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Messages - ArchDruid
51
« on: 10 May 2018, 06:56:52 pm »
Looking for some guidance on removing the Compression Damping adjuster assembly from the bottom of the forks. I’m planning on replacing fork seals, and getting the outer fork tubes painted while I’m at it (they’re looking rather shabby).
The Haynes manual gives me all the info on fork disassembly, (a procedure I’ve done before on other forks), but no insight into removing the adjuster – only has details on the actual adjustment itself. I expect that its not necessary to remove it for changing seals, etc. but I would prefer to take it out for the tube painting, rather than taping it up.
Is it just a question of undoing the main body (looks like a 19mm spanner) ? Whats behind it ?
Any info would help ! Thanks !
52
« on: 19 April 2018, 07:15:12 pm »
I have LHS as original, and RHS repaired but OK.
53
« on: 17 April 2018, 07:15:49 pm »
I think I might have one. Just have to find it. Not sure on condition though ....
54
« on: 25 March 2018, 07:43:10 pm »
I have an ignition switch which might be of use. Sent you PM.
55
« on: 25 March 2018, 03:45:50 pm »
only got the stuff listed.
56
« on: 24 March 2018, 04:37:36 pm »
Stuff for Sale: (excluding Postage)
Fairing £60
Screen £20
Headlights - sold
Front subframe £40
Fairing inners £25 (pair) LHS OK, RHS damage repaired.
Seat £60 No Rips or holes, incl all rubbers
Grab Rails (pair) £40
Rear Cowling £50
Tail lights, £20 Incl rubber shroud,
Exhaust £70 (SP Engineering; slip-on only, no link pipe)
seat lock & cable assembly. £10 (incl key)
Photos available on request
57
« on: 24 March 2018, 04:13:15 pm »
Probably not one for the purists - A monster amalgamation of some of my previous Yamaha toys - although it was frustrating on many an occasion. It took nearly 18 months to go from my photoshop idea to reality, but thats because I have a day job & a family, so spare time comes at a premium.
Fazer 1000 Gen 1 Engine & Frame, now backdated a bit, with Tail End frame mods to fit seat & rear cowl from a YZF 750 (circa 1995), and Front subframe mods to fit the Fairing & Headlights from an FZ 750 (circa 1985), but keeping the original clocks.
Retro - No ABS, no traction control, no chip-controlled throttle, no electronic fuel injection, no ride control modes, …
Pure Sports - Twist it, feel it, ride it ….. simple. And I love it.
By the way, I have the original parts available if anyone is looking to repair their Fazer Gen 1 ….
Front: Fairing, Screen, Headlights, Front subframe, Fairing inners.
Rear: Seat, Rear Cowling, Tail lights, Exhaust (slip-on only), seat lock & cable assembly.
58
« on: 23 March 2018, 10:19:14 pm »
Bad Luck on that one, but like you say, at least it was a straight push back & not a fall over.
Just for info.... if you do go the insurance route, be aware that on your next insurance renewal you will be penalised by the insurance companies for being involved in an accident & making a claim - ie they will charge you higher premiums - and that is regardless of whether you were at fault or not.
Sad to say, but I've been through all that personally, and I know a few others with the same complaints. The insurance companies nowadays look for any reason to squeeze a few more ££ out of you.
From your post I take it that you're comfortable with the dismantle/ reassemble works, so if it was me, I would first try to come to some sort of compensation arrangement with the trucking company directly.
59
« on: 11 February 2018, 07:49:31 pm »
I have my opinion on this, but I'd like to hear from others...
Assuming that colour matching was not an issue, would you powdercoat or paint ?
I have my Gen1 completely stripped and intending to have Frame, Swing arm & Wheels done.
Perhaps someone has some compelling arguments for one compared to the other.
I'd be interested to hear pro's & cons for both.
Cheers
60
« on: 11 February 2018, 07:41:48 pm »
Thanks for all the input folks !
It did take a fair bit of persuasion, but the headers are now off & about to be sorted.
As for the old studs (either broken or not)..... I welded nuts onto the ends, and a quick whizz with a decent impact driver did the job.
New stainless studs headed my way !
61
« on: 04 February 2018, 09:30:46 pm »
Had my Gen1 Fazer for 18 months now, so today I began the long overdue exhaust refurbishment. (the skanky photos need no explanation ...) First two attempts with a hand socket wrench only served to shear the studs off. (Disappointing, but kinda expected). Then I decided to try my Impact driver – which I originally thought was a bit too heavy-duty for the 8mm studs. Turns out that each one came off fine, some with nut alone, others with the whole stud. (And I now have a lot more faith in my impact driver, ie, not just for wheel nuts !) So here’s my question: I have now removed all the flanges, and also the Exup cables, mid-lower mounting, and link pipe/ tailpiece. As far as I can see, there should be nothing left holding the headers in place. Is there some fancy trick to this… they seem rock solid…. Or is it just a question of wiggle, wiggle, & more wiggle. Is there something that I’m missing ? Causing me a major header-ache … 
62
« on: 04 February 2018, 09:17:21 pm »
I buy all mine from here:
I've bought loads from these guys too. Simply order on eBay, and they arrive in a few days, postage included, no matter what the order value is. 
http://stores.ebay.co.uk/kaysfasteners/
I could poss sort you out a full exup stainless bolt kit, got a large supply as I've been fettling 2 bikes up.
Kayfasteners are brilliant, all the nuts, bolts and washers that I have replaced on the 600 have come from them, even the stainless steel exhaust manifold studs.
63
« on: 22 July 2017, 10:13:25 am »
Details from the manual (but haven't personally checked my own sensor)
FULL = 4-10 ohms
EMPTY = 90- 100 ohms
Hope it helps !
64
« on: 18 February 2017, 11:18:35 pm »
Hi Folks,
I’m trying to strip the forks to change the leaking seals on my FZS 1000 Gen1, but having difficulty loosening the damper cartridge bolt at the bottom of the shock – As expected, its turning the entire damper unit inside, without loosening ….
With my previous bikes I’ve always made my own tool to poke down the fork tube to hold whatever it was that was turning.
Intending to do the same here, but can anyone help me out with the (approximate ?) dimensions of the top part of the Damper Cartridge ?
Found a Yamaha Service Tool (# 90890-01447) on the web – from the pic it looks pretty easy to make up, (or at least something that will work), but it would be helpful if someone could give me an idea on the sizing – save me a bit of trial & error.
Anything else I need to look out for ?
Cheers/
65
« on: 07 August 2016, 10:34:53 pm »
Don't ask me how I know, but the satnav registered 137mph when the speedo was touching 150, so it seems quite a way out. Not sure how typical that is.
This is the link to the English summary of Christian's web page.
http://cvieth.bplaced.net/ganganzeige_summary.html
To place an order just email him: cvieth@vodafone.de
My experience is that most vehicles on the road today have speed readings that are overstating reality by as much as 10%. So your GPS measurement of 137 compared to your speedo's 150 is about right. (perhaps this also has something to do with the 'margin' that the traffic dept allows you before the speed camera takes your pic ... but that's a different topic all together ...) BTW, I have the multiguage fitted in mine (lucky enough to come with the bike) ... Fantastic piece of kit !!! Having read through the installation instructions & the operating instructions, I reckon it should be quite easy to adjust for the correct speedo reading. The difficult bit (actually not 'difficult', just labour intensive) will be to solder the wires in the correct places ... but its all well detailed in the docs.
66
« on: 28 July 2016, 11:00:18 am »
Yes, I had a YZF 750 in late 90's, so very familiar with that one :-). Definitely an option worth looking at ... just gathering as much info/ options as I can at the moment.
67
« on: 25 July 2016, 10:59:46 am »
OK, great info , thanks.... So R1 swingarm will fit but requires cutting/ grinding & welding, ..... then I wont consider that option... looking for something slightly simpler.
Manufacture of spacers, collars, linkages, etc is fine, but prefer to stay away from cutting & welding.
And the FZ1/ FZ8 will fit the pivot area without mods ??
The pivot area is my primary concern at the moment. I can find/ manufacture suitable shock linkages once the arm is in place.
I have found out that FZ1 and FZ8 arms are the same part number 2011 thru 2013.
Earlier FZ1's have a different number but it looks like (?) the difference is only on the rear brake line mounts. Will search for suitable samples to view & confirm.
68
« on: 24 July 2016, 01:16:17 pm »
Appreciate any comments/ info ...
I've read a lot on here about the R6 shock mod and am intending to convert. However, I'm also considering a swingarm mod at the same time.
Does anyone have any experience with exchanging the standard FZS1000 swingarm and putting in one from Fazer1k Gen2 / FZ1 / FZ8.
I'd be interested to hear of any differences in size and fitting, particularly around the pivot point - to understand what I would need to manufacture iro spacers/ collars (assuming its possible)
Also any other implications and/or challenges with shock mounting and linkages.
I haven't taken mine apart yet, so I would be grateful for any info/ measurements on the standard Gen1 unit, if available.
Cheers
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