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Messages - bozboz
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« on: 05 November 2012, 12:17:44 am »
A clunking chain can be caused by lack of chain oil/lubricant. Try running some oil along it to get inside the X/O ring links, may get rid of the noise and slow down the wear rate. I wouldn't change the chain untill you can't get the rear wheel any further back on the swing arm adjusters. Cheers, BozBoz 
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« on: 04 November 2012, 05:55:22 pm »
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« on: 04 November 2012, 05:48:32 pm »
anyone tried a Li.On ? Someone was telling me how good they are. My battery is original on 2004 bike and i thought it was struggling a year or so ago but seems to have recovered.
D
I had one of those green Lithium ion batteries on an Xt600e (£130 on ebay?). Used on a work bike for 6months. I think that all day everyday riding was too much for it and the internal chip was fried. Managed to get a replacement under warranty and its sat on my shelf ever since. I just dont trust them I think they are more suited to race bikes/weekend warriors only. Cheers, BozBoz
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« on: 04 November 2012, 05:20:44 pm »
Ive only ever used corrugated plastic to deflect the cold wind from my feet. Its cheap and works a treat! Mounted either on the crash bars or using mechano 90deg brackets mounted to engine bolts. Simples!  Cheers, BozBoz
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« on: 03 November 2012, 10:56:22 am »
I had a similar problem with an old honda/oxford grips. Gave up with them-everytime they turned off I'd have to remove my hand from the warmth of the handlebar muff into the cold! I'm currenlty using R&G heated grips (as the oxford ones are now ridicuously expensive -£60+?!!) wired via the brown (ignition on live) no problems through revs and it remembers the heat setting when the ignition is turned on/off! Highly recommended!
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« on: 27 October 2012, 03:53:52 pm »
I use Oxford muffs and will be putting them back on for Saturday's ride. Generally no complaints. The only issue I find is that they sometimes catch the light switch and turn off the lights. I've tried adjusting them but without much success. I tend not to ride at night so it's not a major issue but I wouldn't fancy being plunged into darkness down an unlit country road! They don't catch on the fairing.
Before I buy any do they actually work and keep your hands warm??
Muffs do work but they only really deflect the cold of the wind they dont really warm your hands up like heated grips. I'm more of a heated grips man personally, they're nice and warm and should be a bit easier on the wrists if the worst should happen.......
I'll be using them in conjunction with some heated grips. Either is good for normal riding but from personal experience out all day and long journeys up north you really need both to stop the outside of your hands suffering. Cheers, BozBoz
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« on: 25 October 2012, 04:57:17 pm »
Handlebar muffs: whos got them? Which ones work well with the fazer(and its fairing)? Which ones are recommended? I'm looking at Tucano Urbano ones at the moment as I've used them in the past and they are great but I think they will be too big for a semi faired bike. Any advice/recommendations will be appreciated! Cheers, BozBoz
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« on: 25 October 2012, 11:09:06 am »
Perfect! Thanks Lawrence, thats much clearer! Cheers, BozBoz
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« on: 24 October 2012, 06:57:21 pm »
Does anyone have an image/link of the givi monokey rack for the fazer that I can see? Or anyone near sevenoaks that I can go have a look at one? Cheers, BozBoz
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« on: 24 October 2012, 06:48:10 pm »
Unlucky mate, still shit happens least your ankle wasn't crushed! I once forgot my sidestand on the strand, got off the bike to hear crash and was left red faced(under my scarf) to a few onlookers  -thankfully it was just a cb500 rat bike!A little off topic but what make/model is that helmet cam? ...I'm seriously tempted by one before I go back to despatching.Cheers, BozBoz
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« on: 24 October 2012, 01:54:01 pm »
I need to go back to despatching due to lack of money and mounting bills!  Just wondering if theres any fazer couriers here that might know a cheap company to insure the fazer with. My existing company as well as most offer quotes I've had are over a grand! Bit of a shock considering the most I've had to pay was 800 when I was I new courier over 3 years ago, cheapest Ive had was 300 on a ntv650 so I doubt its beacause of engine size!? Any suggestions? Cheers, BozBoz
214
« on: 18 October 2012, 09:34:31 pm »
Thanks for the replys! So my next question is could I use a modded (green wire) headlight loom from a boxeye on a foxeye headlight woth success?Cheers, BozBoz
215
« on: 16 October 2012, 12:26:40 am »
Just wondering, what bulbs are used by the later 02-03? Foxeye fazer?Cheers, BozBoz
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« on: 21 August 2012, 10:20:03 pm »
I had a similar problem with on an old cb500 work bike. Spent days taking the carbs apart cleaning, refiting, mucking about with the float levels, etc, etc! Always one downpipe was running cooler with low speed stuttering/hesitating but accerated fine and the heat came through with the acceration. My problem in that case turned out to be solved with new HT leads! If that fails my friend Dave at TSR may be able to solve your problem, he can clean the carbs ultrasonically and vapour blast them -very thorough come back looking new!!! This may clean an internal part that the carb cleaner just cant shift? Heres a link, hope it helps: http://www.tsrvapourblasting.co.uk/carb_cleaning.html Cheers BozBoz
217
« on: 21 August 2012, 10:05:19 pm »
As mentioned above but also consider...Check your insurance allows you to do trackdays if not you can get 1day track day insurance. Make sure your leathers conform to the trackdays regulations; usually its one piece only/two piece that zip together leathers only. Loud zorsts are usually ok but the organisers usually have a limit written down somewhere (although I've never seen any flouresent types walking round testing them  ) so take your baffle just incase. Finally and this is important for you and your bike! >>>Dont take your first corner(s) like a flat out racer<<< (aka knee down) you will have cold tyres and the bike will almost certainly slide from beneath you if you do!  I know it sounds silly but theres usually one that forgets and does it! Apart from that have an awesome day -will be an experience! Cheers BozBoz
218
« on: 21 August 2012, 09:48:19 pm »
They have weird fuel gauges that stay above full for ages before deciding to eventually start dropping after many miles, just a quirk of the bike that you get used to.
Not sure about the 5000rpm thing, but it's a bit coincidental with a correct TPS angle reading?
@darrsi: Thanks for the reply darrsi, Thats what I thought at first about the gauge but it stays maxed out even when theres no fuel...thats when I took the float out which is moving freely?! I also thought the 5k was alittle too coincidental with the TPS but that is set correctly ...I'm just back up from the garage for today thought I'd test the revs by slowly increasesing the throttle -turns out the needle is jumping up and down of where it wants to be heading aka 4k will bounce down to 3.5k then up to 4.5k -thats with smooth, slow throttle....??? @red98: Thanks to you also. I plan to do so tommorow -are they the connctors in the plastic box under the tank or are there connectors under the fairing cowl that I cant see? Again, thanks for any more help/advice with this. Cheers BozBoz
219
« on: 21 August 2012, 08:49:24 pm »
Just tried searching the forum for a solution but no luck, so here goes.... Been sorting this bike out today and have a couple of problems. Namely the rev counter and the other is the fuel gauge. So firstly it idles correctly, no TPS error that I can see. However the needle sometimes when being reved gets stuck at 5K rpm! Sometimes it happens on the way up sometimes on the way down. I thought it might be the TPS setting so checked that and adjusted it (but it was reading correctly anyway!). I think it maybe a loose connector but why then does it rev past 5k and revs fine before 5k? I've also checked and syncronized the carbs today so they are working ok...hasn't stopped the sticking needle! Additionally the problem of the fuel gauge isn't working (-related?) All other dash lights/fuel lights/speedo working fine. I have taken the float out of the tank and that is freely moving and the connectors are fine that end -it was 'half' working when I bought (aka reading in the area but not accurate) it but it was stood for some time before I filled it up. Now it just reads beyond full all the time, regardless of actul level (began doin this before I took the float out). Any help/suggestions appreciated. Cheers BozBoz
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« on: 20 August 2012, 11:38:45 pm »
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« on: 20 August 2012, 11:34:08 pm »
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« on: 15 August 2012, 10:29:14 am »
How did you get caught? Camera van?
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« on: 14 August 2012, 01:21:09 am »
Hello everyone I'm Ian from Kent (nickname of bozboz...its just stuck!), thought I'd join the forum as I have just bought a 1999 Fazer 600. Its black, a little tatty, with a Stainless exhaust and bad paint but has its test certificate with a few new bits and I thought was a bargin for £850! I've not long left the world of despatch riding and always liked the fazers after riding a mates in town -its good to finally have one of my own! Anyway look forward to cleaning her up over the coming weeks and shouting out for help on this forum when I get stuck! Cheers! Bozboz
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