Always thought discs were way too thin to be "straightened"?Any warping of a disc will keep pushing your pads apart so your initial grab at the lever would feel unresponsive.Other than that it can take a few goes at bleeding before getting them sharp.
Personally, if i wanted to keep a low budget then i'd consider 2nd hand original discs.
You can get brand new Ferodo discs for £108 each from M&P.
Quote from: darrsi on 17 November 2014, 09:15:17 pmPersonally, if i wanted to keep a low budget then i'd consider 2nd hand original discs.The discs seem pretty straight, well under 1mm of wobble. And then there's no guarantee that 2nd hand discs are any straighter.Quote from: Tefer on 17 November 2014, 09:17:15 pmYou can get brand new Ferodo discs for £108 each from M&P.And this is why i don't want to spend on new discs.Brakes are important and that's quite cheap as new OEM ones are about £200 each. Brakes and Tyres i would not scrimp on.I know what you mean though, not easy.
Out of interest: What should the thickness of the front brake discs be, anyway?
Take off your front lever and clean and grease EVERYTHING, it can help too.
Another overlooked simple improvement is clean and oil under the pivot of the rear brake pedal.Crud builds up due to shite weather, but once cleaned and maintained regularly can make the rear feel very snappy, and it takes seconds to do.
Quote from: darrsi on 17 November 2014, 11:18:55 pmAnother overlooked simple improvement is clean and oil under the pivot of the rear brake pedal.Crud builds up due to shite weather, but once cleaned and maintained regularly can make the rear feel very snappy, and it takes seconds to do. Rear is plenty snappy!Noticed as much with all the extra rear braking i'm having to do to compensate for the lacking front.
If the problem was not there before you changed the fitting then it is most likely air.I presume you are bleeding them correctly.Pump the lever, hold it, release the nipple, keeping pressure on the lever. do up the nipple, release the lever. Restart pumping the lever again.If tying up the lever like His Dudeness says does not work try bleed the lines from the master cylinder down by loosening the banjo bolt like the bleed nipples. If no success, remove the calipers one side at the time and push the pistons back fully, use a clamp or something to hold them in the fully pushed back position. Now bleed them again, you will need a helper to pump the lever, while you open and close the bleed nipple.Sometime air can get trapped around banjo or in the calipers and this normally resolves it.
So; I cleaned my callipers/pads/pistons today.Rear was all good, but the front right had one piston pop out, now my brakes are worse, and there still might be air trapped in the bridging line over the mudguard. Also discovered a leak on the double set of banjos on the right side.Brakes work, but wouldn't like to have to use them in an emergency.Back down to the garage in the morning for a proper look, new washers and some investigation.