This section allows you to view all posts made by this member. Note that you can only see posts made in areas you currently have access to.
Messages - Ghoti
51
« on: 29 February 2012, 03:17:21 pm »
For the uneducated....
Which way does the valve return to? Open or closed?
Am I right in saying:
If the valve sticks open, you'll miss mid-range (ie ideal for those 50mph overtakes in top) but not lose any top end.
If the valve sticks closed, you'll be fine up to about 6k revs and then you'll lose the top end.
I guess that the servo noise at start up is the valve closing, so it's default is open!
I've never listened for a servo noise, but not especially heard one over the fule pump - should it be obvious?
Perhaps now the bike has done 70k I had better think about am exup service. I'll look at the state of the bolts and decide then!
52
« on: 28 February 2012, 05:29:26 pm »
54
« on: 28 February 2012, 09:31:29 am »
What does a slipper clutch do exactly?
Neil Spalding (of Sigma and MotoGP commentator fame) explains here http://www.sigmaperformance.com/slipperclutch.htmlHe owns Sigma Performance so may be a little biased, but I like the way he has written this. Unless you are down shifting at such high revs that the engine braking may make the rear wheel lock, no real point to them.
55
« on: 22 February 2012, 04:03:25 pm »
Graham,
Those kits are not identical.
The ebay one is needle bearing and shaft only
The Marksman is Needle Bearing, Sealed Ball Bearing, & Brake side Oil Seal
The WeMoto 2 ball bearings, 1 needle bearing, 1 shaft and 2 seals
That could be the difference in price.
I'd vouch for WeMoto's stuff, so if you do need everything then I'd go with them. If you only need Needle Bearing, Sealed Ball Bearing, & Brake side Oil Seal go with Marksman (and it comes with a Falcon recommendation). The Ebay one seems to offer the least for nearly the most money.
I'll admit I don't know what parts are needed or the actual quality of any of the parts listed or anything about the job really, so probably best ignoring me (as always!)
56
« on: 16 February 2012, 03:21:07 pm »
Baglux recomends tank covers are treated with a waterproofer, which helps avoid the moisture problem. I give the cover a decent treatment a couple of times a year (and a clean too), otherwise a quick spray down the seams when I wash the bike. I put a layer of polish on the tank and don't buff it off a couple of times a year too. The base of the harness is fairly soft so, if that is kept clean, it wont scratch your tank. When you say "Is there anything else you would recomend for tank protection", do you mean just tank protection or protection from a Baglux harness? If you just want protection and not a way to carry a bag, the only areas of the tank that will get scuffed are where bit rub against it (like knees or your bits!), why not try http://www.invisiblepatterns.co.uk/paint-protection-film-yamaha.html or similar. Tank kit covers zip and knee area. You wont need the full kit, but this will stop stone chips in the fairing and lights too. The kit is almost invisable. If you want to funk up the looks, MotoGrafix do a similar stick on kit with funky colour scheme (or they do for the Fazer, so I guess they do the FZ1 too).
57
« on: 16 February 2012, 09:32:45 am »
A church is "The house of God".
So we can photograph anything if we claim an imaginary friend lives there?
Few, and I thought I was going to have trouble with the tree house in 100 Acre Woods entry. At least we all know Piglet is real, Pooh and Tigger told me so 
58
« on: 15 February 2012, 11:56:46 am »
Not a full list, but take a look here http://www.powerseeker.co.uk/motorbike-insurance-groups.php A lad I know was in the same predicament and he decided on the YBR250 based on isurance (and a very good deal from George White in early January) but was also keen on a GS500 which he thought performance wise was the best bike for insurance group, but the deals for the purchase were not so good.
59
« on: 14 February 2012, 12:01:30 pm »
I'll never forget how happy I was when I saw my missus walking down the aisle towards me. My heart was beating fast & the excitement was unbearable. It seemed to take an age but eventually there she was, standing beside me. I gave her a cheeky wink & said, "Get that trolley here, love. They're doing 3 cases of Strongbow for the price of 2."
60
« on: 13 February 2012, 12:28:37 pm »
Firstly, sorry, I did not read it right. I thought you wanted to go 5mm forward, not 50mm! I was going to go either forward or down, but decided that down and back felt best (most open) for the knees. I also tried the longer adjusters and they were just too long without modifying the actual levers (which I guess is what you are asking for!) I seem to remember that, with consideration of the rubber bit and thinner pegs etc, the overall drop was just over 1". On Ghoti, thanks for getting cold to take the pix. Very helpful. On the brake side, did you get much drop and still miss the pipe?
Cannot remember having any problems with the pipe and the pedal is as low as it can go on the thread (or high on the thread to lower the end?), so I guess either the pedal goes beside the pipe or stops above it. Given the estimated 1" drop in foot pegs, I guess I dropped the pedal 1" too.
61
« on: 12 February 2012, 08:20:26 pm »
62
« on: 12 February 2012, 07:55:26 pm »
I have the MFW vario pegs, but I have gone down and back, not forward. I did not have to change any components.
The rear brake had enough adjustment (just, I'm tight to the stop), only problem is because the lever is lower, setting the light was a pain.
The gear shift, being lower, made the linkage hit the foot peg hanger, so I used a dremel and cut out the back of the hanger.
Saved my knees!
Don't forget the vario pegs have no rubber and a slimmer so they start 1cm or so lower than standard.
63
« on: 06 February 2012, 10:46:48 am »
Some where in the 100 Acre Wood, fairly close to Pooh Bridge. 
64
« on: 03 February 2012, 12:27:21 pm »
£35 if I pay it within 14 days....Booooo!!!
If that is 14 days from the "criminal law breaking activity" that you partook in  , then wasn't time up 2 days ago? When is the ticket dated?
65
« on: 02 February 2012, 03:05:51 pm »
I was under the impression that the fan cut in after a bit when the bike was in neutral was to protect the fan itself rather than stop the engine overheating. If it did not cut in, being that close to the rad, could cause the fan and its motor problems.
I doubt* any water is actually moving through the system at tickover to benefit from a cooling fan.
* Although I actually have no idea what type of water pump is on the Fazer
66
« on: 31 January 2012, 09:15:41 am »
Thanks Luke, got it yesterday. Looks luverly and easy to follow instructions. Now to find time to fit it.
67
« on: 31 January 2012, 09:11:22 am »
I've tried a couple of cheapies from ebay and neither fitted, one too long and the other too short. One looked OK quality wise (but obcviousy did not get to use it), but the other one was very shabby. I got one of the £20ish ones from WeMoto and fits a treat ( http://www.wemoto.com/bikes/yamaha/fzs_1000_fazer/01-03/picture/clutch_cable/). I have since found out that if you take the old cable to some places they can refit the inners (all sheathed up like the Yamaha genuine ones) for about £10-£15, but as I have a new cable I did not bother looking too much more into this although I have a name some where for some one in Sussex if you want it. Genuine Yamaha are £85ish (I seem to remember being said just as I passed out).
68
« on: 26 January 2012, 05:11:51 pm »
As "natural" brake fluid is clear being alcohol based (even DOT 3 and 4), even the normall yellow stuff is dyed to make it yellow (as you said earlier to make it easier to see).
I think this is a blue "tint" like most stuff has a yellow "tint" rather than a colour. I'm guessing that the blue will taint with age/use just like the yellow/pink/green/whatever other colour the manufacturer decides to make it stuff.
69
« on: 26 January 2012, 04:59:44 pm »
You say it gets information already going to the clocks.....gear position? air temp? How and why does the clocks already receive that info?
From Christian's website ( http://cvieth.bplaced.net/ganganzeige_summary.html) Gear: The currently selected drive gear, including Neutral. The current gear is being calculated from the ratio of the two signals for RPM and speed, both taken from the stock dash. These two frequencies have a characteristic relation, which allows for an interpretation of the selected gear. Air temp: The current ambient air temperature. Provided by an extra sensor that comes with the gauge. Stop watch: Start/stop or laptime for use on race tracks, controlled by a (extra) button at the handlebar.
70
« on: 25 January 2012, 02:09:59 pm »
The blue colour could just make it easier to see if you spill it or it leaks onto something light in colour
That's what I thought but it will hide to a large extent any contamination/discolouration, personally I wouldn't use it.
Is the only reason you would not use it because it will hide contamination or is there another reason?
71
« on: 25 January 2012, 08:23:46 am »
Thanks peeps,
Found some ATE Super Blue DOT 4 at a price a little more than standard DOT4 and it comes in a metal tin so theory is can be stored for longer. Another selling point (per the web site) is because it is blue it is easier to bleed (not sure I follow that one personally, perhaps easier to see when the old fluid is flushed)!
72
« on: 24 January 2012, 04:03:36 pm »
Never thought about changing the DOT rating of my brake fluid since I found out that DOT 5 could not be mixed with DOT 4 (and I'm too lazy to clean the whole system out rather than a quick flush through). Anyway, looking for brake fluid last night and I find that you can get a "super DOT 4 (like Motul RBF)" and a DOT 5.1 that can be mixed with DOT 4.
I think the only time I had brake fade on the Fazer was when chasing better riders down hill on the Alps and using a lot of hard braking. It is easy enough to change the fluid so unless it will last a LOT longer I don't think I need additional life. Any other benefits with the superior DOT 4 or DOT 5?
What is the collective thought about brake fluid? Stick with DOT 4 and save the extra pennies, use the DOT 5.1 (at twice the price) or go up to a racing brake fluid (at 4 times the price)?
73
« on: 24 January 2012, 10:11:18 am »
Ghoti yours out thursday 
Why thank you. Now all I need is an excuse for a parcel turning up just before SWMBOs birthday that is bigger than the gift I have bought her! Or a good divorse lawyer
74
« on: 24 January 2012, 08:08:22 am »
KK, I've got a shock on the way from DevilsYam. Can you ask your daughter for her consultancy rates to help me set up my shock? I've been looking for a decent suspension expert for ages
75
« on: 21 January 2012, 01:09:40 pm »
Have you got standard dog bones on there?
Mind leans a lot too, but I've jacked the rear up by putting shorter dog bones on. When on the centre stand the rear wheel is only just off the ground.
|
Show Posts
