Fazer Owners Club - Unofficial
Bikes, Hints'n'Tips => FZS600 Fazer => Topic started by: Spiffle on 20 June 2018, 07:07:44 pm
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Hello fellow Foccers (that will never not give me a giggle)
Have noticed that on some occasions my clock has been reset on the bike earlier, it's happened once or twice while driving as well (clock+ODO reset, dashboard and gauges reset before returning to normal).
One morning it 'hung up' and repeated the initial startup where the clock blinks etc endlessly. No lights, seemed to have no or very low power. I left it for a while, treated it to some well chosen words, wiggled some wires etc, few mins later she's back to normal and I've not seen the issue again (5 days or so ago).
Since the bike's already not behaving 100% right I've been suspecting the regulator is failing. Normal problem on this island they say, as it's very dusty and very warm.
Anyone seen the same or similar problem on theirs?
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I would suspect a corroded connector block. You need to clean as many as you can find. It's a long and boring job but use some ACF-50 or similar stuff to do a good job.
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I would suspect a corroded connector block. You need to clean as many as you can find. It's a long and boring job but use some ACF-50 or similar stuff to do a good job.
Cable sleeves, electrical tape, strips and ACF50 and I'll make a day of it - needs a good tidying up anyways. I did poke around the fusebox and connectors before trying again though, and to my surprise there was no corrosion in the connectors I checked and all of them had clean metal contact surfaces.
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It may be one somewhere near the headstock. I've not checked out the Fazers wiring yet but I had similar problems with an FJ1200.
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It may be one somewhere near the headstock. I've not checked out the Fazers wiring yet but I had similar problems with an FJ1200.
Now that you mentioned it, the bike has been cutting out at full left lock sometimes, and it wasn't the running switch causing it when I checked.
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It may be one somewhere near the headstock. I've not checked out the Fazers wiring yet but I had similar problems with an FJ1200.
Now that you mentioned it, the bike has been cutting out at full left lock sometimes, and it wasn't the running switch causing it when I checked.
That's actually a good bit of info, start by looking at whatever touches the frame on full lock, with any luck it's visible rather than being inside a loom.
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That's a very good bit of info and it is certainly the first area to be looking at. Also check further down the loom as the steering may be pulling the loom upwards and shorting it out on the frame further away from the headstock.
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It might not be shorting when turning. It might be "breaking" when turning too
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It might not be shorting when turning. It might be "breaking" when turning too
It hasn't happened again since I wiggled and reconnected the cables I could find, cleaning out dust etc. But the 8k+ trouble has become worse at times, especially if I go full throttle through the gears it just plutters and foccs around above 8-9k.
New filters are on it's way (air and fuel), new regulator (ebay ftw) and a carb repair kit ought to do the trick.
A milestone - I've now spent over half the initial price on upgrades and replacement parts :lol
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It might not be shorting when turning. It might be "breaking" when turning too
It hasn't happened again since I wiggled and reconnected the cables I could find, cleaning out dust etc. But the 8k+ trouble has become worse at times, especially if I go full throttle through the gears it just plutters and foccs around above 8-9k.
New filters are on it's way (air and fuel), new regulator (ebay ftw) and a carb repair kit ought to do the trick.
A milestone - I've now spent over half the initial price on upgrades and replacement parts :lol
:rollin that's about right, you need deep pockets to keep a 15 year old on the road. :) The 8k+ trouble could be a vac leak if she's running lean, have a look at the condition of the carb rubbers.
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It might not be shorting when turning. It might be "breaking" when turning too
It hasn't happened again since I wiggled and reconnected the cables I could find, cleaning out dust etc. But the 8k+ trouble has become worse at times, especially if I go full throttle through the gears it just plutters and foccs around above 8-9k.
New filters are on it's way (air and fuel), new regulator (ebay ftw) and a carb repair kit ought to do the trick.
A milestone - I've now spent over half the initial price on upgrades and replacement parts :lol
:rollin that's about right, you need deep pockets to keep a 15 year old on the road. :) The 8k+ trouble could be a vac leak if she's running lean, have a look at the condition of the carb rubbers.
Initial price was just shy of 1600 eur, 32.000km on the clock. But I think it's been converted to 'sport' somewhere along the road, had low bars, smaller windscreen and adjusted rear-brake and gear levers, which I had to adjust after the Renthal 754(?) came on. Does anyone know the stock length of the doglegs? I'm no heavyweight and the spring is at 3/4 hard adjustment. Anyone able to make an internet opinion on if the arse is high? https://i.imgur.com/AiRFhal.jpg
It's booked for a major service, have to do forks and front bearings, it's not great while braking, vibrations etc. New pads, went GG because they adapt to the worn disks - later on those have to be replaced, after this set of pads. They'll flush the tank and service the carbs at the same time.
Landed on the DID X ring gold and black, about €125 for a kit with JT sprockets. The current ones might well be original from the sound and looks, but at least the front nut and lock has been changed. Got a new one for that too.
Since the shocks have being serviced, I'll be going for 15w instead of 10w - has anyone found this to be uncomfortable? Roads here range from good to scattered spots of asphalt with some gravel on, so while i want to get rid of the ridiculous nosedive while braking maybe mixing to 12,5 would fit better?
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It might not be shorting when turning. It might be "breaking" when turning too
It hasn't happened again since I wiggled and reconnected the cables I could find, cleaning out dust etc. But the 8k+ trouble has become worse at times, especially if I go full throttle through the gears it just plutters and foccs around above 8-9k.
New filters are on it's way (air and fuel), new regulator (ebay ftw) and a carb repair kit ought to do the trick.
A milestone - I've now spent over half the initial price on upgrades and replacement parts :lol
:rollin that's about right, you need deep pockets to keep a 15 year old on the road. :) The 8k+ trouble could be a vac leak if she's running lean, have a look at the condition of the carb rubbers.
Initial price was just shy of 1600 eur, 32.000km on the clock. But I think it's been converted to 'sport' somewhere along the road, had low bars, smaller windscreen and adjusted rear-brake and gear levers, which I had to adjust after the Renthal 754(?) came on. Does anyone know the stock length of the doglegs? I'm no heavyweight and the spring is at 3/4 hard adjustment. Anyone able to make an internet opinion on if the arse is high? https://i.imgur.com/AiRFhal.jpg
It's booked for a major service, have to do forks and front bearings, it's not great while braking, vibrations etc. New pads, went GG because they adapt to the worn disks - later on those have to be replaced, after this set of pads. They'll flush the tank and service the carbs at the same time.
Landed on the DID X ring gold and black, about €125 for a kit with JT sprockets. The current ones might well be original from the sound and looks, but at least the front nut and lock has been changed. Got a new one for that too.
Since the shocks have being serviced, I'll be going for 15w instead of 10w - has anyone found this to be uncomfortable? Roads here range from good to scattered spots of asphalt with some gravel on, so while i want to get rid of the ridiculous nosedive while braking maybe mixing to 12,5 would fit better?
Go with the 15w, I found it to be a big improvement as far as handling is concerned.
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An update!
Replaced the regulator, air and fuel filter - that did the trick! Rectifier was the main culprit.
Someone had also used KN clean+oil (16 gallons or so) on the airfilter that was installed, leaving sticky gunk in the airbox and inlets - probably also crapped down the carbs.
Carbs will be treated to 4x this: https://www.sklepmotocyklowy.pl/pl/produkt,19098,zestaw-naprawczy-gaznika.html (https://www.sklepmotocyklowy.pl/pl/produkt,19098,zestaw-naprawczy-gaznika.html) and a balancing late July.
Plus the 15w oil, new front bearings and chain+sprockets :)
I can recommend https://www.ebay.com/usr/motorcycle_recycle?_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2754 (https://www.ebay.com/usr/motorcycle_recycle?_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2754) for rectifiers, that store delivered in 5 days from Poland to Malta at a good price.