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Messages - reillypadraig
26
« on: 14 January 2014, 07:17:05 am »
Wel as some if you know I went with the whole powder coating the bike frame red and have the bike back together a while and had to get my new headstock bearing right b4 a decent blast,
Wel I ended up going balls out down the road, moderate-strong head wind but chin down on tank in the end I managed to push out 138mph b4 I caught up with a line of cars behind a tractor
I'm not condoning it in any way shape or form, I know it's dangerous and all that but just wondering has anyone else got a better top speed out of the boxeye? I'm sure with a different ratio on the sprockets...... But just with standard set-up?
27
« on: 08 January 2014, 12:59:06 pm »
I done that, they were too tight, fixed now, but will have to recheck in few days
28
« on: 08 January 2014, 09:21:23 am »
Am I being abit hasty?? I have only done 4 mile on the bike since new headstock went in, bedding in period necessary for this replacement?
It's my first go at this so am willing to hold my hands up and say I made a balls of it, lol
29
« on: 08 January 2014, 08:48:33 am »
Torque values are all well and good, but I'm lacking the torque c-spanner as they call it, so can only do abit of guess work,
It hasn't made the bike un-monuverable , I guess it's what it would feel like if I had a steering damper on?
30
« on: 08 January 2014, 08:05:24 am »
Possibly, I have knocked it back half a turn though since
31
« on: 08 January 2014, 07:14:28 am »
Fitted new headstock bearings, but now feels heavy, at slow speeds like turning a cruise ship, like as if front wheel was flat, but it's different bearings, old 1's were the ball bearings, new 1 is the roller bearings, much more of a surface to move against? Old bearing had like 12 balls in them? New rollers have like 25-30? Maybe just extra surface friction?
32
« on: 17 December 2013, 10:56:00 am »
Old rad was I a bad was so got new cover, arrived yesterday, so I decided to undo the side bolts to attach the cover, and just as always with my Fazer, there had to be one prick of a bolt that wouldn't open, of course the hex rang, then vice grips didn't work, the outside is domed shaped do no use, so I decided to cut a line in the bolt with a hacksaw and use a flat head screwdriver, nope didn't work, tight as fuck, so I got thick and put the screwdriver at an angle and a hammer and tried to batter it around so I might turn abit and then unscrew it, but no, I pushed the whole corner or the rad in on its self  , But any thoughts on the rad cover?
33
« on: 14 December 2013, 12:23:12 am »
Lol, does look very pink in that pictures but it's the light and the flash, up close it's a lot darker than that, if it was like that in real life i would have sent it the fuck back 
34
« on: 13 December 2013, 09:47:10 pm »
Just an observation about replacing bearings. I didn't think it advisable to grease the bearings to aid their fitment. I can understand it might make getting them in easier, however it's an interference fit and it's meant to be very snug so that the outer bearing doesn't move, only the inner. I've been taught to place the bearings in the freezer overnight so that they contract ever so slightly and then to heat up where the bearing is to be mounted so that it expands ever so slightly. That way it makes the job easier, although still a bit of a bastid!
I did think about this and Ur right, but patience is a virtue and I lack it by times so it was either grease it and squeeze it in or batter the bejasus out of it haha, I was thinking of going for a red frame on mine, but decided against it after I saw a photoshop of it. Will be interested to see how it comes out! 
Yea I think I got the idea from a picture you put up of this but I hope it turns out nicer than the photoshop photo, slightly darker red so fingers crossed Here's it with forks on, I do have more done but haven't taken a photo yet
35
« on: 13 December 2013, 09:54:44 am »
Just an update guys, Frame was sprayed as you know, managed to get headstock bearings in without fucking it up!  imagine! I just he'd a long threaded bar and a plate and the old bearing on top! For the bearing to go down on the steering stem I battered it down with whit plastic pipe for under the sink, lol  Redone the wiring because my oil light wouldn't work( now fixed). Cleaned up forks and Swingarm( but I'm trying to get a mirror shine on it but just not happening, any suggestions?) Haven't sourced the rear fender yet but will, If I can get the forks and swing arms to like mirror like I might attack the cam cover Oh, on closer inspection of the part that is bolted to the Swingarm, the bit that the bottom of the shock is bolted into, I noticed the roller bearing was knackerd so got that replaced-€60 though. Was bit tight to put in but 2 delicate to batter it in, so greased it up and put it in the vice and tighter in slowly, job done
36
« on: 13 December 2013, 09:19:42 am »
Might aswel give an update on this, I just got new prescription and 2 new glasses, ( thin arms around the ear) and got contacts aswel, so the days I forget about the contacts I have thin armed glasses so won't hurt my ears as much but won't stop the fogging I'm afraid, new shark helmet coming in January me thinks! Com-on santy!!!! 
37
« on: 11 November 2013, 09:05:34 pm »
Lol no problem. What you replacing it with?
38
« on: 11 November 2013, 08:08:40 pm »
I would be of the same opinion, don't fix something that might not need to be fixed, best option is to get it to someone to dyno it, better put in the cost now rather than maybe having to pay for dyno anyway and then a new set of pipes aswel, that would be a right pain
39
« on: 11 November 2013, 08:06:02 pm »
Thanks, hope it goes well, first thing first, get headstock back in, any do's or dont's?
40
« on: 11 November 2013, 06:32:13 pm »
New rear plactic under fender being sourced,( old one was broke by flying broken chain at 70+mph
If you mean the plastic/rubber flap that just pops into the subframe and hangs in front of rear shock I have one of those if you want it?
Happy to let you have it for cost of postage.
No no the entire rear mudguard basically, from number plate to shock. frame looks nice matey  .....how much was powdercoat?
100 euro, i forgot the small engine mount and tension bar for rear brake and he said no prob will do it with no extra cost. The finish is smooth as fuck, smooth as glass Will I look good with the black??
41
« on: 11 November 2013, 04:19:39 pm »
Yea I'v done it again, bike is in a million bits, frame has been sent of for powder coating, pics below, new bearings ordered for headstock, loom sent to be fixed,( oil light won't come on, some connections broke.) Some other items now sent to be powder coated aswel, just trying to find somewhere to clean and shine exhaust Swingarm forks, engine top and top yoke. New brake pads ordered, going to be removing rear shock from the spring and painting the shock itself( bit rusty) also new bearing needed for arm under the shock,( can't think of name). New rear plactic under fender being sourced,( old one was broke by flying broken chain at 70+mph New chain ordered Oil+filter Unsure about Swingarm bearing, not sure if they are bad or not, have few other things to do, just wondering what you guys think?
42
« on: 18 October 2013, 12:11:06 am »
Didn't someone have a question like this before, but it was the other way around, like how many revs would you be if you wer in 6th doing 60mph if you went 2 teeth down on the front? Something like that
But someone put up a scale like on an excel sheet to show what speed and at what rev and how many teeth up or down? That might help but I can't find the thread
43
« on: 17 October 2013, 11:12:47 am »
Fair play, good bita work done there, that polished engine covers looks good!!
44
« on: 17 October 2013, 10:54:05 am »
I'm not going to suggest a colour as that's personal (I like the triumph daytona blue frame )
But if you're going to do the swingarm the same colour as the frame then I'd also do the lower fork legs to even the bike out!
That did cross my mind, but I don't know which would look better. I didn't wana get everything done and then go, wait a minute that looks shite. Then have to strip the new paint and go down the shiney route. If you are going to go to the trouble to strip down why not powdercoat
Tbh I didn't put much thought into it because I haven't go to price a powdercoat for it, I just got a price for it to be resprayed by a panel beater. Not sure if it's cheaper or not. One question, if any of you guys wer doing it, would you go and do the Swingarm and forks aswel? What about the top yoke? Mine is a kinda crap flakey silvery colour and I wana clean it up aswel, colour of frame or shine? Just looking for your own opinions if you had to do it to your own bike
45
« on: 16 October 2013, 10:37:02 pm »
They are a good project, that's not bad, I didn't have to get new down pipes but mine came with 1 knackerd engine and a new engine with 15,k miles on it with only 2 bolts holding it in the frame, had to source a lot of parts and bolts,( if something is missing you can get parts but no1 keeps the bolts for some reason, (pain)
She looks in good enough nick,
Enjoy!!
Keep us updated
46
« on: 16 October 2013, 08:03:16 pm »
Did u check the fuel vent pipes of the carbs? There's one on each side between cylinder 1&2 and one between cylinder 3&4 on the black rail of the carbs(airbox side)if there folded it causes a vacuum inside in the carb and would suck up a small amount of fuel into the carb until the vacuum is equalized,
Just my 2 cents, if not try the tank vent pipes
Hope this helps
47
« on: 16 October 2013, 02:33:14 pm »
Is a really good photoshop, fair deuce .
Not sure if ill powder coat it, might just get it primed and get it properly sprayed by a panel beater,. Might just polish the cam caps, it's a good idea, but I wonder how the Swingarm would look painted aswel,
Wel got some good feedback on this so far, think I might spray the engine while I have it out aswel
48
« on: 16 October 2013, 09:45:52 am »
Ur opinion is appreciated, maybe looking after a shiny Swingarm is abit much, just wasn't sure if I should paint it aswel or not,.
I'm not going for the total ponse look, just the frame and bits and pieces, won't be covering the bike in race stickers and all that, just want to get rid of rust is main job and I liked the look of the maroon colour job, thought it might be a nice change, doubt I'd be able to get the group buy now on the pipes eh? Think that shop had sailed for me Fazer,
Just on a note, anyone know the colour code for that maroon colour on the frame of the r1??
49
« on: 16 October 2013, 05:32:13 am »
My poor little Fazer must hate me for wanting to do horrible things to it, yes I only rebuilt it last year after buying it with the new engine hanging in it by 2 bolts and 3 carbs later got it going right, but I have her parked up for a few weeks now and went out yesterday to a flat battery. But that's not the point, while I was rebuilding it I noticed fairly bad rusting in front and rear of the frame(behind the fairings) also in the bottom of the frame So I have decided to do a full bare back naked strip and either oh fashioned sand by hand and paint bla bla bla or get it sandblasted.(opinions welcomed here) It's a black 99fzs with a black frame but I was planing on going abit maroon on the frame, the same colour as the frame on a 09 r1 cross plane crank maroon, hoping it will turn out something like this.( I know is a kawi but only pic I could find with the colours I'm looking for) But any ideas on the Swingarm, should I leave as is? Or do a chrome polished finish? Still in idea stage but starting to strip at the minute
50
« on: 11 September 2013, 09:28:09 pm »
Just thought I'd throw in my 2 cents here, I had to do a half rebuild on mine, bought it with new engine hanging in the frame by 2 bolts and had to strip front rear, Swingarm clutch and wiring was nackerd amoungst other serious carb problems, rusted frame etc etc,
Any probs you have just throw them up, lots guys on here that know their Fazers inside out so this was the right place to come,
If you need parts just ask,
I have a full engine sitting up( the old one was given to me but cylinder 3 is fried, all other parts are in good enough nik, plus I have 2 sets of carbs, but none complete but if you need certain small bits I can help.
Good to see that restoration is being done on these and not scraped. Good project!!
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