I've only had it 300 miles, can't be sure i just missed it when I bought it is the problem there. I've read a few things here about resetting the cam tensioner, sometimes they get stuck but they can also be noisy when near the next notch, etc. Not sure if that's the sound it makes or if something else underlying? I tried the screwdriver to ear and does sound much louder in the cam chain location but also assume this would be normal given it is in the middle of the action. The more I focus on it the more it's coming from the top of the block rather than things around it, so valves, cam chain, etc.As the bike is new to me, I'm planning on changing out the filters, oil, check valve clearances, etc. While there was going to reset the tensioner, given the location easier while tank is off and can move the carbs out of the way. Honestly was considering a manual tensioner, I see some people swear by them. Is flushing common, I've always been put off by horror stories of causing more damage than good by it. But then it's done 5.5k miles since 2006 (600 since 2017) and thinking there could be some build up with all the start/stop.
Noted, it is running a bit rough, wonder how much noise would settle with that done. Was thinking of getting a carbtune, are they worth the extra to some of the cheaper ones around? I don't like to buy too cheap though, like my tools to last .
Matter of interest, why do you chose the fully synthetic when semi is spec'd? Quite happy to pay the extra if it treats the engine better.Regards riding style, I try not to be too much of a demon but sometimes it just wants to go.....it's not my main form of transport, when it comes out will be for an hour minimum so will be up to temperature and will involve a little spirited riding in dry conditions unless I get caught out.
Fazers love to rev if you don't rev them on a regular bases the tensioner doesn't get the prod it requires to move up a tooth. Just take it out find a dual carriageway or motorway, once warmed up let the engine rev to almost red line in the lower gears 2-3. It will sort out the tensioner issue, it may take a few goes but if the noise is the tensioner is will stop. Fazer don't have issues with their tensioner's, the auto is fine sometimes a reset or most often then not the above will sort it. From what your saying regarding the rough it could just need a nice balancing and a good run. As for oil quality semi is perfectly adequate, fully semi is IMHO a waste of money, it's your choice. Fazers are one of the most reliable bike ever made, most issues are down to owners and stearlers not servicing them correctly at the right time, or owners mucking about with them.
Can afford more frequent changes and the filters at the difference in cost between that and silkolene or similar which I was looking at. The fact it's your main transport is good test for it. I'll be changing spark plugs, filters and oil very soon as its a new bike to me so peace of mind, apparently was last serviced last year so an annual would be worthwhile imo. While I'm in there I will spray some carb cleaner through while running and reset the tensioner. See what it sounds like, then give it some 2-3 gear fun to clear once warmed up. May check valve clearances if feeling brave (not done that before but doesn't look too bad).Silencer needs replacing due to small leak I've discovered so that will be done shortly, good time then to balance the carbs I'm thinking.
Oil and filter, fuel filter and spark plugs all changed went with iridium and the Westway oil which seems good quality.
Was told when purchased that the guy serviced the bike last year, the state of the oil (bearing in mind the few miles it's done in last 4 years) and rusty spark plugs with grit on the threads made me think otherwise.
The noise hasn't disappeared but I believe is a lot clearer with the new oil. It doesn't seem to change with the revs or clutch in like most noise complaints appear to. When riding it's barely noticeable, likely due to other noises covering it. It's idle or low speed with clutch pulled to quieten the engine when it comes out. More of a rattle than a tapping now. Doesn't seem to be consistent with the engine timing, like something is loose but can't find anything external but will inspect further.
Assume the cam chain noise would disappear with revs so I'm tempted to rule that out.
Any ideas?
Quote from: FazedBr on 21 June 2020, 04:12:39 pmOil and filter, fuel filter and spark plugs all changed went with iridium and the Westway oil which seems good quality.I've never heard of them, quick look at their website and they would appear to be just disturbers and rebranders, not refiners i.e. they approach a refiner and repackage one of their range of products, a bit like supermarkets own brand. Supermakets don't make beans, soup, cornflakes even oil etc, what the do is repackage basic product and sell it cheaper. Oil is all made to a minimum standard e.g. API, JASO etc. What well know refiners Shell, Mobile, Fucus etc do is exceed those standards and add better additives. As long as the oil is made to a API etc it will do what it's supposed to, just. QuoteWas told when purchased that the guy serviced the bike last year, the state of the oil (bearing in mind the few miles it's done in last 4 years) and rusty spark plugs with grit on the threads made me think otherwise.Rusty plugs and grit in the plug wells is normal, obviously if there very rusty and the electrode is badly worn they've been in a good while. The electrode condition is far better guide as to the age of a plug than the outside. QuoteThe noise hasn't disappeared but I believe is a lot clearer with the new oil. It doesn't seem to change with the revs or clutch in like most noise complaints appear to. When riding it's barely noticeable, likely due to other noises covering it. It's idle or low speed with clutch pulled to quieten the engine when it comes out. More of a rattle than a tapping now. Doesn't seem to be consistent with the engine timing, like something is loose but can't find anything external but will inspect further.Carb inbalance and/or incorrect idle jet setting/s will give you very similar noises. QuoteAssume the cam chain noise would disappear with revs so I'm tempted to rule that out.If the cam chain is the issue the noise will increase as the revs rise. QuoteAny ideas?Wait until you've balanced the carbs and don't forget to reset the air mixture screws.
Thanks for the feedback. Early signs is the oil has had a positive difference as I'm sure most will, time will tell but happy with it for now. Darrsi has used it for some time so that's good credit. Overall the bike is running a lot better for the bits changed out. Was annoyed the exhaust didn't just bolt on and couldn't get the carb balance done on Saturday. They are so close, 43mm and 44.5mm which don't quite slip together. I'm hoping a 44.5mm straight coupler will do it with compression but may need to pad the smaller end with something heat proof.I'm writing off the cam chain for now, I'm hoping the carb sync solves it! Picked up a Carbtune and useful guide mentioned above so ready to go.
Thanks, came out a little small that . Forum newbie, what can I say.
So rather than picking holes in what i've found to be a perfectly good engine lubricant at a very good price for everyone, why not just accept it as being okay to use, even more so as it has been tried and tested for years by me? Believe me if i thought for one second there was anything wrong about it i would be the first to tell people to completely avoid it, but in this case it's the complete opposite.
Quote from: darrsi on 22 June 2020, 09:11:49 am So rather than picking holes in what i've found to be a perfectly good engine lubricant at a very good price for everyone, why not just accept it as being okay to use, even more so as it has been tried and tested for years by me? Believe me if i thought for one second there was anything wrong about it i would be the first to tell people to completely avoid it, but in this case it's the complete opposite. I'm not picking holes in anything fella, stating fact. I've not said don't use it, the opposite. As you've got the right to suggest particular oils, I and others have the right to suggest something else, you're being defensive for some reason and that's a matter for you. The oil mentioned is in spec and it will be just, that's why it cost less and yes it will do the a perfectly acceptable job. Higher quality oils will perform better, they don't generally discolour as fast, they drain out better and because they use better, extra and different additives they perform better, i.e. resist heat, carbonation, film and tear strength, etc etc. I think you said you use fully synth, if you use Westway fully synth 10w40 4T oil it's API SL rated and is the lowest (just) spec for that type of oil, I would recommend is SN, higher and later spec rating giving you better performance as outlined above. That doesn't mean SL is bad, it's not, but SN performs better. If you want use a particular oil that's cheaper because you regard value for money, over performance, that's your choice. It's the same with things like tyres, pads, chains etc etc, you buy to suit your budget and needs, as long as you happy, that's all that matters.