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Messages - BluprintZ
26
« on: 08 October 2013, 09:39:02 pm »
Cheers Dead Eye.
One thing i forgot to mention, it seems that the bike (2002) has had a set of 1999 carbs fitted at some point, why so?...i do not know!
G ; )
27
« on: 08 October 2013, 12:40:14 pm »
My mate picked the bike up from Kevs in his van the other day and took it to his workshop, because it was slashing down.
He has a tyre fitting machine and the new Bridgestones needed fitting.
He phoned me to let me know that when he removed the rear wheel, the rear pads fell in bits, so new front and rear pads were ordered and they have arrived today.
So all being well, i should be going over to pick the bike up tomorrow at some point.
Anyway, i got the info off Kev yesterday and for those of you who may be interested, here are the results.
Fault find: No 3 cylinder not sealing (valve seat rough). Remove head, grind in, clean and re-shim all 16 valves to correct clearances. New head gasket fitted.
As came in, leak rates were: 1 2 3 4.
4% 6% 35% 4%
After work, No 3 --------------------------6%
All bores tested by vac [Max on day 12" Hg] All same at 8" Hg now.
(Pump blocked)
No 3 plug had not been seated in head, or been changed for some time (rusty).
This caused hours of extra work to get new plug to seat down to bottom of thread. CR9E fitted with copper grease.
Coolant: This type of coolant was suspect, IE; unknown, so flushed and re-filled with with Good oat alloy maximum protection grade.
Valve clearances: Finished clearances and shims: 21/30.
EX.
164 - 170 - 172 - 169 - 166 - 170 - 168 - 170.
.29 - .22 - .22 - .22 - . 23 - .23 - .22 - .22.
11/20.
IN.
182 - 185 - 181 - 178 - 182 - 182 - 181 - 186.
.17 - .11 - .11 - .15 - .13 - .14 - .15 - .16.
New valve seals fitted.
New inlet rubbers fitted. All needed work to match head.
Work done with air grinder air tool.
Carbs stripped and cleaned, re-jetted to modified air box and high flow foam air filter.
This can be washed in warm soapy water each 4000 miles, dried and re-used.
Pilot at rest: 13.4 Air/fuel ratio.
30 mph: 13.5
50 mph: 13.6
70 mph: 13.6
77 mph: 13.7
90 mph: 13.7
110 mph: 13.4 *
130 mph: 13.1
150 mph: 12.8
* To obtain Max fuel economy, remove air corrector tube in airbox mouth.
Do NOT run over this speed(*) without the corrector.
It is safe to have the corrector in all the time if you wish.
Ignition:
1+4 2+3
15.11k sec. 14.80k
Coils ok.
Found to have distorted scope waveform (AC) while setting.
Also missfire at high speed.
This was cured with replacement Reg/Rec control box.
Note: Battery has one cell "bulge" due to this fault.
THE BILL!
Tune to suit + filter + jetting: £150.
Grind in all valves: £160.
Head gasket and post: £52.
Valve stem seals x 16: £40.
Shims (exchange) x 10: £40.
New coolant + flush: £8.
Reg/Rec cont box: £56.
Remove and replace head + clean: £80.
Match head to inlet rubbers: £20.
Fuel: £5.
Plugs x 4: £20.
TOTAL: £631.
EDIT:
Cam chain tensioner was found to have ball bearing at rear of spring.
This i thought was standard, however it would be unwise to remove this now without changing cam chain + spring, so re-fitted.
G ; )
28
« on: 02 October 2013, 02:27:27 pm »
The bike is ready to pick up today, so now i need to find someone to take me to get it.
Looking forward to getting it back.
G ; )
29
« on: 28 September 2013, 09:52:48 am »
Had a call from Kev and the bike is back together and he's had her up to 150mph on the rolling road, at the redline.
The problem now seems to be that he's getting two traces on the readings, there seems to be an interference between the charging and ignition systems, with a higher than normal DC reading.
His advice is to replace the regulator/rectifier and see if that cures the problem, although he can't guarantee that it will, the problem is intermittent.
The readings from the alternator appear to be ok, so the problem is further up the charging chain.
G ; )
30
« on: 17 September 2013, 11:21:33 pm »
Did he give any reasons as to why it got so bad? It must have been running very rich. Maybe get him to take a look at the carbs
He's already stripped and cleaned the carbs, he said they weren't too bad really. G ; )
31
« on: 17 September 2013, 11:29:38 am »
Dead eye/Dude.
The bike had been stood outside for at least six months, so he recons that damp air might possibly have made it's way into no3 cylinder, which probably had the valves in the open position, from when it was last run.
Also bear in mind, we are right by the sea here in Caernarfon, so the salt/damp air wouldn't have been helping matters.
I was led to believe on the forum somewhere, that the pre-injection models are prone to running a touch on the rich side?
The previous owner wasn't what i would call a serious biker, he only used it occasionally, so i doubt it got as much high speed riding as i gave it when i first got it, that also could explain the excessive carbon build-up?
Kev also mentioned that the two offside plugs were a begger to get out, although the other two weren't much better, the offside two were also very rusty on the outside, so maybe the fact it had been parked on the sidestand could have had something to do with that, i dunno.
Yes, it's been an expensive lesson, although we can also add two new Bridgestone tyres at £160, the inlet rubbers at £96 and the chain and sprocket kit at £89, so the actual cost will be getting on for nearly a grand, so all in all, the bike will stand me at around £2,500 by the time i get it back!!
We live and we learn eh?
G ; )
32
« on: 16 September 2013, 08:54:36 pm »
UPDATE:
I've been visiting family and friends up in Lancashire last week, including FOC member J_DUB, who i've known for a few years, was good to see you and the family John.
Anyway, whilst up yon, i got a call from Kev the Dyno man, asking me to pop in to his place when i get home, which i did last Friday afternoon.
The head was still off, because he wanted to show me what he had done to it, plus some pics he had taken from when he stripped it, (i'll get them off him and post them on here when i get the bike back, so that you can all gasp in amazement...or not!).
All of the valves were coked up badly, cylinder no3 was showing exhaust gas blowback into the inlet ports, which means the valves were sticking open, as he said, which explains the lack of compression on that cylinder.
There was also a largish pock mark on the valve seat (i forget which one) but he's ground all of the valves in and cleaned those and the piston crowns, which were also badly carboned up, the cylinder bores were ok.
The head gasket is being replaced (obviously) and new valve stem seals fitted, might as well do those while the head is off, they aren't that expensive.
By the time i ride the bike home, probably later on this week, the final bill will be around the £500 mark, i know it sounds a lot but he is one of the best and the bike will be 100%.
As i mentioned, i'll post the piccies and the Dyno sheet when i get them.
G ; )
33
« on: 07 September 2013, 10:45:26 am »
Just had a call from Kev the Dyno man, asking if i've put any kind of coolant in the system.
It appears that someone has put something in that doesn't look like any type of coolant that he's seen before.
He said it's light brown in colour, smells more like a releasing agent.
Deffinitely not oil leaking into the coolant.
G ; )
34
« on: 06 September 2013, 02:37:27 pm »
I hope you can get that sorted out George, you're not having a lot of luck with that bike at moment. 
I'm sure it will be fine once Kev has sorted it, i'll know by later on this afternoon John. Just one of those things mate, i was spoilt with the Monster and the Thruxton, so it was probably my turn to get one that needed a bit of work doing on it. I'll be up your way on Monday for a few days, so i'll give you a shout at some point. G ; )
35
« on: 05 September 2013, 07:31:17 pm »
Hope you can get it running again BluePrintZ...would be a shame to lose you from the forum so soon after you got here.
Nick and Christo: I have no intention of getting rid of the Fazer, although admittedly the initial news from Kev did cause a slight wave of depression, as it would. The guy is a genius and he said it highly unlikely to be terminal damage, at worse he feels it could be a bent valve but until i speak to him tomorrow, who knows? When he first gave me the news yesterday, i did mention that the bike went like split shat, his reply was "imagine what it will be like when you get it back sorted"!! So i'll keep everything crossed and hope for a favourable outcome. G ; )
36
« on: 05 September 2013, 11:49:02 am »
Well believe it or not, i've been stripping engines, gearboxes et al, on all sorts of vehicles since my early teens, i've owned a bike shop and a breakers over the years, so i'm no stranger to the infernal combustion engine and it's problems but to be honest, after a 12 year lay-off from bikes, so i could get my studio up and running, i only got back into bikes in 2008, when i bought a Ducati Monster 900, then a 2008 Triumph Thruxton 900, which to be honest, didn't really need much fettling in the time i had them, although i did completely strip the Monster and re-build it in 2009, that was in a mates very large workshop, which he doesn't have any more, as he's move away, which i thought was most inconsiderate.  . Kev, who owns the Dyno business, has a reputation spanning over 25 years for getting the best out of both road and race bikes and yes, of course i am capable of doing the work needed on my bike but the problem is the workload in the studio, plus somewhere to actually work on the bike. I could bring the head home and work on the valve grinding but it would be very intermittent. STOP PRESS: Kev has just phoned me to say he's removed the head, so i'll try and get over later on this afternoon and see what the damage is, mechanically, financially and more importantly... Physiologically!!  . I shall return! G ; )
37
« on: 05 September 2013, 09:57:49 am »
Well, as i stated in a previous post, the bike needed to go to the Dyno man to have the new inlet rubbers fitted and the bike to be set up.
So, yesterday dinner, i took it over and a mate brought me back home, Dyno man phoned me this morning to let me know that number three cylinder has no compression at all, in fact he can feel it coming back through the airbox and the silencer, it's that bad.
His suggestion is either to remove the head and check for bent valve stems and if they are ok, then grind all the valves in.....or, put it back together and stick it on ebay, not a nice thing to do but somebody did it to me, so hey-ho!
So at the moment, i'm waiting for him to get back to me later on this evening, he has other bikes in that the owners obviously want sorting but if one of them isn't too much in a rush, then he can do mine sooner.
If not, then it could be a few months before he an get round to stripping the head off it.
Of course, if i had a garage, then i would strip it myself but i haven't, so i'll just have to wait and see what he says this evening.
I sometimes wonder if it's all worth the bother, unfortunately it is, after 40+ years of biking, it isn't something you can just give up on, is it?
G ; )
38
« on: 01 September 2013, 12:52:42 am »
One of my dust seals is lifting and starting to rust slightly, i've already bought them, so i'll be replacing them while i'm fitting the new tyres, might as well whilst the front wheel is out.
I replaced the seals and dust covers on my Thruxton a few years ago, if you are replacing the seals as well, it isn't a difficult job as long as long as you make sure each fork is dismantled and re-assembled separately, so as not to get the parts mixed up.
I find it easier if when disassembling, the parts are laid out in the order they were removed, i use an old clean towel or similar.
G ; )
39
« on: 30 August 2013, 10:27:10 pm »
I've just got a BT23 for the front and a BT21 for the rear, been advised to run them at 33psi front and 36 rear, more tread on the road.
I'm around 12 stone.
G ; )
40
« on: 29 August 2013, 01:06:12 pm »
Update on my situation: Fitted new chain and sprockets, been for a few long, fast rides and the 12mm nut is still ok.
I've ordered a pair of new Bridgestone tyres and a set of carb - head inlet rubbers, then it's off to the dyno man to have everything set up properly.
I'll post the results of the dyno test when i get them.
G ; )
41
« on: 21 August 2013, 03:11:03 pm »
I suppose i'll contact Yamaha and see what sort of a response i get from them.
The thing that worries me at the mo', is that i've already tried to fix the problem, by buying and fitting the new 12mm nut, knowing that the O/S is damaged.
Yamaha could well say that i should have left it alone, once i removed the old nut and saw the damaged shaft, then contacted them about the freebie repair!
Anyway, i'll give them a shout and see what happens.
Thanks guys.
G ; )
42
« on: 21 August 2013, 12:09:40 am »
I agree the O/S thread looks bad but as i mentioned in my last post, i recon the fact that the torque wrench was clicking at 90 Nm, was probably because the new nut was cutting a thread into the shaft.
I do have access to a very good engineer/welder, although whether to go arc or mig, i will have to discuss with him.
To be honest, now that i have a new chain, sprockets and the 12mm nut on, i'm inclined to let him wend the nut on, as i few on here have done...i think?
I should get a few years out of the bike if i look after the chain but to say i'm rather gutted, is an understatement, i really was happy with the bike, until this shambles unfolded.
It's probably too late to go shouting at Yamaha for a new shaft to be fitted, although i might do, just to see if they will honour the fact that they have messed up with this issus.
Thanks for all the advice guys.
G ; (
43
« on: 20 August 2013, 06:19:50 pm »
Right then, the nut and tab-washer are fitted.....although, i took it to 70Nm and the torque wrench was clicking away.
The tab-washer and the sprocket were still very loose, so i took it to 90Nm and again, clickety click and the washer etc, were still rather loose.
So i thought sod it, keep going until the washer and sprocket were waggle free, which i did and folded the tab over and put everything back together again.
I'm assuming that the sprocket isn't supposed to be loose?, i'm thinking that the reason the torque wrench was clicking, was because the nut was threading the slightly damaged shaft and it was reaching the specified Nm due to this?
Oh well, time will tell i expect, i put threadlock on the shaft, it's got new chain and sprockets fitted, plus of course the new nut and washer, we'll see how things go.
It's gonna be a nervous ride, the next time i take her out.
G ; )
44
« on: 20 August 2013, 01:20:37 pm »
Ok guys, cheers for the info, i'll be gritting my teeth as i tighten it up, the shaft threads didn't look too clever really!
G ; )
45
« on: 20 August 2013, 11:59:11 am »
Just got the nut and tab washer, obviously it's the 12mm one but as in the pic above of the old 9mm one, there's a shoulder of about 3mm which i assume locates on the plastic bit on the original Yam sprocket, to quieten things down i believe?
So, my question to those of you who have had to replace the old nut with the new one, what do you consider the best torque setting, after of course adding threadlock to the shaft threads?
I would rather take advice from someone who has done this than rely on the Haynes book of lies, to be honest.
G ; )
46
« on: 20 August 2013, 11:17:38 am »
The scoring on the disc looks like the old pads have worn down to the metal at some point, before new ones were fitted (the previous owner?).
The cut marks on the tyre look a bit odd at well, as though something is catching on it.
When i removed the chain off mine last week, i noticed that one of the bolts holing the rear hugger on, was way too long and was about 3mm short of touching the rear sprocket bolts.
Might be worth checking if something similar is happening to your front tyre?
G ; )
47
« on: 20 August 2013, 10:54:38 am »
Got a phone call yesterday afternoon from the Yam dealers that i ordered the nut and washer from TEN DAYS AGO!!
They have posted it out and i should have it today, yippee!
Hopefully, the bike should be back on the road this afternoon.
G ; )
48
« on: 18 August 2013, 11:33:25 am »
When i replaced the fork seals on the Thruxton, i whittled the end of a piece of dowling i had left over from a previous job until it fitted snugly into the tube , then i lightly tapped it into the tube and that enabled me to release the allen bolt at the bottom of the slider.
G ; )
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