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Messages - PieEater
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76
« on: 12 August 2021, 11:33:10 am »
Don't know if it's been mentioned but make sure the is nothing under the seat that could possibly obstruct the airbox snorkle and also take off the airbox lid and make sure nothing has got sucked into the filter and is obstructing the air intake. I had a similar issue although in all gears. When I was riding the bike it would be fine until ~6000rpm but after then it would bog down and stutter.
When I bought the bike I asked the garage to fit an optimate charging lead under the seat which they did but they left on the large plastic instruction label which was near the air intake. When I accelerated the suction from the air intake pulled the label towards it and around 6000rpm there was sufficient suction that the label was flat against the intake and blocked most of the air getting to the carbs. Removing the label and making sure the airway was clear resolved the issue instantly.
77
« on: 18 July 2021, 05:17:20 pm »
An alternative to lowering the bike would be to get the seat re-profiled so you are sat lower but I don't know how much that would affect comfort.
78
« on: 17 July 2021, 05:07:26 pm »
Don't know if it's been mentioned but can't seem to see. But my 2004 imported version does not have the hazard lights or the pass button for the lights This is an easy fix, just get the left have switch gear for a UK model. The 2x connectors should be there already to except the 2x plugs coming from the UK parts.
Thanks guys I have amended the import section accordingly.
79
« on: 17 July 2021, 04:59:04 pm »
Shorter dogbones to raise the rear have a couple of noticeable potential benefits. They alter the weight distribution of the bike putting more weight on the front which improves steering responsiveness making the bike more agile through corners. They also alter the suspension geometry effectively increasing the compression damping which potentially improves the handling further especially if the shock is old, tired and / or OEM.
I have no experience with longer dogbones but I imagine that you will get the reverse effects of fitting shorter ones so if considering fitting them I would recommend lowering the bike down the front forks ~15mm if not already done and increasing the compression damping on the rear shock if available / working.
You can sometimes find polished / chromed / painted dogbones but to be honest they are so hidden away from sight you only get to see parts of them when you are on your knees cleaning the bike.
Have a look on ebay for FZS1000 lowering kit.
80
« on: 21 June 2021, 07:25:52 am »
81
« on: 15 June 2021, 07:24:40 am »
Hi and welcome  Just to add to what Gaz66 has said, I think the general advice would be to get the EXUP working so you can enjoy the bike as Yamaha intended, with it working and a 4 degree advancer the low down grunt and smooth power delivery is amazing and great for sensible riding especially with the misses on the back. However as already said if you take the valve out and ride it you will still be able to enjoy the bike and you won't miss not having the EXUP as you wont know any different, just don't ride a bike with a working one 
82
« on: 15 May 2021, 04:26:32 pm »
I would advise posting on the For Sale & Wanted section you may get more views there.
84
« on: 09 April 2021, 02:42:06 pm »
Hi and welcome to the forums I have no personal experience of the FZ1 other than knowing it can be ridden blisteringly quickly in the right hands (what happened to Malc?) but the same can be said for most bikes. I have had my Gen1 (FZS1000) for 10 years now and that is the longest I have ever held onto a bike, I always found something on previous bikes I didn't quite gel with. My requirements for a bike sound similar to yours, something that I can hoon around on through the twisties when the red mist rises but equally something that the Mrs enjoys being on the back of for day trips out bimbling around the countryside, and the Gen1 fits both bills and pretty much everything inbetween. Having said that the suspension has been upgraded at both ends (vital), the bike has been fitted with an Ivan's kit for better fuelling (very nice to have), an ignition advancer (bit more bottom end grunt for the sake of a bit off peak power) and different bars (slightly more sporty feel). I guess my main concern in recommending a Gen1 is the bikes are getting long in the tooth so you will need to take your time and avoid impulse buys to get one that has been well looked after, but if you take your time, do your research and budget for suspension refurbs you could find yourself a good long term bike that you will be really happy with. If you haven't already done so check out the FAQ's for both models at the top of this section, and post back with any questions. If you spot a bike that takes your interest then post back as it may be someone on here has some knowledge of it or might even be willing to check it out for you if they are in the area.
85
« on: 07 April 2021, 02:32:57 pm »
It’s interesting to find the various combinations of bar height and reach that owners find to be their ideal position for comfort. In my case I just followed the very popular choice of 758s, before adding the GYTR risers at a later date, which actually lower the bars nearer to the top yoke. I find this forms a comfortable weight bearing triangle between feet, backside and arms. But what’s ideal for me could be quite torturous for someone else. It’s a funny old game, this motorcycling.
I have the same setup, it's a bit more sporty allowing you to get your weight over the front if you want to get a move on through the twisties  but is also comfortable enough and relatively upright just to bimble about on with the Mrs on the back. Obviously not the right setup for anyone wanting a more upright position though .......
86
« on: 30 January 2021, 01:49:10 pm »
I think you should just add this to the main Gen2 FAQ I did think about that, but its a whole page all by itself.
In which case put a link to this thread in the FAQ so it doesn't get lost !?!
87
« on: 25 January 2021, 02:25:54 pm »
You don't really say what you mean by the riding experience is not pleasant and you are finding the limits of the suspension, there may be tweaks you can make to improve this on the existing suspension. Most folks believe that if suspension is too soft and bottoming out you need to add more preload on the springs when in fact the starting point should be dialling in more compression damping, a couple of clicks at a time and checking if this has made the ride better or worse. A £20 jack-up kit will help as it not only puts more weight on the front to improve steering it also slightly changes the geometry of the rear suspension firming up the compression characteristics of the rear shock. Dropping the yokes down the forks also helps with steering response taking more weight from the rear of the bike (at this point you may want to add a bit more preload to the front).
89
« on: 09 January 2021, 11:27:53 am »
I spent about 15 minutes trying to find plug caps on ebay and parts sites trying to be helpful, didn't realise if you wanted to find plug caps you needed to search for ignition coils  Oh well lesson learned  Nice find b1k3rdude 
90
« on: 08 January 2021, 02:23:29 pm »
Yamaha part number from as per Fowlers Parts is 4XV-82370-01 not sure if that's £93.68 for 1 or all 4 though  They look like rocking horse poo to get hold of reasonably so have a look in the For Sale & Wanted to see if anyone is breaking a bike, might be worthwhile sending b1k3rdude a PM or posting on his For Sale thread to see if he has any  Top Tip from Mike (Falcon269) if you're having issues in this area trim the leads a little where the caps screw in and refit as the ends can go brittle and split adversley affecting the connection through to the plugs.
92
« on: 25 December 2020, 05:18:07 pm »
Any shock will feel better than a worn out 15+ year old OEM one that was never really fit for purpose in the first place. The advantage of buying a shock direct from Nitron is they will discuss with you your weight, useage and riding style then make sure the spring, valving and compression is perfectly suited for your requirements, that way you really are getting the best possible experience.
94
« on: 28 November 2020, 04:14:33 pm »
Given the price you've quoted I'm assuming you've got all of the parts from the dealer and so it's probably too late to do anything about it but whilst I'd definately go with OEM seals, I'd happily go with pattern bushes and dust covers from somewhere like K-Tech or Wemoto so maybe get the other bushes from there as they'll be less than half the price as it would be daft not to replace the bushes as a set.
I'd be interested to know if the Seal Mate works so keep us posted.
95
« on: 28 November 2020, 11:06:48 am »
Has anyone had any difficulty fitting a Nitron road shock?
Some great replies by Gnasher and b1k3rdude, they are very good shocks. As Gnasher implies if buying second hand I would personally factor in the costs of sending the shock to Nitron and getting it serviced and resprung / revalved for your weight and riding style, or at least bare this in mind as something that you will need to do to get the best out of the shock and the bike. Nitron's service team tend to be quiet at this time of year so you may get a discount on servicing if you call them and ask for prices. Fitting is straightforward and I couldn't add anything to what b1k3rdude has said, I use a chock for taking the weight of the rear when dissasembling the linkage as sometimes you might want to go up or down a couple of mm and a chock helps with this. I recall the top mounting bolt for the shock can be tricky to get to and I had to use a universal joint on my socket set but I don't have an extensive tool kit so other methods may work. Obviously if you have any specific questions then post back.
96
« on: 20 November 2020, 11:50:30 am »
Cleaning and lubing the pivot bolt is a good shout if this doesn't work you could take the calipers off and see if all of the pistons are moving relatively freely, the piston seals if they haven't already been replaced will be long past their best and may be causing the pistons to bind or seize. Another possibility is the master cyliner, you can get a repair kit fairly inexpensively but I would check the stuff that you can do without spending any money first.
97
« on: 19 November 2020, 06:05:27 pm »
Enjoy and let us know how the test run went 
98
« on: 18 November 2020, 06:49:44 pm »
Yeh the original Yamaha 'ends seem lovely and heavy. I wonder if I wreck the Renthals trying to tap them will some aftermarket 'expanding' type still fit..?
I've got a cheap pillar drill in the garage which will hopefully do the switchgear holes, if I can manage to mark the right spot. I'm just putting it off really!
I haven't done it myself but I have had 2 lots of renthals tapped out by a local workshop without issue so shouldn't be a problem. I would try mounting the switchgear without drilling holes I never had to as I beleive that the locating pin is plastic and will just compress down onto the bar either that or I took a bit off the end, either way I've not had any issue with the unit slipping. It will take you a while to find the bar position and switch position that suits you so drilling a hole 'on spec' will envitably not be where you end up wanting it. /EDIT: ***** auto format. In addition to what I already posted when I originally installed the bars and had them where I thought I'd want them after 10 minutes riding I got really bad wrist ache and it did take a number of attempts to get everything set up so it was comfortable so I'd definately advise against drilling the bars for the switchgear mount.
99
« on: 18 November 2020, 06:43:04 pm »
It's not the length of the bones that matter but the distance between the holes, the shorter the distance between the holes the higher the back will rise. Theoretically the 50 mm jack up kit could be physically longer if there was more meat around the holes but the holes should be closer together than stock or a 25mm kit, bearing in mind we're only talking a few mm. The ones you linked to are similar to the ones I bought (also from ebay) so I wouldn't worry too much. When fitting them use a chock under the wheel to raise it up a bit, that will save you wrestling with the assembly when trying to get it back together, and have some grease ready to lube all the roller bearings etc.As robbo says it's a really good mod which greatly improves the flickability of the bike through the twisties, it also firms up shock compression which will help a lot if you still have the tired old original. I would say the 50mm kit with the forks in the standard position is about the same difference in handling as the 25mm kit with the yoke dropped down the forks by ~15mm, the first option is better for taller riders the second for shorter. Lowering the yoke with the 50mm kit adversely affected the handling at least for me so I wouldn't reccomend it.Yup it was RAF Wittering, on a visit to my realtives who live just outside Peterborough, here it is with my uncles blade and the harrier.
100
« on: 05 November 2020, 04:27:22 pm »
I can highly recommend Wezmoto lines. I replaced my aged HEL ones with them in the summer. You wouldn't tell the difference in terms of finish and quality
That will be because Wez makes his lines in the Hel factory with their parts so they are exactly the same minus the Hel branding 
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