give the bike some beans on a run to see if that makes it click on a notch. If not, put it in gear and rock the bike back and forth a bit with the engine off .
Does it happen in at tickover or reving the engine in neutral or when the clutch is pulled in?
Hi.Have u removed the Ignition cover on the right side of the crank to confirm u defo have a slack chain, also a good time to ensure nowts come loose in there, if it is a slack chain & the tensioner refuses to click up a notch, u can ease it up a notch with a screwdriver up inside the cover, push chain away from the tensioner a tad & see if she clicks up a notch, not the correct way obviously, but it'll confirm if it's actually chain noise you're hearing if this quietens it down, OEM tensioners are a bit iffy, most of us invest in a manual tensioner, they all wear out at some point, as do chains.
OEM tensioners are a bit iffy, most of us invest in a manual tensioner, they all wear out at some point, as do chains.
Buzzing is usually caused by vibration between items, and would be a common sound from the Tensioner with a metal bar up against it, It would be extremely unusual to have an issue with the tensioner on a bike with very regular oil changes. Any issue with the Yamaha Tensioner I have come across are usually rust in the tensioner from lack of use and lack of oil changes. It could be as simple as a perished rubber allowing metal on metal or a loose dowel in a hole, the list is endless. Are all the tank mount intact and bolts tight. I came across some time ago where the owner of a Fireblade was being driven demented by a metallic buzzzing sound which was a a bolt dropped by a mechanic on to the exhaust which was jammed in between two downpipes
Fazers don't have tappets, they have inverted bucket and shims. As with all bucket and shims valves the clearances get tighter not looser, in use unless you've got a serious lack of oil problem and the cam have worn, again very unlikely. You don't want an utterly silent top end, this will ultimately burn out you valve seats if allowed to run tight i.e. below the min spec/clearance. Fazers rarely need much adjustment, most don't need touching until 50k plus. It's fairly straight forward to check, if you know what you're doing and have all the tools that is. If any are tight it's a 'cams off/out job.I'll refer you to the answer I gave you on 5 Mar. If it's not that it will very likely be some other item that now either gone brittle or touching the frame/firing etc. Another big and difficult to find (if you don't know what you're looking for) is the H1 blub cover in the headlight and/or the mountings for the headlight unit and clocks, same for the radiator/fan mounts. All will vibrate once the mountings become brittle/worn.
Epic faff. So it looks like you were right all along in your suspicions and were not imagining things.
Quote from: fazersharp on 12 August 2023, 10:24:14 pmEpic faff. So it looks like you were right all along in your suspicions and were not imagining things.Cost aside, they did say my pistons, valves, etc, all looked good, so my regular oil changes paid off, and the fact my cam chain has not faltered for 64K is also a sign of reasonable maintenance.My bad, I overlooked this part of the engine, and I'm paying the price, but lesson learned.