Date: 25-04-24  Time: 00:19 am

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Topics - kebab19

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26
OMG here he goes again I hear you cry  :rollin

Fork springs, we all know FZS600s have a mushy front-end. Indeed, the springs seem to be set up for an eight stone rider, and anyone heavier can bottom them out under moderate to heavy braking. This offsets the advantage of those monster blue-spot calipers more than a little.
But why this setup on this bike? The forks contain dual-rate progressive springs to give the one-spring-suits-all-riders and helps with budgetary constraints of Japanese motorcycle suspension. The solution to this cost-cutting exercise is usually expensive for us; people order replacement springs from aftermarket manufacturers to compensate, from £60-120 (just look at Hyperpro's bargain kit prices on ebay).

But there is a cheaper way, as reducing the length of the fork spring makes it stiffer. Cheaper as in £0 (although you will have to replace or lengthen the hollow metal spacers inside the forks, say £10 for replacements).  If you're big-boned, cutting coils away means the spring can be set up much more closely to your weight and such adjustment allows jumping from the standard 0.7kg/mm rate up to 0.95kg/mm, therefore covering most riders weights.

There is a calculation that can be performed to estimate how many coils should be removed. Normally it's easy to work out for a linear spring, progressive springs are harder but hey, there's bound to be some braniacs out there who can provide the solution for our springs?

Calculation below:
http://www.strappe.com/spring_rate.html

And here's the application of it, admittedly on an SV650:
http://www.strappe.com/suspension.html#rate

Admittedly the mod requires longer fork spacers, an angle grinder, blowtorch and bravery. Chopping off the tightly-would coils reduces comfort, whereas attacking the other end has a stronger effect on the overall spring-rate. I guess it depends how you want the bike to feel (I've removed the comfort coils, although admittedly I have VFR750 springs inside my forks).

Discuss.  :lol   


EDIT: For anyone who thinks shortening fork springs doesn't make them stiffer, the following link addresses such concerns:
http://www.thumpertalk.com/topic/889824-shorteningcutting-front-fork-springs/


27
For Sale & Wanted / Anyone have some bent FZ6 forks?
« on: 25 June 2013, 02:00:22 pm »
Was wondering if any FZ6 owners had an old damaged fork leg? I'm really after the damper rod thats inside the lower stanchion.

I've been busy fitting Debrix emulators to my FZS600 forks & wondered if they would also be suitable for improving the FZ6's fork action ... would be a much cheaper option than R6 forks.

28
FZS600 Fazer / Debrix Emulators for FZS 600 forks
« on: 18 June 2013, 03:35:51 pm »
 I recently returned to the FZS600 after being on the 1000 for four years. Upon return I was struck (literally) by the poor damping characteristics of both front & rear suspension. Admittedly, on a bike with 42k on the clock & no signs indicating that the forks had ever been off to enjoy an oil change, I should not have been surprised.

Nonetheless, being a serial suspension modder, I decided that it was one area of these bikes that can ( and should) be easily improved. I started with the rear, fitting an recent R6 shock & aftermarket dogbones. This provided superb results for around £150-180.
http://foc-u.co.uk/index.php/topic,8167.0.html

Now to concentrate on the front-end. I had a set of 5SL R6 forks in the garage from my Fazer 1000 conversion   
 http://fazer1000.yuku.com/reply/23677/Re-R6-forks-nonUSD-for-Gen1#.UcBnQdhq-MI      but the electronic speedo setup of the FZS600 is prohibitive & machining surfaces of fork legs ruled this conversion out from being cheap & easy. So, that left modding the standard forks. The common route of adding Hagon progressive fork springs & heavier oil masks the inadequacies of the damper-rod fork setup, but usually result in an overly harsh ride in order to regain handling.

As a few of you may be aware, I had previously modded a pair of FZS600 forks with Race Tech’s Gold valve Emulators, along with a set of linear-rate fork springs from a TRX850:   
http://foc-u.co.uk/index.php/topic,71.0.html   
No point going into detail regarding the benefits of emulators here, there's plenty of info out there on the web regarding technical details.  Anyway....although the experiment was successful, unfortunately it was relatively expensive. Furthermore, from what I have gathered, there were four aspects that limited the mod’s potential in people's minds.

CONCERN
1)      The Race Tech (RT)  Gold Valves were expensive (£150)
2)      The appropriate linear-rate springs were expensive (£75-90)
3)       Fork surgery was necessary & drilling holes weakened the damper rods
4)       The mod was permanent

SOLUTIONS
1)      Since my fork mod I have noted that others have found a viable, cheap alternative to Race Tech’s product – emulators from Debrix: http://www.debrix.com/41mm-Fork-Damper-Valve-2000-up-Harley-FXST-Softail-p/24-0361-vt.htm    .Cynics rightly point out that they are cheap Taiwanese knock-offs that lack instructions and are made for Harley Davidson forks. However, some SV650 riders have fitted them, followed Race-Tech’s instructions and were surprised to find that when setup properly they worked just as well     http://www.svrider.com/forum/showthread.php?t=112643    . These Emulators / emus cost about £30 instead of RT’s £150.
2)      Although RT rightly point out that linear-rate springs work best with their emulators, a wide variety of hard-up riders (from Suzuki Burgman  http://burgmanusa.com/bkb/650+Race+Tech+Installation   to Kawa KLR 650  http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=126358    have run these emulators successfully with progressive rate springs fitted, usually the standard spring setup for budget bike forks. This means that the Debrix emu setup would still work very well with springs from Hagon, Wilbers or even the standard FZS fork springs. I’m currently running standard, progressive springs from a Honda VFR750 and it still works very well.  Admittedly, the FZS springs are too soft for the average sized European rider & an option here would be to shorten the fork springs, making the springs firmer, but that will be info for another thread....
3)      As per RT emus, it’s still necessary to drill out the compression holes in the fork damper rods.  Do a search on Google for failed damper rods after doing this mod right – I couldnt find any so I assume it's an absolute non-issue if done correctly.  I have realised, however, that the size of the holes do not have to be as large as I originally recommended. I have modded mine with variable-sized holes & the setup appears to be working just as well. Of additional interest is that the Debrix emus fit STRAIGHT on top of the FZS600’s damper rods, meaning that widening them with cutting stones (as per my original Gold Valve instructions) is no longer necessary.
4)      The mod is still permanent. Permanently better suspension, how awful! Still, at least this time round the cost of parts for modification is more like £50 instead of £250, so you won’t lose much should you sell the bike on.
 
Having fitted & used this modded suspension in anger, I can wholeheartedly vouch for these Debrix emulators as a very cheap & effective alternative to RT’s Gold Valves. I probably sound like I’m on commission from them, but again just thought that spreading this info might encourage some FZS owners to proactively improve their forks immeasurably. The main problem with the emus is the cost of postage from the US, effectively doubling it, but I noted that the SV650 owners resorted to group buys in order to minimise postage costs  http://forums.sv650.org/showthread.php?t=174548  http://forums.sv650.org/showthread.php?t=175607   . Indeed, I picked up my Debrix Emulators from one of them! This 'Group Buy' approach would undoubtedly also be the cheapest way for FZS owners to get these emus, but only if there is sufficient interest in such fork modding...... 

If there is enough demand, I will do another Debrix emulator installation thread with relevant pics, modifying it where necessary.

 

29
FZS600 Fazer / R6 rear shock on the FZS600
« on: 05 June 2013, 05:09:47 pm »
Credit to Luke / DevilsYam for original inspiration
Credit to DCurzon for his top-hat spacer idea

These shocks fit but with a bit of hassle.

The standard spring is too soft unless you're a featherweight 8 stone or less & don't think about a pillion! A re-spring is needed to be safe


Although some people have transplanted the Fazer FZS 1000's rear shock onto their 600 (and this is a step in the right direction), these R6 shocks are an improvement again as they have separate high & low speed compression adjusters (particularly useful for overcoming those jarring, sharp-edged bumps that litter our public roads)

Save yourself a lot of p1ssing around by REMOVING the suspension linkages to allow the shock to fit more easily! While they're out, give 'em a good greasing.

The model you're after (13S) is the same one that all the 1000 owners are after, as well as GS500 twin owners(!) (2008 onwards shocks, it must have the compression adjusters together, not separate).  That means you'll have to watch ebay like a hawk or just buy one off a 1000 owner. Still, much cheaper than the likes of Nitron's basic emulsion shock & actually offers more adjustment options.
At 293mm long from eye centre to centre, its nearly 10mm shorter than the standard shock, so need different dogbones. I went with multiple height plates listed frequently on ebay that allow four different options & chose the highest ride height (normally +40mm) which is still slightly lower than standard.

Luke / Devilyam's suggested settings,

"Setting the high/low compression damping at 4 clicks out from full hard on the high speed adjusting nut, and 16 clicks out from full hard on the low speed compression blue screw worked well for me, and my weight. Rebound damping i have set at 16 clicks out from full hard, and that worked well, also."








30
This popular mod makes gearchanges much easier & quicker on the old bus. Also included is an alloy gearchange rod which I have bent slightly in order to avoid it fouling the frame, so you can keep your original straight  ;) .

£20 inc postage


31
Touched on this briefly in another thread, but for anyone fond of pies, here's a fairly cheap mod to sort the front-end out a bit more.

The forks springs from the XJR1300 can be fitted inside the Fazer's forks, and as they support a bike over 20kg heavier they are better suited to heavier riders if transferred. I found a set that were Ohlins aftermarket springs, claiming to be a further 10-15% stronger than the standard XJR springs, so more suitable for heavier riders.

Instructions: no point in me re-inventing the wheel, so just follow 'Bigworm's instructions for opening up the front forks:
http://www.yamahafz1oa.com/bigworm1sforkupgrade.shtml
Reassembly of forks is obviously reverse order of these instructions once you've switched springs & spacers over.

You need to make two smaller spacers in order to fit the longer XJR springs, I used a metal tube from B&Q. Take your original spacer down there & find a metre of metal tubing that has the same dimensions. I *think* it was 10mm diameter tubing with 1mm wall thickness.  My Ohlins springs were 388mm long so the spacers were 24mm shown below. Note that other XJR springs may be a different length so you may need longer / shorter spacers to match!

 Difference in spring / spacer length between XJR & Fazer




New setup inside fork leg, note the spacer is far shorter than the original Fazer's spacer



I found the springs to be a good improvement over standard setup, after backing the preload adjusters right off to minimum. I also use much lighter 2.5w fork oil, which I feel also helps compliance over small square bumps.

Obviously other springs from 43mm forks may well be suitable (and not just from Yamaha's), so it's a case of cutting the spacers to size to equal the length of the original fazer spring / spacer setup.
 

32
For Sale & Wanted / R6 front-end for Gen 1 FZS1000
« on: 19 May 2013, 02:57:57 pm »
F****** recession & knock-on effect (lack of jobs) is forcing me to downsize from my 1000, so sadly restoring her back to standard setup before selling her on.
Anyway, this famous                            http://fazer1000.yuku.com/topic/4229/R6-forks-non-USD-for-Gen1#.UZjV-9hq-MI
front-end is now for sale.

Included are everything you need to swap the front-end over including:
2003 5SL forks refreshed with new seals & fork oil by Reactive Suspension
1.0kg/mm fork springs fitted from an Aprilia RSV4 (to cope with a bike 45kg heavier than the R6). Standard R6 springs also included if I can find them lurking in the garage
5SL front axle & fork pinch bolts
Wider custom wheel spacers to allow front brake calipers to be centralised (5SL R6 uses a different 5 spoke front wheel)
All the tiny brackets, nuts & bolts needed to make the Fazer's front mudguard fit (shown on build thread)

 inc postage, £175 ono

33
For Sale & Wanted / Nitron 'TRACK' Shock for Gen 1 FZS1000
« on: 09 May 2013, 03:46:05 pm »
Selling as probably downsizing Fazer in the near future so returning her back to standard  :'(

This is a Nitron 'Track' shock, their top of the range model for the Fazer, with the usual goodies - length adjustable, rebound adjustment & high & low speed compression damping.  These shocks are now considered top quality & reasonable value now that Ohlins prices have gone utterly bonkers. However they are normally £580 PLUS VAT, so although cheaper than Ohlins, still £700 new  :eek

Original thread when I first bought this shock here:
http://fazerowners.yuku.com/topic/29169/Nitron-rear-shock-with-highlow-speed-damping#.UYuwgErhb3E

I have since done about 5000 miles on it & so she should be good for that again easily before needing a Nitron overhaul. I am around 12.5 stone so spring suitable for a rider somewhere between 10-15 stone, with 10-14 being optimal. Don't think I need to mention how much it improves the handling; plenty of rider comments on both this site & the old Foccer site if you're unfamiliar.

Condition wise, very good apart from the obvious scrapes to the anodised preload ring as well as scrapes to the shock's spring  :( . Comes with preload adjustment spanner & original box.

Including P&P, £295 o.v.n.o.










34
FZS600 Fazer / Dogbones
« on: 04 March 2013, 08:22:31 pm »
What length are the early Fazer 600's shock linkage dogbones from centre to centre of boltholes? I have the 1000 and was wondering if they were the same length or different.

If not, dependant on length they could be used to raise or lower the back-end (or the 1000 dog-bones could instead be used on the 600?)

35
For Sale & Wanted / Gen1 1000 MRA Vario screen
« on: 29 November 2012, 03:40:52 pm »
Dark fairing screen with the multi-adjustable vane in VGC, no scratches.

£60 inc P&P, Paypal preferred.

Shown fitted to my bike:


36
For Sale & Wanted / Gen1 1000 Bagster Tank cover and expandable tank bag
« on: 28 November 2012, 11:43:40 am »
Tank cover has no marks and all clips working 100%
Cant find the bag model details anywhere but it has an internal rain cover & is zip-expandable to over 30 litres.

£100 inc P&P





37
Nowt to do with me, but looks like a bargain to be had for someone!

2 kits for sale

Item number: 190696071980

38
May consider splitting if serious interest.

Edit: Split and now gone








39
FZS600 Fazer / FZS600 front fork length
« on: 12 May 2012, 11:53:24 am »
Can anyone confirm the front fork length, from top of leg down to centre of spindle hole on lower stanchion (with no weight on forks) ?

Toying with future front-end mod  ;)

40
Fazer 1000/FZ1 corner / 200000 miles reached
« on: 03 March 2012, 07:35:12 pm »
I see Denise / 'FZ1girl' has finally made 'TwoHundredThou' on the original FZS engine. Nice to know the engine will probably outlive the chassis....guess she'll have to aim for 300000 miles now!


http://fz1grl.net/2012/02/200000-mile-fz1/

41
Fazer 1000/FZ1 corner / R6 forks (non USD) for Gen1
« on: 13 February 2012, 03:10:18 pm »
Another day, another fork conversion  :lol must update my avatar.....

http://fazer1000.yuku.com/topic/4229/R6-forks-non-USD-for-Gen1

42
As per the old messageboard, I fitted a modified ignition advancer which does give a bit more low-down grunt.

 I balanced the carbs yesterday after doing my valve clearances last week. Valves all set to mid-spec clearances.

Took the bike out for a decent spin today and encountered a lot more vibes than the standard setup, particularly around 4-6000rpm. It clears up from about 7000 upwards but I'm finding it quite irritating....the vibes through the bars are reminiscent of my old Bandit1200, which was part of the reason I got shot of it.

Anything worth trying to fix the problem? Think I read something years ago about adjusting the TPS to compensate......

(Ivan's Slip-on jetkit fitted and an aftermarket end-pipe with the baffle in)

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