set on my Fazer 600 and haven't regretted it since, feels so much more comfortable now
54
« on: 23 June 2017, 07:16:01 pm »
The inlet rubbers look to be oil free so I would suggest it isnt coming from the top end of teh engine. Theres no oil near the carbs apart from, as Fazerider says, the crankcase breather.
Check inside the airbox to see if thats full of oil.
Looking at the pictures under the engine, teh oil is coming from the back ratehr than the front which ties in with teh oil under the carbs.
So most likely is it coming from the gasket? What about all the hosing around that area, they are covered in oil is there any chance it could be leaking from one of them?
55
« on: 23 June 2017, 05:03:21 pm »
Hi guys
Just went up to my bike (it's been stood for 4 days not started or anything) and notice a tiny puddle of oil.
The bottom of the slump is covered in oil as well but it appears to be coming from even higher than that.
Oil level has gone down but not by much. I have attached a few photos of the problem.
Can anyone let me know where they think the leak is coming from and why and how to sort it out please.
Thanks in advance.
56
« on: 21 June 2017, 01:54:25 am »
Hi,
I will be having mine vapour, aqua or wet blasted.
http://www.fjaquablasting.co.uk/index.html
Just not sure how to protect the alu after.
I will take advice from the shop.
How much are they charging you to do both forks?
57
« on: 19 June 2017, 11:54:08 pm »
Thanks everyone for all the help and advice. There seems to be many different ways to sort this issue out. What I'm wondering now really is what is the best thing to do?
The idea of painting them black is appealing because it's easier.
But they would look nice as well if they were just cleaned up with Autosol and a lot of hard work - But how long would this take? is it even possible by hand?
Look forward to seeing what you guys think?
58
« on: 17 June 2017, 10:54:59 am »
I'm using castol power 1 racing 10w-40 fully.
I did an oil change in early May where at the same time i put some Wynn's engine flush in it, however this problem first started before all this when i was riding home from Ireland in mid April.
59
« on: 17 June 2017, 03:48:41 am »
Also if the oil level sensor is just that, a level sensor and not a pressure switch and the oil level is correct there is not problem, as someone quite rightly pointed out the oil is rushing to the rear of the engine under hard acceleration, if this is the case just the viscosity of the oil would make a huge difference as well.
Now I am no mechanic but I think the advice being given is sound, as long as the level is correct within the 'Max' and 'Min' marks with both wheels on level ground, should be good to go, I keep mine at about 3/4's up the sight glass.
As Darrsi said over filling could bring another set of problems like blown or leaking engine seals.
Thanks Tommy And thank you to everyone else who has offered some pretty solid advice. Since topping her up yesterday i didnt get the problem today, will look to see what happenens but may end up just changing the sensor and seeing if that works.
60
« on: 15 June 2017, 03:49:23 pm »
UPDATE
Ok so today I've been riding around Worcestershire and I've noticed the light only comes on when I'm accelerating hard in 2nd just after the gear change from 1st.
Currently I'm pulled over at the side of the road as we speak as it has just done it 3 times in a row from accelerating off ref lights and I don't want it to blow up.
I've got some oil with me so I'm going to give her some and hope it makes her happier 😓
61
« on: 15 June 2017, 10:48:37 am »
Right so recently I have decided to just do nothing about the issue, I've checked the oil thats about it but it seemed fine so didnt bother topping it up.
I then decided to go to Worcester from London and visit a few old friends thinking a fairly long trip blasting it down the M40/M42 would make the light come on again as i wasn't hanging about 😉😂.
Throughout the whole journey nothing happened, no light no nothing, this just shows how temperamental this issue has been. Sometimes I'm riding fairly quickly and the light just pops on for literally 1 second, but yet i can go nealy 200 miles on motorways doing motorway speeds (definitely motorway speeds😉😂) and not have the light come on once.
62
« on: 08 June 2017, 10:08:40 pm »
63
« on: 08 June 2017, 10:08:06 pm »
Put bike on centre stand on level ground
Start engine and let tickover for one minute
Turn ignition off
Watch the oil window until it settles, which will probably take about a minute
That's your oil level
Next to the oil window there are lower and upper markings on the engine casing, you want the oil level about two thirds to three quarters of the way up between the markers
Once the oil level settles, if you need to add more, do a SMALL AMOUNT at a time, then REPEAT THE ABOVE PROCESS.
Don't start pouring it in for fun, 'cos you don't want too much in there either, as that can cause other problems.
Chances are that right now you simply haven't got enough in there, i'm guessing due to you judging the oil level with a cold unstarted engine.
The window on my bike has clouded up now, so i have to fill it up by measurement alone.
Once emptied and a new filter fitted i've put in about 2.8 litres to be safe.
If you aren't changing the oil filter this time around then it's a 2.5 litre sump, so that's a good figure to start with, you can simply pour that amount in knowing you safely have enough to begin with, then top up if needed after going through the usual procedure.
Luckily i never ever have to top up between changes, and i change the oil every 4000 miles so it's not too much of a big deal, although i've decided to replace the oil filter every time now as the filters are so inexpensive.
When I checked it yesterday after the light came on I got home from my 45 minute ride, turned the bike off, waited 5 minutes and then check the oil level and it was fine. I got confused by this as I can't understand why the light would come of for a split second
64
« on: 07 June 2017, 11:33:29 pm »
I topped it up with a little dash of the same oil from the change.
Would you say that was about an egg cup full
Hmm possibly, give or take
65
« on: 07 June 2017, 11:32:21 pm »
The oil warning light is an oil level sensor, not an oil pressure sensor. When you give it some...... the oil in the sump is sloshing to the back and away from the sensor. Top it up a little more so the glass has oil almost to the top. Should stop coming on then. Either that, or stop doing wheelies 
Ah I was thinking maybe there is just a split second where the oil goes below the senor and so it triggers the light, will top it up again and see if it stops it. p.s But wheelies are so much fun 
66
« on: 07 June 2017, 10:22:30 pm »
Hi guys A couple months ago on my way back to London from Ireland my oil warning light came on for a split second when I changed gear at high RPM, this was no bother as I just pulled over, noticed my Oil level was a little lower than normal and topped it up. As soon as I got back to London I did an Oil and filter change, a few days later I was then changing gear again and the light came on for another split second (good thing my eyes keep catching it ). I checked the oil level later that day and noticed I didn't put as much oil as allowed in when I did the change, Oil was about a quarter way up the glass so I topped it up with a little dash of the same oil from the change. Tonight I was riding home from the Bike Shed and there was a moment where I gave it a few decent high revs (7-9K RPM) in 2nd gear and the light came on again for another tiny second but as soon as I ease off the throttle it went off, I spent the rest of the journey home trying to get the light to come on again to work out what is happening but I couldn't do it, which has left me confused. Why does the Oil light occasionally just come on for a split second when either changing gears at high RPM or riding in high RPM's? Hope someone can help me out. Thanks guys
67
« on: 02 June 2017, 07:37:30 pm »
Hello mate
R&G do bar ends that fit. The have a different fitting but are long.
I'm sure Renthal will have an option too.
Do you know how exactly the R&G one's fit on? if they are anything like the Oxford one's they won't last
68
« on: 02 June 2017, 01:09:24 pm »
Sand them back, primer then paint them. I did mine black and really pleased with them.
Chris
What about the old lacquer though doesn't that make the paint not go on so well?
69
« on: 02 June 2017, 01:07:13 pm »
Hi guys Recently put some Renthal 758's on my fzs600 and brought some tiny Oxford bar ends to make sure they didn't stick out to much. Worked for about a month but sadly yesterday one of them fell out whilst riding and I didn't notice it  So now I need some new bar ends that will fit Renthal 758's, looking for some that have a better securing to the handlebars than the Oxford one's, was wondering if there was any handlebar guards that fit the Renthal 758's? Hope you guys can help me out. Cheers
70
« on: 30 May 2017, 11:05:15 pm »
Hi guys
So the time has come where i need to address my forks, as you can see from the pictures attached they both have got this weird white rush on them.
It is really starting to get me down as it is now the worst part of the bike and I really need to do something about it.
Was wondering what my options are exactly? I am fully open to suggestions and would love to hear what you all recommend.
Thanks guys
71
« on: 12 May 2017, 10:06:26 pm »
Upgraded Sprocket nut: http://www.wemoto.com/bikes/yamaha/fzs_600_fazer_sp/00/picture/sprocket_front_retaining_nut_kit_oem/
You can probably get other stuff you need on that site as well, otherwise I shockingly found evilbay to be very helpful finding parts I've needed.
Thanks mate, that's cheaper than expected, was so annoyed to find the original sprocket nut and tab on it when I thought everyone would of changed them when Yamaha released an upgraded nut
Mine never had the new nut either, I was just so lucky that when I changed my chain and sprockets a few months back that I never lost any of the thread as the old nut was hanging off and the lock washer was all chewed up.
Similar story with mine, it was literally hard tight 
73
« on: 12 May 2017, 02:24:44 pm »
Hi guys
Over the last week my 2001 FZS 600 has ran into a lot of problems (A LOT) she is all fixed and running again for now however it has left me needing some things.
The fuel hose leaked and now I am looking for 9mm reinforced fuel hose to replace the temp fix it's got now.
I also change the chain and sprockets and now desperately need the upgraded lock nut and tap for the front sprocket as mine still has the dodgy original one.
Hope someone can help me with links to these items, would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks guys.
74
« on: 28 April 2017, 10:16:03 pm »
Got some R&G bar ends in my Renthals, like these ones.
Are they 13mm?
75
« on: 28 April 2017, 10:14:28 pm »
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