your just a sh*t stirring little bitch. Why don't piss off to the forum you came from.

Kentish 1 - 0 Adeejaysdelight

Quote from: lds1973 on 21 August 2013, 12:33:24 pm

Quote from: darrsi on 21 August 2013, 10:17:28 am

Quote from: lds1973 on 21 August 2013, 09:03:16 am

I'd whip it off and remove sprocket, clean all with wire brush and refit with thread lock, torque to 80 and see how you get on. Or whilst its all off check the nut runs up the shaft.

He's already said it didn't feel tight at 90Nm.

Exactly. Something isn't right hence the need to inspect and clean. I wouldn't be riding around on possible cross threaded/ damaged thread etc etc. Would you?

Judging by the photo', the shaft thread looks more than ropey to me anyway.

Its not worth chancing it at all.

Further work required.

I'd whip it off and remove sprocket, clean all with wire brush and refit with thread lock, torque to 80 and see how you get on. Or whilst its all off check the nut runs up the shaft.

changed the fork oil to 15w on my FZS600. The oil that came out of it was minging.

Up one or down one on the front is more noticeable than up one or down one on the back obviously but its also cheaper that way. A front sprocket is 15 quid where a decent rear can be 30. Going down one on the front is a quick way of giving you much better acceleration but at the loss of top end ( who does 130mph anyway) just make sure you have the clearance round the swingarm though. Also a smaller front sprocket will wear your chain out a little quicker as it is going around a tighter corner faster more of the time.

Be kind to your wallet and adjust front only. Its also and easier job.

Looks like he has wound a threaded hex bolt onto the remaining stud then put a bolt into it. Cleaver idea actually

spot on, its a m6 coupling nut ground down to about 15mm. I had to thread the remaining stud right up to the engine. Apart from that its dead simple and no one will notice. I would'nt risk trying to remove the stud if:

a) i was'nt sure of my abilities.
b) i did'nt have the correct tools or
c) simply removing the engine was an expensive alternative.

Its only one stud and no 3 so you wont even see it. the exhaust bolts are only done up very lightly so it will hold all your exhaust gases in no bother.

try this if you have got stud showing from block, no need to risk snapping anymore off and itll pass an MOT like it no probs, trust me. I got the idea off someone else on here.

Details ATT00020

ATT00020

How do they make such a difference in comfort? Is it just the change in bar position or do the bars cope with vibrations etc better?

i havent tested them on the open road yet but they feel much more natural to me in the garage, but then again I was hoping for that.

They look very wide, don't people normally hack some off either side of these!?

its prob the picture. they are only about an inch and a half wider each side than normal, just like putting your hand over the original bar end.

To be honest mate just use any oil in it. You could even use old engine oil and it'll be OK as long as it doesn't have too much shit in it. I'm using half and half old oil/ new oil. Have a look in places like wilko/ home bargains for cheap shit oil.

How much for the crash bungs posted to england.?

Can't recommend scottoilers enough. Your chain will last almost twice as long with one. Fit and forget. Just make sure you check the oil reservoir every now and then. If you are patient you can fit one so you can't even see it. Have a look on the show me your bike page in the fzs600 folder, page 18 silver box eye, I have one fitted and you'd be hard pushed to tell.