Noisy tyres, but only when warm?

[NitramA]

I’ve got a noise like a stone rattling around in a plastic box coming from what sounds like the front end.
It’s not a mechanical noise but I can hear it until about 50mph. Above that it’s drowned out by the wind. Trouble is that now I’ve heard it I can’t ignore it!

After much playing I believe it’s nothing to do with the engine (noise is still there with the engine switched off and coasting).
It’s not the brakes as applying makes no difference.
I’ve had all the fairing panels off and applied tape at the joints.


It does however seem to be related to road surface, even though it doesn’t change pitch with speed. The coarser the surface the louder it seems to be. Looking on line it seems the tyres, Metz z6 roadtecs have a reputation for being noisey
So I thought I’d remove the front mudguard to see if it was amplifying the noise from the tyre.
I’ve just been out for a ride and thought I’d cracked it. The noise was absent, so went for a ride well pleased with myself.
Came back after a couple of miles and it made the same noise on the same road I’d been on not 5 miles earlier! The odd thing is that it was quiet after I’d already been out on a 5-10 mile run so the tyres shouldn’t have been appreciably warmer on the second lap.
I don’t believe it’s wheel bearings as it was only mot’d yesterday. The chains freshly oiled too.


It’s been put back in the garage and I’m having a sulk. Anyone have any ideas?

[red98]

Had something simular myself recently...drove me mad and then i realized it was the front indicators , they are quite a loose fit in the fairing so i wrapped a bit of narrow insulating tape in  the grove around the indicator stem, bit of a bodge but it worked.

[NitramA]

Oh no! Another thing to check 😂😂
I’ll have a look now

[NitramA]

Went into the garage and flipped the indicators. Definitely loose and the noise sounded very very similar to what I’m hearing.
I’ve now taped it all up and will try tomorrow..
Fingers crossed.

[NitramA]

B@@ger it, noise is still there. Even holding the front indicators makes no difference.
Really a shame as I thought that was it!
It has to be the front tyre even though the sound is more like a clutch basket rattle than the howl or whistle than I’d have expected. Can’t be the clutch as I can hear it with the engine off and coasting.
Defo changes with road surface and to me it sounds deafening.
Agreed there’s a lot of wind noise that confuses things.
Have to walk away from it for a bit……

[red98]

Thats a shame, Good to check though. Might be worth checking the wheel bearings yourself might have been missed by the MOT man.

[Grahamm]

Could you mount your phone on the bars and get a recording of the noise?

[NitramA]

Could you mount your phone on the bars and get a recording of the noise?

I’ve tried that and the microphone gets overwhelmed by the general wind noise.

[NitramA]

Thats a shame, Good to check though. Might be worth checking the wheel bearings yourself might have been missed by the MOT man.

I’m wondering if you may be right. Whatever, the noise has me concerned enough that I’m going to check out everything at the pointy end again.
It’s too easy (at least for me) to get confused about when the noise started and after what so I think it’s time to go back to basics and start again.

[b1k3rdude]

Ok have yoyu checked the following items -

• there is a anti-vibration rubber mounted on a small arm and pushese down on the inside of the lower part of the front fairing (under the headlight) - If this isnt pressing down on the fiaring itself you will get vibes - (18A-24724-00 - https://www.fowlersparts.co.uk/parts/4189363/fzs1000s-fazer-1c2a-2005-070-a/cowling-1)
• the wind screen as the 6 little rubber grommets cant slightly shrink and get hard over time. - (90179-05523 - https://www.fowlersparts.co.uk/parts/4189363/fzs1000s-fazer-1c2a-2005-070-a/cowling-1)
• check the mirror bolts arent loose, as these bolt the fairing and the mirrors to the sub-frame.
• check the mirror hinges, once these get loose you either have to replace them or do what I did and dremel out the rivits and replace with a bolt and nylock nut to remove the slack/slop.
• check the left and right infills have all the vibration foam strip applied, these can go flat over time. You can buy these or got to Hobbycraft and get a thin sheet of high density (one sided adhesive) foam and cut/make your own - (5LV-2834E-00 - https://www.fowlersparts.co.uk/parts/4189363/fzs1000s-fazer-1c2a-2005-070-a/cowling-1)
• check the anti-vibration rubbers are present and install between the clocks and the infills - (5LV-28346-10 - https://www.fowlersparts.co.uk/parts/4189367/fzs1000s-fazer-1c2a-2005-070-a/meter)
• lastly if all the other options arent whats causing the noise then only remaining item/s are the front wiring loom and relays. The loom should come with foam tape on parts of its length where it rubs against the fairing and the headlight. And the relays direction under the clocks should all have little rubber isolation mounts.
• And thinking outside the box, do you have a carbon fibre or other very ridged rear hugger - the CF one I have would resonate at certain speeds, changing it for a fibreglass one remove that noise.
• And I assume you have checked all the obvious things, like front mudguard bolts, ancillary nuts & bolts on the front forks, horn mounting, radiator cover bolts, you just check all the non-structural nots and bolts on the bike. Oh and I assume the petrol tank bolts arent loose..?

Regarding the infills, be carefull not to crack or damage these as these are very hard to replece now. if you do crack them the only viable repair options are plastic weld or wel & stabple kits (https://smile.amazon.co.uk/s?k=plastic+weld+stapler&sprefix=plastic+weld+and+sta%2Caps%2C77&ref=nb_sb_ss_ts-doa-p_2_20)


Ask me how I know all this.....

[NitramA]

Ok have yoyu checked the following items -

• there is a anti-vibration rubber mounted on a small arm and pushese down on the inside of the lower part of the front fairing (under the headlight) - If this isnt pressing down on the fiaring itself you will get vibes - (18A-24724-00 - https://www.fowlersparts.co.uk/parts/4189363/fzs1000s-fazer-1c2a-2005-070-a/cowling-1)
• the wind screen as the 6 little rubber grommets cant slightly shrink and get hard over time. - (90179-05523 - https://www.fowlersparts.co.uk/parts/4189363/fzs1000s-fazer-1c2a-2005-070-a/cowling-1)
• check the mirror bolts arent loose, as these bolt the fairing and the mirrors to the sub-frame.
• check the mirror hinges, once these get loose you either have to replace them or do what I did and dremel out the rivits and replace with a bolt and nylock nut to remove the slack/slop.
• check the left and right infills have all the vibration foam strip applied, these can go flat over time. You can buy these or got to Hobbycraft and get a thin sheet of high density (one sided adhesive) foam and cut/make your own - (5LV-2834E-00 - https://www.fowlersparts.co.uk/parts/4189363/fzs1000s-fazer-1c2a-2005-070-a/cowling-1)
• check the anti-vibration rubbers are present and install between the clocks and the infills - (5LV-28346-10 - https://www.fowlersparts.co.uk/parts/4189367/fzs1000s-fazer-1c2a-2005-070-a/meter)
• lastly if all the other options arent whats causing the noise then only remaining item/s are the front wiring loom and relays. The loom should come with foam tape on parts of its length where it rubs against the fairing and the headlight. And the relays direction under the clocks should all have little rubber isolation mounts.
• And thinking outside the box, do you have a carbon fibre or other very ridged rear hugger - the CF one I have would resonate at certain speeds, changing it for a fibreglass one remove that noise.
• And I assume you have checked all the obvious things, like front mudguard bolts, ancillary nuts & bolts on the front forks, horn mounting, radiator cover bolts, you just check all the non-structural nots and bolts on the bike. Oh and I assume the petrol tank bolts arent loose..?

Regarding the infills, be carefull not to crack or damage these as these are very hard to replece now. if you do crack them the only viable repair options are plastic weld or wel & stabple kits (https://smile.amazon.co.uk/s?k=plastic+weld+stapler&sprefix=plastic+weld+and+sta%2Caps%2C77&ref=nb_sb_ss_ts-doa-p_2_20)
Ask me how I know all this.....

Well that’s my quiet evenings filled! 


All good suggestions and whilst I’ve done most of those, a revisit has got to be worthwhile.

[b1k3rdude]

Well that’s my quiet evenings filled! All good suggestions and whilst I’ve done most of those, a revisit has got to be worthwhile.

Jokes aside, most of those are 5min jobs. Imho the anti-vib rubber that presses agaisnt the underside of the fairing is always overlooked, followed by the screen and infills.

I would also suggest getting some re-usable cable ties/tidys for all the cables inside the front fairing. 

[NitramA]

As an update

• there is a anti-vibration rubber mounted on a small arm and pushese down on the inside of the lower part of the front fairing (under the headlight) - If this isnt pressing down on the fiaring itself you will get vibes - (18A-24724-00 - https://www.fowlersparts.co.uk/parts/4189363/fzs1000s-fazer-1c2a-2005-070-a/cowling-1)Chcked this. All seems fine although may be best to remove the fairing to check properly.
• the wind screen as the 6 little rubber grommets cant slightly shrink and get hard over time. - (90179-05523 - https://www.fowlersparts.co.uk/parts/4189363/fzs1000s-fazer-1c2a-2005-070-a/cowling-1) All good
• check the mirror bolts arent loose, as these bolt the fairing and the mirrors to the sub-frame. All good
• check the mirror hinges, once these get loose you either have to replace them or do what I did and dremel out the rivits and replace with a bolt and nylock nut to remove the slack/slop. All good
• check the left and right infills have all the vibration foam strip applied, these can go flat over time. You can buy these or got to Hobbycraft and get a thin sheet of high density (one sided adhesive) foam and cut/make your own - (5LV-2834E-00 - https://www.fowlersparts.co.uk/parts/4189363/fzs1000s-fazer-1c2a-2005-070-a/cowling-1) Already have copious amounts of foam around the fairing.
• check the anti-vibration rubbers are present and install between the clocks and the infills - (5LV-28346-10 - https://www.fowlersparts.co.uk/parts/4189367/fzs1000s-fazer-1c2a-2005-070-a/meter) Present and correct
• lastly if all the other options arent whats causing the noise then only remaining item/s are the front wiring loom and relays. The loom should come with foam tape on parts of its length where it rubs against the fairing and the headlight. And the relays direction under the clocks should all have little rubber isolation mounts.  Will have a proper check with the fairing off
• And thinking outside the box, do you have a carbon fibre or other very ridged rear hugger - the CF one I have would resonate at certain speeds, changing it for a fibreglass one remove that noise. All standard at the rear end.
• And I assume you have checked all the obvious things, like front mudguard bolts, ancillary nuts & bolts on the front forks, horn mounting, radiator cover bolts, you just check all the non-structural nots and bolts on the bike. Oh and I assume the petrol tank bolts arent loose..? I've checked all the nuts and bolts, removed the mudgaurd,horn and it made no difference. I'm rechecking everything as I go along.
• 
  
  One thing that's a cause for concern for me is that the front disc assembly has some vertical run out. If I spin the wheel I can see the hub around the rh oil seal at the axle moving up and down. Its only a couple of mm but it does seem to be off-centre. As the hub is part of the disc carrier assembly the whole disc on that side also has a small amount of vertical run out as well. The other disc and in fact the whole wheel seems to run true.
  
  I need to take the wheel out and have a good look but when I spin the wheel it seems to be free with only the very slightest ticking. Very odd.
  
  

[b1k3rdude]

• All seems fine although may be best to remove the fairing to check properly.
• I spin the wheel I can see the hub around the rh oil seal at the axle moving up and down.

• There is no nedas you can flex the arm down so the rubber is always pressign against the fairing.
• It is difficult to visualise what your describing, but I assume your talking about the front disc carrier that the disk is mounted to? Those are bolted to the wheel, so do not move at all. These usual have tight tolerances, even cheap EBC ones. So if your seeing the center hole of the carrier is out of center you need to stop riding the bike and get them replaced asap. Can you post photos of the item yoiur refering to and where the 'out of true' is..?

[NitramA]

• All seems fine although may be best to remove the fairing to check properly.
• I spin the wheel I can see the hub around the rh oil seal at the axle moving up and down.

• There is no nedas you can flex the arm down so the rubber is always pressign against the fairing.
• It is difficult to visualise what your describing, but I assume your talking about the front disc carrier that the disk is mounted to? Those are bolted to the wheel, so do not move at all. These usual have tight tolerances, even cheap EBC ones. So if your seeing the center hole of the carrier is out of center you need to stop riding the bike and get them replaced asap. Can you post photos of the item yoiur refering to and where the 'out of true' is..?

Yeah, I'll take a video and post it.


If I give an idea of the history of the bike I think it will help here.


Its a 2005 model that I bought the bike when it was 18 months old and hadn't been modified then (to the best of my knowledge) and has been left stock since.
It had 5k miles when I bought it and has 11k now ( I know, I know).
The discs are original, as are the brake pads.
That applies to everything else. The only thing that's been replaced are tyres and obviously oils and fluids.
It's been Ivanised.
The only other thing worth mentioning is that I was planning to have a look at the fork bushes about 2 years ago and failed miserably so had a bike shop have a look. They said all was OK and reassembled them and put new oil in there. That's the only unknown for me and as they were quite dismissive of me wanting to check the bearing surfaces they probably just put new oil in there. I'm going to have another look and replace the fork oil over the winter.




I've just checked the front wheel bearings and there is no play. The wheel rotates smoothly with no noise. I've had the wheel out and I can't discern any roughness. The only thing that surprised me was how the bearing resistance seemed a little more than I expected. I have to really stuff my index finger in there to be able to rotate it. Again there's no roughness just a little stiction. Certainly not like the worn bearings you see on Youtube.
The axle has very very light polishing at one bearing point but certainly no material removed, only the coating.


 I'm beginning to feel paranoid that I'm being paranoid.

[NitramA]

Video attached.
It looks like it's the thickness of the casting that varies rather than it running out of true.

[b1k3rdude]

Thats the wheel casting, not the the disc carrier. This would be countered via balancing when tryes are fited, nothing to see here.

[b1k3rdude]

• They were quite dismissive of me wanting to check the bearing surfaces they probably just put new oil in there. I'm going to have another look and replace the fork oil over the winter.
• The only thing that surprised me was how the bearing resistance seemed a little more than I expected.
• I'm beginning to feel paranoid that I'm being paranoid.

• Taking the forks apart isnt complicateds, you only need a few tool and a length of all thread with some nuts on to stop the catride spinning whrn you undue and tight the allen bollt at the bottom opf the tube). If you do this, get new oil seals and oil ( for the cost ots worth it)
• Your readding to much into it, there uis some resitance, from the bearing and the brake pads.
• You can only check and confirm and if your still getting it, take to a trusted mechanic.