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Messages - Fazerider
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76
« on: 12 May 2019, 06:31:04 pm »
Sorry, didn't read your first post carefully enough. You're correct, that wouldn't be so likely to affect higher gears, first to second is the one that shows the issue first because the neutral detent requires the drum to be rotated further than between the other gears. If the clutch was dragging you'd notice difficulty getting between 1st and neutral, yet it's odd that replacing the clutch seemed to fix it temporarily. It might be worth taking the clutch cover off and taking a closer look and see if you can spot what is happening. By side to side play in the gear shaft do you mean axial? A bit of radial slop is normal, but if the shaft is able to move too far to the left side of the engine it could result in the same collision with the pins of the selector drum that I had. And that might account for it working some of the time and not others. Thinking about it, a suitable washer on the shaft to keep it a millimetre further away would have fixed my issue a lot easier. 
77
« on: 12 May 2019, 02:20:51 pm »
Firstly, check the clutch is correctly adjusted.  Second gear is the Fazer’s Achilles’ heel. Not only is the selector for 2nd is prone to wear which makes engagement a hit-or-miss affair, but the mechanism that rotates the selector drum is poorly designed: part of the gear shift shaft can jam against the pins of the drum. From your description it sounds as though the latter may be what’s affecting your bike. There’s a longwinded account hereunfortunately it looks as though my image hosting service is down at the moment. If it doesn’t come back in a few days I’ll have to find another and re-link. The GIF works ok, that and the description may help. Looking on the bright side, if this does turn out to be the issue, it's an easier fix than changing the drum and selector forks.
78
« on: 12 May 2019, 09:32:22 am »
Thanks, now I know what I’m looking for il try and check the setting on those in the next couple of days, no3 looks like it’s a pain to get to, possibly remove starter motor?
Yes, moving the starter is the easiest way to get at the No.3 pilot screw. I’d recommend getting a bit of clear tubing to check the fuel levels in the float bowls too. It’s rare for a float to need adjustment, but quite common for the O-ring around the valve to fail and cause flooding.
79
« on: 08 May 2019, 11:19:34 am »
For what it’s worth, I find the R6 spring gives an excellent ride. I’m light, though not 7 stone… more like 9 and don't carry a pillion. Sag was (just) within the prescribed range. Doubtless for track use it’d need a stiffer rate, but on the appalling roads round me the standard spring is easier on the spine.
80
« on: 02 May 2019, 06:08:20 pm »
It would have been interesting to see the difference in torque needed. You can’t judge the degree of oxidation by looking at how many bubbles are in the oil. Oil getting flung off the gears onto the casings is a useful way to transfer heat and get any hardened metal lost from the gears out of harm’s way to the bottom of the sump. But I guess in some situations that GL6 may be ideal.
81
« on: 02 May 2019, 09:07:54 am »
Cut out is usually to the outside.
Why so ?
It makes it easier to bend the tabs of the lock washer up. Also, some bikes use a sturdy locking plate which bolts to the two threaded holes in the sprocket.
82
« on: 29 April 2019, 06:35:08 pm »
How bad is it? You may be able to repair it by replacing the ball bearings.. at least, that and repacking with grease sorted mine.
83
« on: 29 April 2019, 12:17:42 am »
Has anyone had any issues in removing the nuts on the rear sprocket. I don't want to end up with exhaust nut/stud - gate
I have heard on here about problems with brake disk nuts but what about the sprocket nuts.
It’s steel on steel rather than steel into alloy like the brake discs and I never had a problem shifting the rear sprocket, but mine has been changed every 2 to 4 years. Yours on the other hand, if it’s been undisturbed for a couple of decades, might put up some resistance. I’d use a 6-sided socket as a precaution against rounding off.
84
« on: 28 April 2019, 12:36:10 pm »
I've never fitted a chain link myself, not on a motorbike anyway, so one question is can you get it very wrong or is it that straightforward to do?
Can you press the pin too much for example causing any issues?
As you can fully understand it's not an area that you really want to botch in any way or form as the aftermath could be disastrous.
Yes, you can overtighten the link if you spread the pin too hard. I use vernier calipers, tighten the tool slowly and stop once the rivet link is the same width as the other links. Easy.
85
« on: 28 April 2019, 12:24:00 pm »
… The sets you buy usually come with afam sprockets…
I guess things have changed. I’ve not bought an aftermarket C&S set for ages (the last 2 have been genuine Yamaha and I get 40k from them thanks to the oiler), but the sprockets always used to be JT.
I must look into getting a Scottoiler to be honest, it really doesn't bother me using the brush method at all, in fact i like to see exactly what's going on, but it would make more sense to do it automatically.
I've started using a thicker grade gear oil, is that still okay to use with these gadgets?
I use cheap car engine oil, film strength is easily sufficient and it’s less sticky so doesn’t hang on to grit. Easy to prime too, on the occasions when I forget to refill and run the reservoir dry. I’d expect gear oil to work OK too, what ever you choose will take a bit of fiddling with the flow rate. Scottoil is thicker and stickier than 10W40… probably not very different to the gear oil you’re using.
86
« on: 28 April 2019, 10:50:31 am »
… The sets you buy usually come with afam sprockets…
I guess things have changed. I’ve not bought an aftermarket C&S set for ages (the last 2 have been genuine Yamaha and I get 40k from them thanks to the oiler), but the sprockets always used to be JT.
87
« on: 27 April 2019, 07:00:01 pm »
I will get a photo of the front sprocket for peoples opinion as to if I really need to change it as I understand it wears quicker than the rear.
What is the tool you use?
This is the one. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/183609863691?
88
« on: 27 April 2019, 03:09:46 pm »
I’ve used rivet link C&S kits and endless ones in the past.
A chain tool is pretty cheap, the one I bought years ago currently costs £20 and has made easy work of about 8 C&S changes in that time.
Alternatively, that endless chain looks ideal, I guess the links are listed in case you want to extend/shorten it. If like me, you’re too lazy to strip the rear suspension down for lubrication unless forced into it, then the endless option is ideal.
There looks to be plenty of life in that rear sprocket and a “silent” front sprocket is less than a tenner.
89
« on: 25 April 2019, 06:45:08 pm »
changing the dog bone will make no difference to the distance between the pegs and seat as they are both attached to the frame only the swing arm changes position you could try adjustable pegs or mounting plates to move the pegs to a different height
Good point! Lowering the pegs reduces ground clearance unless you also use shorter dogbones.
90
« on: 24 April 2019, 09:26:43 pm »
You could change the dogbones to give an increase in ride height at the rear which will a) pitch your weight a bit further forward and b) reduce the angle at your knees slightly (though it will also quicken the steering a bit which you might not want).
You might also consider a reupholstered seat.
Some flatter Renthal bars could help. You’ll probably find if you rotate the standard bars forward enough to make much difference to the riding position then they’ll hit the fairing before you reach full lock.
91
« on: 22 April 2019, 09:33:24 pm »
Have you still got the original spark plug caps? A new set of NGK caps and trim the ht lead might cure the misfire under 5k
Good thought. I did change to NGKs many years ago, but it’s been a few years since I trimmed the leads… certainly worth a try while I get the new engine sorted. A change of sparkplugs might help too, but they’re seized solid.
92
« on: 21 April 2019, 11:36:02 pm »
93
« on: 21 April 2019, 11:03:28 am »
An update: I Araldited a sheet of tough plastic onto the side that was showing signs of electrolyte seepage and the battery still squeezed into the bike OK. The bike has been running poorly for a while… lots of misfiring below 5000 rpm, so as a fix I swapped in a clean set of carbs. After 3 on-off cycles of the ignition the float bowls were filled, but pressing the starter button did nothing. After a few more tries the starter relay got the idea and clicked… after a dozen more tries the contacts managed to clean themselves and the starter motor churned the engine over. Another 20 seconds and it fired up.  First time it’s run since November… not bad for a battery that by rights should be knackered. Unfortunately, the misfire is only slightly better. Maybe some fresh petrol will help, but swapping the engine is the next step... no 2nd gear is such a PITA.
94
« on: 20 April 2019, 10:06:40 am »
7 votes each at the moment, which surprises me. I thought the sleek, cartoon-ish race face of the Foxeye would have been the popular choice. The Boxeye is my preference, it’s just more honest about what the bike is… and most things I like tend to look more right as time goes by. I even like the look of the Honda CG125. 
95
« on: 14 April 2019, 10:45:26 pm »
Lots of faults can cause a loss of sparks, but quite a lot of them will also prevent the starter motor from running.
If you have a multimeter that can help to pin things down.
Without one, I’d check connectors are clean and tight everywhere and pay particular attention to the wiring at the rear of the bike near the ignitor unit. If there is, or has been in the past, an alarm fitted then the wiring may have been bodged in that area. On Fazers that haven’t been altered there are a couple of link plugs where the factory immobiliser option can be fitted. If the plugs are corroded or if one of the black wires to them is broken then that will allow the starter to operate, but you’ll get no sparks.
96
« on: 11 April 2019, 10:46:15 pm »
You'd need a balancer too...
Or save on storage space by using the swingarm and spindle you already have.
97
« on: 10 April 2019, 10:01:52 pm »
I can’t quite see how that grips the wheel, but I guess it must work if they say it does bikes tyres. It’s more compact than the one I bought. (I paid about half the price this seller is asking.) The hardest part was drilling the garage floor for the expanding bolts to secure it firmly. Ideally I'd have embedded studs in concrete, but didn't want to be tripping over them for the 99.999% of the time I'm not using it.
98
« on: 01 April 2019, 10:12:53 pm »
Sounds like a sensible solution. Much better than having the plug drop out on the motorway.  If time is less of an issue than money you might want to take the sump off before committing to a new gasket… mine came off without damage to the old one. I just smeared a little liquid gasket on and reused it.
99
« on: 01 April 2019, 05:24:42 pm »
Never heard of them but, as you say, they've got to be safer than twenty year-old rubber.
Alternatively, Venhill do twin line hoses for a similar price. (Easier to bleed as there's no need for the splitter under the headlight.)
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