Fazer Owners Club - Unofficial
Bikes, Hints'n'Tips => Fazer 1000/FZ1 corner => Topic started by: L8onz on 24 December 2017, 08:36:36 pm
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Hey Guys,
I've noticed rubber hoses hanging out the bottom of the right side of my bike, anyone any ideas what they are for? (pic below)
I've noticed these wires underneath, are these for the exup valve that the previous owner had removed?? (pic below)
Also noticed the plastic on the carbs looks rather...........cracked.......is this normal or something to be worried about? (pic below)
Cheers guys
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The pipes are over flow and breather pipes and nothing to worry about.
The cables are ex exup cables.
And finally, Holy crap!
I'd get those carb rubbers changed asap.
Is this your first bike?
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1) Breather / overflow hoses at least one of these is the fuel tank breather hose.
2) Yes, shame as the EXUP makes a big difference to the low down power delivery.
3) It's my understanding that the intake rubbers do crack externally due to age but internally they are usually sound with the odd exception. Falcon 269 AKA Mike would be able to confirm this as he has worked on hundreds of these in the past. I assume you have a scottoiler or similar on the bike due to the hose fitted to the vacuum stub rather than the usual cap.
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Glad the tubes are nothing to worry about, may have to look into tucking them away somewhere as it looks abit daft them just hanging there.
To be fair, I'm happy with the performance, its not like I'm going to race much on the road anyways, it's just one less thing to maintain on the bike.
The cracks do look like an outer casing, just had a gander at replacements and can't beleive how expensive they are. Is this a urgent job or could it wait for a little while (couple of months)?
I have a scottoiler, but its ran to the rear sprocket for lubing chain, thinking of removing it as I'm happy with spraying lube on the chain regularly, I know its being done then. Will have a gander at the tube on the rubbers in pic and see where it goes.
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If the bike is performing well enough then there is no hurry to replace the intake rubbers if that's what you want to do. They turn up on eBay fairly regularly so just take your time to find a decent set rather than rushing into buying ones that are in the same or worse condition than the ones you have.
To be fair the Scottoiler doesn't look like it's doing a great job with the chain anyhow. I've ditched them on the couple of bikes I've bought with them fitted as they didn't seem to be doing anything and like you am happy to lube the chain myself.
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it is not just the cracks in the inlet manifold rubbers, they are starting to laminate also, while this is OK on the outside, should, and I say should, this happen on the inside it will not be OK.
Those rubbers as Celtic said need changing, so why not change them now while you are possibly not riding the bike so much because of inclement weather.
The last thing you want is next Spring for the rubbers start leaking and drawing air into the manifold messing with the mixture the bike runs crap and has to come off the road, just as the good weather arrives.
Anyway your only putting off something that you need to do very soon, if you decide when to do it, you will feel much better about doing the job rather the broken down bike dictating the terms.
What the F do I know :lol I am not even man enough for a Mighty Thou :'(
If one of the pipes that you mention is a fuel tank breather be a little careful re-routing it as it is quite close to the collector on the exhaust, also you don't want to kink or pinch it by re-routing it and causing sharp bends in it.
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The pipes hanging down to the side of the engine are in that position so that if anything does drip from them it is not in the path of the back tyre.
If the cables from the exup are disconnected has the exup valve been removed or is it seized?
Either way no exup will affect the low down running on a gen1, and new ones are very expensive and secondhand working ones are very rare.
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@ PieEater
The bikes running as it should from what I can tell, I've only had 'Bluey' (daughter choose the name) for a few weeks now. I'd never buy second hand parts, don't know for sure how long they'll last either.
@tommyardin
I'd make sure the tube still do their job, just be nice to hide them abit.
@slappy
The exup valve was removed when a new exhaust system was put on, I knew it wasn't on the bike before I bought it. I've read it dulls down the power abit without the exup valve in the lower revs, if this is all that it'll do, I think I'll live with the power I have :lol
Anywhere you guys recommend having a gander at for parts? I've used Wemoto.com already.
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If the cables from the exup are disconnected has the exup valve been removed or is it seized?
Either way no exup will affect the low down running on a gen1, and new ones are very expensive and secondhand working ones are very rare.
If you check the first photo you will see that the downpipes have been replaced presumably by a set of Sandy Spares or whatever they are calling themselves now, eliminating the collector box and EXUP housing.
....Those rubbers as Celtic said need changing......What the F do I know :lol I am not even man enough for a Mighty Thou :'(
Most if not all Gen1 inlet rubbers are cracked externally, mine included, granted not to the extent that the OP's are but nevertheless this is a common occurance on these bikes. The bike is apparently performing well so it is unlikely that the rubbers are damaged internally and suggesting that all 4 rubbers will degrade at the same point in time so as to make the bike unrideable is frankly ridiculous. If the OP want's to spend out on a set of brand new rubbers then that is his decision, personally I would recommend spending the money on upgrading the OEM rear shock and biding my time for a decent set of used rubbers to turn up on eBay but each to their own.
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https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/YAMAHA-FZS1000-FZS-1000-FAZER-2001-2005-GEN1-AIRBOX-TO-CARB-RUBBERS-X-4/142595602473?hash=item21335c3829:g:tpIAAOSwonBaFtYq (https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/YAMAHA-FZS1000-FZS-1000-FAZER-2001-2005-GEN1-AIRBOX-TO-CARB-RUBBERS-X-4/142595602473?hash=item21335c3829:g:tpIAAOSwonBaFtYq)
Advertised as good condition, crack free, £15-00 Free delivery.
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https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/YAMAHA-FZS1000-FZS-1000-FAZER-2001-2005-GEN1-AIRBOX-TO-CARB-RUBBERS-X-4/142595602473?hash=item21335c3829:g:tpIAAOSwonBaFtYq (https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/YAMAHA-FZS1000-FZS-1000-FAZER-2001-2005-GEN1-AIRBOX-TO-CARB-RUBBERS-X-4/142595602473?hash=item21335c3829:g:tpIAAOSwonBaFtYq)
Advertised as good condition, crack free, £15-00 Free delivery.
Or you could buy these rubbers provided they are the right year for your Gen 1 Mighty Thou, and still upgrade the rear shocker for another £200, if you can find a second hand one, or perhaps £??-00 if you can't. :lol
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https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/YAMAHA-FZS1000-FZS-1000-FAZER-2001-2005-GEN1-AIRBOX-TO-CARB-RUBBERS-X-4/142595602473?hash=item21335c3829:g:tpIAAOSwonBaFtYq (https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/YAMAHA-FZS1000-FZS-1000-FAZER-2001-2005-GEN1-AIRBOX-TO-CARB-RUBBERS-X-4/142595602473?hash=item21335c3829:g:tpIAAOSwonBaFtYq)
Advertised as good condition, crack free, £15-00 Free delivery.
Wrong rubbers Tommy - those are airbox to carb rubbers, L8onz needs carb to engine rubbers.
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Most if not all Gen1 inlet rubbers are cracked externally, mine included, granted not to the extent that the OP's are but nevertheless this is a common occurance on these bikes. The bike is apparently performing well so it is unlikely that the rubbers are damaged internally and suggesting that all 4 rubbers will degrade at the same point in time so as to make the bike unrideable is frankly ridiculous. If the OP want's to spend out on a set of brand new rubbers then that is his decision, personally I would recommend spending the money on upgrading the OEM rear shock and biding my time for a decent set of used rubbers to turn up on eBay but each to their own.
If the rubbers are not going to 'fail' then I'm more then happy to leave them in place, I'll buy new if they are needed, but at that price, not for s**ts and giggles.
The shock is on my list to replace, previous owner says it's fine even with his wife on the back, but did read they needed changing at around 15k and with the bike sitting at 36k, I knew it would need doing.
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Scottoilers do a great job of continuously lubing the chain, and will extend the life of the chain and sprockets 3 or 4 times compared with spray-on.......... IF the Scottoiler is maintained properly. It needs filling, adjusting and ensuring the tubes are not kinked. Most complaints about them not working are because they are neglected.
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I would not worry about the cracked in let pipes, I am sure Mike will confirm that the rubber is just a covering over metal.
When I meet Mike at a Ivanising session he had a old set that he cut in half just to check.
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@mtread
To be honest, I'd rather know that I've lubed the chain, rather than hoping its working.
@Ricky
You can see in the picture an underlaying metal base beneath the outer 'casing', I'm gunna keep an eye on performance for now. See how it goes.
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I would not worry about the cracked in let pipes, I am sure Mike will confirm that the rubber is just a covering over metal.
When I meet Mike at a Ivanising session he had a old set that he cut in half just to check.
There is a section of the stub which is solely rubber but as others have said, it's pretty thick. I've never seen one crack all the way through but I did find some this year which had started to disintegrate and crumble. They were from the same bike and it's not something I've seen previously.
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There is a section of the stub which is solely rubber but as others have said, it's pretty thick. I've never seen one crack all the way through but I did find some this year which had started to disintegrate and crumble. They were from the same bike and it's not something I've seen previously.
Thanks for the confirmation Mike I have updated the FAQ - "The rubber on the inlet manifolds between the carbs and the cylinder head is prone to cracking, this is generally cosmetic with no reported issues of the cracks affecting the internal walls of the manifolds or the performance of the engine."
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Nicely worded. :)
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https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/YAMAHA-FZS1000-FZS-1000-FAZER-2001-2005-GEN1-AIRBOX-TO-CARB-RUBBERS-X-4/142595602473?hash=item21335c3829:g:tpIAAOSwonBaFtYq (https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/YAMAHA-FZS1000-FZS-1000-FAZER-2001-2005-GEN1-AIRBOX-TO-CARB-RUBBERS-X-4/142595602473?hash=item21335c3829:g:tpIAAOSwonBaFtYq)
Advertised as good condition, crack free, £15-00 Free delivery.
Wrong rubbers Tommy - those are airbox to carb rubbers, L8onz needs carb to engine rubbers.
Cheers Hugh well spotted :thumbup
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At that price I would have had them myself...
I don't need any but a bargain is a bargain :lol
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Right then, next question to start another debate lol
When my brake light comes on, the number plate lights up even more, is that how it should be ie. it uses the same bulb as the tail/brakelights or do I have crossed wires?
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dont know about the 1000's but most number plate lights are just from the tail/brake light
if you have a look underneath it will be clear and can see the bulbs/reflector
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dont know about the 1000's but most number plate lights are just from the tail/brake light
if you have a look underneath it will be clear and can see the bulbs/reflector
Exactly, the tail light has a clear lens underneath that directs light from the bulbs onto the number plate, when the brake lights come on more light is directed through this clear lens as well as through the red portion of the light, it's just the way it is designed.
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Yes, that's how it's supposed to be.
Next question.
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Yes, that's how it's supposed to be.
Next question.
You asked for it lol
The adjuster on the brake lever, to adjust the reach of the lever, how do you turn it???
Videos show people just turning them, but I can't get mine to turn for love or money.
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Probably seized, plenty of duck oil or other penetrating fluid. Leave overnight and try with pliers I the morning.
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It rests in a notch, push the lever out while turning.
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Will give them a spray and retry.
Cheers guys
Stay tuned for the next round of questioning.........When I find something to ask about that I can't find the answer to in the forum. lol
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Okay, round 4 lol (you can tell I'm new to bikes)
Whilst on the centre stand, I put it into gear and reved it abit and pulled in the clutch to check the rear wheel turns freely, unfortunately it stopped spinning fairly quickly, I know that the rear calipers have a tendancy to stick, but is there anything else I should look at?
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Wheel alignment.
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Brakes, wheel alignment and chain tension are the first things I'd check.
Keep em coming, you'll not learn anything unless you ask.
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Okay, round 4 lol (you can tell I'm new to bikes)
Whilst on the centre stand, I put it into gear and reved it abit and pulled in the clutch to check the rear wheel turns freely, unfortunately it stopped spinning fairly quickly, I know that the rear calipers have a tendancy to stick, but is there anything else I should look at?
I think youd be better off switching the negine off, putting the motor into neutral, and spinning the rear wheel by hand. Youll get a much better feel for anything thats loose or binding that way. Try holding the tyre with both hands at 180 degrees to each other, and rocking the wheel from side to side, to check for any play in the bearings/swingarm. You could alos flip the chain off by loosening the adjustment to see if a stiff chain is affecting the wheel. Mark the current setting with apencil before slackening to give e ref for refitting
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Got the brake lever knob turning, bit of spray and pliars worked lovely.
Had more of a play witht he back wheel this morning, theres no play in the swing arm or wheel fitting that I can tell, will have to flick the chain off at somepoint, does sound like the brake disc to me.
How much does it cost to have the wheel alignment checked, is it a case of rolling up to tyre fitting place and waiting 10 mins?
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Have a look on youtube, plenty of vids on there to show you how to do it yourself.
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How much does it cost to have the wheel alignment checked, is it a case of rolling up to tyre fitting place and waiting 10 mins?
No, don't take it to a tyre fitting place - car tyre fitters no nothing about bikes for a start.
Whenever you adjust the chain you need to make sure the wheel is still lined up correctly - Look at plenty of videos on youtube (as already suggested) there will be differing ways of doing it, just make up your mind which is the easiest to understand and follow it.
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Rubbers have metal sleeves inside,just keep looking on ebay every wk to source some new ones,I bought some second hand but new for £25,mot tester said that he had seen worse but when they do leak that the bike would be un-rideable and also might not start,good luck.
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No, don't take it to a tyre fitting place - car tyre fitters no nothing about bikes for a start.
I did mean bike tyre fitting centre lol, I would trust most car garages with my car, let alone my bike.
Edit: That should of said wouldn't. :rollin
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Come on boys this ain't rocket science ffs
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Next two questions then.
With the bike being on and off the centre stand for the last 3 weeks, Im unable to move the side stand at all........is this going to be a cold weather issue because it hasn't been used or is it going to need more then the WD40 that I've sprayed on it and left for while?
Question 2.
Handguards, I've seen alot of posts about them, but having a play with the steering, I can't see handguards fitting due to my mirrors. Would the fuzzymod help this matter, along side helping with the huge blindspot behind me?
Cheers all
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Liberal amounts of WD40 or something similiar then when you get it moving remove the sidestand and clean the pivot bolt, pivot hole etc up, put a light smear of grease on the pivot area and refit, job done.
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You could try one of these for the blind spot
http://www.huntercreate.com/ (http://www.huntercreate.com/)
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Regarding the handguards fitting or not, I think it will depend what handlebars you're using,how far forward you push them to get to a comfortable position, and lastly it could depend on what screen you're using. I'm using 758s with a Puig screen and there's no chance that handguards would fit unless possibly the bars were pulled back to a "flatter" position which wouldn't be comfortable for me. As an afterthought having a GYTR bar mount would work against you as well.
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@slappy
Got it moving, will be regreased hopefully tomorrow :)
@agricola
Cheers for the suggestion buddy but problem lies with seeing directly behind me, plus I've got nowhere to mount it :/
@robbo
I think I have a Renthal 755 Bars on there, plus I've ordered a new 'touring' screen, so maybe a case of buy it and try.
What would be different about GYTR mounts?
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The GYTR mounts are lower than stock, so the bars are mounted closer to the top yoke. The riding position puts a bit more weight on the bars.
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@robbo
Shall investigate, when it stops f*****g raining ofcourse.
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Ive got got a standard rear suspension unit for sale if your interested its only done 3k, Falcon will verify its condition...its minty and as new. I replaced it with a Maxton early on £50 plus PP.
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@Kenvis Repesco
Cheers buddy, but looking to upgrade to the R6 shock soon.
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@robbo
Don't think they are GYTR mounts (lowered).
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L8onz,
No they're not.The big give away is GYTR stamped in them and the top clamps are linked together to form one piece, which makes centralising the bars a tad difficult as it's difficult to see the marks on the Renthals. :)
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@robbo
Good, at leaest that one point to me vs handguards lol, I've just installed a MRA screen so will probably buy the handguards and see spacing and fitment options. Still debating the fuzzy mirror mod.
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Hope it works out ok L8onz, keep us posted.
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I did the fuzzy mirror mod years ago... wouldn't go back...but my bike is still on original bars.
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I did the fuzzy mirror mod years ago... wouldn't go back...but my bike is still on original bars.
I read that it would help with seeing directly behind you, is it a marginal difference or is it significant?
Does it move the mirror stalks forward at all? Debating if it could help with handguard spacing.
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In my opinion on standard bars the improvement was significant.
Not sure about the handguard issue.
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@dickturpin
I know what mod has just been added to my list of to do's then lol
Will purchase some handguards and give a fitting test.
Thank you
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If I remember correctly you can always go back to standard if you don't like it...but hopefully you'll get the same improvement as I have found.
Do let us know how it goes!
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@dickturpin
Will update when I have time to fiddle with things :)
Next query.....my centre stand isn't full lifting when I take the bike off of it, but lifts and stays up when I give it alittle nudge, am gunna have a pokey around, just it a clean and spray and make sure the springs are no rubbing together.......Is this a common issue or does it just need cleaning?
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cleaning and wd40
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Finally got round to having a fiddle with the bike this afternoon, got to remove, clean and regrease the side stand, worked a treat. :)
Cheers devilsyam,
Gave the centerstand a good clean too and thats another problem solved.
I fitted my MRA screen a few days ago, in the rain, alot better then the standard screen that was on there, works lovely on the motorway.
Mirror mod and handguard test fitting still to do :)
Questions
1.I found another breather/overflow hose down the left side, is that suppose to be there?
2.Also I have smoke, not from the end of the exhaust, but off the exhaust underneath the bike will see if I can get the video to upload. Is this something to worry about (sounds like a daft question), nothing is on the exhaust from what I can see, I've noticed a funny smell when starting up and riding a few times, but never found where it was coming from till now.
3.There is a strange sound when the engines running, I think I've pinpointed it to the fuel pump under the right hand side of the seat, are these prone to problems? I tried getting a video (will try to upload aswell) to get the sound but don't think the video does the noise justice.
4.I removed the scottoiler as it wasn't doing anything and rather do it myself, Theres a thin black hose that comes off the top of the reservoir and goes down to the top Carb to engine rubber number 1, as seen in my first post on the thread, picture 3 :) what's best to use to block off when I remove that connection and the black hose?
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Unable to upload videos :'(
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Where exactly is this hose you've found on the left side? Is it hanging free or connected to something else?
I hope I'm wrong but it's possible the smoke you're getting off the exhaust is actually coolant leaking onto the EXUP collector box. The oil and coolant pump are combined inside the sump and if the seals on the latter fail, the coolant dumps out of a drain hole in the sump pan which drops directly onto the exhaust. More info here:
http://www.yamahafz1oa.com/forum/showthread.php?t=37957&highlight=water+pump (http://www.yamahafz1oa.com/forum/showthread.php?t=37957&highlight=water+pump)
Fuel pumps are usually pretty reliable. You might be hearing noise from your camchain adjuster. You need to be certain exactly where the sound is originating.
What's the year and mileage?
Use a rubber stub cap the same as on the other carbs to block the vacuum stub when you remove the Scottoiler. I've known folks use a short length of hose with a bolt in the end to do the job but best to get the proper item.
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Exhaust Smoke Video
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@Falcon 269
The hose is around the area of the side stand, didn't think to take a photo as hands were dirty, will try and get out on day after work while it's still light.
I've not notice any leaking around that area, nothing on the floor after being sat for awhile. Will check out the link and have a gander in depth.
Is the camchain adjuster usually noisy? Would that be located underneath the fuel tank area?
It 2002 (51 plate) currently around 36,600 miles.
Shall have a source for one of them and tidy it up :)
Cheers Buddy
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Hmmm, although the clip is short and the sound quality not so good, something sounds unwell there ... not fuel pump, more like cam chain. The tensioner is the bit sticking out behind the cam chain tunnel on the right side of the motor. Focus your attention there to see if that's where the noise is most obvious.
The smoke looks like it's coming from the back of the motor rather than the coolant weep hole in the sump. Good news in one way, perhaps, although if that smoke is continuous, you clearly have another problem to track down.
More photos, longer video, covering all around the motor would be helpful to us in diagnostics. :)
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@Falcon 269
Had another quick nose around after work today, the sound is definitely on the right hand side, where you have suggested......will have a gander about on here and in the Haynes manual and familiarise my self with the area :)
No smoke this time...........though will have a lengthly look and record on saturday, when I have an extended time with natural light.
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Just a thought ... have you recently overhauled the EXUP? Could be the smoke is copper grease burning off in that case.
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@Falcon 269
The EXUP valve was removed prior to be purchasing the bike. One of the previous owners had a new exhaust system installed removing it completely.
Had a gander at a new cam chain tensioner (just incase I need one when I do have a nosey about the bike saturday), £140 from fowlers :eek they having a laugh or what........anyone know if somewhere that sells new cheaper?
Googled the part number and did findsome with an extra -00 on the part number (same part name) for yamaha boat engines in USA going alot cheaper lol
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If tensioner is a problem you could fit a manual one which is about £50
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Manual cam chain tensioner on ebay £35.99 +£3.99 postage. Item number: 253370768059. Same guy I got mine from. Peace of mind as well as they are known to let go.
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Cheers Guys, Have added it to my watched list.
Had another gander this evening as it's due to rain tomorrow :/ the cam chain tensioner is making some noise......But most of the noise I can hear is still from the fuel pump. :/
Had more smoke this evening, but it was from the exhaust link pipe up the side of the bike, will try and upload pic. Any ideas why it's doing this?
Also adjust rear wheel alignment, got it straight but still not freely turning after a push......also having issues deciding how to measure chain tension........Haynes manual says 40-45mm midway between the front and rear sprockets (I'd say just behind the black chain guard under the swingarm).......but the picture shows it further back than what I would call midway (in the middle of the front end of the tyre). Where is the reference point to measure? (I've measured it before just behind the chain guard thingy, but after faffing with rear wheel, only just read about it in the Haynes manual and it has confued me abit).
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PieEater put together an extremely thorough and helpful FAQ regarding Gen 1's at the top of this section. Chain adjustment is covered in that thread :) .
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PieEater put together an extremely thorough and helpful FAQ regarding Gen 1's at the top of this section. Chain adjustment is covered in that thread :) .
Spot on Thank you
Something I forgot to mention, was the other overflow pipe i seen by the side stand........pics attached.
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Air box drain hose with inline filter.
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@Falcon 269
Had another quick nose around after work today, the sound is definitely on the right hand side, where you have suggested......will have a gander about on here and in the Haynes manual and familiarise my self with the area :)
No smoke this time...........though will have a lengthly look and record on saturday, when I have an extended time with natural light.
While the bike is running pull the clutch lever right in to the handle bars and see if there is a reduction or change in the sound.
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Of course! Normal clutch rattle - how easy it is to overlook the usual noises a motor makes because we assume everyone else knows what a Gen 1 sounds like. :)
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Cheers unfazed, Glad that hose isn't anything to worry about either :)
Update, Chain has been adjusted as per the FAO at the top of the page........Rear wheel still not freely turning as before :/
I started up the bike and tested the clutch as suggested......this made no change to the noise.
The Cam chain tensioner is making noise....so will change that soon with a manual tensioner. Are they easy to adjust? I've read up the standard tensioners but not manual ones.
The noise I thought that was the fuel pump is coming from the air intake under the seat......had a gander with tank off etc. (discovered the filter was installed mid January 2012, but has only covered little over 5000 miles.) but still unsure what is causing the noise as I didn't start up the bike without the air filter on as it started raining :/ Thought everything looked clean and ok in the airbox. Still can't get a video that does the noise justice. Any idea's guys?
I also carried out the Fuzzy mirror mod, it does give alittle bit of extra space for possible fitment of handguards though havent cut down the rubbers yet as I'm unsure if it improves my view or just moves the mirrors down, will need to have a jolly about and decide. May have to put it back how it was with extenders on.
And no smoke from the exhaust again when I did start her up.
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Went out for a bimble, Had to change back to mirrors, due to the reason I could get the bike through the gate posts :/
Think I'll just live with the blind spot behind me and hope nothing catches up :lol
Also had an issue of the bike cutting out on my way home......Had to faff with the immobliser to get it started after filling up......5-10 mins later it cuts out just as I let rip to reach a space in traffic.....Started straight back up though, will keep an eye on that :/
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The manual cam chain tensioner that I bought came with quite explanatory instructions. Also if you google the item you'll come across a youtube vid showing the adjustment procedure. It's made by our well known suspension guru Luke Gibson, aka devilsyam.
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Fitted the manual tensioner, does sound better.
Is there suppose to be noise coming from the airbox? (probably a silly question) Unsure if it's normal sound coming from the carbs echoing through the airbox (This is the noise that I thought was coming from the fuel pump).
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Amount of noise will also depend on air filter type. Have you still got rubber cover on air box
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I think you need to do a bit more riding and a little less worrying!! They are budget bikes and will make some noises. You can generally tell if it's serious like you know if you are ill or if it's just a sniffle. If everything works then ride it!!!
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@Dustydes
I looks like a standard airfilter, nothing fancy. Yeah the rubber cover is still on the airbox, the sound is coming out of the air inlet area, probably making it sound worse then it is echoing out of it.
@old son
With me, I like to know what it is, ignorance isn't bliss for me. As I've only had this big for 3 months I'm still getting used to it. Most things work until it goes bang.
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Also had an issue of the bike cutting out on my way home......Had to faff with the immobliser to get it started after filling up......5-10 mins later it cuts out just as I let rip to reach a space in traffic.....Started straight back up though, will keep an eye on that :/
Right then, had this issue again, just after filling up.........flat road, 20mph limit (yes I was staying within the limit) then suddenly throttle cuts out, the revs drops as the bike slows (but it wasn't a dead engine kinda drop, I still had exhuast rumble as I was slowing down), but I pulled the clutch in just as the revs dropped right down, pressed starter button, she fired straight back up, didn't even stop rolling or need a foot down. Rode home as usual, no issues. This was after a 2 hour blast with no issues and no issues starting in the petrol station.
It was like just coming off the throttle for a junction, engine braking slowing the bike down, still with exhaust rumble and feel, except the revs didn't stop at idle and i just dropped to 0.
Any ideas?
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There are some known electrical gremlins, the FAQ has the details however it would be worth checking the white block under the tank as well as unplugging the regulator / rectifier to make sure all the pins are clean. Using ACF50 on the connections of both of these would help dispel water and keep them clean and moisture free, but if you have the time and inclination going through all of the wiring loom connections, unplugging them and applying ACF50 wouldn't be a bad idea. ACF50 is better than WD40 for this as it will get rid of corrosion and help maintain the connections as well as displacing any moisture.
Somewhere to start at least.
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@PieEater
I had a gander at the white block a few weeks ago and all looked fine, but will check them all again, will have to invest in some acf 50. is that spray the connetions with acf50 when unplugged or when its all plugged back up again?
Where about is the regulator/rectifier located?
Cheers
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I also have some questiona aobut my Fazer 1000.
1. When I start the bike and I dorve off with full choke on i feel slight vibrations like the engine would like to have more RPM.
2. If I open the throttle fast vhen on ull choke, the engine doesnt want to accelerate straight away. It stays on started RPM for some time and after
a second or twho the engine starts to accelerate.
3. When I start to ride a bike, that means when it is cold i get some squeal sound from the back left side of the bike. And when it worms up the
sound goes away. What could that be?
tnx
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1. Don't ride with the choke on.
2. Don't accelerate with the choke on.
3. A mouse?