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Messages - Lumpy
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51
« on: 09 February 2014, 08:20:43 pm »
Dat wiring :O, more pics of said bike? still an achievement for any bike
the wiring was a temporary loom 5 years ago and it was reliable so it has stayed. I have bought new bulb plugs to do it properly now as one of the terminals has started to burn. Looks grim but it is effective and reliable.
52
« on: 09 February 2014, 06:58:24 pm »
53
« on: 07 February 2014, 08:55:10 pm »
10 seconds seems a long time.
54
« on: 07 February 2014, 08:50:49 pm »
a couple with Fazers get up to Micks on the Hill every now and then and one or 2 fazers meet up there every saturday morning. 10 tomorrow morning if not lashing down
55
« on: 04 February 2014, 11:15:09 am »
56
« on: 04 February 2014, 09:29:28 am »
Was never mad gone on the bar ends lumpy tbh, find them kinda small but that's just personal taste
the view from them is awesome but it does take some getting used to.
57
« on: 04 February 2014, 09:28:58 am »
the engine after the original exploded
Errr... how?!
it just went BANG in a big way with no prior warning, No. 1 pot threw a rod and made rather a mess. there is piccies on here somewhere just can't find the thread at the moment.
58
« on: 03 February 2014, 11:09:55 pm »
Check the multiplugs in the box under the tank, from the switches and the ignition switch ones. Mine had one corroded terminal feeding the ignition switch and was randomly cutting out
59
« on: 03 February 2014, 11:07:48 pm »
I had similar issues, quickly discovered a loose battery terminal.
Start with the simplest things first.
Good luck
Im stupid -- but do you need the battery once its running
Yes the battery supplies the coils that produce the spark! The generator only supplies the regulator that charges the battery.
Try it?
and the battery is connected to the electrics. If you think about it you will realise you are wrong
60
« on: 03 February 2014, 11:02:49 pm »
I don't know the answer but I also don't know why anyone would think of reducing the rear contact patch!
hmmm, you are assuming the contact patch is reduced of course, there ins't a great deal of difference between the contact patch of a 150 compared to a 160 and different manufacturers may have a different profile and actually have more contact patch. Narrower tyres benefits are faster turn in and better wet weather grip,
Lovely contradiction there!
lots of kafas out there. Do what you want. Too many darrsi types out there trying to put imagination off and stuff.
61
« on: 03 February 2014, 11:00:17 pm »
Presumably they offer a better rear view than the standard ones which are hopelessly bad? Have been looking to change mine but haven't got round to looking for alternatives. I seem to recall someone saying the Fazer thou mirrors were better..............
take 4hem off and fit bar end mirrors
62
« on: 03 February 2014, 10:59:21 pm »
Never mind the bike, my facial muscles are almost spent with too much grinning when i ride it.
a bit sluggish but fun to ride. Good for big bike baiting, especially in the rain
63
« on: 03 February 2014, 12:19:38 pm »
I've replaced the wheels and bearings, and will recoat the originals, the discs a few times, the rear caliper for a Fazer thou one, I have some forks in rebuild as the originals are loose to say the least, changed the bars, the seat, neither were overly necessary but stock bars are shit, the engine after the original exploded, headlamp and tail light bulbs. Fuel pump, starter solenoid, usual tyres and pads obviously and oil and filters.
Bloody marvellous really, apart from the engine explosion
64
« on: 03 February 2014, 11:51:53 am »
No matter how many times i clean mine........it keeps getting dirty???
I get around this by not cleaning it
65
« on: 03 February 2014, 08:15:21 am »
I don't know the answer but I also don't know why anyone would think of reducing the rear contact patch!
hmmm, you are assuming the contact patch is reduced of course, there ins't a great deal of difference between the contact patch of a 150 compared to a 160 and different manufacturers may have a different profile and actually have more contact patch. Narrower tyres benefits are faster turn in and better wet weather grip, a fzs600 is never going to light the rear end up so there will be enough grip there anyways. Try is Christo, even if it looks odd.
66
« on: 03 February 2014, 08:10:28 am »
The unreliability of modern motorcycles is appalling, in recent weeks my 98 (modernish) has had a plug cap fail, throttle cables go stiff, fuel pump pack up, terminal corrode under the tank for the ignition switch, wire break off the fuel tank sender, and indicator switch stop. All this seem to have happened when the 95 000 miles clicked over  , bloody unreliable heap.
67
« on: 10 December 2013, 11:36:40 am »
Hi Everyone
I have a 98 fazer and want to make both headlights to H4s.
How do I change the H1 fitting to H4?
I have already taken the shroud off the h1 side but want to inpove the lights.
Thanks
Kelvin
change to the 5RT fairing it's the only simplish way. The fittings for 'h4' are completely different. You may be able to sort some projector units to fit. The H4 bulbs are similar wattage and don't really shed much more, if any, light. Fit some driving lamps and maybe spots for high beams.
68
« on: 09 December 2013, 01:51:57 pm »
get a speedmaster.
69
« on: 09 December 2013, 01:51:07 pm »
Sorry --- dont like it --each to their own and all that, but (i think) you have just spent all that money and gone backwards
yup, opinions are like arseholes insamuch everyone has one. I love it. Much better.
70
« on: 22 November 2013, 01:49:29 pm »
steel is an alloy.
71
« on: 15 November 2013, 01:14:32 pm »
managed to get her down okay by lifting the arm of the stand with my foot and holding the bike up by the rear end, but yes, the wood under the stand is a cool idea for getting it up, so to speak. Cheers.
72
« on: 15 November 2013, 12:36:12 pm »
Bought a nice Oxford paddock stand for the rear, no centre stand on mine, and it has the rubber cups. Great for some bikes but not the FZS600 due to the caliper. Got some hooks coming now. So........ bobbins, easy to drill and tap swing arm for them, but what do the rest of you do that use a paddock stand. I may well drill and tap the axle to receive them. My bike leans over a fair way so it'll be entertaining any ways so what system do you lot use?
73
« on: 14 November 2013, 04:36:07 pm »
It seemed like a dodgy lead as it kept coming back to life, it also felt electronic related for the same reason. All fired up around lunchtime, ran for a while on full load so all hunky dory, then it died again and that's the way it stayed, so sparky at work involved with clever bits of equipment and all relays and stuff fine. Delving further under the tank to the twin connector from the ignition switch had a little spark when the ignition switch was turned on, delving deeper and the red feed wire on the switch side of the plug came apart, very green and terminal welded into place on the connector. so new terminals crimped on and new receptacle and all seems fine now. Simple.
74
« on: 14 November 2013, 10:41:15 am »
I hate these sorts of issues as I cannot find a cause. Every now and then, and big time last night, no electrics but no blown fuses. The after a while the electrics come back on. I have a resettable circuit breaker on the 30A fuse but this isn't tripping as the trip meter doesn't zero. NO LIGHTS, NO DASH, NO START. It sounds sort of electronics based as it resets and comes back on by itself, although last night it didn't for a while. Pullet the multi relay from under the ls panel but even with this out the dash lights were on so not that. Wondered if the light switch was shorting as it seemed to cut out when the lights were switched on for a while, but wouldn't that pop a fuse?
Horrible these intermittent ones. I cannot replicate it now so fingers crossed. She has 97k on her odometer now so she is entitled to get a bit grumpy at times.
75
« on: 07 October 2013, 10:27:58 pm »
Junk the originals and fit bar end mirrors. The scope of vision is amazing.
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