sharing an experience

[fazersharp]

PTFE, wont compress enough, and if the threads are damaged it could be the straw the broke the camels back so to speak, it wont take the heat very well and start leaking. 

Not so- It Works as a deformable filler and thread lubricant, helping to seal the joint without hardening or making it more difficult to tighten, and instead making it easier to tighten.

 
Temperature Range: -450°F to +500°F (-268°C to +260°C). PTFE is completely stable up to +500˚F or +260˚C. Decomposition is slow up to 750°F or 400°C. Decomposition will occur on contact with open flames.

[darrsi]

also gnasher, your point about the weep will ineviably get worse is true, so i will look to permanently stop it up with some bonding agent etc once it gets to the point where it is worse.
your other point about properly draining so that you are removing as much old oil as possible is also a very good point , which is exactly why you need to get as much out as possible, i definitley got 3.5 litres of old oil out, which is what the manual says oil &  filetr 3.5 litres req .


however a dry engine following rebuild takes 4.2 litres.  this must mean then that you can never remove the remaining old  0.7 litres from any style of oil drain so there is always .7l of old oil kicking around in your engine stuck in places that it cannot drain back to the sump . no way to remove 100% of all oil without disembly.
i think 3.5 is the max you can get out and just as long as thats what you can get out , this pump method is equal to a conventional drian. you cant drain anymore out than you can pump out.

What manual are you reading?


It's a 2.5 litre sump, or I use 2.8 litres with a filter change as well.
My window is not see through any more so I have to use measurements.

[Gnasher]

Temperature Range: -450°F to +500°F (-268°C to +260°C). PTFE is completely stable up to +500˚F or +260˚C. Decomposition is slow up to 750°F or 400°C. Decomposition will occur on contact with open flames.

You crack on then mate, it's your choice, its you that's going to be sorting out the mess, when it comes to undoing it. [size=78%]  [/size]

[fazersharp]

Temperature Range: -450°F to +500°F (-268°C to +260°C). PTFE is completely stable up to +500˚F or +260˚C. Decomposition is slow up to 750°F or 400°C. Decomposition will occur on contact with open flames.

You crack on then mate, it's your choice, its you that's going to be sorting out the mess, when it comes to undoing it. [size=78%]  [/size]

What mess.

[Gnasher]

What mess.

Put some on your drain bolt, ride around for 8k change the oil and you'll find out 


Mate, the advice I freely offer here is based on years of working on bike both as an owner and as a business, if you don't want to take it that's your choice.   
[size=78%] [/size]

[fazersharp]

What mess.

Put some on your drain bolt, ride around for 8k change the oil and you'll find out 


Mate, the advice I freely offer here is based on years of working on bike both as an owner and as a business, if you don't want to take it that's your choice.   
[size=78%] [/size]

Yes I appreciate your experience and that is why I am asking. What do you mean by mess.   

[Gnasher]

Yes I appreciate your experience and that is why I am asking. What do you mean by mess.

As with everything there's PTFE and there's PTFE, it's main application is as a pipe seal white water, yellow gas, green for O2 and I think there's a few others for specific applications.  It's designed to fit and forget pretty much i.e. not being undone at regular intervals.

The most common is white, when used on sump bolts it turns into a stringy oil soaked mess, depending on how much is put on (most over do it) half is left in the sump thread, the reminder spread on the bolt or strings off it, as said a mess.  If you don't mind all that, happy days. 

The real point is if the sump blot is leaking something is wrong, my advice fix it properly, wrapping PTFE around it is a bodge, one which often doesn't work.     


 

[YamFazFan]

I see sump covers are no longer available new. I bet they're one of the first parts to run out, for the obvious reason.

[slappy]

Anybody wondering what different types of lubrication have on torque values have a look at this basic explanation 
https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&url=https://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/torque-lubrication-effects-d_1693.html%23:~:text%3DDry%2520bolt%2520torque%2520is%2520approximately,or%2520628%2520lbf%2520ft.%26text%3DIf%2520the%2520bolt%2520is%2520lubricated,is%2520reduced%2520with%2520approximately%252040%2525.%26text%3DNote%2520that%2520if%2520torque%2520specified,bolt%2520may%2520overload%2520and%2520break.&ved=2ahUKEwiTv97-sZPqAhWUiFwKHeNYAYoQFjABegQIDBAF&usg=AOvVaw0U0vHcct1pVWX9fOxrI1Dv&cshid=1592759213988


It does not matter whether the torque is 10lbs ft or 1000lbs ft, the true torque value will be affected. There is a reason why so many people strip the thread in their sumps or crack the sump.When people put the sump bolt back in, even if they have cleaned the thread on the bolt, there is still oil on the thread in the sump.

[darrsi]

Anybody wondering what different types of lubrication have on torque values have a look at this basic explanation 
https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&url=https://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/torque-lubrication-effects-d_1693.html%23:~:text%3DDry%2520bolt%2520torque%2520is%2520approximately,or%2520628%2520lbf%2520ft.%26text%3DIf%2520the%2520bolt%2520is%2520lubricated,is%2520reduced%2520with%2520approximately%252040%2525.%26text%3DNote%2520that%2520if%2520torque%2520specified,bolt%2520may%2520overload%2520and%2520break.&ved=2ahUKEwiTv97-sZPqAhWUiFwKHeNYAYoQFjABegQIDBAF&usg=AOvVaw0U0vHcct1pVWX9fOxrI1Dv&cshid=1592759213988


It does not matter whether the torque is 10lbs ft or 1000lbs ft, the true torque value will be affected. There is a reason why so many people strip the thread in their sumps or crack the sump.When people put the sump bolt back in, even if they have cleaned the thread on the bolt, there is still oil on the thread in the sump.

That's strange because there's another guide I've posted on here before that says engine oil is one of the few things that won't affect torque settings?


That aside I still think the main reason is just over tightening from being a bit over zealous due to people not being able to use a standard torque wrench on that bolt.


The wall of the sump plate is much longer than i realised after searching for a photo, and it shows that every thread of the OEM bolt gets used up.
Kind of strange why the newer magnetic ones were made half the size, and explains why they strip the fine threads too.


It does also explain that if a new OEM bolt was used it could highly likely solve the leaking as the deeper threads may still be intact.

[darrsi]

Anybody wondering what different types of lubrication have on torque values have a look at this basic explanation 
https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&url=https://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/torque-lubrication-effects-d_1693.html%23:~:text%3DDry%2520bolt%2520torque%2520is%2520approximately,or%2520628%2520lbf%2520ft.%26text%3DIf%2520the%2520bolt%2520is%2520lubricated,is%2520reduced%2520with%2520approximately%252040%2525.%26text%3DNote%2520that%2520if%2520torque%2520specified,bolt%2520may%2520overload%2520and%2520break.&ved=2ahUKEwiTv97-sZPqAhWUiFwKHeNYAYoQFjABegQIDBAF&usg=AOvVaw0U0vHcct1pVWX9fOxrI1Dv&cshid=1592759213988


It does not matter whether the torque is 10lbs ft or 1000lbs ft, the true torque value will be affected. There is a reason why so many people strip the thread in their sumps or crack the sump.When people put the sump bolt back in, even if they have cleaned the thread on the bolt, there is still oil on the thread in the sump.

This is what i found years ago.


http://benmlee.com/4Runner/threads.htm