Fazer Owners Club - Unofficial
Bikes, Hints'n'Tips => FZS600 Fazer => Topic started by: Domfzs on 24 September 2017, 08:49:06 pm
-
Posted elsewhere but pretty sure it was in the wrong place.....
Afternoon. Been lurking on here for years and always found the perfect solution to any problems I've had. Hoping I can get some pointers on something I'm struggling with. [/size]Firstly bike is a 98 fazer 600 34000 (http://foc-u.co.uk/tel:600 34000)[/color][/size] milesProblem started with clutch adjustment at lever being all the way out and bite point being hit and miss. Adjusted at sprocket cover - in until resistance 1/4 out and then re adjusted at lever. No difference to bite point.New cable fitted. Not Oem one. (Never again)! Helped a little but then got worse. Bite point is the same when cold and neutral selection fine when cold but as soon as engine heats up clutch drags, gear changes get a bit harder and without revving when stopped it would stall with no chance of getting neutral. So to try to sort I have replaced;clutch plates and oem springs (torqued properly)New oil and filterYamaha clutch cable Degreased and regreased the actuator thing that clutch cable attaches to Still have the same problem of once engine heats up the bite point moves and the clutch drags when stationary. Any ideas??? Thanks in advance Dom
-
I always swore never to use any clutch cable other than an OEM one, but tried one a few months back and it's been fine, although obviously an OEM one should really be the way to go, it's just that they're four times the cost.
Exactly what type of oil are you using?
-
Yeah that's why I went down the aftermarket cable route after finding out the cost of the one from Yamaha. Cable lasted around 1000 miles then snapped 5 minutes after changing the clutch. Luckily on the drive not while riding! Oil in there at the moment is silkolene 10/40.
-
Yeah that's why I went down the aftermarket cable route after finding out the cost of the one from Yamaha. Cable lasted around 1000 miles then snapped 5 minutes after changing the clutch. Luckily on the drive not while riding! Oil in there at the moment is silkolene 10/40.
Motorbike oil?
-
Yeah motorbike semi synth 10/40 silkolene
-
See if this sounds familiar at all?
http://foc-u.co.uk/index.php/topic,13507.html (http://foc-u.co.uk/index.php/topic,13507.html)
-
See if this sounds familiar at all?
[url]http://foc-u.co.uk/index.php/topic,13507.html[/url] ([url]http://foc-u.co.uk/index.php/topic,13507.html[/url])
That was a selector issue, it wouldn't cause the clutch to drag.
I vaguely recall seeing a previous thread about temperature-dependent take-up with the clutch lever, but can't recall what the outcome was... might have a search later.
-
See if this sounds familiar at all?
[url]http://foc-u.co.uk/index.php/topic,13507.html[/url] ([url]http://foc-u.co.uk/index.php/topic,13507.html[/url])
That was a selector issue, it wouldn't cause the clutch to drag.
I vaguely recall seeing a previous thread about temperature-dependent take-up with the clutch lever, but can't recall what the outcome was... might have a search later.
I was kind of clutching (no pun intended) at straws to be honest.
There's not many choices otherwise really though is there? It's either worn a clutch, knackered or badly adjusted cable or as I had once before on another bike the oil was wrong, I used car specific Magnatec oil which made changing gear very difficult if I remember correctly. I knew straight away something was wrong, and then noticed the words "not for motorcycles" on the can. Once I splashed the cash for more oil it all went okay again.
-
Had a search, but the one I'd half-remembered turned out to be the usual case of someone putting in heavy-duty springs. The other popular cause is down to improper adjustment of the cable and the actuator in the sprocket cover.
How worn was the actuator? I had to replace the bearings in mine… it's possible that might be giving you a variable take-up point if your balls aren't spherical.
There is probably a slight variation in take-up point as the bike goes from cold to hot. It looks, from the drawings as though the position of the clutch itself is fixed to the right hand side of the crank case. This means it'll move away from the pushrod slightly due to the difference in thermal expansion coefficients of aluminium alloy and steel. But, it will be 0.25 mm maximum which is still well within the range of pushrod movement available… otherwise we'd all have the same problem. :lol
-
i think fazer rider is on too something here
in the actuator is a ball which could be worn
also the actuator rod/push rod could be worn
33k isnt a lot but this depends on its life, as a commutor bike in a city will use its clutch 1000's if not millions of times more than someone living in the middle of nowhere and can easy do 20 miles without touching the clutch
i wouldnt normally jump to a conclusion like this but im lost otherwise
-
Seeing as everything else has been tried, how about replacing the sprocket cover?
https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_odkw=fzs+600+left+sprocket+cover&_osacat=0&_from=R40&_trksid=p2045573.m570.l1313.TR0.TRC0.H0.Xfzs+600+sprocket+cover.TRS0&_nkw=fzs+600+sprocket+cover&_sacat=0 (https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_odkw=fzs+600+left+sprocket+cover&_osacat=0&_from=R40&_trksid=p2045573.m570.l1313.TR0.TRC0.H0.Xfzs+600+sprocket+cover.TRS0&_nkw=fzs+600+sprocket+cover&_sacat=0)
-
anyone near southampton willing to go give him a hand and switch sprocket covers for an hour or two to see if it helps
(if the problem disappears or swaps bikes then you know the problem is that)
ive checked out the member map and there are few around - but if they read this its a different matter
-
Had a search, but the one I'd half-remembered turned out to be the usual case of someone putting in heavy-duty springs. The other popular cause is down to improper adjustment of the cable and the actuator in the sprocket cover.
How worn was the actuator? I had to replace the bearings in mine… it's possible that might be giving you a variable take-up point if your balls aren't spherical.
There is probably a slight variation in take-up point as the bike goes from cold to hot. It looks, from the drawings as though the position of the clutch itself is fixed to the right hand side of the crank case. This means it'll move away from the pushrod slightly due to the difference in thermal expansion coefficients of aluminium alloy and steel. But, it will be 0.25 mm maximum which is still well within the range of pushrod movement available… otherwise we'd all have the same problem. :lol
Mine certainly are not, well one is, but the other two aren't :eek