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Messages - lta01
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« on: 19 June 2019, 08:10:37 pm »
Bump, still got this for sale gents. First £150 gets it inc uk mainland postage, pair of Luke's dog bones and the R6 bottom shock bolt. ( read earlier in this thread for why this is needed/recommended )
cheers Loz
PS I'm based NW England, could meet up for handover...save on postage.
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« on: 24 December 2018, 07:06:16 am »
Sorry, I don't think it will fit.
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« on: 01 December 2018, 08:33:23 pm »
bump, still available. Make a great Christmas prezzie to yourself........ "go on, you know you want to "
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« on: 01 November 2018, 06:16:09 pm »
Just for info, and I'm no fazer guru, but I have replaced that lower pipe which goes into the block ;the small spigot pipe joint was literally rotted through.
Drain the oil, drain the coolant and move the bike around a bit to be sure you get all the coolant out of that pipe and the water pump, then you don't need to drop the sump, UNLESS the o ring doesn't come out with the pipe 😩. Pull the pipe out slowly, push it in a bit a couple of times and hopefully the o ring WILL come out.
You DEFINITELY need a new genuine yam o ring for that pipe when putting it back into the block and the water pump. Clean everything, especially the block opening, put the o ring onto the pipe up to the moulded shoulder, lightly grease the o ring and carefully feed back in. It will need pressure for the last 5 mm as the o ring seals.
Sadly, the pipe is too long into the block to be removed/installed with the headers on .
Good luck , I got the header nuts/studs out with a welding torch but go carefully.
Hope this helps if you need to replace that pipe. 👍
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« on: 30 September 2018, 08:08:31 pm »
Hi there, I would say 2 main benefits over my standard shock, which to be fair was past its best. First, it's a much firmer Spring, which helped a lot bearing in mind I'm not a light-weight by any stretch. Second is the fully adjustable damping, including high and low speed compression. A bit of weight reduction and nice alloy instead of rusty steel are additional side benefits. I feel the best impact is likely either for quick sport riding or regular pillion carrying.
To be honest, my base reference is a 40000 mile standard shock , so I don't know how your reworked shock would compare.
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« on: 30 September 2018, 07:12:15 pm »
Bump...still available, open to sensible offers.
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« on: 06 September 2018, 04:06:20 pm »
oh well, unlucky for both of us.
2 bits of advice when installing the R6 shock ( you can take or leave it, it just improves the install, not absolutely essential ) :
1. Buy the R6 bottom bolt and nut. You need the nut because its an M10 on this bolt, compared to M8 on the Fazer bolt which is stepped down. I recommend the R6 bolt because its shoulder is longer to match the thicker alloy fork arms on the shock. If you use the fazer bolt, it doesn't fully support both sides of the shock fork which causes a twisting effect on the shock over time.
2. You will find that the R6 top mounting is not a wide as the fazer one. If you fit the R6 shock and torque up the mounting bolt to 40nm you risk crushing the frame mounting points together, such that you can't get the fazer shock back in if you ever want to sell the R6 shock ( guess how I know this ). I suggest you put a washer either side of the R6 top eye when you fit it ( its a very fiddly exercise but worth it )
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« on: 04 September 2018, 05:20:10 pm »
have decided to sell my Fazer , so I'm removing all the various bits and pieces I have added along the way.
For sale here is a modified R6 shock with dog-bones. Bought from Luke less than 6 months ago ( look at the dog-bones...still shiny new ).
The spring paint is a bit marked and scratched ( as came from Luke ) but he said just poor storage, shock was virtually unused. Its done less than 2,000 miles since.
Also included is the R6 lower mounting bolt. I bought this because the R6 bottom mounting fork is a different width to the Fazer unit and this bolt gives better support for the R6 shock.
Price from Luke was £275 all in, inc postage. I'm offering this for £195 inc Uk mainland postage. Be quick, grab a bargain. Payment to be by BACS please
PM me for pictures please, I cant load them onto this forum. If u want to collect to save postage, I'm near Preston Lancashire.
cheers
Loz
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« on: 14 August 2018, 08:33:18 pm »
Hi all, I've been following this thread with a lot of interest. Last year I bought a well used 40k miles tatty gen 1, and have steadily been overhauling everything. I rebuilt the forks with new stanchions due to severe pitting , and generally I was ok with them ( used 5w oil ). All the adjusters are free and limit adjustments showed they are working.
More recently with available funds , I fitted Luke's R6 shock conversion as the stock rear shock was weeping . I'm a hefty 120kg , and despite endless adjusting and testing, I still find the rear spring a bit on the harsh/stiff side ( as posted above ). I've also found that with the R6 shock fitted, I get front end "patter" at local speeds ( upto say 50 mph ). above that it gets better. If I re-fit the stock shock the front end patter goes but the wheezing rear damping sound returns , so its knackered for sure. The R6 shock is very smooth though so I might ask Maxton about a softer spring.
Now a question for you experts please :
When I overhauled the forks, I measured the spring lengths as stock ( but could still be aftermarket I guess ) and I noticed that the pre-load adjusters are light blue anodised and have only 3 adjustment rings....can anyone throw any light on this ? I don't have anything to compare to, but my impression is that they are stopping me getting to low pre-load settings.
BTW, here's a tip for you if you fit the R6 rear shock.... buy the R6 bottom mounting bolt as well. Due to the thicker bottom fork design on the R6 shock (alloy vs steel) , the stock Fazer bolt shoulder isn't long enough and can cause the R6 shock bottom to twist slightly, which will side load the seal over time.
PS the bike is silver reg DK03...., last owned on the Wirral. If you recognise it, you might know the history.
cheers Loz
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