I've used JB Weld to good effect before so might be an option but given that nuts are moving I'm confident i can get the headers of.  It was just a case of whether I tried the studs too.

So an update.

Got told that a new motorcycle place had opened near me so i gave them a ring. They'd only been open a few days as a new business but had loads of experience between them.

Explained the issue and they knew the FZS and the caliper design fault.
Quoted £60 to supply and fit the service kit including pistons. 
Dropped her off and 24hrs later get a call to say it's done.
They found a fair bit of corrosion so gave it a real good clean up and replaced seals etc & one piston.

They said they felt a bit bad charging £75 owing to the extra time cleaning up the caliper but they did notice my centre stand was stiff so took it off and regreased it and also topped up my tyre pressures.  They'd obviously given the bike a good check over.

Brake feels spots on. They're getting an MOT bay next week so she'll be going back for that.

Cadwell Motorcycles Ltd
Louth
Lincolnshire

The time has come where my rear brake is now longer functioning as it should.  To my knowledge it's never needed any remedial work so it's time to have it serviced.
Lacking the skills to do it myself I'm entrusting my local garage with it.  The said it would be cheaper to get a kit myself.


Question is....do I need the full kit with bleed nipple etc... or just a kit with the seals?  I'm going to have the pistons changed too.
Been advised to avoid Ebay ones as they aren't the best but I'll be guided by yourselves on that front?


And advice on kits would be most welcome.  And pads whilst I'm there.....

Just had an MOT and got advisory for the rear caliper sticking.  To my knowledge it's never been serviced.

Looking for advice on this. Not competent to do it myself and don't want to go down the wrong path.

There are places online advertising a refurb service of between 50-75 quid.  Not sure how detailed they go.
Should I change the pistons even if they look ok?
Are the kits available online any good?
Anybody on here do them as a project?
Should I change the pads at the same time?

Etc...

The old battery had charge in it but then it'd been left on charge in between rides.


So I've fitted the new battery.  Did some old tests on the old and new and i get mixed results dependant on how warm the engine is and also bizarrely if it's in gear or not.




Anyway with the new battery:-


Ignition Off = 13.21


Ignition On = 12.94
Ig + Headlight = 12.32
Ig + HL + Spotlight = 12.28
Ig + HL + SL + Heated Grip = 12.22


Idle = 13.01
HL = 12.36
HL + SL = 12.33
HL + SL + HG = 12.28


Rev = 14.8
HL = 13.32
HL + SL = 13.16
HL + SL + HG = 12.9


The results seemed to bounce around a little.  For example at one point when the engine was warm is seemed to be idle at around 14.3V


I guess the real test will be in the coming weeks.  I'll use the headlights constantly.  If after a week of riding I suffer a flat battery I'll know there's a charging issue.  If not and I have a few weeks of nothingness I'll happily say it was the battery.

That's top banana.
Really comprehensive.

I agree with the daylight running lights. So much better visibility with them.
I might wire the tail light to an ignition live so that's permanently on without using the headlights.

Battery ordered.

If anyone can do some voltage tests as per my original post I'd be obliged.

I have thought about just biting the bullet and getting a new battery but wanted to make sure I wasn't barking up the wrong tree with either a bad earth or voltage leak that was causing the issue.

It's odd that without the lights all through the summer it's been fine. The one journey with them on and it drains completely.

I'm no expert on how the life of a battery works and can fully see that 20 years is a good innings.

I just wanted to rule out other issues by making sure my voltage readings matched others.

Any recommendations on batteries?

Update....


Those that diagnosed the tight chain....top of the class.


Dropped her in for a service and told them about the noise.  When they rang they said the chain had tight links and was a little too tight.  Bit annoying as the chain has only done about a thousand miles but I may have been guilty of not lubricating it sufficiently.


The next issue is that from the service they report the back brake is slightly binding.  The dreaded rear caliper issue has struck.  They say it's only the rubber seals that have gone and the pistons look to be fine.  As previously mentioned they are only 45+VAT labour and he reckons it's an hour to and hour and half tops.  For me that's a no brainer compared to me trying to do it myself. 


Any advice on seal kits?  Ebay ones OK or do I need to go branded?

After a winter being laid up and a recent MOT I've started using the old girl again. 


I've noticed I have a speed related whine.  When I slow at a junction the noise slows accordingly. 


Seems to be from the front.


Some things to check would be ideal.


Could it be the front brake binding?
Speedo cable dry?
Front Sprocket?

Well it turned out to be a simple job. Sprayed some degreaser in the pivot points and with a few up and downs of the stand it's as free as a bird.

Took the opportunity to wire brush it and paint it without taking it off. Actually in reasonable condition.

Once dry a liberal covering in copper grease will be applied.

Thanks for the help.

Just had the old girl MOT'd.


Got an advisory for the centre stand being stiff and to be fair it is.  Don't use it so never noticed.  Had a good look underneath and it's a bit scabby.


Suspect it's a bit of corrosion between stand and frame with the bolts being also looking a touch tired.


The garage told me it needs sorting ASAP as the stand could come down whilst riding.  This clearly makes me nervous but using my limited brain I'm not convinced it would just flap down, more the other case that it's more likely to stay up?  Surely that's what the spring is for.  I guess if the spring came off then yes it could come down with gravity.


Any advice appreciated.