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Messages - Rich74
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1
« on: 15 June 2020, 06:31:20 pm »
Thanks again for all your help and quick replies.
You have been a great help.
Cheers,
Rich
2
« on: 14 June 2020, 10:56:41 pm »
Well my problem is now solved and many thanks for all the help.
I tightened the emulsion tubes with a small spanner and put a new fuel filter in and she pulls really well through the rev range.
This is my 3rd fazer now, as I have tried other bikes, but the fazer is probably one of the best bikes I have owned and I have had quite a few bikes over the years, Ducati's, other Yamaha's, Kawasaki's etc.
The only small thing I would like to sort out is I have to give it a little throttle to start the bike.The air mixture screws are 2 turns out and carbs are balanced at the right readings. Plugs are new, so I am trying to think if there is anything I could do to improve starting the bike on the button without throttle and it maybe a couple or so attempts to start.
Cheers for your help, it is very much appreciated.
3
« on: 12 June 2020, 09:57:50 pm »
Emulsion tube is what I was supposed to say. I will nip them up tomorrow. I have checked to make sure the carbs are seated properly and the clips are tight.
I will update tomorrow.
Cheers for your help and time.
4
« on: 12 June 2020, 07:37:10 pm »
I have checked everything you have mentioned and all looks good. The items I have replaced are coils, plugs and NGK caps. Carb balancing is correct at 230-250 and plugs have a nice biscuit colour.
The needles were in the correct groove and all washers present.
Only question I have, is when I replaced the main jet o'ring, I did it up finger tight, as not to distort the o'ring. I presume that would be the correct way of tightening of the jet.
5
« on: 11 June 2020, 11:09:37 pm »
Solved the no 3 cylinder problem of not getting hot. I balanced the carbs and that solved the problem. I now have another problem of the engine stuttering at 6-7000 revs. I have ordered a fuel filter, as I don't know when that was last changed and I am thinking that the air mixture screws may need a little tweaking. Aftermarket downpipes and exhaust can have been fitted. I have them at 2 turns out, so will try them at another 1/8 -1/4 of a turn out and see how that goes. I am pretty sure this is a fuel problem on the pilot side.
6
« on: 30 May 2020, 08:09:38 am »
Thanks for your help here, I very much appreciate it. I will take it out and have another look at it. I am sure when I looked at it with my magnifying glass it looked clear and I cleared all the circuits out with a good blow of the airline.
7
« on: 29 May 2020, 08:52:30 am »
The bike wasn't getting hot on cylinder 3 and I checked for a good spark, all ok there. Have taken the carbs apart and cleaned and put in new seals.
I checked float heights and they were all over the place. Someone had previously mucked around with them. I have reset them so before they seat to the float valve closing, they position inline with the mating service evenly, in other words parallel.
Cylinder 3 is now hotter than it was but not as hot as the other cylinders.
Has got me thinking what is causing the problem with no 3 cylinder.
8
« on: 26 May 2020, 01:24:34 am »
I have tried to set the float height using the tube method and there was no way I could get near the 4.5mm above the mating service. I have tried setting the floats using a ruler to 14.00mm with the floats on the resting position and the bike run worse than it was before. I will try setting them to 11.00mm tomorrow to see what happens. So while I am taking the carbs off again for about the tenth time, do any of you guy's know what height measurement has worked for you?
Your help will be much appreciated.
Richard
9
« on: 16 April 2020, 11:40:41 am »
Problem solved. Took clutch cover off and the selector rod had come out of the cage. Popped it back in and all good now.
Saved a whole load of time and effort of what I was thinking last night.
So if anybody has the same problem after taking the covers off, then it is more than likely the selector rod has popped out of the cage.
10
« on: 15 April 2020, 09:27:47 pm »
I will hopefully get the engine running tomorrow.
I will take the clutch cover off, just to see if everything is ok on the clutch side of things and then get her running.
The gears engaged fine before with no problem and don't think it will be anything in the gear box.
11
« on: 15 April 2020, 08:12:26 pm »
I had the engine out for a repaint and took all the engine covers off at the end of last year and have put it all back together this week and put the gear selector on and it won't shift up or down, it just feels solid. Can't think of anything I have done for this to happen.
Your help would be much appreciated.
12
« on: 07 July 2019, 10:08:17 pm »
I am looking at upgrading the rear shock absorber on a mk1 fazer 600 and believe a R6 one will fit, but what year R6 shock absorber am I looking to buy, that will fit?
Cheers,
Richard
13
« on: 12 January 2019, 07:29:28 pm »
Started to put the cylinder on the pistons after buying two piston ring compressors and what a ball ache they were. In the end I put 2 and 3 cylinder with my fingers, but then the problem came with trying 1 and 4 cylinder. I thought I had them in the cylinder and when I went to push the cylinder down the bottom ring on cylinder 1 popped out and bent.
So I have bought a secondhand set of pistons with rings from a low milage bike to try again. This time I will get my neighbour to give me a hand. The piston has a little edge mark on the groove from where the ring came out and bent, so it may well be ok to use but I will take it off and put one of the pistons I am buying in it's place. The only thing, will I have to buy a new clip for the pin when putting the piston back on or can I use the old one?
14
« on: 29 December 2018, 09:50:04 pm »
I have checked and no o'rings. The picture in a pdf manual is wrong of showing o'rings, so waiting for the bottom gasket to arrive.
I have checked the head and cylinder and both are within 0.05 of warpage. Just out of interest what have people on here used as a flat edge with wet and dry to skim the heads or have you taken them to a machine shop to get skimmed?..
The exhaust valves have very slight leaks, so will use my stick to lapp them in. The inlets are fine, but as I have the head off, I will change the seals and give them a clean and lapp them in.
I will update with any problems and tips I come across.
15
« on: 27 December 2018, 07:44:41 pm »
Cheers for your replies. I will get a new bottom gasket, as I bought a new head gasket before doing the job. I will try the finger method on the rings of getting the pistons back in the cylinder, if that doesn't work, I will buy a couple of piston ring compressors.
Just one last question. In the PDF service manual, it is showing 4 o'rings that fit on the bottom of the barrels but on the Yamaha parts online list, they don't show any o'rings.
I will have a look at the weekend and take the cylinder off and have a look.
If I do buy a couple of piston ring compressors and anybody on here would like to borrow them, you will be more than welcome, as it's not the everyday tool you would use.
16
« on: 26 December 2018, 08:57:13 pm »
I have removed the cylinder head and when doing so the cylinder below, which I always call a barrell cylinder, has moved.
If anybody has done a cylinder head job before, have you removed both cylinders and replaced both gaskets?
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