The 'biting point' in the fazers' clutch with standard levers, which is within our range of adjustment is limited by the amount of free play in the lever. I.E. no play, instant bite. More play, a later bite & closer to the barsIn the case of the OP if he loosens the cable the bite will be closer to the bars & hence a later bite.Adjustable levers will not alter the cable travel but because the levers can be set closer to the bars the stretch is less, the bite closer to the bars so most prefer it, including myself.Whenever I've replaced clutch cables I've always taken out just enough slack at the clutch end to allow a final adjustment (i.e. minor tweaking) at the lever to achieve a little free play.I am however, interested in learning in this case, how shortening the length of a cable can have a different effect depending upon which end is adjusted.Yeah, yeah, I most of you know this but sometimes ya gotta say it
Quote from: DekF on 14 March 2017, 11:12:07 pmThe 'biting point' in the fazers' clutch with standard levers, which is within our range of adjustment is limited by the amount of free play in the lever. I.E. no play, instant bite. More play, a later bite & closer to the barsIn the case of the OP if he loosens the cable the bite will be closer to the bars & hence a later bite.Adjustable levers will not alter the cable travel but because the levers can be set closer to the bars the stretch is less, the bite closer to the bars so most prefer it, including myself.Whenever I've replaced clutch cables I've always taken out just enough slack at the clutch end to allow a final adjustment (i.e. minor tweaking) at the lever to achieve a little free play.I am however, interested in learning in this case, how shortening the length of a cable can have a different effect depending upon which end is adjusted.Yeah, yeah, I most of you know this but sometimes ya gotta say it
Quote from: tommyardin on 30 April 2017, 12:14:25 amQuote from: DekF on 14 March 2017, 11:12:07 pmThe 'biting point' in the fazers' clutch with standard levers, which is within our range of adjustment is limited by the amount of free play in the lever. I.E. no play, instant bite. More play, a later bite & closer to the barsIn the case of the OP if he loosens the cable the bite will be closer to the bars & hence a later bite.Adjustable levers will not alter the cable travel but because the levers can be set closer to the bars the stretch is less, the bite closer to the bars so most prefer it, including myself.Whenever I've replaced clutch cables I've always taken out just enough slack at the clutch end to allow a final adjustment (i.e. minor tweaking) at the lever to achieve a little free play.I am however, interested in learning in this case, how shortening the length of a cable can have a different effect depending upon which end is adjusted.Yeah, yeah, I most of you know this but sometimes ya gotta say it Thanks for getting back to me Tommy. I read that through, but am a little worried that my ill informed twiddling may leave the clutch slightly engaged. That's why I was after a1 - wind in / out the cable adjuster???2 - tighten / loosen the bottom end ??3 - check bite etc.4 - if not correct, do this..... etcIf I move the adjuster near the lever, will there be an effect elsewhere?Will I then have to compensate at the clutch end?I know it seems an easy job, reading your summary, but I don't want to damage anything.Thanks though
I've just replaced my clutch cable as it was getting stiff despite fairly regular lubrication and here's what I did to get it adjusted. Wind the lever adjuster all the way in and take up all of the slack at the clutch end apart from enough to give you about 2mm of travel at the lever pivot. Take the bike for a ride and wind out the lever adjuster so you get the bite point where you want it and make sure you have no clutch slip when the power kicks in. After doing that I saw where the clutch actuation lever was positioned and how much slack I had in the cable, wound the lever adjuster back and used the clutch mount adjuster so I had it closer to where it needed to be and it's been spot on. Don't forget that there's actually a third adjustment point halfway along the cable under the left hand upper frame rail similar to the exup cable adjusters which you can use to adjust the slack if you'd rather leave the clutch mount bolts in place. That's what I did and it worked for me, others will doubtless have their own methods.
I have virtually no play in the lever at all, so not sure the adjustables would help