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Messages - PieEater
Pages: 1 ... 3 4 [5] 6 7 ... 44
101
« on: 05 November 2020, 04:24:28 pm »
I can vouch for Fuel, had mine 11 years and looks like new. I recently had to replace the hanger whilst I was on a road trip and customer service was great making sure I got one next day. I run mine without the baffle as it runs noticebaly better with the Ivans kit, I had the bike dyno'd with and without the baffle fitted and the charts show it makes more power without. Lifetime warranty, great spares availability and customer service, so they have my reccomendation 
102
« on: 27 September 2020, 10:22:35 am »
A friend of mine who was a FZS gen1 asked me if I replaced the automatic cam chain tensioner with a manual one and I said no. Is this a must? And why is that?
The issue that lead to some of us fitting manual tensioners was because there were some (very few) reports of the manual tensioners getting stuck and allowing the chain to jump the cog leading to catastrophic engine damage. I don't think there was ever any talk of the cam chain stretching so much that the automatic tensioner was unable to cope, but happy to be otherwise educated. 99.9% of owners will never have an issue, those of us glass half empty types concerned that we will inevitably be within the unlucky 0.1% fitted a manual tensioner just to feel that bit safer, but no it definately isn't a must.
103
« on: 14 September 2020, 07:20:55 pm »
"Our American cousins have some useful resources on their Fz1a Owners site - here" - link needs to be changed to http://www.fz1oa.com/ as they've changed their name.
105
« on: 19 August 2020, 05:15:53 pm »
Could one of these freed-con units just be installed into a helmet to act as a regular BT earpiece and mic..?
Can these be fitting to any helmet, if so what adhesive does it use..?
Also whats the volume like while wearing earplugs..?
That's what I bought it for, so I can hear phone Sat Nav instructions via BT. I got the Mrs to call me and I was able to pick up the call straight away by tapping the button on the unit, the volume was pretty loud but I wasn't having to contend with engine and wind noise at the time and you can adjust the volume on the fly anyhow, call quality was good at either end. You have a choice of mounting methods, either a clamp or self adhesive velcro, I chose the latter as the design of my lid didn't allow for the inside of the clamp without some modification to the liner seal which I wasn't happy to do. The glue on the velcro pads seems pretty strong and the actual unit isn't heavy so I don't foresee a problem. I won't actually use it as intended until I head up north this weekend so will feed back my findings on my return the following weekend as long as I remember (pm me if not).
106
« on: 18 August 2020, 09:09:48 pm »
What I can tell you is we bought a Freed Conn model T-com VB last October and it was on offer from Amazon for approx £60. Easy to install good sound quality and perfect for pillion communication or bike to bike when my good lady is on her own machine.
Just bought one myself from here - not used it in anger yet but seems fit for purpose and couldn't complain about the price.
107
« on: 15 August 2020, 05:00:28 pm »
Looking for some ride suggestions around The Wirral area / North Wales with a good mix of roads and scenery.
108
« on: 17 July 2020, 10:50:09 am »
I think you should just add this to the main Gen2 FAQ 
109
« on: 03 July 2020, 07:41:00 pm »
Well done for taking the bull by the horns and getting a Gen2 FAQ up, I know it's a bit of an effort but it's an invaluable resource for the comunity
110
« on: 03 July 2020, 04:29:11 pm »
Well done on getting it fixed , pretty epic journey from start to finish, thanks for sharing.
111
« on: 01 July 2020, 05:18:18 pm »
Hi Steve, I’d say that the 758’s are the most popular choice, and there are no issues with clearance, and I have mine pushed quite far forward. If you want to keep the original bar end weights, which are quite heavy (308grams) compared to aftermarket ones, you’ll need to get the bar ends threaded as the stock Fazer ones screw in. The thread required would be 16mm@ 16 threads per inch.
+1 on the above, getting the bars tapped out for the OEM weights is definately reccomended as they cut down considerably on vibration through the bars.
112
« on: 27 June 2020, 10:31:45 am »
Just to clear up a common misconception, pre-load isn't there to make the shock firmer or softer although it will have that effect. The primary use for pre-load is to set up the best effective working range of the spring by dialling out sag. Once sag has been sorted its compression damping that is the main adjustment to make the shock firmer or softer. 
113
« on: 18 June 2020, 09:10:28 pm »
I really can't say that I can tell any difference - pulls just as well low down as before, in fact maybe even better.
Just wan't to confirm - your bike without an EXUP runs better than your bike with a faulty EXUP !?! Rather than pay a couple of hunderd quid for the Black Widow / Sandy Spares downpipes you could probably have acheived the same thing by taking the faulty EXUP out of the collector box and put a blanking plate on it !!! I don't think everyones having different results I think everyones riding different bikes, some that are operating as intended and some that aren't.
114
« on: 17 June 2020, 06:39:35 pm »
@Billy - Sorry if I came over a bit strong, I appreciate you were just putting accross your experience but I couldn't reccomend anyone rides the GEN1 without a fully functioning Exup, it's not the same bike.
@Mike & Gaz - The Yamaha Service Manual and a load of other resources are available via the Downloads tab below the blue banner - Downloads > Manuals > Fazer 1000/FZ1 - it gets a bit convoluted from there as you have to copy and paste the Direct Link into a browser which should then allow you to select where you want the file to be downloded to.
115
« on: 16 June 2020, 10:06:48 pm »
I had no EXUP at all for a couple of years on my Gen 1, I just got used to it, just don't expect any power below 3K, it will pull away below that, but it is limp. Seizing open is a lot better than it seizing closed.
It sound's like you're saying - if it's broke don't fix it, it'll perform like shit at low revs, but don't worry as you won't know any better, there are two levels of shit performance you may be lucky enough to have a less shit experience !!! In terms of advice for a new owner I'm wandering how beneficial this is, did you get your EXUP fixed, would you reccomend getting the EXUP fixed or leaving it seized? Given that a major part of the appeal of these bikes is the ability to pull from low revs thanks to the EXUP (Ivans kit & 4 degree advancer also help) there is no way you're experiencing the bike as it was designed if you have a non functioning EXUP. If you got the bike cheap as a hack to faff around on then sure leave it as is and get your moneys worth but there are probably better options out there.
116
« on: 16 June 2020, 08:49:18 pm »
Because no Gen2 owners have had the time or motivation to make one  I'm not a gen2 owner, but would like a list of all the things that i need to be aware off before considering becoming one.
Sure - the poke wasn't directed at you but the Gen2 owners out there that could put something together, you're not the first to ask the question and won't be the last.
117
« on: 16 June 2020, 08:44:16 pm »
At best this unit will only stop you getting 7K Tacho error codes something you can probably acheive by just disconnecting the pully cables from the EXUP valve. If your EXUP valve is seized then no electrical gizmo is going to fix this for you, you'll need to address this through mechanical / manual means. You'll need to get the valve out of the collector box and soak it in parrafin / penetating fluid and try to work the seized components free over time. If the retaining bolts are seized then you'll need to drill them out or get a workshop to do this for you, replacing the bolts with stainless items is a good bet, check the FAQ for sizes. Maybe let us know where you are with the valve so we can better help ..............
118
« on: 16 June 2020, 07:33:17 pm »
Buggered if I can find the thread but there was one and a few of us upgraded the clock lights to LEDs which are just a straight swap-out, I replaced the white bulbs with blue LEDs which look really nice but if you're having problems with reading the clocks you may want to stick with white. The place we ordered them from was https://www.crazyleds.co.uk/ I've found my order and the part number was 1 x 12v T5 286 74 2xTop LED but I can't find these on their site now so you might have to contact them for the equivalent. I ordered 5 blues as I guess that's the number of white bulbs, 3 greens for the indicators and nuetral, and two reds one for the oil and one for the fuel as they didn't do an orange. Hope that helps. Edit:\ AHA Here you go - http://foc-u.co.uk/index.php?topic=20051 - Even has a full installation guide 
119
« on: 14 June 2020, 10:05:24 am »
Can I ask why there isn't one of these threads for the Gen2..? Because no Gen2 owners have had the time or motivation to make one
120
« on: 09 June 2020, 08:17:41 pm »
Out of curiosity, why don't you trust Hyperpro's choice of fork oil ? I'd have thought they were the best people to advise on what goes with their springs ?
I'm of the same opinion myself, they will have done enough R&D to understand what works best with their kits and wouldn't be reccomending anything that wouldn't give the best results for their customers. I can see that for linear springs a lighter oil might make sense to make them a bit plusher but progressives are already soft at the top of the stroke so lighter oil isn't really going to be of much benefit unless you're a lighter weight rider !?!
121
« on: 09 June 2020, 08:11:44 pm »
I've been pleased with MotoBatt - https://www.motorcyclepartswarehouse.co.uk/mbt14b4-motobatt-agm-motorcycle-battery-12v-13ah.html - just replaced my last one after ~6 years as I forgot to disconnect it over winter and it drained flat. I'm not a fan of trickle charging as I'm not convinced it's good for battery life just like not disconnectiung it over winter isn't  Had Varta and Yuasa previously but not convinced they are any better than Motobatt for considerably more money.
122
« on: 09 June 2020, 08:02:13 pm »
Sadly Luke (DevilsYam) is no longer with us so your options for a bolt in solution are limited. I would keep an eye on the members market as somethig may pop up there. You could explore getting the existing shock refurbished, regassed and resprung for your weight, this would make a noticable difference and shouldn't break the bank, you'd want to get reccomendations for suspension specialists that could do this for you first.
123
« on: 22 May 2020, 04:14:09 pm »
Really useful thanks, I've asked the Mods if this can be pinned as a sticky thread.
It would be useful to add the tools and service items (seals / bushes / oil) required as a primer at the top, if you have the time and inclination, just so someone starting out has a checklist to make sure they have everything they need.
124
« on: 07 May 2020, 10:39:01 am »
The external damper rod bolt passes through the bottom of the leg and screws directly into the damper rod, there is no nut inside the fork that it screws into. I think what Unfazed is referring to is a method to stop the damper rod assembly turning whilst undoing the bottom bolt, but he will need to clarify that.
125
« on: 07 May 2020, 12:25:53 am »
Sorry yes, stock fork oil is 5w not 10w as I thought
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