• However, H4 bulbs might cause a problem
• I believe that one of the new MOT failures being introduced is that low beam must stay on when high beam is selected
• other options for H4 bulbs include stuff like this

• This whole thread has been about H4 hi/lo......:-/
• I seriously doubt that and it won't/can't apply to vehicles where there Hi/Lo beams come on separately from factory like the FZS 1000.
• This kit 'could' pass an MOT, but only with a much larger baffle. I know because my very first HID kit was like this and stock baffle isn't anywhere near large enough to provide an effective low beam cut-off. And that's only half the problem, the Hi beam halogen bulb is so poorly placed (its 5mm off-axis) you get fuck all hi beam.

The ONLY half way descent solution/conclusion I have arrived at for the telescopic type H4 Hi/Lo is as follows -

• Construct a better 'hood' that surrounds the bulb, in order to close the gap between the inner baffle and the hood itself and have a bigger slot in the side of the hood for closer to stock Hi beam.
• Construct a better quality moving assembly with better tolerances as the gap between the housing the moving part on the majority of HID bulbs is far to large which results in the bulb laying at an off-axis angle.
• The above assy. dosent travel far enough, every H4 Hi/Low HID bulb I have examined either sit reasonably well for low beam but don't go back far enough for Hi beam or visa versa.

I have looked into a non moving H4 Hi/Lo that incorporates two arc envelops inside the one bulb, but:

• When you switch to Hi beam the warm up time could take a few seconds which is unacceptable, but I haven't researched this yet.
• The baffle that sits right next to the bulb to cover the low beam arc on most bulbs dosent cover enough.
• You would need to install 4 ballasts instead of the usual 2.
• And some of theses dual arc bulbs aren't directly in-line, on of the arc envelopes is little off-axis (see this image http://img.alibaba.com/wsphoto/v0/321736697/The-best-quality-H4-4-hid-lamp-HID-Dual-Beam-Bulb.jpg)

The only other options I know of are to either get a pair from driving lights or Hi/Lo projector to enhance existing low beam of the main headlight, or go the extreme route and retro fit a pair of projector Hi/Lo units inside the FZS headlight unit. Someone mentioned about fitting 'Angel eyes' this can be done, but also requires the opening of the FZS headlight unit depending on wither you fit just an angel eye kit or projectors unit with built in Angel Eyes. And lastly LED driving lights, as this has only recently become affordable and the simplest solution as I dont believe they are effected by the MOT. Bikeviz are doing a pair of LED spots for either Hi only or lo only beam - http://www.bikevis.com/motorcycle-cree-led-aux-light.html, but I haven'y seen any review of these yet or even how good or bad they are. Found a cheaper version that looks the same from HongKong on ebay, could be cheap enough to warrant a punt.

Cant seem to find the hugger like the one I used to have on my previous FZS1000, it extended below the swing arm. And an end can of some description, would like to see what people have that they want to sell.

• Most modern kits (including the ones I have fitted to bikes and cars) use bulbs with the same light source placement as the units they are replacing.
• But also makes it clear that this is their 'opinion', it is up to the courts to decide on a case by case basis if an offence has occured.

• Got some info on the make and model of these kits? as I would be curious to see the construction and implementation etc.
• As you inferred, it may be the DFT 'opinion' based on the ruling coming from europe but, I have been told categorically by several MOT stations that in the not to distance future HID kits will be a definite MOT fail.

But we are getting off track a little, we have both fitted and fit HID kits. But until the law isn't a grey area and quality HID kits become a reality, I was suggesting that people may want to avoid trying to retro fit HID kits to thier main headlamp. Another way to look at it is, now or in near future an insurance co. could try an argue as you have fitted a HID kit, that you have invalidated your MOT and there for your insurance as per their T &Cs. But this is another whole other legal can of worms etc. But if someone fits HID driving lights I don't believe these are subject to the MOT other than that if forward facing need be of a white light.

And yes all those imbeciles out their with blue/purple HID's are just making a rod for thier own backs.

What I meant was, its possibly late enough for some of the parts to be have made in the Brazil or one of the others where the quality can be questionable.

Hid kit 35w H4 high/low beam I've got a set but form Hids direct they do slim ballasts and the correct high/low bulbs and 6k looks awesome, also the latest kits Hids direct do come with the cap over the bulb to prevent dazzling oncoming traffic.

Trouble is when fitting HID bulbs to a "reflector" type headlight unit like the one in the fazer is the all the side scatter, which will dazzle other traffic and why it wont pass an MOT.

FYI. with regard to HID kits as of next year there will be fully illegal not just a grey area like it has been for the last few years. If you still want to fit a HID kit then your best of getting a pair of projector driving lights and retro fitting HIDS into them. The beam pattern will be far superior (I have them on my bandit) and if you wire in an auxiliary switch it wont effect the MOT, but technically the police may still have an issue with it. This is because the rules state you need projector based lights as well as self leveling suspension (and no bike I know of has the latter)

Another option which is perfectly legal is LED driving lights, they draw next to no power but the price is a bit steep -

http://www.riderz.co.uk/headlights-and-tail-lights/visionx-solstice-solo-wide-light.html

Thanks for that had not heard of the g/box issues.

Its a bit disappointing as the VFR12 is Honda's flagship. Honda like a lot of other makers have relocated thier manufacturing, so quality and reliability isn't what it once was.

what year is your bike, im wonder if this is a Brazil made part..

Luke it sounds like he needs a complete gear lever assy?

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/YAMAHA-FZS1000-5LV-FZS-1000-FAZER-GEAR-CHANGE-PEDAL-LINKAGE-2001-2005-/251113818962?pt=UK_Motorcycle_Parts&hash=item3a778ccb52

i really fancied the vfr1200 but sat on one and didn't like the riding position,

Yeah loads of people have said that, also the gearbox on them are as week and shit - loads of warranty repairs.

Its a Rifle screen with side supports.

The end cans and pips look awesome, shame its let down but the piss poor placement of the indicators and long with the ruined the rear cowling caused but said placement.

If I ever find a set of cans/pipes like this, I'll just cut the cans down so they dont fowl the indicators.

Thanks for the heads up on that.

Just contact the company (Cactus Composites) and tell them to make sure  that the two bottom halves are the same thickness, otherwise you'll have to do what I did.

Also when bidding you may want to factor in a few costs - belly pan cost £90 (should have stuck to the £75 budget), £150 getting it colour matched and powder coating on the brackets was £10. But when you consider the original Yamaha item new cost over £200 I don't feel to bad.

You say your clock lights are dimmer than most; is it possible you've got the wrong bulb/s fitted (I'm assuming you have bulbs and not LEDs)? Have they always been that way, or is it a recent problem (how long have you had the bike)?

Its been like that since I bought it and I haven't had the clocks of to check for sure, but I would imagine there are those normal mini 12v bulbs in there. The other thing I forgot to mention is that when the indicators are going I can see the headlight and the clocks slightly dimming, which is what made me think I have a bad connection and or a wire in the front sub loom that's not thick enough to do the job. If it was just the clocks I would replace them all with LED (which I may do anyway)