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Messages - helloindustries
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51
« on: 19 December 2014, 01:26:11 pm »
How are you working your mpg out mate? You're not filling up when the light comes on and thinking you're putting 16L in when you're only putting about 8 in are you? Might be your light coming on early and you've not realised - don't laugh, I've read that happening before!
Taking capacity of tank, cost to fill, noting that when the light comes on, it's at just about a fiver's worth of fuel. Also using the trip meter and offsetting that with cost to fill to max. If that makes any sense. I ran it dry recently (to my shame) and the trip meter still read less than 100 miles. To answer other questions: Bike has done 42000 miles. There are no fuel leaks. Haven't noticed any kind of fluid coming out of the exhaust. Everything else is getting looked at in January.
52
« on: 19 December 2014, 10:23:14 am »
- Carb balance - I've been meaning to do this anyway
- Clean air filter/plugs/oil/coolant - Plugs/oil/filter are all recent (less than 5 months old) but will check. Intending to replace air filter with a K&N
- Correct tyre pressures - Yep
- Correct chain tension/slack - Yep
- Stop unnecessarily ragging it - Aww... Well; I don't take it over 8k revs, and i tend to ride between 3.5 and 4k 95% of the time.
- Smoother acceleration - Aww...
- Lose any excess baggage - Well, i *could* do with losing some weight...
- What do the spark plugs look like, running rich ? - Will check
- How is your idle, all four chokes closing properly - Will check
- If motor running smooth and good, plugs nice tan colour, fuel leak ? - Seems to be - Will check - No.
I'm getting about 85-95 miles to a tank right now.
53
« on: 18 December 2014, 10:10:33 pm »
'hoy all.
I'm getting about 25mpg right now.
I ride 100% inner-city, so i get that there's a reduction in the economy rating of 55mpg, but surely this is too much?
I don't rev the arse off of it, and i tend to pootle along at about 3.5-4k revs. I do like to accelerate up to the limit where i can, but it's not often.
54
« on: 14 December 2014, 02:01:36 pm »
had same problem, but thankfully it is sorted. 1 time it would show full and the next it would show empty even after I fill up. What I found after stripping a few things off was that the terminals under the tank for the sender unit were a bit green and the rubber cover was twisted. Dismantled the tank, cleaned the terminals, untwisted the rubber cover, put a piece of sponge on the frame where the fuel pump is as when the tank is lowered the terminals maybe touching and earthing against the crossbar under the tank. Did all this and since then had accurate readings on my gauge. 
I will also try this.
55
« on: 12 December 2014, 03:49:56 pm »
Looks like i'll have to do similar.
Mine either shows below empty, above full or half when it's actually full.
Recently had the fuel warning light decide not to warn me. Had to have the bike picked up this morning which was embarrassing...
56
« on: 08 December 2014, 07:50:14 pm »
I've used them a fair bit. Good for the price. Obviously not up to Snapon standards, but certainly worth the money, especially with the lifetime warranty etc.
I'd love a set of the 200 myself.
57
« on: 02 December 2014, 06:05:35 pm »
Finally got to the bottom of my leaky right front brake. Hopefully it'll be the last time...
58
« on: 28 November 2014, 06:27:58 pm »
This brings forth the real question: Why are there not pinlock glasses?
Do you mean a prescription insert?
If so it wouldn't work, too much distance from your eyes, and your peripheral vision would make the prescription extremely difficult.
Well; That answers that! I guess i'd better get a breath-box...
59
« on: 28 November 2014, 04:50:02 pm »
This brings forth the real question: Why are there not pinlock glasses?
60
« on: 27 November 2014, 09:22:09 pm »
Don't listen to that shite ..... Tyre weld is the worst thing you can do.... FFS ... I Keep postin the answer on these questions but here we go again..
It seems like a good idea, but i can't help but feel very uneasy about even considering to buy it based on the dodgy-as-fuck looking website and branding. It just screams 'scam' I'm not saying the product itself is bad or anything, but they really need to sort out the look and feel.
61
« on: 27 November 2014, 11:10:31 am »
interested in the music apps mentioned but can I download these for my phone free?
mate in work pays for spotify and seems able to listen to anything he wants, I'd like to do that safely but for free
cheers
These are all for a windows pc. To do what you want; try the YouTube app. YouTube us surprisingly good for music.
62
« on: 26 November 2014, 08:16:31 pm »
I believe the defrag and disk cleanup are now automated background processes from Windows 7 onwards (maybe even Vista). I'm not sure you can even get to the options anymore except for perhaps using the Safe Boot thing. Happy to be proven wrong, just letting people know
CCleaner is definitely a recommended tool, though I haven't personally used it in a while. Usually the best advice is to always read what you are blindly clicking "Next" to when installing anything 
I haven't had to deal with a virus or malware in a very long time and I'm quite content to just stick with the built-in Windows Anti-Virus. The best defence is good knowledge and it becomes hard to recommend applications that just "fix" things.
Still, good work from helloindustries in trying to help
Correct. Win7 onwards don't really need defraging. Ccleaner: Can be useful, but yeah; Extreme caution needed. Best defence against malware is common sense. An audio or video file shouldn't be an .exe You do not want to use any 'download accelerators' You cannot 'download' more RAM. And that 'sexygirlsscreensaver.exe (or .scr)'? Avoid.
63
« on: 26 November 2014, 06:42:33 pm »
I have the low sound issue on my tablet pc if I'm watching films. Does anyone know of a solution.
Cheers.
It could be that the films themselves are quiet. Perhaps have a look in the sound settings? Maybe some kind of normalisation is applied to media being played?
64
« on: 26 November 2014, 02:30:15 pm »
Got some hot-grips fitted. 
65
« on: 25 November 2014, 11:51:19 am »
I can see the equal pressure theory working, but there are exactly the same number of joints with either method.
Anyway: Fixed now.
Turns out that the washers on the right side were in need of replacing.
66
« on: 24 November 2014, 11:56:34 pm »
Why are you bridging across the mudguard?  The best method for the fazer is 2 lines from the master cylinder, one to each caliper.
Because that's how it was done. May end up the other way, though. See how it goes tomorrow. Is there any specific reason that it's the best method?
67
« on: 24 November 2014, 07:58:34 pm »
Serviced my brakes. They were pretty gunked up. All clean and ready for winter now.
68
« on: 24 November 2014, 07:57:31 pm »
So; I cleaned my callipers/pads/pistons today.
Rear was all good, but the front right had one piston pop out, now my brakes are worse, and there still might be air trapped in the bridging line over the mudguard. Also discovered a leak on the double set of banjos on the right side.
Brakes work, but wouldn't like to have to use them in an emergency.
Back down to the garage in the morning for a proper look, new washers and some investigation.
69
« on: 20 November 2014, 11:02:44 pm »
If the problem was not there before you changed the fitting then it is most likely air.
I presume you are bleeding them correctly.
Pump the lever, hold it, release the nipple, keeping pressure on the lever. do up the nipple, release the lever. Restart pumping the lever again.
If tying up the lever like His Dudeness says does not work try bleed the lines from the master cylinder down by loosening the banjo bolt like the bleed nipples.
If no success, remove the calipers one side at the time and push the pistons back fully, use a clamp or something to hold them in the fully pushed back position. Now bleed them again, you will need a helper to pump the lever, while you open and close the bleed nipple.
Sometime air can get trapped around banjo or in the calipers and this normally resolves it.
They've had a standard bleed at the garage which improved the feel, but i might well whip the callipers off and do as advised.
70
« on: 19 November 2014, 01:05:35 am »
I don't see how it's even debatable. Facts are facts.
For the average biker on average roads; Having ABS is preferable to not having it. Shame it's a bit expensive.
I wish i had it on my bike as there's always that delay/doubt when slamming the brakes on and having to keep off the full force for fear of locking up. That wouldn't be an issue with ABS.
If i can afford it; I'd prefer to have my next bike with ABS.
71
« on: 19 November 2014, 01:00:57 am »
I had the front brakes bled at both ends today, no air that we could see, but the brakes feel a bit better.
72
« on: 17 November 2014, 11:20:08 pm »
Another overlooked simple improvement is clean and oil under the pivot of the rear brake pedal.
Crud builds up due to shite weather, but once cleaned and maintained regularly can make the rear feel very snappy, and it takes seconds to do.
Rear is plenty snappy! Noticed as much with all the extra rear braking i'm having to do to compensate for the lacking front.
73
« on: 17 November 2014, 11:17:47 pm »
Take off your front lever and clean and grease EVERYTHING, it can help too.
Good idea.
74
« on: 17 November 2014, 10:20:01 pm »
Out of interest: What should the thickness of the front brake discs be, anyway?
75
« on: 17 November 2014, 10:14:56 pm »
Well, i'll see how i get on with bleeding, and work outwards from there, i guess.
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