1st/2nd not snicking in/out of gear smoothly - Clutch drag?

[b1k3rdude]

Morning

Changing up and down from 1st or 2nd sometimes requires a more pressure on the lever - as in the lever is pushed meets resistance, keep pushing and its goes into the gear. I have stubby lever on and I am wondering if they are poor machined to the fulcrum/cable position isn't the same as a stock lever.

The following has already been done to the bike -

- due to the friction plates needing replacing and because I had a spare clutch basket & metal c/plates - I replaced the entire clutch.
- adjusted the drive chain to 40mm slack as per manual.
- adjusted clutch lever free play to 3mm, biting point is about 1 inch from the bar.

And lastly is it normal for this bike when coasting along that with the clutch fully disengaged (lever in) and the throttle blipped that I can hear what sounds like the clutch partially spinning, making a clunk etc?

Any help or pointers appreciated, before the local mechanic takes it for a spin and has a look.

[seangee]

I'd start with adjusting the cable. Biting from 1 inch out doesn't seem like enough to fully disengage. Had similar symptoms a while ago with 1st and 2nd at low speeds, and struggled to find neutral. Adjusting the cable did the trick. Can't comment on coasting with clutch in but it sounds consistent with the theory.

[stevierst]

IICR there was a thread on this a few weeks ago with a multitude of things that it could be. Can anyone remember where it is, because I'm a bit computer stupid .

[PaulSmith]

The things that affect gear change on my bike that you haven't mentioned so far include oil level too high or too low - just below max seems to be the sweet spot for me but YMMV. And any slack in the gear change lever will also cause sloppy gear changes. 

[Davebo]

Mine is best if I hardly use the clutch and she likes a bit of pre-load. 

[fazer-rat]

leave the clutch alone when changing up, you don't need it and the gears leap into place 

[baggy]

I had exactly the same problem with mine a few weeks ago. The weekend I noticed loads of used chain lube that had gone to a thick sticky mess around the front sprocket, I spent an hour on Saturday cleaning it out and now it's fine and doesn't do it anymore

[b1k3rdude]

• I'd start with adjusting the cable. Biting from 1 inch out doesn't seem like enough to fully disengage.
• Had similar symptoms a while ago with 1st and 2nd at low speeds, and struggled to find neutral. Adjusting the cable did the trick.

• The bike came with span adjustable levers, so the biting point is separate to the cable adjustment. I need to buy a s/h original lever to compare.
• I forgot to mention that the issue like yours is more noticeable at low speeds, but its still not as smooth as my bandit 600 at any speed.

there was a thread on this a few weeks ago with a multitude of things that it could be.

This would be handy

• just below max seems to be the sweet spot for me but YMMV.
• And any slack in the gear change lever will also cause sloppy gear changes.

• That's a new one on me, will have to check.
• Hmm I don't think its got any noticeable slack, but will check.

I noticed loads of used chain lube that had gone to a thick sticky mess around the front sprocket,

I dont understand how that would effect gear change action, but if its dry enough this weekend it cant hurt to clean that area in any event.

[baggy]

I dont know how it could either but it worked. Theres was load of really thick clumps of old chain lube in there, the bike accelerates better now as well as gear changes in 1st and 2nd being easier. 

[1967fazer]

I dont know how it could either but it worked. Theres was load of really thick clumps of old chain lube in there, the bike accelerates better now as well as gear changes in 1st and 2nd being easier. 

Hmmmm might be time for a quick clean up as well methinks!

[b1k3rdude]

I dont know how it could either but it worked. Theres was load of really thick clumps of old chain lube in there, the bike accelerates better now as well as gear changes in 1st and 2nd being easier.

Well predictably this had no effect on my issue and over the last few weeks its gotten worse.

Now when my speed drops below (I'm guessing) 15mph, gear changes into 1st and 2nd sometimes dont go in and I can feel resistance on the gear lever. When at a standstill it misses neutral all together and I have particlay engage the clutch and then it snicks in anbd out of 1st-neutral-2nd and back again no problem.

I am buying a new set of metal clutch plates to go with the new friction plates I put in several weeks ago. They showed signs of wear even though said plates were bought at the same time as the friction plates and these came out of my previous fazer and had only done 1000 or so miles.

[shrekster]

There's a little spring behind the gear shaft cover, it weakens over time. I found If I changed it the gear change would be nice and slick again until it weakened again. The local Yamaha mechanic used to squeeze 2 springs in.  I think it's job is to align the shift shaft ready for the next gear change, as it weakens it doesn't work so well. I always meant to find a supplier to get a slightly stronger spring.
Jim.

[b1k3rdude]

• There's a little spring behind the gear shaft cover, it weakens over time. I found If I changed it the gear change would be nice and slick again until it weakened again. The local Yamaha mechanic used to squeeze 2 springs in.
• I think it's job is to align the shift shaft ready for the next gear change, as it weakens it doesn't work so well. I always meant to find a supplier to get a slightly stronger spring.

• Ah good call, but I cant see the gear lever spring causing my issue and I have owned 4x FZS1000's and this spring has never failed, but one spring that might is the small one/s on the selector drum, and this is easy to check and Ill check the tang the above spring rests on just in-case.
• Will see if its a job I can do myself.

[shrekster]

Yes that's the one I mean, it's about an inch or so long.