• You say brazing temps would be too high, how about silver soldering @450c? would the little cable survive that..?
• I wonder how hard it would be to source another inner with a nipple made from higher temp solder? and then put the grub screw nipple at the servo end..?
• Would the inner/complete cables from an FZR/YZF/R1 fit the FZS..? the idea being if the cables new are cheaper than the FZSs then its another option..

• I've sort of made a mess of it I know, I've seen a few methods for removing sheared bolts, such as welding a nut on, drilling with a left hand bit etc. but most of these won't work.
• Another thing I wanted to ask is are there any stronger bolts available that would better resist the heat from the exhaust?

• Take the headers of the bike and take them to a machine/engineering shop as the best way is to use an overhead drill to get the drill bit in the exact center oif the sheared bolt.
• Yes, titainium bolts, M6x10mm, cost about £3 each. Don't corrode or seize in.

• Do not start the bike, if you're not riding it. 99% of wear is from cold start.
• Starting it during the winter is the worst thing you can do to your bike.

ok, point's taken.

• if the bike was being ridden daily, it would be started every day and conversely the wear would be worse..? or is it because the bike is sitting for a time, some of the oil drains to the bottom..?
• As above if a bike is being ridden through winter would your statement still apply? or again are you saying this in the context of a cold engine thats been sat for a long time with the above oil drain but in addition the oild is more viscus etc..?

Hi, has anyone got a seat ,condition not important as i only really want the base to try some demon modifications or  wreck it completely so dont want to butcher a good one    Cheers.   John

er, which bike mista..?

Yesterday I got lectured at the local bike shop for not changing my oil often enough, the irony is I thought I was quite good at changing my oil.

The bike hasen't been used much since I bought it, been mostly using the bandit due to the crap weather. I do start it up at east once a month if not more and when the weather is nice enough I take it out for a spin.

The shop's argument is if the bike dosen't get used from one week/s to the next, condensation can build up and contaminate the oil etc.

• Do the cables go above or below the top engine mounting?
• I assume the metal loop is the one that two drain pipes fit through.

• If you mean the rear engine mounting, from memory they go above it, between it and the frame.
• I maybe wrong, I think there is a second loop on the opposite side to the drain pipes and the exup cables go through it etc.

Can anyone please describe the route please. 

Yup

With the petrol tank off> starting from the exup servo the cables from left to right> then flush along the right hand frame rail> then down the back of the right hand side of the airbox cover (the one with the 3 bolts> then down the back of the engine between it and the frame/swingarm> then through a small metal loop thats welded to the frame> then connect the ends of the cable to the exup valve pulley.

Take care to make sure through out the routing process not to cross over the cables, this will make the final connection to the pulley much less problematic.

http://www.cartestsoftware.com/fz1/lubricatecables.html

http://www.kappabikes.info/yamaha-fazer-1000/cable-routing.html

Looking for mint ohlins/ nitron etc.. rear shock for gen 1 fazer 1000

An alternative option which I can personally vouch for is a modded R6 shock from Devilsyam.

- http://foc-u.co.uk/index.php/topic,936.0.html

Well Mine appears intact, just quite oily. Should clean up with some WD40 I imagine.

I'll drop you a pm.

You never know, maybe one of you has one lying around.

What does it look like..? is it the round thing with pipes coming out it and it near oil filter? if so I might have one off a dead engine.

But wanna ask again the meter is not faulty right?

Its extremely unlikely and ignore what I said about the exup valve. Untill I read the following thread - http://foc-u.co.uk/index.php/topic,5928.0.html I was unaware that you could get more than onne diag code from the tacho.

So going by the aforementioned thread it would suggest the tank sensor is unplugged. I only know of one eletrcical lead that connects to the tank, and that under the rear left hand side and has a little 2pin green connector.

If your battery voltage is good (12.8V) (how old is your battery?), I wouldn't worry too much about it (unless it's causing a problem?). You say 10v "at certain points" and "within the clocks" - I'm guessing you're testing for voltages on the printed circuit board? PCB's tend to contain semi-conductors (inc internal voltage regulators), and can give readings that seem out of kilter with battery voltages (engine management units for example can use 5v and even 3.3v internally).

The battery is fine and in good cond.

To summarise, the first I noticed when I bought the bike (this is my 4th FZS1000) was that all the instruments lights, headlight and the indicators were all dimmer than I'm used to. I then popped the panels off and started measuring

• the battery
• sub-loom connector (left side of the f-fairing)
• headlights (connected and disconnected for comparison)
• instrument connector on sub-loom
• then each of the illumination bulbs in the clocks. (it was some of these that were showing 10v)

As I moved away from the battery I saw a volt drop which is normal, but a 2v+ drop is not, the biggest drop is in the sub-loom that connects the clocks & instruments etc.

One option is to buy a spare and swap it out first to see if the volt drop improves otherwise do a strip, clean & upgrade (of the 12v line/s) and see if the Vdrop improves before going down the route of creating a upgraded +12v by-pass circuit.
But before I do anything, I am to get a pro to tell me where he thinks the Vdrop/s are occurring and I will work from there.

Evening

Does anyone have the left and right switchgear an early FZS1000.

My 2005 is missing the headlight, hazard and flash switches and I want to put those functions back on my bike.

ta.