I’ve already bought genuine cables, so if my trip goes ahead, at least if I take them with me I’ll have the parts, even if a bike shop has to change them.
If your throttle operation is smooth from idle to full throttle, returns all the way back unaided the same way, with a nice click sound, when twisting on the bar and rides snatch and jamming free, it's fine. You don't need to change it, just oil it properly it's not just going to snap.
Quote from: Gnasher on 01 August 2021, 08:24:36 amIf your throttle operation is smooth from idle to full throttle, returns all the way back unaided the same way, with a nice click sound, when twisting on the bar and rides snatch and jamming free, it's fine. You don't need to change it, just oil it properly it's not just going to snap. Good point, I forgot and didnt even think to suggest this as the very first step. Cheap but effective cable oilers are easy to find - - https://www.sealey.co.uk/product/5637192208/motorcycle-twin-clamp-cable-oiler
with 3 in 1. Thanks again.
Use engine oil, same as what's in the bike and don't go mad or it will pee out for ages
Quote from: Gnasher on 01 August 2021, 05:44:12 pmUse engine oil, same as what's in the bike and don't go mad or it will pee out for ages Er how is he supposed to inject that into the cable..? Is there an aerosol based lubricant he can use instead of engine oil..
Is GT85 any good for cables?
Yep, hydraulic cable oiler. It's a tube with rubber seal in the bottom that seals around the cable. The tube screws apart and is filled with your choice of oil, then screwed back together. The top half has a plunger that forces the oil into the cable.
Don't over oil and if you do, allow them to drain, or you get oil dripping out the ends for weeks