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Messages - JoeRock
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51
« on: 04 November 2015, 12:03:01 pm »
I have to admit total confusion as to why anyone would go for the two line kit instead of the 3. The 3 line seems easier and more effective. Is there ANY reason to go 2 line ?
Just askin, not arguin.
It's cheaper, tends to be easier to bleed (air can get stuck in the crossover pipe) and for racing purposes 3 line kits are actually banned (although not sure why that actually is!)
52
« on: 03 November 2015, 04:28:20 pm »
I would listen to the trimmer of hedges
He has lots of experience of crashing. Riding that class of motorcycle 
For what its worth id like to try a gsxr 750 too but i know it wouldnt be comfy for me as my fz1 wasnt. The fz1 was pretty heavy and i think the lightweight 750 would be a good compromise for the roads and corners.
You do know they're completely different riding positions Nogster - the 750 has clipons!
Around town at low speeds, I prefer flat bars. For every other riding, I prefer clipons - so as little of my riding is around town a sports bike made more sense!
Yeh joe appreciate that mate.......id love to try a bike with clip ons and see what fun i can have.........wrist pain would be less of a concern to me than legs being too cramped....leg cramp is just bloody awful......the lying down position although limiting vision ahead over cars etc i also think i would quite like.
Interested in following anutz here to see what his whole experience is.......then ill be getting a bigger shed so i have room for another bike 
Rearsets - just adjust them down and back! Time for the shed extension and the "what sports bike should I get" thread? 
53
« on: 03 November 2015, 09:45:07 am »
I would listen to the trimmer of hedges
He has lots of experience of crashing. Riding that class of motorcycle
For what its worth id like to try a gsxr 750 too but i know it wouldnt be comfy for me as my fz1 wasnt. The fz1 was pretty heavy and i think the lightweight 750 would be a good compromise for the roads and corners.
You do know they're completely different riding positions Nogster - the 750 has clipons! Around town at low speeds, I prefer flat bars. For every other riding, I prefer clipons - so as little of my riding is around town a sports bike made more sense!
54
« on: 29 October 2015, 03:12:20 pm »
Anyone on here looking for a red foxeye? My old man is looking to sell his (was mine before hand) - about 30k miles on the clock, good running condition, was serviced during my ownership and during my dads. He's been using it to commute on so condition isn't fantastic but it really isn't too bad for a 13 year old bike to be honest and could be cleaned up quite nicely!
One current running issue - for no apparent reason every now and again when riding the clock needles drop to zero and then back up, doesn't affect the bike at all other than on the clocks. Our current suspicion is a dying battery so he's got a replacement on the way.
Can get photos up if there's any interest?
He's looking for £1600 ONO, and the bike is located in Bexley, Kent.
55
« on: 26 October 2015, 11:16:48 am »
thanks guys....all things to be aware of, i think i am set on getting one just so i can go there, do it and get the t-shirt...
one question - whats the GXSR600 like compared to the FZS 600, much difference, you see i could also look at that, just after more oomph and a different experience i.e. sports bike
Much the same as the 750, but as expected its not got the same grunt. Would probably get the 750 really, can't see a good reason to buy the 600 in the GSXR range myself unless you're restricted in a racing class!
56
« on: 05 October 2015, 03:10:52 pm »
Great post Paul, but I'm a bit confused by your issue with the cornering approach that you said you "had" to adopt - "What I had to do was brake before, stabalise, and apply steady power from the turn in all the way through the corner and out again so that the bike didn't change pitch"
That sounds like the approach I was taught as the correct one - brake to turn-in, then controlled acceleration through the corner. Keeps the bike stable and helps "feel" for traction as powering out.
When you come off the brakes on the fazer (or most modern bikes), the back goes down and the front lifts and dampening stops and further movement so the bike is ready for the next input. Two up on the tracer, coming off the brakes starts a see-saw motion with the bike rocking backwards and forwards, which is uncomfortable in a straight line (but not a problem), but if you are cranked over trying to reach the apex, then the changing geometry and with its longer suspension travel makes your line tighten as the nose drops and open out as the nose rises again. The effect is that instead of cornering in a smooth curve, it is like a set of connected straight lines. You can get on the power which will make the back end squat a bit but it doesn't stop the see-saw.
That makes it sound like its lacking rebound damping at both ends - and understeering into corners generally means you've not got sufficient preload - did you check the suspension? Might well be that someone has been playing around with it and set it up to handle like a bag of shit!
57
« on: 21 September 2015, 10:24:42 am »
Have you considered ear plugs?
58
« on: 18 September 2015, 03:12:16 pm »
That made my eyes bleed.
I'd probably send him a photo of a cock and note on it that's looking in a mirror
59
« on: 14 September 2015, 10:08:01 am »
I think you can get too fussy with things sometimes, just ride it and enjoy. One of the issue for me is, I wasn't fully aware of said issue untill I rode what I thought was an inferior bike (Bandit, because its based on older tech).
I can live with the snatch, but I also have a front damping issue which aggrivates me in as soon as I notice it. I had planned for a ktech upgrade (already got the springs) but after seeing the market values, I have kind gone off the idea.
I wouldn't worry about the market value of it - work out what more you'd get from the additional cost of a newer bike, and then work out what you'll lose in depreciation!
60
« on: 11 September 2015, 02:39:04 pm »
Any superglue will do mate - just don't go mental covering the bar in the stuff or you'll never get it off again with ease if you need do.
61
« on: 10 September 2015, 02:14:42 pm »
If you mean speed - you've got a 9R, open the throttle up more and you'll get there pretty quickly 
62
« on: 03 September 2015, 05:49:00 pm »
Why not just get a waterproof case for your phone? Stick that on the bars, job done!
63
« on: 03 September 2015, 05:36:41 pm »
Few I've had:
Had an accident on my 600 hornet, so was given a bandit 650 as a hire bike. First bike with a centre stand, and was also a heavy bastard compared to the hornet. Standing in a petrol station (back against the pumps), put it onto the centre stand. Except what actually happened was my foot slipped out on diesel. Rather than drop the hire bike, I decided to pull it towards me, which basically resulted with me sitting against the pumps with the bike pinning my legs down. I can't move, and the only chap around was a tiny little old Chinese guy, who managed to lift the bike just enough that I could wriggle out and lift it up myself!
Second one, 125 battery was flat one winter, so I decided to bump start it. Foot slips on ice as i'm running along and my hand slipped off the clutch so it fired, and promptly pulled me straight into the back of my neighbours car, putting a nice big tyre shaped dent in the rear.
Third one, just fitted hard panniers to the hornet that stuck out a fair old way. Went to park in my local ASDA car park (which has bollards around the bike bays). Girlfriend on the back says "it won't fit" - I completely forgot about the panniers and so went straight into the bollard. Pannier was fine, but the bike got dropped onto the bollard on the other side, putting a big fat dent in the tank and jamming the bloody thing in between the two!
64
« on: 01 September 2015, 11:36:55 am »
On my dad's 2003 foxeye.
Basically as he's riding long, the clocks will flick off and back on again relatively frequently (say once a minute or so). Both needles drop, any indicator lights on flash off, and then it'll come back online again. Bike continues to run just fine during it, its literally just the clocks playing around it seems.
Any ideas where to start?
65
« on: 19 August 2015, 05:17:45 pm »
Brakes are good, suspension is not. Sort the suspension out (new springs and oil up front, new shock up back), new can and filter and you're probably good to go!
66
« on: 17 August 2015, 04:22:02 pm »
Stay well away from the cheap seal kits - you'll end up pulling them out and binning them (although I've heard the wemoto kits are okay).
Best bet however is to get the calipers stripped down and take a look - a lot of the time corrosion behind the dust seals pushes them out which is what makes the pistons stick, but once you clean the calipers up the dust seals are actually completely fine to be reused!
Fluid seals are even more unlikely to need changing
67
« on: 13 August 2015, 02:02:25 pm »
Thinking about it - this sounds exactly the same as what mine was doing when the spark plug caps were breaking up (although mine was happenening at around 80 odd. Might be worth replacing them (there's a red NGK set people use that work perfectly) - not very expensive from what I remember?
68
« on: 12 August 2015, 03:49:05 pm »
Okay so, switch in dipped position is high beam only, switch in high beam position is dipped and high beam.
Thanks
Alex
It's a relatively simple solution - turn the switchgear upside down Afraid I can't be of any actual help - electrickery is all black magic as far as I'm concerned!
69
« on: 07 August 2015, 04:49:12 pm »
Have you taken the plates back out?
70
« on: 05 August 2015, 03:50:46 pm »
Stick them in the freezer overnight - will kill the bacteria in them and will stop them smelling for a bit
71
« on: 30 July 2015, 01:20:14 pm »
Are you sure it's 100 nms seems a lot, you do mean the bolts that hold the sprocket to the hub?
That's exactly what it says in the Haynes Manual:
Rear sprocket nuts: 100 Nm
Rear wheel axle nut: 120 Nm
I'm going to use Threadlock as well anyway.
Personally I wouldn't bother - get them torqued up properly and you shouldn't need it (pretty sure they're meant to be dry threads on those nuts according to the Yam manual?)
72
« on: 30 July 2015, 11:23:56 am »
Got halfway through changing my sprockets and chain, but it turned out to be a hell of a lot more difficult than I'd expected!
Firstly it's a bugger of a job loosening the front sprocket nut with the tool Yamaha give you in the underseat kit, as there's barely enough clearance to get it in place, so you need to do a bit at the top between the frame and the gear linkage, then a bit underneath, then back to the top... (next time I'm going to buy a 32mm socket and a breaker bar!)
Then breaking the chain was a PITA as, for some reason the tool wouldn't push the pin right through, so eventually some wiggling with a flat-head screwdriver got it apart.
After that, getting the rear wheel off was also a bugger of a job as the axle wouldn't slide out easily (eventually I used the rubber mallet I normally use for tent pegs to bang it out!)
Then I had to look up a video on how to rejoin a chain because the instructions which came with the chain tool were incomprehensible and it took a long time before I was sure the joining link rivets were peened over enough so I kept checking with a set of calipers until the link was the same width as the other ones in the chain.
Finally I had to use the mallet again on the socket wrench to get the bolts on the rear sprocket to come loose, but then (as detailed elsewhere) I didn't know how to tighten the new ones sufficiently, and it was getting dark so I decided to call it a day at that point and finish off tomorrow!
It's a lot more fun taking a chain apart wth an angle grinder you know
73
« on: 29 July 2015, 01:30:49 pm »
There will be a code stamped on the shock spring somewhere - if you get that code you can phone Nitron and check what spring rate, and what rider weight it's for
74
« on: 27 July 2015, 09:20:12 am »
Slag off the UK etc all you want but at least we do have some form of border control so we can at least stop some these scum bags coming in.
Just have a look at them trying to board lorries , How many are families , all I seem to see are young men. Were are there woman and children all fecking left behind to fend for themselves.
I note VNA is not asking or insisting they take them up to Scotland, Ideal really put them on the islands Tyree would be ideal, not even a fecking tree can survive on there.
One of the first things they should do is if we have to take them, medical inspection, free family planning included, snip & clip.
Am I going a bit far here???
Well you do sound as though you're proposing some kind of Nazi-style eugenics programme.
75
« on: 26 July 2015, 11:08:20 pm »
Cheers chaps - got one sorted now! ebay.de, about £210 posted. You're right on the exchange rat noggy!
Nick's lofo ride?
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