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Messages - clayt74
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351
« on: 18 May 2012, 02:05:10 pm »
does anyone know where i can get the "fazer" decals for the front cowling?
for some reason my bike doesnt have them (and looks as if it never did?) I think the front looks a bit to plain without them.
any info appreciated.
Cheers
352
« on: 18 May 2012, 11:03:05 am »
did you agree a sale with Andy???
if not i will definately take it off your hands, will need you to post it to me though.
Cheers
353
« on: 18 May 2012, 10:08:32 am »
354
« on: 18 May 2012, 08:39:45 am »
i phone all the way mate the only people who dont rate them are those who dont have one  iv never met anyone who has one who doesent think its the dogs danglys (i think a lot of it is the anti apple brigade)
Arrogant customer support (remember when the reception was shite and Apple said you were all holding the phone incorrectly?) Apple also routinely under-spec the phones because they know the sheep will buy a shed load more of the newer versions (what! they do that with iPad too? NOOO!), no scope for external memory expansion, everything has to go through iTunes, picky about the sound/video formats it will play, overpriced.....
Other than that, iPhone all the way
I agree iphones just impose unnessesary limitations and expense for a product that should be so much better. Android is definately the future and as open source and future expandability will seriously give apple a good kicking in the next few years (especially cos of their loss of steve job). I have just pre ordered the galaxy S3 the specs are spanking  cant wait till the end of the month to take delivery
355
« on: 18 May 2012, 08:19:06 am »
I just bungee strap my tool box on the rear seat, its just enough to almost pivot the bike on the center stand, makes it very easy to check front a rear with almost no effort 
356
« on: 17 May 2012, 03:49:56 pm »
had a few, a caberg, agv, animal motorcross one, an fm, and currently got a carbon fibre marushin, which is really comfortable and quiet, and bloomin light!
got a mirror visor as i just cant ride in clear. hate them.
got my misses on of those for when she's on the back!!! they are so light its amazing, and best thing is it saves her from keep headbutting me and saves her from neckache. a great buy
357
« on: 17 May 2012, 08:26:30 am »
I've been looking at the drawings some more and concluded the following about the neutral lamp.
1, The lamp has +12V with the main switch "ON"
2, The lamp illuminates when in neutral via a diode when the neutral switch connects the lamp to -12V (earth)
3, The neutral switch also when in neutral connects the ignitor unit to -12V and also the Starting circuit cut-off relay.
So if the engine starts without pulling the clutch then I would think the neutral switch is ok, BUT a slight earth fault caused by the dreaded water or damaged cable might cause the lamp to glow.
Also the manual states that the neutral switch is sealed with an "O" ring but shows that the connection can be removed without removing the switch.
You say that the neutral lamp goes out when the side stand is "Down" this could be due to a diode failure as looking at the drawings the neutral switch and the side stand switch both go to the starting circuit cut off relay via diodes to stop back feeding. As far as I can tell the diode unit is a small block under the tank below the coils but above the carbs.
I hope some of this helps as I'm just going on what's in the manual and I've not seen any of these parts first hand so to speak.
Best of luck Andy
I have to agree with Andy about the diodes. it does appear your neutral switch is working correctly and the fact that with stand down the lamp goes out and when stand is up lamp is dim does indicate a parallel path, the diodes are there to block that path. from what i can see the diodes are part of the "starting circuit cut off relay" item 31 on this drawing. good luck
358
« on: 16 May 2012, 05:29:58 pm »
assuming that its not the actual neutral switch that is stuck closed. then unfortunately it is probably an earthing fault that could be almost any where within the loom.
good luck mate
359
« on: 16 May 2012, 03:50:22 pm »
no it wont, side stand switch will cut engine when in gear, regardless of clutch.
360
« on: 14 May 2012, 02:40:13 pm »
361
« on: 14 May 2012, 08:49:09 am »
Quick pop quiz for a Monday mornin, one question that was posed was "you arrive at the scene of an RTC, 2 people involved, one screeming at the top of their lungs, the other laying on the ground, silent, who do you go to first?"
thats an easy one ( i think) surely it has to be the one silent laying on the ground, they could well still be alive and not breathing needing immediate attention. the other although possibly in a lot of pain, or possibly just hysterical has no immediate life threatening signs. thats my rationale?
362
« on: 11 May 2012, 08:22:54 am »
I have just purchased and fitted the motad pipes and collector unit to my 2002 FZS600 and I am very pleased with them!!!
I gave them a good check over before fitting them and was impressed with the finish and the quality of the welds and very impressed with how well they fitted straight to the bike, no wrestling or poor alignment issues at all.
and Motad give the stainless steel a 10 year warranty!!!!!
with service such as dryrob has experianced i wouldnt recommend anything else other than Motad
363
« on: 09 May 2012, 03:44:51 pm »
Dont worry your daughter comes first , i wouldnt have stopped too if i had my daughter with me
absolutley agree, if he was able to talk on the phone, and you definately wasnt 1st on scene, there wwas nothing you could do other than cause your daughter undue fear. in my book you asessed the situation and took the correct action. go easy on yourself mate
364
« on: 09 May 2012, 09:03:54 am »
those one are R&G, they certainly were not the cheapest, i think i paid about £60 delivered. they were the very first thing i added to the bike cos i have to push it out quite an awkward space each morning and was paranoid of dropping it without even getting out to the road  . I had read some people saying that the cheaper bungs can cause more damage than good by causing the frame to twist??? I chose the R&G cos the have machined blocks that spread across both engine mounting bolts and fit solid against the frame (IMO spreading any impact across the strongest point of frame/engine) they came with all fixings and in principle are easy to just bolt on, but i had slight alignment problems and a couple of the bolts need slight persuasion.
365
« on: 08 May 2012, 08:37:58 am »
sorry, here are some pics
366
« on: 05 May 2012, 06:48:59 pm »
thanks guys, i got lucky after nearly 2 weeks of spraying WD40 (cos the gaskets didnt arrive on time) the header nuts came off no problem at all, the hardest part of the job was separating the silencer from the collector. so i have now successfully managed to fit some nice shiney motads to my precious [size=78%] [/size]
367
« on: 03 May 2012, 03:36:31 pm »
I got myself a rep n air kit, http://www.biketrade.co.uk/motorcycle-accessories/motrax_motorcycle_products/puncture_repair_kit.html after getting a puncture in a brand new rear tyre (less than 300 miles). i think i got lucky by the fact it was caused by a screw i picked up aprox 1/2 mile from home on a friday and I didnt even realise till i went to clean the bike on saturday that it was completley flat. the screw was still in the tyre and dead center, so i pumped it up checked pressure waited 10mins and re checked pressure then rode it 1/2 mile to local garage who was happy to plug it for me. being caught out or stranded by a bloody puncture would be a nightmare  , so atleast now i hopefully have the means to repair it (although i dont know anyone thats ever actually used one before)
368
« on: 03 May 2012, 08:55:12 am »
there is no problem in mixing the two types, which one you choose to use will depend on where your reservior is situated (is it close to a constant heat source) and whether or not you intend to use the bike all year round or just summer?
basicaly the red oil is recommended for ambient temps between 20 - 40C
blue is recommended for ambients between 0 -20C
which ever one you choose the flow rate will still need adjusting through out the year.
blue is the standard oil recommended for UK use, and i use it all year round.
hope that helps
369
« on: 30 April 2012, 08:43:48 am »
I swear by Nixwax Techwash followed by the Nikwax TX wash in stuff.
Keeps it all tip top for a good few months, I tend to wash and re-proof my textiles every September/October just in time for the winter commute.
Yep definately agree with above; the real secret to keeping the proofing is never actually wash it with normal washing powder/ detergent. always wash with nikwax techwash, that itself will revive proofing on most newish items. if the items are a bit older or winter is due then follow up the tecwash with TX wash-in and that will actually reproof them. my frank thomas jacket is still going strong after 2 years of all year commute riding
370
« on: 27 April 2012, 11:13:15 am »
thanks for the tips, i shall make sure i have a blow torch and plenty of patience at the ready.
Cheers
371
« on: 26 April 2012, 01:40:08 pm »
Hi all, Ive got to try and replace my original downpipes at the weekend for some nice shiny motad ones, i have been spraying the header bolts with plus gas all week to hopefully ease the chances of stripping or snapping studs  anyway my question is; is it necessary or advisable to remove the radiator before trying to remove the downpipes?? or should it be simple enough just using extension bars? any advice greatfully recieved. Cheers
372
« on: 25 April 2012, 06:51:24 pm »
Looked like the (remains) of a fuse to me - some of the on board ones look like a diode (and in some cheap kit they use a forward biased diode)
Bet you anything the regulator (3 legged thing next to it) is short.
its definitely a TVS diode! and it is there to protect the internal circuits from external voltage spikes. the TVS diode is rated at 600W approx 50A at 12V. if the regulator had gone short the fuse in the EXTERNAL 12V supply would have blown (and poss the |Reg burnt out in the process) the TVS has burnt due to too much EXTERNAL voltage applied. check the external 12v supply is indeed still 12v. then solder in a new 23p TVS diode and all is good!!!! good luck
373
« on: 24 April 2012, 08:41:29 am »
The 6KE series is a type of diode know as TVS (transient Voltage Surpressor) it protects the regulator and other sensitive circuits from high input voltage spikes. (the type of spikes normally of very short duration caused by high current switching or lightning strikes) these diodes are designed to dissipate these spikes as heat, as yours is so badly burnt i would have to assume that what ever power supply you connected to is wrong or faulty. it looks like a much higher supply than 12V has been applied to it. RS sell the diodes here http://uk.rs-online.com/web/c/?searchTerm=6KE&sra=oss good luck
374
« on: 23 April 2012, 04:14:21 pm »
ooohh very nice.
pity its not free and for an fzs600
I agree, started my 02 600 this morning to find she is blowing from a hole somewhere underneath the collector section i havent had a chance to look at it fully yet, but has anyone had decent success in getting it welded?? its done 26000 on the original downpipes but now im riding it all year round am i better to splash out on st/st?? any advice greatly appreciated?
375
« on: 20 April 2012, 10:59:01 am »
make sure the wireless encryption is set for WPA or WPA2!!!, with a strong password ie not a word that is in a dictionary.
if it is the neighbours then it is very easy to crack WEP encryption and if your WPA password is not strong it is also very easy to do a "brute force" attack to find the password.
keep an eye on who connects for a while to make sure its secure.
good luck
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