Hey Wookie, Did the old oil stink when you took it out. I changed mine when i did some modding to my suspension over winter and it was Minging, smell like rotting fish. and was metallic silver grey in colour.
Nope, it was in excellent condition and it was red.
Oil would thin out over time, but don't forget you can buy heavier oil than 15w as well.
I realise this which did make me wonder what was put in there. It was almost as thick as diff oil I changed last year.....which I think was something like 75w
I've never had a front end problem that many here have experienced, but I had a leaking fork seal so had to change mine the other week (along with a kebab-supplied R6 shock on the back). The first thing I noticed was that the oil that came out was in excellent condition and very, very thick. Much more so than the 15w I put back in. There is no noticeable difference in the front end since the change and I wondered if for some reason fork oil thickens up as it gets old?? Mine had been in for at least 35k miles.
I had the same problem with 2 studs. heated 'em with a gas burner and was able to unscrew them no prob!
Ditto.
I didn't even bother trying to get any of them off until I had soaked them in Plusgas for a few days then used a blowtorch. Funny enough they all came off dead easily
I replaced my aged rubber ones a couple of years ago with 2 line HELs and immediately noticed a difference, but this could be down to the rubber ones being knackered.
The million dollar question is does this need fixed before MOT or will it wait? - as all the lights do work ? - do they test the flash function?
It is not tested and will pass. Mine hasn't worked for years. A headlamp flash has no meaning in Road Traffic law so it would be a bit silly to include it in the MOT, besides which I was taught to never be courteous on a bike as it invites a rear end shunt.
Mine does this too, but I have checked bearings and it isn't them. I think it's more to do with weight distribution ie lightening up the front. The steering stays fine until any slight imperfection in the road surface causes the wobble to start. With the weight being mainly over the back wheel the wobble just gets worse. The weight factor isn't helped by me being big and usually having a full top box.
If you do the couple of tests above and there is no play then just try riding holding the bars
I too have a Blueflame can as I had one on my Thou as well. They are very good and a nice note with the baffle out, I have no idea what they sound like with the baffle in . Mine is an oval though so not like the one above.
With what did you heat them - dear Wookee dear Wookee - with what did you heat them- dear Wookee with what
A camping gaz butane torch....more commonly known as a plumbers torch. They cost a few quid from any plumbers place and you only need a little can of gas. Listen to the radio when you do it and you heat it up for about one record length then spray some penetrating fluid on it and let it soak in while the DJ chats, then heat for another record length. It will be glowing by then and should come off with a bit of rocking back and forth. I used very little pressure.
You have to be a bit careful after spraying the fluid as it is flammable and will flare up. The other thing I used was three different spanners/sockets as I couldn't get a socket on all of the nuts. Check what spanner/socket fits BEFORE you heat each nut up. Otherwise you end up fiddling around with a red hot nut and that stings a bit
I did mine yesterday 42k's worth of seized nuts came off reasonably easily with heat and very gentle persuasion. I had put penetrating fluid on the previous day just to get something on them, I can't quite see the point of doing it for days as it either goes in or it doesn't. When I was heating the centre ones I did spray them again after the first couple of minutes of heat before re-applying. Once I got the first bit of 'give' in the nut I rocked it back and forth a few times before applying more pressure to undo it.
For the time being I've had to put the old nuts back on as the new ones I ordered aren't domed. Can anyone give me a link to the domed ones please?
Suspension setup is an individual thing and very easy to get wrong. I weigh nearly twice as much as you so I'm not certain anything I can offer you will be much good !
A couple of guys from work have gone up to a man in Norfolk who changed their fork springs, to something that suits, and oil then set up their settings after speaking to them about their riding style. He then sent them off round some good local roads and then spoke to them about the results and told them what to change and how if they want to change certain aspects if they went on track days or took pillions etc.
Both of them are experienced bikers and were very impressed with the results.
The cost for this was about £250 and I'll be going up there once I've sourced a new rear shock.
How old are they? Have a look for the date code on them (a 4 digit number somewhere on the sidewalls).
As said above, I'd try dropping the tyre pressures too....if nothing else it'll help them heat up more quickly....do it a little bit at a time and ride the same bit of road to see if you get any improvement.
I had a thou for 50k miles and would still have it if it weren't for some diesel . For a short period I had a VFR750 that I bought on a whim as it was a steal. I rode it for a total of 300 miles and found it so uncomfortable that anything more than 10 miles was agony. I have the little fazer now and find it easily the best of the lot, it was nice to have all the power of the thousand that was nice and smooth due to an Ivan's kit, but ultimately there is no need for this extra power. There's no way you can ride an fzs600 to its full potential on our roads.
I've been taking note of my mpg since I've had mine (about 11k miles now) and always check what changes I make to the bike affect that figure. I'm a big bloke so won't get into the high 50's ever, and I ride in a spirited fashion mainly commuting.
I've never used high octane fuel, so can't comment on that.
I run slightly lower tyre pressures in the winter to help them get and stay hot. This has a negative effect on the mpg.
Oil and filter changes make very little difference.
Different garages make no difference.
K&N air filter made no difference.
What has made a BIG difference was balancing my carbs a few weeks ago. Since then my mpg has improved by 8-10% over about 5 fill-ups and I didn't think they were that bad when I did them
Sorry to hear of your off. Who told you about the ligament damage and did they do this after you had an MRI or was it a bit of guesswork on their behalf? I only ask because my, quite severe, ligament damage went undiagnosed by the NHS and required surgery.....
You have to remember when Con & Use was introduced ie when HID was just a twinkle in the eyes of the manufacturers.
You're unlikely to find definitive stuff online about it and/or with MOT testers. VOSA would be the easiest people to contact, but I would always take my cue from the bike manufacturers themselves. Let's face it, if they were legal don't you think BMW would have them on their big tourers??
They are currently an anomaly with MOT testing very similar to the big problem we currently have with tinted front windows on cars. These are illegal, but they will pass the MOT cos they aren't on the list. That's because currently they can't agree who will pay for the testing equipment. It doesn't stop you potentially ending up at the Old Bailey like this bloke. Nor does it stop you winning points and a fine from me.
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. Mine is an oval though so not like the one above.
With what did you heat them - dear Wookee dear Wookee - with what did you heat them- dear Wookee with what 
I take it they're deep enough to be tightened to the right torque?
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