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Messages - Falcon 269
Pages: 1 ... 74 75 [76] 77 78 79
1876
« on: 03 December 2011, 07:43:22 am »
Was referring to the sunshine you'r lucky enough to ride around in more than your eyesight Mike!
I got the original gag, Dekker. Just twisted it a bit for the comeback. November was unusually rainy so my riding took a hit. Looking better for next week, though.
1877
« on: 02 December 2011, 09:06:39 pm »
Bet Mike can hardly read his at all!
You're right. Should have gone to SpecSavers ...
1879
« on: 01 December 2011, 05:42:53 pm »
Shoot! There's stuff on the deck of the Titanic in better nick than that. Still, the headers came up OK ... not sure what you'll be able to do with what remains of the clamps, though. I'd start trawling ebay for some replacement headers.
1880
« on: 30 November 2011, 11:08:46 pm »
No need to worry about swarf from the tap, IMHO. The vast majority will come out on the grease on the tap. In the unlikely event that any stays at the bottom of the spigot, it will get burned up and blasted out the headers when you start up. If it bothers you still, clean out the spigots with a cotton bud after cutting the threads.
1881
« on: 30 November 2011, 05:01:48 pm »
Just a thought, but will R1 (4xv) wheels fit the Gen 1 Fazer thou ? Are there any other Yams (eg - R6's ?) who's wheels are identical to the Gen 1 ? If so then this will broaden the search for lightweight replacements in that PVM's, etc from an R1 will also fit the Gen 1, etc, etc. Cheers, Fletch
The early R1 front wheels are identical to the Fazer so if you can find lightweight R1 wheels from that era, one's a straight swap. The rear rim is larger and the brake disc is different. Also the caliper. An R1 rear can be made to fit but you have to do more to make it happen. Contact Devilsyam for more 'how to' on this ... he also does a kit to convert later model R1 wheels to Fazer use.
1882
« on: 30 November 2011, 08:23:26 am »
Heat, cold, wrenching, hammering, cussing and prayer.
1883
« on: 30 November 2011, 08:21:50 am »
If it's multi-role use and triple engine character you want, Jon, time to arrange a test on the new Triumph 1200 Adventurer I'd say. Got to be better than that wheezy, unreliable old German boxer twin thing. As for mods to the Gen 1, you missed out the guy that's done more than any of us - Devilsyam. One of the first to slot in R1 forks, plus a host of other tweaks and farkles over the years. Most recently, he's lead the way with the R6 shock mod which has transformed the bikes of dozens on this forum and over the Pond. Credit where it's due, Luke's done the most pioneering on the Gen 1 and that by some distance. Mike
1885
« on: 29 November 2011, 12:34:58 pm »
A good quality tool is important, sure. That said, I've used Lidl stuff and it's generally pretty good for the money. More important is to use a tapered tap - for starting threads - rather than a bottoming or plug tap, which are used to finish thread cutting at the bottom of a hole. The two types are shown here: I've done several AIS removals using this very tap: You won't have room to use the tap holder in your Lidl set. Turn the tap with an open-end spanner instead but be careful to keep the tap vertical and avoid side-loading it as you go. Obviously you know that you need to grease the tap and wind it back every 1/2 turn to clear swarf.
1886
« on: 26 November 2011, 07:36:25 am »
Thanks Mike - The photo shows the pipe with an inline filter / valve, is this neccesary or would a straight hose do?
I used the original hose because it fitted correctly and was free. The inline valve isn't essential, though.
1887
« on: 25 November 2011, 09:47:14 pm »
Pat's Site: http://www.cartestsoftware.com/fz1/carbcoolantbypass.htmlThe oracle. Read right to the end. Ignore Pat's thing of capping off the spigots and follow the guide to re-using the existing hose to bridge the radiator/thermostat housing. Mine's been like that for 6 years now. Simples!
1888
« on: 24 November 2011, 07:30:53 pm »
I believe that it can be done although I've not tried it myself. If you can't get the Micron R1 headers to fit, let me know as I know someone who might be interested in taking them off your hands.
1889
« on: 24 November 2011, 07:29:20 pm »
Have any of tyou tried light-weight wheels ?
Cable Tie has a set. Very nice. He says they make the bike a lot easier to wheel in and out of the shed and putting it on the centrestand for the weekly wash is a lot easier ...
1890
« on: 24 November 2011, 08:12:42 am »
Just buy some light weight wheels and you will get many benefits not just weight saving either.
Aye, and think of the weight you'll take out of your wallet as well Centre stand can go. If you remove the pillion pegs, don't throw them away. You may require them at MOT time. If a bike has a pillion seat, it must also have footpegs for the passenger.
1891
« on: 23 November 2011, 08:13:29 am »
Layout the curve you want to cut with masking tape. Cut about 1mm outside the intended finish ... a dremel with cut-off disc works well for this ... and then finish with fine emery paper.
1892
« on: 21 November 2011, 08:57:06 pm »
Septicangel Where did you get the streetfighter screen and how much was it. Ive tried several of the "miricle cure" screens to no avail and am currently using a Powerbronze d/b which was the first one I tried.
Take a standard screen and cut it down. Not difficult to do and cheap 'cos there's loads of them around.
1893
« on: 19 November 2011, 07:41:52 am »
Budget option - and entirely satisfactory solution - is to get the original shock resprung and overhauled (new gas and oil) which should cost around £160.
Linear forks springs rated to your weight plus fresh oil (try 5w for better compliance) should be less than £100.
1894
« on: 18 November 2011, 11:15:01 pm »
Ah, true, Nick ... been a while since I was in Sconnie Bottleland, eh? Have to check my passport visa is still valid, though. Say 'hi' for me to your chef. Mike
1895
« on: 18 November 2011, 09:35:04 pm »
The crankcase vents into the airbox so at that mileage I'd expect a little blow-by the rings, hence the oil/fuel mist in the airbox. Leaky carb boots would cause a hanging idle and other more persistent problems, so that's not likely to be the cause. Fazerider's explanation is feasible, for sure. Try without the air filter to see if there's an improvement. If you were able to knock dirt out, it might be more clogged up than your eyes lead you to believe. Also, consider trimming 1cm off the end of each plug lead. They're screwed onto the plug caps and over time the end core gets brittle and the electrical connectivity is reduced.
1896
« on: 18 November 2011, 09:28:45 pm »
I'm around 18 stone and do alot of spirited riding even loaded up ...
Set shock preload to max, compression damping to max and rebound 3 clicks out, as Nickodemon said. That's the shock as good as you'll get it. Forks - 2 rings preload showing, maybe one even. Compression adjusters 6 - 8 clicks out. Rebound 3 clicks out. These are the best you'll get with stock springs. What you should really set is your eyes and wallet on springs that are suited to your weight and riding style.
1897
« on: 18 November 2011, 02:00:27 pm »
With an ignition advancer fitted, set it to 5k rpm and call it good.
1898
« on: 18 November 2011, 08:46:19 am »
OK, I'm going to give this a go meself. I'll contact everyone else who expressed an interest by e-mail to check if they're still on board. If you want to hop on the group buy wagon, now's the time to speak up. mikegreatorexAThotmail.com
1899
« on: 18 November 2011, 08:43:09 am »
I hesitate to comment on screens because it's a very subjective thing. Also, I'm 5' 7" so not exactly a physical match for the OP. As Septikangel hints, going shorter with the screen is often a more comfortable way forward because the you move the air turbulence lower than your helmet. It'll be quieter and you won't feel like you're in a wind tunnel. If you want barndoor-like, head in an air pocket protection from the wind, buy an FJR1300 or a big Beemer tourer.
1900
« on: 18 November 2011, 08:37:13 am »
I set the TPS so the tach needle flickers between 5 & 10k rpm. A small amount of advance over the stock setting. You could also do Ivan's dynamic method which is described on Pat's Site, too. You'll end up with the ignition advanced again. I find my way quicker and less likely to piss off the neighbours.
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