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Messages - Slaninar
1101
« on: 03 November 2011, 08:30:37 am »
You will spend a lot of time and money and get some 10hp more at best. It is hardly noticeable. You could also change sprockets - that is a bit more noticeable I think, but the best thing to do is just get another bike. It will be cheaper and simpler.
Things to consider adding more power (and riding it for all it's worth!) are suspension and frame stiffness - both not up to the task of high speed riding on FZS. They are OK. Especially for a 95 hp engine, but for over 100 hp high speed - I'd just get a Thundercat, R6 or something like that. CBR600F or RR should be fine as well.
However, if you have enough time, money and like fiddling with a bike that works, KN air filter, DynoJet kit, Arrow/Scorpion/Akrapovic end can (or full exhaust tubes as well) will give you more hp.
To tame it all and stay on the pavement, you will also need some better, stiffer, suspension. Wilbers monoshock and fork springs.
That should make a nice tuned Fazer.
Correct me if I got prices wrong:
KN filter around 70 euros
DynoJet kit 100 e
Arrow end can 350 e
Decent Wilbers mono shock 500 e
Wilbers springs - no idea.
That's around 1000 euros. If you have money and time, you will be happy. Forget price soon and remember the ride forewer. However, if you want quicker sportier bike, selling FZS and getting another motorcycle is the best thing to do.
1102
« on: 03 November 2011, 05:22:13 am »
Anne,
yes, there is a benefit in the cold - summer rubber gets hard below 7degC, and starts to lose its performance. Its why plenty of Northern European countries mandate you run on winter tyres between Nov-Mar (approx), even Belgium, where they're not exactly a big snowfall country.
What I've experienced is that summer tyres are a lot less gripy when it is cold - in both wet and dry conditions. This can be a difference between 10 and 13 meter stopping trail (hitting, or stopping just in time). All 4 winter tyres do great difference on braking and cornering when it's below 10 degrees Centigrade. Expense is not too great - because when switching tyres they last about twice as long. Just get a spare set of wheels (rims) so you do not have to take tyres off to replace, just swap wheels - 30 minutes work. In my country it is mandatory to switch to winter tyres in November but I'd do it anyway.
1103
« on: 02 November 2011, 08:21:47 am »
Yamaha will sell a lot of Fazer 8's as soon as the newest FZS model becomes 40 years old and hard to find in decent condition. Time is on 8's side! 
1104
« on: 02 November 2011, 08:18:49 am »
20 litre tank (2001 Fazer).
90 km/h in sixth gear gives about 4.5 litres per 100 kilometres (that's about 250 miles per 20l tank).
Regular town and open road ride is about 5.5 litres (some 220-230 miles per tank).
140 motorway or really revvy rides give about 6 - 6.5 litres per 100 kms (about 200 miles per tank).
I usually top up after 300 kilometres. It takes between 14 to 17 litres to fill it then. If there is no gas station near, I'm confident that genthe throttle use will give me at least 80 more kilometres after the fuel light is turned on (usually around 300 kilometres since last top-up).
1105
« on: 01 November 2011, 05:39:59 pm »
1106
« on: 01 November 2011, 05:19:07 pm »
Got 4 second hand wheels for my mom's Punto for some 80 euros. Fitted winter tyres on them. Just change wheels in autumn/spring. Simple, quick, free.
Winter tyres are a must since she lives uphill - the car gets stuck with regular tyres. I'm also sure winter tyres are better for winter braking, cornering etc.
1107
« on: 29 October 2011, 01:00:06 am »
Since viscosity modifiers supposedly get chewed up worse by the higher speeds in bike gearboxes, wouldn't an oil like that (with a wider range than required) suffer more than a 10W40?
Yes it would. 10w40, 15w50 are longer lasting ones. 10w50, 5w40 would break up quicker. However, good quality full synth can hold well for 4000 mile change interval in a Fazer engine.
1108
« on: 27 October 2011, 10:31:18 pm »
Well, there's no evidence there is there?  .
Yes, I agree with you. There is no 100% clear evidence. Just like cigars causing lung cancer. No 100% evidence, but I believe they don't help. Have you tried any fully synth car oil in Fazer engine (and clutch)? Was everything fine? Bottom line: your money, your bike - do whatever you like. For the price difference I don't want to risk.
1109
« on: 27 October 2011, 04:14:32 pm »
Based on what evidence ?
Repost my text from old yuku forum:Motorcycle (vs car) engine is different in several ways:1) Clutch is in the same oil, wet clutch.2) More rpms. This puts tension on camshaft. Smaller surface takes more pressure per square inch in motorcycle.If going for auto oils, I was told not to go above SG specification semi-synthetic oils. If using auto full synth, or any above API SG, then clutch slippage is to be expected. Like you said, difference in price is nowhere near the risk taken.Silkolene semi-synth COMP 4 10w40 goes for around 7.5 e per litre here. That is what 2 oil experts recommended and agreed upon for FZS engine. One of them also recommended Motul, but said Silkolene is cheaper and almost just as good.One more thing. They also said that many oil companies sell auto oil as motor oil - which means their oil, even motorcycle specific stuff, is bad. Didn't want to say which ones, but said:"Bad stuff isn't alway cheap.Good stuff is never cheap."What they did want to say are companies who do not pack auto oil an whose motorcycle oil is at least decent. Motul, Mobile (Fuchs), Silkolene, Bel Ray are the mentioned ones I can remember. Doesn't mean some other are not good, but these were "approved" by them.What I fail to understand is how FZS engine can not benefit from full synthetic oil. From what I learned, full synth can give 1-2 k kms longer change intervals and somewhat better protection.They also said to stick to 5000 km change for town use, and 6-7 k km change for traveling. However, they said this goes for Serbia only (our petrol has a lot of sulphur - bad quality fuel).
If I had 2 new motorcylces, I would gladly do the testing myself. Ride one on car, the other on decen motorcycle specific oil. Then, after some 50.000 kms, perhaps I could come to a clonclusion. I believe that car oil could be as good, but price difference is just not worth the risk for me.
Coming from an experienced mechanic I know (and trust): Motul and Repsol are oils which never made problems for any bike.
1110
« on: 26 October 2011, 02:18:03 pm »
Being Yamahas wouldn't Yamalube be the best option, price not being a factor?
I m 99% sure that Yamalube oil are made by Motul.So you are using Motul oil.
Is that why my gear box is clunky then? Thought it was just a redeeming feature of the bike.
My info is Yamalube is not Motul, nor made by Motul. It is not possible to get complete specs and origin from what I found out. At the price (at least in my country), Yamalube costs almost as much as Motul, but Motul is the best oil I think. Motul 7100 is the best IMO. You could go semi synth with Motul 5100. Repsol is also fine. 10w40 viscosity for England and northern Europe, 10w50, or 15w50 for hot hot heat. Car oil without friction modifiers can do, but is not as good as GOOD motorcycle specific oil. Some brands just pack car oils in different bottles, but good companies make motorcycle specific oil. Motul, Repsol, Silkolene, Mobil to name a few. Oil is not where I try to save money.
1111
« on: 11 October 2011, 07:13:04 am »
You mean really... with a lady? What's that like?  Hope to do it myself next spring - on the track (with a lady).
1112
« on: 11 October 2011, 07:08:50 am »
400 seems truly exotic. Can't find a single one (for sale or show) in the neighbourhood. Guess finding 400 specific spares would be a nightmare. Pity, since it sounds like perfect bike - just a bit lighter than 600, probably less thirsty and lower taxes. BTW, this spill check rally works!
1114
« on: 09 October 2011, 08:21:53 pm »
Has anyone had a go with LEDs?
LEDs are good if lights have good optics (made for LED). Otherwise - not good. I have LEDs on rear and brake lights, but everything else is just not good. Tried it all - less visible and less light for me to see.
1115
« on: 09 October 2011, 04:01:37 pm »
Fazer chains can be endless, or one that is bolted together. The bolted one is put together with a chain tool and once it is put together, if it is done right, it should be OK. Mine is such - no problems at all. The endless one is a bit harder to fit since rear fork has to be removed (I think). As long as it is proper strength and legth, it shouldn't matter what kind it is.
1116
« on: 09 October 2011, 03:57:38 pm »
H7 HID is the answer. It has a plastic "collar" that can be easily cut to fit just right in the Fazer's H1 original spot. The metal clip holds it in place. Will see about the brightness tonight, but even in daylight it looks a lot brighter than the H4 on hi beam. Should be nice. So anyone looking for easy fit HID for FZS - go for H7 in place of H1 bulb - it works. Or hold on for a few more months to see how mine holds.
1119
« on: 02 October 2011, 09:12:06 am »
The simple answer:
(Sorry, couldn't help it, didn't take my pills this morning )
1120
« on: 29 September 2011, 03:38:57 pm »
Nobody knows what really went on between players, manager, club etc. If you don't know what really happened, you can't understand and give any real comments. Media manipulate and are manipulated. Of course no manager/player/spokesman gives the media the whole truth.
Both Teves and Mancini are great players (well, Mancini no more of course) and I'm sure they'll sort it out one way or another. Not much of a fan of fines/bans/punishments myself. To hell with the angry linch mob.
1121
« on: 29 September 2011, 02:57:05 pm »
Change oil, not fuel, of course. 
1122
« on: 29 September 2011, 02:55:29 pm »
I simply HATE Fazer! Roads in my country are so poor that after each ride I curse it and think to myself why haven't I bought a nice enduro (Transalp, Versys etc). It is better for poor roads and it doesn't make you want to go fast. The problem is, Fazer is just perfect for everything and whichever bike I've tried, it is either too dull, too sporty or just plain ugly. So FZS boxey for a few more years it seams. It is decent on comfort, decent on handling, excellent acceleration, excellent brakes and just perfect looks for my liking that is. Fuel consumption is also excellent - less than any other bike my mates have, with similar number of HP. Not to forget the build quality. Been helping some mates with GS Suzukis, Yamaha Tenere, TDMs, Transalps. Fazer seems as good, or better in most parts, plus it seems like the most practical one. On Fazer it is easier (compared to the above mentioned) to change fuel, filters, brake pads, clean calipers, change spark plugs. All those things that are more likely to be done at a roadside in case of something going wrong (which so far never has on the trusty one ). Just wish they made a model with some 20 hp less, some 20 kg less and a few more cm of suspension travel for our minefield roads. Then it would be 100% perfect.
1123
« on: 20 August 2011, 12:47:54 pm »
Here I am. THE king of bed speling and a black 2001 FZS600 rider from Serbia (the country of sunshine, cheap beer and coppers amazed if you stop at their signals when on a bike).
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