Rear brake seals and Tight Valves

[humbucker88]

Does the rear brake caliper need to be split in half in order to change the seals/get the pistons out? I don't have access to compressed air so it's a tad annoying. Also...I recently checked my valves, one of the intakes is 0.07mm, instead of the recommended 0.11-0.20, is this a big deal? don't make me do the timing chain again!!!

EDIT: Third quick question, if one of my carbs is coated in oil/crud, what could this indicate?

[limax2]

The official line is that you should not split the brake caliper into two halves. There is a rubber seal between the two halves and Yamaha do not supply a replacement.
If that inlet valve clearance of 0.07mm  is correct then it is well below what it should be and I would bite the bullet and put it right. It would be worse if it was the exhaust that was tight be still not good.
One of the carbs coated in oil/crud could be a small oil leak after previous work or maybe a leaking carb. Give it all a good clean and then see if you can spot where it is coming from.

[humbucker88]

I'll sort the valve clearance then i think, I've currently got the carbs out to clean them top to bottom anyway so i'll mop up the outside too, not nearly as bed as I thought it would be as they don't need seperating, phew!

[Gnasher]

The caliper is easily split in most cases, Yam dont do a replacement seal however Suzuki do....... you need the same part from the GS500 rear caliper it's smaller but fits.

I would remeasure the clearance as it very easy to get a wrong measurement and that sounds very tight too me.  I've checked 100's of Fazer motors over the years most dont ever go out of spec even after very high mileages, in my experience if they are going to go the go sooner rather than later.
     

[humbucker88]

I've double checked, all valves are in spec apart from one intake valve on cylinder 3. The bike is burning coolant and pressure from cylinder 3 is getting into the cooling system. The spark plug on cylinder 3 was also rusted, it's carb was coated in oil on the outside, and the float chamber had brown powder on the inside but nothing is rusted. I've replaced the head gasket and cleaned the carbs, if the bike still burns coolant I'm assuming I need a new head?