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Messages - reillypadraig
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51
« on: 07 September 2013, 10:36:06 am »
Whoaaa thread just got cage raped  Lol Wel done getting that many miles outa her, when I bought mine there was a new engine hanging in the frame and the old 1 in the corner of the garage with cylinder 3 after blowing up,it had 104,638klm on the clock but he didn't look after it at all.
52
« on: 07 September 2013, 10:31:00 am »
53
« on: 19 August 2013, 05:48:47 pm »
From what I can remember yes it is 14mm, but it's a small problem at idle that this effects, at high rev the vacuum from the cylinders means the fuel in each bowl doesn't get to fill up until u back of the trottle the the bowl fills and only uses what the vacuum demands, as soon a you blast the trottle again it stays around half - 3/4 full because the fuel is constantly going in and out,
I would worry about more important issues with the bike before messing with float height as the main cause
54
« on: 18 August 2013, 05:57:26 pm »
Yea seen it aswel, easier watching it to be honest but few finer points added to book.
Yea it's for any experienced rider, still might shock you, things you might not even think off
Here's one snippet that got to me
" Confusion is the result of too much input to the rider at one time. Holding on too tightly could cause up to 11 bad effects in one single turn, possibly even all at once. SR #2 creates an exhausting chain-reaction of unwanted input and corrections to the machine."
55
« on: 18 August 2013, 05:40:12 pm »
This may or may not help, but I went trough 2 sets of carbs and ended up paying a fortune to some bollox to dyno jet one set and get it running properly on a dyno, he didn't, just got new carbs, still ran like shit cause of the after market exhaust because carbs came of standard bike, I just removed air filter altogether and it runs great, I know it's not for every one but I removed carbs and cleaned and put back in and adjusted this and that and lifted and dropped needles,
Best advise, mix screws as far as I could see only adjust the idle and up to 3k after that they don't count at all, it's the needles next, dropping the circlip down will increase trottle response and for me it cleared the bogging down, found 1 of the diaphrams was cracked , best way to find out is run an air line through the vent holes and if they all lift evenly then there fine.
Float heights can be done with carbs off, hold carbs at an angle so that the needle at the back is bearly touching and measure 14mm from base to top of float( I can be corrected on that!
Found it easy to do this with a barcode I ripped of a cardboard box,
Try find any leaks either side of carbs, if none then try it and see how it goes but float height isn't always the prob,
If you know anyone close that could lend a set of carbs it's a quick way to find out if your carbs are ready for the bin.
Not word of god but just how I got though it
56
« on: 18 August 2013, 05:13:00 pm »
If you haven't read it yet its a very good read. Link for twist of the wrist 2: http://www.mediafire.com/?71ynjmmgiujJust realised how much there is to learn yet! 
57
« on: 18 August 2013, 01:55:46 am »
Simply put high lift cams just leave the intake valve open for slightly longer on each stroke to take in slightly more fuel air mix, which in turn gives more grunt but like already said its a fine line,
Afaik this can be put to better use and get better results on a fuel injected engine that can be mapped but that's neither here nor there
58
« on: 15 August 2013, 10:33:56 pm »
So the glasses seating does help??
59
« on: 14 August 2013, 10:16:19 am »
Lol, good replies, glad I'm not the only one that gets pissed of with glasses
60
« on: 13 August 2013, 12:57:29 pm »
Never heard of the optifog? Don't think ill get laser treatment either( darrsi show off lol). I'd say ill try the contacts out,
Just the duchinni helmet I have is the right fit for me and everything, just the padding squashes the crap outa my ear and I don't have a thin "leg" on my glasses.
a thin "leg " with the fancy crap they can put in lenses might work but ill get a supply of contacts to try out.
No-one has the squashed ear problem?
61
« on: 13 August 2013, 10:10:34 am »
I wouldn't over worry about the filings, there is a magnetic bung on the bottom of my 99. U can see it when u look straight into the tank.... ( see it slightly better when it's empty  ) I hadn't a clue what it was until I seem crap stuck to it and when I put an extendable magnetic screwdriver in it got sucked to it lol. I'm sure even a very small air gap is fine, just make sure your vent pipe isn't caught or kinked under the tank, which has happened and the tank gets sucked in....
62
« on: 13 August 2013, 09:49:35 am »
Lol, I was planning on getting contacts to try them out, brother has them but he says they are a pain, can fall out by times and you might forget yourself if looking at someone welding, then your fuked, lol.
It's not so much the vision but my glasses themselves that fog, last winter I had to leave the visor up.....all the time. Everytime I put it down it fogged up, also, I seem some shark helmets with a sticker on the padding just behind the visor with( easy on glasses) or some sorta crap written on it? Anyone purchase a helmet like this?
The glasses do create a small reflective glare by times, not sure if many experience this or does everyone have tinted visors?
63
« on: 13 August 2013, 09:06:57 am »
Just as an off topic, I just wanted to get a broad opinion on how all of you cope with wearing glasses in your helmet, just on if they bug ya just abit of if ya put the helmet on a little awkward and Ur ear hurts the whole trim, or do you wear contacts especially for this purpose??? I'm asking this because I don't wear contacts and its coming back into the glasses fogging up season again soon 
64
« on: 08 August 2013, 07:30:04 am »
I surpose I not worth being stingy
65
« on: 08 August 2013, 12:02:08 am »
Just wondering if anyone have ever refurbished their chain ? The chain on my Fazer had plenty of miles left in it but the previous owner didn't take care if it and left me with a few tight links, I would rather try and get a few more miles out of her if I could before shelling out for a new chain and sprockets as neither are all that bad( I'v seen alot worse on the road,)
So far u started of with spray can chain lube, but find the owners manual better by sticking to engine oil as lube, I know I know, but hey, it works fine for me,
I did try take of swing and to remove the chain in into entirety, but the swing arm bolt got tighter and I unscrewed it so was afraid to break it,
So anyway of freeing the thought links while chain is still on bike??
66
« on: 07 August 2013, 11:51:39 pm »
I second that, but all depends on where u live and amount of line in the water, personal I just emptied my coolant, filled it up with water, emptied it again, filled with water again, then took off all the pipes running to and from the pump to make sure no old coolant was resting in the pipe work.
Filled with the halfords stuff, turned bike over to get pump moving, topped up, brought bike for quick spin, rechecked level and that was it, nothing major, 30mind in all, including spin. Well worth replacing coolant fairly often IMO.
Anti-freeze AFAIK turns acidic after a period of time. I can be proven wrong on that though!
67
« on: 02 August 2013, 09:05:14 am »
I went to remove my pivot bar and after 2-3 turn it started to get seriously tight so I said to f€&k with that and tightened it back in, no point causing another problem.
Not sure if it does destroy the bearings
68
« on: 17 July 2013, 09:04:25 am »
I got the whole tyre myself the other day and all, but I keep having the same problem, my hero blobs are cut off when I got the Fazer and I keep having to put my toes on the pegs coming to a tight corner, feet keep scraping, even if I have my foot under or over the gears and over the brake pedal
69
« on: 15 July 2013, 11:26:08 am »
Thanks! If I can find the adjacent wire on the far side that its meeting and get a long straight connector it should work, one way to find out is just hit the kill switch and press starter button eh?
70
« on: 15 July 2013, 10:43:26 am »
Thanks for that, hope they can do something, 100-150 quid for even the old almera cars, nothing about bikes on the site but will ask
71
« on: 15 July 2013, 02:28:09 am »
Only problem is finding a clock with a little over 16,000 miles on it, I don't think any mileage is kept on the engine itself and everything on the speedo is done through the front wheel, pity the new engine didn't come with clocks aswel :-(. But the exact mileage was written on the clutch cover so that's what I'm going on, If I go to sell it it going to take some explaining and whipping out the calculator lol.  Would like to calculate it and get someone with a computer to plug in and put the right mileage on it, but don't know anyone in Ireland to do it
72
« on: 14 July 2013, 08:37:12 am »
Hi all, might as wel start another new topic for this one.... As some of you may know I bought my Fazer with a new engine hanging in it, so I fixed it up but wasn't able to do anything with the speedo yet, The bike was originally from Europe I think... But was brought into uk and some messer slapped a very horrible and lumpy mph face on the clocks, Now with the new engine in I have a clock in klms a lumpy face in mph and no proper mileage for new engine, For the sake of it the bike at the min has 106025klms on clock and the new engine has about 16,000 miles
73
« on: 14 July 2013, 08:26:08 am »
Just wondering if anyone knows which exact wire it is for the oil light in the main white junction under the tank,
Ill explain, simply I was removing the whole from fairing and the whole lot sometime ago now, but I did plug out the wire in the junction box under the tank to remove the clocks completely, when I plugged all back together I lost indicators lights dash lights fuel light, so checked the big white connector and its corroded to hell inside, half the little needles are broken or gone, so I put it back together and tightened it with a cable tie and low and behold everything works, except the oil light,
Just wondering without having to bollox round tracing wires tru the frame and loom does anyone know the exact wire?
74
« on: 21 June 2013, 12:20:29 am »
not bad, not sure if i would go as far as painting but back to black bumper spray makes it look shiney for a good couple of weeks for me, do rightly, but good job
75
« on: 20 June 2013, 12:10:38 am »
packie just sanded his down and sprayed his black(before bike packed up) not sure what paint, but you could message him for tips? cant find the link either to a picture of this but its here somewhere
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