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Messages - Ricky
26
« on: 31 August 2018, 03:59:12 pm »
My mechanic cleaned and checked the brakes when he changed my chain, that is how he found the wear on the pads, ( I checked them 2000 miles before and they had plenty left)When I put in the new pads had to push back the pistons to get the new pads in and they moved ok and no problem.
27
« on: 31 August 2018, 12:06:53 pm »
Had to fit a new set of EBC HH pads. Mechanic found one side of front was all most down to the limit, but other side seemed ok ??Easy fit and did not take long. Been out and gently been using the brakes. The pads seem to be binding on the discs and when you push the bike about my drive I can feel the resistance. Is this normal? Will it settle in with use, or have I fitted them wrong?
28
« on: 31 August 2018, 11:58:48 am »
Had a short ride out on the bike today and I think the gear change is much smother and easier to use. Before with the old chain the gear change felt crunchy and not smooth,will need a long run to confirm.
I have noticed there seems to be a bit of a whine, but not sure where it is coming from.
29
« on: 16 August 2018, 10:44:49 am »
Had the new chain and sprockets fitted yesterday. The bike has done 22000 miles and they where the original set, mechanic says front sprocket was in very bad condition even though the rear was ok. The chain to was well worn out.The new DID ZVMX gold chain looks very smart and I think on the short ride home the bike did sound quieter than the trip to the mechanics. I was listening out for noise on both trips.I wonder if this chain will stretch very much? I will check after a few rides .Now the big question,chain lube, my mechanic says do not use wax, dry lube or grease, any good quality chain lube is ok but must be applied straight after a good ride so the chain is warm, which I always do any way.I asked him about using WD40 as I have read a lot of people use it. He says it is great for cleaning but he thinks it will not stay on the chain and not to bother with it.I have been using WD40 no fling chain lube since I had the bike, what are you using?
30
« on: 10 August 2018, 11:37:50 am »
My mechanic is supplying my chain set , I could have got it a bit cheaper but he can get a bit funny about fitting bits that he does not know and not supplied him self.And he will guarantee the parts and work.He is fitting a quiet front sprocket, but it is not OME and I think J T? make one?
31
« on: 07 August 2018, 12:46:27 pm »
I have booked my bike to go in next week for new chain and sprockets, the mechanic has strongly advised me not to fit a vx chain and use a zvm chain because of the power and weight of the bike.He has quoted for a DID gold zvm chain and good quality sprockets with a silent front for £178 plus fitting,which he says should be quick and easy , I am having a few other jobs done at the same time ,mostly a brake service.
So will not be trying the Ognibene set which he has never heard of.
He advises all his customers to fit a silent front sprocket as they do work and worth spending a bit extra.
32
« on: 05 August 2018, 07:19:14 pm »
I have been looking at the Ognibene silent sprockets and DID vx gold set from M&P at £ 122.Never seen any reports about them and would be interested in Andy's opinion.
What is the difference between vx and vzm chain's.
33
« on: 02 August 2018, 07:30:34 pm »
Has any one had any experience with the Ognibene silent sprockets and DID vx gold chain sets?
Are they silent and would you know the difference with ear plugs,but helmet and engine noise?
34
« on: 02 August 2018, 05:01:00 pm »
I think it is time for new chain and sprockets.I bought the bike with 15000 miles and now done 22000.The bike had a tight spot when I got it and it just got worse, although the sprockets look ok the tight spot is bothering me as it is very loose else were.
I have cleaned and lubed regularly. On inspection I noticed that there are a few o rings missing and believe this to be the problem.
So a new chain set I think is in order, but what to buy?
O ring? X ring? Heavy duty? extra heavy duty? Gold ?and what make?
Any idea's and where to buy from as I hear there are a lot fake and cheap Chinese crap out there,and one final question, do you really need the Yamaha silent front sprocket? is there a difference?
35
« on: 02 August 2018, 04:44:35 pm »
Hi Triggergee, Unfortunately my settings were as set up by Luke at the rear to start with so can not remember what they were, then the preloaded was increased a few clicks plus a few more tweaks because it shock it's head bad on very fast acceleration.Luke' says to leave front set as standard, but that also did not work for me. Luke was very helpful and gave me a lot of help ,but it was Mike who tweaked the front and I think he said there was to much rebound so made a few adjustments and a harder rear.Sorry I can not help more but it was a year ago .Luke is the man with suspension,but he has settings with the front set as standard so needs a bit of trial and error.
My problem now is although the bike rides and handles well in most conditions and roads, the rear is firm and over distance can be a problem for my back, the bike with the old shock set as standard was comfortable up to 200 miles, give or take ,but now only half that if I am lucky. If I softened the rear the head shake comes back.
36
« on: 02 August 2018, 10:48:16 am »
I went down the progressive spring route simply because of the state of the crap roads , the handling may be a bit compromised but for me it was the way to go.Having also gone down the R6 rear shock route and talking at length to both Luke and Mike, the front is greatly defected by the rear shock, so may be you should look at that also.Luke gave me some settings for my R6 shock but they did not work with my progressive springs and spent some time finding the best compromise , for that is what it is in the end. It was Mike who finely sorted it out in the end with just a few tweaks to the front and rear, now it sorted. With the bad state of are roads I don't believe you can get a perfect setup just a compromise.
37
« on: 27 July 2018, 05:32:13 pm »
Mike fitted my full Monty and there is a definite improvement in power and delivery, you feel it straight away, and the power at the top end is definitely stronger. The amount of people that have had the mod done and this is the first that I have heard that they think it does not work. I just don't believe him or his was fitted wrong.Mike is the man and I am sure will confirm this.
38
« on: 16 July 2018, 11:28:10 am »
My bike is Ivanaized and has the k &n filter, some bikes have the pipercross or bmc filter, don't think you should use the yam paper filter. surely the idea of Ivanaizing is about performance and not using the right filter is a bit of a step back?
Also with the kit fitted at higher throttle opening you are going to need more air going in and the paper filter will restrict this. The price of a new paper filter is not that different when compared to being able to clean and re-use a performance filter. I believe the pipercross filter is cheaper than a k&n with no power difference.
39
« on: 10 July 2018, 09:50:29 pm »
Since I had the full Monty done I can not get close to 56 mpg lol.
40
« on: 08 June 2018, 09:38:09 pm »
Had a TDM 900 for 12 years before I had the FZS 1000 a very underestimated bike , not in the same league as the Fazer in power, but a characteristic bike, I wish I kept it, but a choice if I had to pick , it would be the Fazer.
41
« on: 02 June 2018, 10:36:11 am »
After having my bike the full Monty, it has definitely lost mpg, hard to say how much but the fuel light comes on about 30 miles earlier give or take.Performance wise big difference.
42
« on: 13 May 2018, 08:53:32 pm »
I have now received the tap, £ 7 from EBay a tapir and plug tap so not bad.The taper tap fitted straight in and turned easily no problem, the original sump bolt with copper washer is now been fitted and all seems ok no leak, so hopefully I might have got away with it.
43
« on: 09 May 2018, 09:27:28 am »
Ordered a M14x1.5mm tap from EBay and will try to get the threads going, but if that does not work will go down the plug repair route.
My mate a car mechanic say very common problem on vw cars as they have ally stumps and he has repaired many over the years and the plug is the same size.
44
« on: 07 May 2018, 03:14:43 pm »
I think about 70% of the threads are still there and obviously the first bit will be damaged, the EBay plug is half the size of original so hopefully I might have a chance, just so annoyed for using crap plug.
45
« on: 07 May 2018, 02:33:27 pm »
Looking like the size of the plug is M14x1.5mm ,so if I buy a tapir tap I might have a go? Or does any one have a better idea ?
46
« on: 07 May 2018, 11:58:57 am »
Hi ,changed my oil last year for the first time on the FZS 1000 my self, decided to use a after market off EBay magnetic sump plug .
The threads on the plug are not as long as standard plug, and when I changed my oil this morning I have found that it has ripped out the first few threads in the sump and obviously my old plug will now not start because of damaged threads!!!!
What the he'll do I do now?
Any ideas?
What is the size of the plug?
Can I retap as there are still plenty of threads left?
What size tap would I need?
The bike is in my garage so it is stuck there.
Any help or advice would be gratefully received, thanks.
47
« on: 29 April 2018, 12:12:01 pm »
I had the same experience with my mechanic. After my exup value was stuck he freed it all up and felt a big difference in performance, but having read about peoples experiences with the adjustments , I looked at mine and found that first the cables were not at the correct tension a bit lose but no 7k problem and the valve was in the wrong position using Pats method. I fixed best I could and the performance increases again.
I went to see the mechanic but sadly he tells me he has been fixing bikes for 35 years and has been adjusting Fazer exup value since the beginning and does not need to read the manual as he can work it out for him self and does not think it is good to have the cables to tight, and did not appreciate me telling him how to do his job.
Very sad has he otherwise did a good job at a good price and I trusted him to do a good job
48
« on: 18 January 2018, 11:05:46 am »
I know hindsight is a wonderful thing, but would you not be better to but the set you bought off eBay on to the bike?
49
« on: 16 January 2018, 11:00:37 am »
Hi, just thinking and I am very sure Mike would know but if your bike has such very low mileage it stands to reason that the bike has stud unused for a very long time, could this be a reason for some if not all your problems?
The carbs and the engine seals may have dried out?
Just wondering.
50
« on: 26 December 2017, 11:30:07 am »
There are two US models only the California model has the fuel vaporizer kit.
The needle jetting is different but I believe not noticeable.
Also the fuel mix screws are blanked off but can be drilled out for tuning.
The US models don't have the side lights.
Mine does not say it is a inport in the log book, but was imported by DK motorcycles, so no Yamaha service book.
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