Just bought a tracer 9GT and become a 3 bike owner

Happy to say I still only have one bum albeit a big one

Not sure whether you've been told but the way to check for brakes binding is with wheel off the ground, actuate the brakes hard for approx 4 seconds release and immediately try to spin the wheel if they are binding there will momentarily be resistance. Best to have hold of the wheel before releasing the brake


I wouldn't and don't use red rubber because 1. it would attract crap to stick    2. according to my Yam dealer, too much can have a negative impact on the seals and should only be used sparingly to help initial installation and whether or not that is the case  3. the brake fluid lubricates the piston anyway.


Before removing the pads i push both pistons fully in then remove pads and clean the caliper with a tooth brush. put a spanner between the slot and then a wedge between the spanner and one of the pistons so that I can pump one piston out at a time to clean. 


Once cleaned if they are still binding a bleed may finish the job

Private conversation then 

Yes, I thought about that but the downsides on these sets are that you will probably never need 80% of those shims. Also, if you watch DeWoodys video, he basically needed a lot of the same shims and in the other video it was the same (the Hotcam set didn't have everything he needed because it only supplies three of the same).


Having now read everything (mostly forum discussions) I could find on this subject, my conclusion is this: My engine is not in immediate danger but basically all of my valves are on the tight side and could really use a re-shimming which could also improve performance and increase gas mileage.

Seems a lot of wasted time and effort if knowing some valves are out of tolerance, you're not going to reset them.  The way I see it is having the shim kit solves the problem of leaving it apart for any length of time on your drive. Also if as you say the kit only supplies 3 of each size well how lucky you've identified that only three of the valves are out.
As for probably never needing 80% of the kit, you have another option which is to take the bike to the shop pay them to make the adjustments for a small fortune more than the kit would cost you.

As I understand, the problem is the corrosion between mixed metals and not the loctite.

Fuel goes off very quickly these days,if you leave your bike with petrol in the system for more than a few weeks you're going to get trouble with any bike.

I've never had a problem, even after a year.  I must be the lucky one




Do the float bowls empty when engine's run with fuel tap turned off?

If you want to spend a few extra quid, they're ok, however I had one on my FZ6, but the rubber wore down over time.

When I replaced it with a stock version, there wasn't a noticeable change in the noise.

How many chains run on that sprocket for it to wear down?

Quote from: jonr1x on 10 December 2022, 06:34:55 pm

Thanks for all the replies, it's much appreciated. Tried starting the bike yesterday and she started then immediately cut out. Tested the battery off, running and after running for a while and it's ok. Later on same day tried starting her again and she started with a lot of revs. I'll look at the side stand switch and kill switch and try the starter motor too and the ignition barrel as that is getting a bit stiff and clunky. I'll also check the fuel tap and line under the tank. Again thanks a lot and hopefully I'll get it sorted.

Side stand switch can easily be "tested" by putting the bike on the centre stand instead and see if it still misbehaves with the side stand up.

use a screwdriver to push the pin out

Nice tea towel 

Quote from: Disorderlypunk on 11 November 2022, 06:07:52 pm

as darcy showed - it can e done - just remember it is all in the prep work- and if you need to pull the engine apart it will need done again as it will crack on mating surfaces
-- yes im back again as finally got a new laptop after the dog decided to knock a drink over the old one - really missing riding a fazer

That's Mr Darcy to you 

Did you mean to write That's Mr Darrsi to you

It was less of an issue on the Boxeye, but effects all the 600 and the FZ6Nut rarely fell off completely on the 98,99 models as they had a damper and plate in the sprocket cover which stopped it. Late 2000 to 2003 did not have this damper and plate.
All fazer 600 seats are interchangeable, but the later ones from 2000 to 2003 had more foam in the seat making it more comfortable

So is the added thickness on of the nut purely to prevent it coming fully off, it can still come undone?

Quote from: Slaninar on 22 October 2022, 11:27:45 am

I think left side makes more sense (most people get on-off bikes and horses from that side), but right is not too bad either, as long as one standard is set globally.

The British rode horses on the left, because it allowed the rider to wield a sword with their right hand. We exported this to the British Empire and many of those countries still follow our practice.

The Americans used the right hand side because, when they used wagons for transport, the driver would sit on the left such that, if two wagons were passing each other, the drivers could easily look down to their left and check the wheels weren't going to clash. Also they would sit on the left rear horse, because that meant that they could use the driving whip on the horses on the left or the right of the team without having to reach across.

Supposedly Europe drives on the right because Napoleon was left handed, so he made everyone else follow him after he conquered much of Europe, but there's no actual documentary proof of this.

The last European country to change from left to right was Iceland in 1968. These days it would be prohibitively expensive to change over a modern, industrialised country from left to right hand traffic.

Much cheaper to tape a pointy arrow to the windscreen (childhood memory)