This section allows you to view all posts made by this member. Note that you can only see posts made in areas you currently have access to.
Messages - PaulSmith
26
« on: 14 March 2017, 11:41:23 am »
The clutch is adjusted at both ends. The upper end controls the reach and the lower end (on the clutch cover above your right foot) controls the position of the bite point.
27
« on: 08 March 2017, 05:22:43 pm »
That is over a grand more then I would have expected, but if it really is the one you want...
28
« on: 07 March 2017, 12:58:08 pm »
I don't think freezing the bolts is generally considered a good idea because it can make the bolts more brittle.
29
« on: 28 February 2017, 02:40:29 pm »
...
This is a joke ,some insurance company's seem fine and others don't have a clue.
And therein lies the problem. As Ricky says, many brokers and underwriters just don't understand what you are telling them. I would never detail mods on a price comparison site, because once it goes online, it stays online. Instead I would use the site to get a short list of brokers and ring them to 'confirm' the quote and nail down the details.
30
« on: 27 February 2017, 11:26:26 am »
My wife used to work for an insurance broker, this is her advice.
If you try to claim £750 for the Akrapovic that you didn't tell them about, not only will they not pay it, but they will say your policy was overvalued by the cost of the standard exhaust that wasn't fitted, deduct that from the insured value and pay only the pro rata amount. If the bike was stolen, they may deem that the after market exhaust increased the bikes appeal to thieves, and that you need to share some of the burden, and again, reduce the pay out pro rata. If this sounds complicated, just remember that insurance companies are just bookies. You are asking for odds based on the information you supply, if you don't tell them something that changes the odds, don't expect a bookie to do you any favors.
The rule of thumb is if your mod changes the value, the replacement cost, or the risk (of crash, theft etc) and you don't tell them before the claim, then don't mention them on the claim. If they find out some other way, expect a problem.
The most common mistake on household policies is under insuring. If you pay a premium for £10k cover, and your property is worth £20k, then you have only covered half the risk. Even if the claim is less then £10k, you will only get half the payout!
32
« on: 22 February 2017, 01:08:23 pm »
You could save the showroom look for the show room and get a fully faired winter hack *cough*Dullvile*cough* for a few quid. Or for more fun, get a bike that looks better dirty then clean, though a 200 mile commute on a trials bike is not my first idea of fun.
33
« on: 30 January 2017, 11:25:21 am »
34
« on: 14 December 2016, 10:48:50 am »
These bulbs don't appear to be for the UK market to the kick-up that should be on the left is on the right - but I sorta got around that because the bulbs have the ability to be rotated in the holder (see the image in the OP that shows the little graduated lines, the bulb rotates in the base and has 2 little grub to lock it.) So I emailed the seller yesterday evening just to see if they can do anything and got a reply this morning, they asked me to do a picture with a little explanation of the issue (see below). So touch wood they will be able to send me a UK compatible set.
@Topgun44, check you kit when you get it - you may have to do the above.
Can you put the old Halogen bulbs back in and repeat that photo to get a like for like comparison. I could be wrong, but I am pretty sure that the kick is a property of the reflector, not the bulb. You could also try using a cloth to cover one reflector and then the other to see if it is simply a mis-alignment of the reflectors that is causing that effect.
35
« on: 13 December 2016, 12:20:04 pm »
[Sniff, sniif.] Poh, I smell a pong! Sort of a bovine scatology to it...
Er, did someone shit in yer cornflakes ..?
- EU regs, who give's a shit beyond the fact it means we are forced to have one headlamp on instead of two..?
- I think you'll find I said and I quote "I would hazard a guess that the wiring is the same as it is on the gen 1"
- Regarding H4 HID kits, Google the facts you might learn something. In the meantime I will rely on the fact that I have fitted and used multiple HID kits H4, H7, 9006B and base my advise on verifiable hands on data.
- And Regarding H4 LED replacement bulbs I am more than happy for you to point me at a set that either you or someone else on here has tested with before and after pictures. And in gesture of putting my money were my mouth is, you find me a set of H4 LED bulbs that I can order for next day delivery on amazon and I will buy and test them...!!! I may even buy a H4 kit and do some comparison shots just to prove my points.
Kind regards
b1k3rtw1t
Huh? I quoted from the EU regs that say you can have one headlight or two, why would you repeat the lie that says the EU forces you to have one only? Did you also hazard a guess that a high/low bulb would work well in a high beam reflector? You could google the 'facts', (you have been doing a very good job of it so far), but given that I have already posted pics of HID's on a Fazer, not of the bike (your looks good by the way) but of the light pattern on the wall, I think I can say I am speaking from both the 'facts' and from personal experience. As for LEDs? Which part of the link I posted confused you? I am currently using the H7 version of those bulbs successfully on a Versys 1000 which has a single shitty low beam reflector and a separate, equally shitty high beam reflector. P.S. Do you think I should fit a H4 bulb in the high beam reflector?
36
« on: 28 November 2016, 12:11:46 pm »
[Sniff, sniif.] Poh, I smell a pong! Sort of a bovine scatology to it... ...
I assume you referring to a gen2 - I would hazard a guess that the wiring is the same as it is on the gen 1. You just tap of the working dip beam lead (at the front loom connector end) and wire that to a right-angle spade connector to fit into the 3-pin H4 connector. Its a very easy job that take you no longer than hour to do. The alternator is rated to power both headlights inspite of the bullshit EU bollox and the fuse and wire should easily cope.
...
B1k3rtwit has spent too much time listening to second rate politicians blaming some one else for their failures and his problems that he doesn't even bother to check their lies anymore. It took me less than 5 minutes to find out what the law actually said. The EU regs are all on-line as the always have been and the ones that matter here Directive 2009/67/EC of the European Parliament and of the Council of 13 July 2009 on the installation of lighting and light-signalling devices on two or three-wheel motor vehicles: http://eur-lex.europa.eu/legal-content/EN/TXT/?uri=CELEX:32009L0067 Specifically, section 6.2.1 - 6.2. Dipped-beam headlamps
- 6.2.1. Number: one or two.
B1k3rtwit is wrong about the wiring being the same, but is right that the wiring change would be easy, however, you might be slightly disappointed putting a hi/lo beam bulb into a high beam reflector and expecting a lo beam result. An odd mistake to make for someone who knows beam patters so well... The issue is pretty much all HID kits dont have the correct beam pattern for the H4 hi/lo based head light units.
Fortunatly, all H4-3 HID kits do have the correct beam pattern for H4 hi/lo based head light units. The market sorley needs a LED replacement fore the H4 bulb/fitting.
That would be something like this then? https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B01C8DKIPI/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1
37
« on: 23 November 2016, 04:06:21 pm »
...
Woopie doo! Well that's OK then. 
Look's like everyone here is happy except for you. 
38
« on: 23 November 2016, 12:16:48 pm »
The question was asked and politely answered in the first two posts. I asked a different question which was 'why'. I can understand putting a jet engine on a push bike frame because it is daft and fun and you end up with something unique. It is also good engineering and an enjoyable project even if it doesn't work. I don't understand an R1 engine in a Fazer frame since the best possible outcome is a better Fazer (that is still not as good as an R1). That is the best possible outcome that I can envisage, but I might have missed something, hence my question, 'why'. Graham has answered that question so I am happy.
39
« on: 22 November 2016, 12:19:42 pm »
If the costs were minimal and the results were worth it, people would have been doing it for the last 15 years. People Ivanise because the costs are minimal and the results are worth it, just as some people fit R1 forks because the costs are worth it to them. The Fazer is already very nearly as fast as it can get and it is not the engine that is holding it back. Yes ivanising gives a bit more power, but most people will tell you its real benefit is drivability, something you wouldn't get from an R1 engine in that frame.
40
« on: 21 November 2016, 11:17:24 am »
The costs involved in getting an 18 year old engine into a 15 year old frame (from a different bike) are not trivial, but beg the obvious question, why would you want to? If it worked, you would have a faster Fazer, but it still wouldn't be as fast as an R1 and it would cost a lot more. £2,500 will get you almost anything you want over ten years old, be it a Fazer, an R1 or something else.
41
« on: 16 November 2016, 10:46:18 am »
Intriguing mate... Are they saying you need to buy "outside error free resistors" or that they don't need anything else to work ?
The bulbs I linked to do not have a CANBUS, so can not be used on a bike with CANBUS unless you get a CANBUS eliminator. The Fazer couldn't even spell CANBUS so it really isn't a problem.
42
« on: 15 November 2016, 10:55:10 am »
43
« on: 13 October 2016, 06:10:48 pm »
An additional test you can try: What is the voltage across the output of the rectifier with the bike running and what is the voltage at the battery terminals. Any significant difference would suggest a fault in the cable or connections between the two.
I then connected the three white wires from the stator to the rectifier and measured the red and black coming out of the rectifier and the reading was around 1.8V. The battery showed 12.7V
Based on your suggestion it would seem I have a cable or connector failure between the rectifier and the battery. If it is a direct connection between the two I can run some temporary cables to bypass the existing cables and connectors. Can you confirm if this is the case?
I did have the red and black disconnected to the regulator with the engine running. That was how I got the 1.8V.
I am sure this is as frustrating for you as it is for us, but... Final test... Engine off, with the regulator connected to the battery, can you measure the voltage at the battery, and the voltage on the red and black of the regulator (do not unplug it!). If these two voltages are not the same, then the regulator is not correctly connect to the battery, you can do a continuity test to see which cable broken. It is a direct connection and you can run temporary cables, but this might not fix your problem.
44
« on: 13 October 2016, 12:36:48 pm »
The battery is not being charged. When I put a meter across the battery terminals I do not see any increase in voltage when the engine is revved.
I have a second Fazer and I transferred the rectifier onto that to check it was working. The battery on that Fazer increases to around 13.9V when the engine is revved and increased to 14.2V with the rectifier from the Fazer that is not charging. This has confirmed the rectifier is OK.
I measured the voltages of the white leads from the stator with the engine running. I used the connector under the side cover above the foot peg. They are around 22V at tick over and increase to 60V ish when the bike is revved. I did the same on the Fazer that is working and the results were the same.
I took readings of the three white wires going into the rectifier. They were reading the same voltage as I got at the plug under the side cover.
I then connected the three white wires from the stator to the rectifier and measured the red and black coming out of the rectifier and the reading was around 1.8V.
I have checked the fuses in the fuse box under the seat. I also found a 30amp fuse tucked down the side of the battery. That tested OK.
That is as far as I have got, I don't really know what to try next.
Please! Stop telling us half the storey. don't tell us what you didn't see, tell us what you DID see. When I put a meter across the battery terminals I do not see any increase in voltage when the engine is revved. What voltage DID you see before you revved and what voltage DID you say after you revved? Have you run the test I asked you to: An additional test you can try: What is the voltage across the output of the rectifier with the bike running and what is the voltage at the battery terminals. Any significant difference would suggest a fault in the cable or connections between the two. It is sounding to me more and more like a cable or connector failure between the rectifier and the battery.
45
« on: 12 October 2016, 04:11:43 pm »
I still dont know exactly what you mean 'not charging'. And I don't know what the rectifier test you are talking about is. Can you give more details include what voltages and/or current you measured and where. Please run all the tests I suggested and report the results.
An additional test you can try: What is the voltage across the output of the rectifier with the bike running and what is the voltage at the battery terminals. Any significant difference would suggest a fault in the cable or connections between the two. If this voltage is over 13.5v then there is nothing wrong with the charging, but you might have a fault with the multiguage. If you are getting less then 13v at the battery then you do have a fault in your charging system.
46
« on: 10 October 2016, 02:26:40 pm »
...I had previously changed the ...
The first thing to check is always the bit that you changed. You really do have to give a lot more information on what you tried and what you got if you want help. For example, what do you mean 'the generator checks out ok'. What is a generator, how did you test it and what were the results? If you meant the stator, then a static test should show the same small resistance between each of the wires, a dynamic test should show around 30v AC on each of the lines to the reg/rec with the engine at fast idle. The reg/rec should be showing about 14.5 volts on its output side. The battery itself should be tested. Take it out of the bike and leave it for an hour. Healthy is over 12.5v, weak is 11 to 12v. Dead is less then 10v. If it is not full, charge it over night, disconnect the charger and leave it for an hour before testing again. If it is under 12.5v, replace it.
47
« on: 26 September 2016, 05:31:42 pm »
Mine was always a case of - open choke (only if engine cold), thumb the starter with throttle closed, wait for it to fire and blip the throttle. Knock choke back gradually. Once warm it would start straight away. My previous one was pretty much the same. Weather made no difference, only engine temp. So even in summer I always opened the choke and closed the throttle to start.
Mine was exactly the same. If the engine was warm, the starter button on its own, if cold, choke, starter and a bit of throttle to help it catch.
48
« on: 08 September 2016, 11:15:22 am »
Hard to go wrong these days, but I would recommend Bridgestone T30's. There is a new version out (the T30 Evo) which are supposed to be bloody brilliant so you should be able to find discounts on the older ones.
49
« on: 01 September 2016, 03:00:43 pm »
I hired a Tracer in Spain so I know what you mean, good bike but not a Fazer. 1st impressions of the Versys are excellent. Bearing in mind I am still breaking it in and have only 300 kilometers on it and I am not supposed to exceed 4k revs, the low down pull is as good or better then the Fazer. The clutch is almost silly it is so light. It does make slipping the clutch more difficult but the low end power is so good that I just don't think that will ever be a problem.
Lights are crap, with only a single H7 bulb for low beam and another one for high. Having had twin HIDs on the Fazer for the last few years, there is no way I could go back so LED bulbs are on order and if they aren't good enough, I will go the whole HID projector route.
The throttle is not quite smooth in the transition from fully closed, but the Fazer was exceptionally good in that area. It is not bad, but until ECU remaps come onto the market, I think I am going to have to live with it. The suspension is in a different league, but then it bloody well should be since I am comparing a brand new long travel setup with a twelve year bike (even if it did have an R6 shock).
The best description of the difference I could come up with for my car driving wife was that it is like going from a 12 year old sports saloon to a new Range Rover.
50
« on: 25 August 2016, 05:48:10 pm »
I have signed the papers on a new Kawasaki Versys 1000 which I hope to pick up next Wednesday. This will be my first new bike in 14 years and I am more then a little excited.
The Fazer has been nothing but excellent for the last 7 years and 50,000 miles, but she is showing her age now and the maintenance costs are starting to climb steeply. Given that it was already 5 years old when I bought it and I only bought it as a stop gap, it has exceeded all my expectations and sets a very high benchmark for the Versys to try and beat. The Versys brings ABS and traction control and a more upright and relaxed riding position. Its lights suck and like the Fazer, the suspension will need attention.
Thanks for all the wisdom and help over the years, this has been and remains one of the best forums I have been involved with. I will keep you posted on how I get on. /Paul.
|
Show Posts
