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Messages - PaulSmith
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451
« on: 13 June 2012, 02:40:41 pm »
Fair is fair - nowhere in the add do they make power claims.
If your Exup is as knackered as your wallet, then this is a viable alternative that will get you on the road and through an MOT. If you have the money for lots of dyno runs and tuning work, then you should probably be looking more towards £1000+ Akra full systems then £200 header replacements, so I don't see any reason to slag these guys off.
452
« on: 11 June 2012, 12:48:18 pm »
Nah... That is in the Z1000 or Tuono camp, naked nutter bikes. The only real competition I see is something like the multistrada.
454
« on: 06 June 2012, 12:12:39 pm »
A rachet with various extenders and universal joints will help. Remember to be very gentle as anything you have to force, you are doing wrong.
455
« on: 31 May 2012, 05:38:43 pm »
My mini kit is two 10s, a 12, a small set of allen keys, a stubby flat head, and a stubby pozi, small (bent nose) pliers. A roll of electrical tape, a stanley knife, a couple of pairs of disposable gloves and a collection of zip ties. All wraped in a shammy leather.
456
« on: 31 May 2012, 05:30:02 pm »
Thanks for the offer of help, but I have it sorted now.
Haynes manual, multimeter and two paper clips.
457
« on: 29 May 2012, 06:04:33 pm »
I lost the alarm fob for a laserline 862 while on a ride on Sunday. Naturally it was my only fob and now I cant deactivate the immobiliser. I got the bike recovered my home and I do not realy want to pay €100+ to someone else to sort it for me. I am fairly decent at DIY including basic electrics so I would really appreciate any hints and tips.
458
« on: 25 May 2012, 04:45:23 pm »
Before you start looking for expensive problems, check some of the cheap ones first. I have never found a Yamaha that liked being nudged into neutral before stopping, so check to see if you are finding it difficult at stand still and only then try to change it. If neutral is hard to find when stopped, then check your oil levels, chain tension and the adjustment in the gear change lever. And also check how well your riding boots fit. Don't laugh, I had a mate who swore blind his gearbox was fuced when no else else could find a problem. Turned out he was wearing size 11 boots on size 9 feet because "they were on sale at the time..."
459
« on: 02 May 2012, 11:11:03 pm »
Another vote for 023's
460
« on: 02 May 2012, 11:05:54 pm »
It is not the price of the parts that bothers me, it is taking the piss with P&P. £20 delivery might not seem much on a £200 order, but it is rediculous for a £5 part.
461
« on: 02 May 2012, 01:16:03 pm »
I am looking for replacement bolts for the rear caliper. AJSuttons at http://www.yamahamotorcyclespares.co.uk/spares/modelImage.asp?modelID=9023 can get them at £6 per bolt. Expensive, but they are specialist parts. OK, I can live with that, but then they want £19.52 for courier or £13.80 Royal Mail. WTF! Does anyone know somewhere else I can get parts for the Fazer.
462
« on: 20 April 2012, 02:51:11 pm »
463
« on: 17 April 2012, 02:33:30 pm »
I man, I envy you!
Unless you have business in Fresno, would you consider from Death Vally, joining 395 North to Mono lake and then going through Yosemite on your way to San Fransisco?
464
« on: 17 April 2012, 02:13:40 pm »
Bludclot makes a good point (again).
I had a slight warp on the disk, caused one pad to wear much faster then the other. Fixed with a second hand disk (and new OEM bolts) and new pads.
465
« on: 14 April 2012, 11:55:35 am »
Knew as soon as i saw the title that you would be on 21's. I am now on my 3rd set on my Fazer 1000, love the handling and usually get 5000 miles from a set, they are the only tyres i have had where the front and rear wear at the same rate, cant say that bothers me though. the handling goes off rapidly afer about 4500 though, going to try something different next, probably Maxxis as i retire soon and will be looking for the budget option, been spending my heating allowance on tires for the last couple of years.
Consider changeing up to 023's. I used 021's and loved them. I now get the feel I always loved with better grip and longer life, and no nasty fade off at 4,500 miles! I am on nearly 7,000 and getting close to the wear markers, and they still feel great.
466
« on: 11 April 2012, 12:38:38 pm »
...any tea leaf would have shock as my home made cross bow can rigged to fire at them when they open the door ! ...
Are you mental? So not only do they get your bike, they get your house, your car, your savings, and you can be pretty sure that they wont be the one doing time but you might not be so lucky!
467
« on: 10 April 2012, 04:44:51 pm »
Adjust your cables full tight then half turn loose. If it still rattles a bit after that then you can relax knowing you have done everything you can.
468
« on: 05 April 2012, 04:24:36 pm »
469
« on: 02 April 2012, 12:54:28 pm »
Impact driver did the job! Threads were damaged but not destroyed and I was able to clean them up with a tapper. New disc mounted with new bolts and fresh threadlock and now all is good in the world.
470
« on: 30 March 2012, 01:03:08 pm »
Hah! I never even thought of an impact driver! Thanks a million.
471
« on: 30 March 2012, 01:00:35 pm »
...
I have BT021's on my Gen2 and they have been "ok", ...
... but the 021's have put me off a bit 
The 021's have not been made for quite a few years now so your tyres were probably well past their best even before they went on your bike. My own experience with 023's is that they are considerably better then 021's were in all areas (grip, wet and wear) and since I was delighted with 021's to start with, I now find it very hard to take the chance and try anything else.
472
« on: 30 March 2012, 12:06:33 pm »
...
However a more pressing issue I've chewed up the allen key bolts on the rear disc stripping the wheels down to be sprayed
...
Having stripped the head, how did you then free the bolt. I have one bolt that looks like it is going to give me trouble and I want to be prepared before I start that job.
473
« on: 20 December 2011, 12:36:48 pm »
Please do not use car oil of any sort in a motor cycle engine. There is a difference, but as I am not a chemist I cant clearly explain the difference. I have used only good quality engine oil on my bikes for the past 50 years and have never had a mechanical issue that you could put down to lubrication problems. Be careful. Have a good Xmas. Ask Santa for some expensive oil.
The only difference (assuming they both conform to the same SAE standards, and do not have friction modifiers) is that one charges a premium for putting the word "motorcycle" on the packaging.
474
« on: 07 December 2011, 02:16:38 pm »
You seem remarkably happy about a gear change linkage or have I missed something?
475
« on: 29 November 2011, 04:22:17 pm »
Nothing old skool about the looks of your bike, very highly tricked up I would said.
Ok, so do you want 'that sort' of look, or that 'exact' look. If 'exact' is important, consider big bore or nitrous, but if it is just that sort of look, and you are on a budget, you could consider a street fighter R6? Or you could buy a Gen1
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