Seems like it, it drips outside on mine though, haven't yet opened the airbox. This is next step whilst changing oil. Will take it for a spin today, as said, been standing for 5 years in pieces before someone put it together, I bought it and this was the first run that lasted longer than 10 mins. So I hope that it might clear itself but will check the airbox and aforementioned bolt's length. Shouldn't be harmful to the bike, I hope.

Right, to clarify a bit. Fuel level is low, hence the gauge might be not showing it right. Checked connections and these are fine. As for the coolant level - all pipes on the bike were mixed up, I've sorted them out - credit to you guys - and it seemed fine when I was riding around home and the level was checked daily, never dropped. Done few miles about a week ago and after that journey level dropped - no coolant is visible in expansion tank, yet, as it was previously messed up, it might be the case that after draining and refilling it, it had cleared air out of the system and sucked coolant out of expansion tank (level top up should cure that) or there is still a leak somewhere. Will need to investigate that, will have the bike back home tomorrow so can write more on that then. Main thing is I can take it for a proper ride and check the level during the trip in terms of getting off the bike, shining some light from behing the expansion tank to check the level. I am bit on the mad side, but would not attempt to check the level whilst riding... :P

Only finished it today - swapped the 2-3 coilpack, not much of a change, but bit better. What was bothering me was that on the schematic drawing it was showing same side of coil connected to same wires, when on the bike it was connected differently on both. After Gnasher said it's polarity is marked on the case I've checked voltage going in and connected wires the proper way... This (there was hell of a difference right away) combined with draining (well, most of old fuel came out) the tank and filling with fresh premium petrol gave a nice result. Runs lovely (well, still need to clean the carbs, do oil and balance carbs afterwards, but a lot better). I've been riding around 8 miles today and what a difference... Still few things to sort out but already (finally) feels like a lovely bike! Thank you all, as I'd be stuck without your help. Much appreciated. Will see what comes next. Only annoying bit is that the latch for the seat won't shoot out, stays unlocked constantly but will take it off and investigate. Oh, and fuel gauge shows empty now - despite putting 5l or more from the canister... Never mind that, rides like never before!

Misfire is still present past 3000 rpm, will have to strip carbs anyway and sync them, but will need Carbtune or similar and won't be able to justify it at present... Seems more like an electrical issue, will swap cables tomorrow on 2-3 again, as it was, maybe someone altered the installation? It run a tat nicer methinks... Will post a photo of what it looks like tomorrow.

Ze coil pack has landed... Quick question, though. Considering everything on this bike was upside - down and back to front, could cables going into coil pack be swapped and cause misfire? Thanks.

Thanks for invaluable advice, it seems that 2 and 3 are misfiring - hence I need a coilpack, I suppose. Brand new plugs in place, didn't change much. Looking for 2-3 coilpack then. Will report on findings after replacing it. Anyone's got a spare laying around? Thanks!

PS: I'm surprised I still carry on resolving problems with it, but if I'd gone this far I recon it stays with me forever. Oil's next.

Hi all, just a bit of misfire, was there since I had the bike, was told that the plugs were done and that did not change anything. I will 'drain' water from carbs later on, but just checked the plugs and they are CR9E instead of CR8E, could that potentially cause the problem, or will it be rather something else? They do look fresh-ish, but considering what was done to the cooling system I wouldn't take their newness for granted... Also will check and clean air filter (K&N). Carb cleaning and balancing will be done later on, but for now was planning to change oil, do filter clean, plugs. Any other issues it might have? Did check the TPS and it was out, but all right now. Fresh fuel ticked. Also, it tends to stutter sometimes at low revs and in low gear - it normally happens only when it warms up, same with the misfire, less of a manifestation on cold engine. I should have start with this part, shouldn't I?

I should have mention this in the first place - I've replaced it with an automative bulb - slightly different as the contacts are more oval than round, but fits only one way and has two filaments. Still no joy. I thought that because if there was improper bulb fitted then there would be no continuity in the circuit - hence no light due to the fact the circuit is not closed. Will try to get at it today as soon as I'm done with all the work scheduled.

Right, as per photos - soldered the dodgy bit, will wait for amalgamate tape to get it properly insulated, didn't resolve the issue. As for the lightbulbs - did check them, bodge is an understatement, never seen anyone that stupid (well, not never, but for a long time...)... Please see second photo. Bulb replaced, yet it doesn't work. Is there a fuse in line as the wrong bulb would probably blow it? Will check the whole thing tracing from start to finish I guess...

I will have to re-create this as on mine there should be a little 'funnel' which is missing - apparently - yet, I'll get two pipes connected to the tank outlets and run them by the clutch cover as it should be. Taking quite a bit to get back to bog standard...

Hi guys, more pestering - this time electrical - thought I'd ask before breaking an open door... I've got no tail lights on when switching them on - front works fine, nothing on the back. When I press any of the brakes all the lights switch on, brake, tail light and numberplate light - all lit up when I press front or rear brake (this wasn't happening with front brake, but the cables were disconnected from the switch). I've attached a photo of a wire cut - it is (I think) for the double light mod - could this be the culprit? It was bastardised a bit, so can expect anything here I guess...

Right... All (I guess) is connected right, the pipe going from the top of the expansion tank was going through the unknown (earlier) bracket and past that it was connected to the right side of the radiator. It is now connected as follows: bottom of the expansion tank to the nipple right under the radiator cap on thermostat housing, top pipe of the expansion tank is connected to the mystery bracket found earlier and nowhere else (effectively acting as a breather (which it should be, isn't it), pipe going from the right side of the carbs (small pipe pointing up from the carbs) is connected to a nipple on the right side of the rad and lastly similar upward small pipe from the carbs is connected to the thermostat housing nipple located around temperature switch and fan switch as per unfazed's post. Thanks to all of you who helped me here, glad to have this finally sorted, will test it this week providing the rain gets milder. Next on the agenda is mocked up electrics, but we're getting there. Will readjust the steering triple tree bearing as I bought the appropriate Yamaha (-ish) tool for the torque wrench. Better to get it right before starting to ride on it and mocking it up - it was completely loose, you could feel clunking when applying brake, going over potholes, etc. There are some issues, but all will be addressed. Eventually, anyway... ) Thanks!