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Messages - AdieR
1
« on: 01 April 2014, 04:47:10 pm »
You must have a lot of space to carry two Rotties about!
2
« on: 31 March 2014, 09:17:01 pm »
You running solo or two-up / loaded? What's your front tyre pressure?
I had my bike running 36F/42R, and it were horrible, taking it down to 33F /36R improved things immensely; at 41 / 42psi, it can be quite amazing the difference in tyre warm-up times.
3
« on: 31 March 2014, 09:10:24 pm »
A big, f***-off chain, tied round a solid object should be your first line of defence. If it's immobilised by a chain, your average chav / opportunist thief will leave it alone (most thefts are opportunist, pro thieves are a different thing).
Alarms are a waste of time IMO - nobody takes notice of them anymore. If your alarm is under the seat, you'll use up your already-limited space.
Datatag or Smartwater might be useful if a bike is stripped for parts, BikeTrac might be useful to prevent it getting that far.
A cover can help disguise the bike's identity (to prevent cloning).
Professional thieves however, will know every security system going, and how to beat it, and nothing short of an armed guard will stop them.
The cost of any security is far cheaper than replacing a bike that's been hoovered up by our nations less-honest citizens (and the resulting increased insurance).
4
« on: 23 March 2014, 09:45:02 pm »
The FZ6 uses a de-tuned (or re-tuned, for more low-mid range power, and re-tuned again on the S2 bikes).
Many people will tell you that an ECU swap will give you the R6 power (and delivery) but not so; the cylinder heads are different and (as far as I know anyway) are NOT a straight swap. Even between the '04-06 FZ6 and the '07 FZ6 S2 bikes, the fuel maps are different, along with numerous cosmetic and chassis changes (different swingarm, front mudguard and differences in the fairing. Can't speak for the FZS bikes, but the FZ6 and R6 certainly don't share a Haynes manual either.
The principal for de-tuning (or re-tuning) an engine is a purely financial one; it costs a hell of a lot of dosh to design an engine (and indeed, a bike) to meet a given target (in the R6 case, it was developed ultimately for track success). By taking an existing (if previous-year) engine, modifying it, and wrapping it up in a budget chassis / suspension combo, we the people get real-world power and performance for the road, at a sensible price, thus increasing sales (ie, off-setting some of the development costs, by sharing an engine across different models). Suzuki's Bandit and Honda's Hornet 600s came about exactly the same way (de-tuned, ex sports-bike motors).
5
« on: 18 March 2014, 10:40:24 pm »
You say you've tested the battery and it was "OK" - what's "OK"?
I think (bearing in mind with limited info, and from a distance) either your battery and/or reg / rec is kaput.
6
« on: 18 March 2014, 10:34:39 pm »
Red FZS600 with Givi luggage (T reg, ending AER) near the retail park in Scarbados.
7
« on: 18 March 2014, 10:30:29 pm »
ABS has good and bad points: it may help in some situations, and hinder in others. It's a tool, not a be-all-and-end-all magic wand.
One risk of any safety feature is the human on top taking increased risks ("beating" the safety advancement). No technology on the planet will prevent someone throwing themselves down the road if they're sufficiently determined. It isn't a replacement for riding skills, or good observation.
My bike doesn't have ABS, and personally I don't want it either (for the time being anyway).
8
« on: 15 March 2014, 09:06:14 pm »
'05 plate Fazer thou (plate ending JLU) in Scarborough last Wednesday, running with an Aprilia).
9
« on: 08 February 2014, 01:27:19 am »
Haven't heard the damage yet, only that it's been recovered.
10
« on: 08 February 2014, 12:34:08 am »
Update: now found, and back with it's owner.
12
« on: 17 January 2014, 02:28:54 pm »
I remember having a strange fault like this on my S2 tail lights; it turned out to be no more than a poor connection at a plug / socket. A clean up and some WD40, and all was well.
Are your new indicators the same as the originals, or are they LED types?
13
« on: 08 January 2014, 11:26:36 am »
Depends on the type of paint used, and the length of time it's been there.
The first thing I'd try is plenty of hot, soapy water along with one of those green pan scourers, which will be less abrasive than chemicals (not sure on the FZS, but the later FZ definitely uses plastic lenses).
What might also help with some of the more stubborn bits, is a thin, flexible steel rule (one which has plenty of "give", and will bend, rather than dig into the lens).
Bear in mind that if it was "ordinary" paint, some of it may crack and flake in time anyhow (plastic components need plasticised paint, to flex with the plastic when the bike moves), which standard paints can't do.
14
« on: 07 January 2014, 02:39:01 pm »
What mileage / condition are your tyres in if the front went on a year ago? How long has the back been on?
15
« on: 01 January 2014, 11:54:45 pm »
Haynes manuals are useful, don't know your location but your local college will be useful for the practical element.
Many college courses will be car based (but still useful for bike work), IIRC there's a bike-specific course available in Hull.
Being able to strip and rebuild is one thing, being able to diagnose a fault (esp perhaps electrical faults, which confuse many people) can be a whole other matter.
16
« on: 29 December 2013, 03:30:42 pm »
Difficult to tell without a picture, but I'll confirm there are no marks on my bike's instruments.
I were thinking possibly water ingress, but my bike lives outside, and gets used all year round.
I'll agree it won't be cheap, might be some in breakers yards (I think the later thou's used the same clocks), maybe a friendly TV engineer or similar is worth a bell?
I've heard of Ducati clocks suffering with water and failing - but not the Fazer.
17
« on: 14 December 2013, 11:33:59 pm »
Heating it up is probably a bad idea in that it could cause it's own issues.
If there is plenty material, then it might be worth taking it to an engineering machine shop and get them to skim it - but check that machining won't take the disc thickness to / near it's service limit.
If it were my bike, I'd personally bin them discs, but I'm quite fussy.
18
« on: 10 December 2013, 09:09:24 pm »
Red FZS 600 in Stockport town centre, parked up near the Merseyway shops, didn't get number though.
19
« on: 05 December 2013, 08:22:54 am »
My inclination is that if it isn't broke, don't fix it. Are you running the bike over winter, or storing / working on it?
20
« on: 04 December 2013, 10:11:23 am »
I have a pair of Ixon gloves, paid about £25 for them, and I swear by them in cold weather; go try them.
21
« on: 04 December 2013, 08:06:50 am »
Genuine Yam parts are always expensive (any bodywork parts seem to be especially stupid).
Tried the Partfinder site?
22
« on: 27 November 2013, 01:35:32 pm »
Nights 2200-0600, inc weekends, with 2 days off midweek; days off seem to be random. Social life, what social life??
23
« on: 14 November 2013, 06:40:03 am »
First thing I'd check is your battery; they get a kicking in this weather. A knackered reg / rec is feasible, r/r's are usually the weak point in any bike's charging system.
24
« on: 14 November 2013, 06:36:43 am »
The usual 2 sides to an argument - there are twats on L plates, but on the other hand, everyone needs to start somewhere; some (though not all) will go on to do their bike test. Some will learn road safety the hard way though....
25
« on: 06 November 2013, 12:14:58 am »
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