clutch cable fit

[mr wayneker]

hi all after taking the sprocket cover off to replace a snapped clutch cable
I don't know if the bit that houses the end of the cable should have movement in it when operating the screw mechanism
mine doesn't...that's probably why it snapped right at the end of the cable....

and another thing how does it all work...does the mechanism screw out when pulling clutch in and push the steel rod sticking out by the
sprocket....I only ask because my steel rod doesn't push in..don't know if I pushed it in when cleaning around it

should I pull it out abit?????

[sinto]

hi all after taking the sprocket cover off to replace a snapped clutch cable
I don't know if the bit that houses the end of the cable should have movement in it when operating the screw mechanism
mine doesn't...that's probably why it snapped right at the end of the cable....

and another thing how does it all work...does the mechanism screw out when pulling clutch in and push the steel rod sticking out by the
sprocket....I only ask because my steel rod doesn't push in..don't know if I pushed it in when cleaning around it

should I pull it out abit?????

I did say on your other post that you can ride your bike without the clutch, it's the starting and stopping that's the exciting part,  could of saved you pushing it up a hill.

Anyway,
Have you got a manual or downloaded it from the download section?
That would explain it a lot better than me but in essence, that rod has to be pushed in and once you put your cover back on the adjustment screw hits that and pushes your clutch plate.

You'll need to slacken of the adjustment screw......using a socket or spanner for the locking bolt and putting a screwdriver on the screw so the two don't turn together.

[mr wayneker]

cheers sinto I have Haynes and manual

so on that push rod there is the arm that holds the end of the cable .....should that be free to articulate??????
looks like mine has seized that's why it snapped

[sinto]

cheers sinto I have Haynes and manual

so on that push rod there is the arm that holds the end of the cable .....should that be free to articulate??????
looks like mine has seized that's why it snapped

Yes it should have movement, although it's still connected to the plate cover, remember the clutch cable pulls on that and transfers  to a push movement on the rod so you can change gears.
If you look at the manual it'll show you the set up, generally it'll be full of crud from the sprocket/chain etc so while it's off, soaking it in degreaser/paraffin and get it clean so you can check it all, as the cable is broken you'll be able to get at it easy, search the forum as there was a thing about clutch cable mechanism, with good info

Edit..
Here it is, read this......

http://foc-u.co.uk/index.php/topic,10124.msg105271.html#msg105271

[mr wayneker]

yeah found that post very good although I wont be trying to take the screw mechanism apart

how much does it push the rod in.....as I cant push it in with a spanner side on...can you pull the rod out and with your hands and just
return it....up to the line of crud on the rod???

going to the doctors now to get new cable....if they have it in stock..handy having a bike parts unit 1km down the road

[sinto]

I pulled mine out a wee bit, wouldn't come right out and greased it before pushing it back in, and after putting it all back in and adjusting it, used it for a day then re adjusted it as it had 'settled' in if you know what I mean?

[sinto]

Take your old clutch cable, inner and outer as they might not have the fazer one, but others might fit

[maxzer1500]

yeah found that post very good although I wont be trying to take the screw mechanism apart

how much does it push the rod in.....as I cant push it in with a spanner side on...can you pull the rod out and with your hands and just
return it....up to the line of crud on the rod???

going to the doctors now to get new cable....if they have it in stock..handy having a bike parts unit 1km down the road

  Just clean the 'crud' off the rod, you can't expect to push it in by hand. You might have to take the screw mechanism apart if it don't move freely and yes you could have saved yourself the push but probably not if not confident.

[mr wayneker]

ok so got the new cable

now just have to take the screw mechanism off and free up the arm that holds the end of the cable...

should I spray some white grease in and around the whole area before I screw the cover back on..

I know I should of carried on riding the bike but wanted to stop and have a look....and then when I got
back in a shit state blowing out my ass I could of bumped it in gear and got home...
   

[sinto]

Why are you taking off the screw mechanism?
It's just a matter of releasing the old cable from the lever end and replacing in the same position as old one.
Yes, I'd certainly grease it at the mechanism end once you've got it free of all the crud and it's moving, what type of grease? That's open for debate on here I'd say
I'd also put 3in1 oil down the inner cable before you install it

[mr wayneker]

the arm on the mechanism is seized.....that's why it cut through the cable rubbing where it comes out of the cover
that's why I need to get it off to free it up.

oh dear does anyone know what size screws hold the screw mech on they are made of toffee...?

[sinto]

Pictures would help us help you and in turn would help fellow foccers in future

[Paulfzs]

we need pictures to better understand whats going on.




you wont be able to push the rod in by hand it takes a lot of force and you may end up bending it if you try.


the arm inside the case should move up and down in time with the ball bearing part in the middle.


if its gunked up cover it in petrol/diesel/white spirit and attack it with a fairly coarse paintbrush to clean it out.


then try bending and moving the arm by hand, give it a lil wiggle.




if i remember correctly the screws holding it on are made of cheese and torqued to  50 million newton miles.

[darrsi]

No need to oil a brand new cable, if anything it's better without it as it will be totally free of any resistant dirt, oil, etc.

[sinto]

No need to oil a brand new cable, if anything it's better without it as it will be totally free of any resistant dirt, oil, etc.

Well, I'd certainly still oil it regardless as friction would set in quicker if it's not, using your thought darrsi, if you put a new chain and sprocket set on, would you not oil it as it's new?

[mr wayneker]

ok all fitted....arm on the screw mech all free....just needed long nose pliers and a strong forearm..didn't need
to take the mech off in the end....couldn't budge the screws...now its all greased up and FREE AS A BIRD NOW

whats next????????

thanks all

oh is there a torque on the bolts for the sprocket cover?

[darrsi]

No need to oil a brand new cable, if anything it's better without it as it will be totally free of any resistant dirt, oil, etc.

Well, I'd certainly still oil it regardless as friction would set in quicker if it's not, using your thought darrsi, if you put a new chain and sprocket set on, would you not oil it as it's new?

Totally different, that's metal on metal.
Cables have a nylon or teflon sleeve covering them, so from new they should be totally fine, adding oil will only encourage dirt to stick.
Over time dirt will inevitably build up, then it's time to get the oil out.

[mr wayneker]

I didn't oil cable as had a film of something on it all ready

[sinto]

I didn't oil cable as had a film of something on it all ready

It had a film on the cable? Strange, but I'm not looking at what you have

Well, it's not what I'd do but it's what darrsi would do, so from the replies, you have a 50/50 chance of getting it right

[Paulfzs]

torque on sprocket cover probably 10nm