Date: 05-03-24  Time: 08:33 am

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Topics - b1k3rdude

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Messages for Users / MOVED: Clutch assembly
« on: 18 March 2021, 05:31:37 pm »

For Sale & Wanted / Wanted: mainstand for FZ1
« on: 15 March 2021, 01:08:18 pm »
So the main stand on my fz1 has some rust on it and as I don't know how bad it is, I figured I would get another and get that one painted or power coated.

FZS600 Fazer / Mk1/2 Fazer 600: FAQ for New and Prospective Owners
« on: 20 February 2021, 12:37:33 pm »

What is it?

The FZ600 Fazer was released in 1998 and was best in class and by 2003 had sold over 80k units. The bike is beloved bike and is considered by many owners one of the best all-round motorcycles, giving current bikes a run for their money. With the Fazer, Yamaha got the basics right and that’s what makes it such a great bike. The tank range is long, the seat comfortable, the fairing effective, the brakes sharp and the motor strong in the mid-range and extremely reliable. The suspension may be a bit baggy, but if that’s the Fazer’s only real fault 22 years after it was launched then that’s not bad going. The only fly in the ointment is for London riders this bike isnt Euro3 compliant, but for £175 they can take it to Riverbank motorcycles (the only emission testing center in London) to get the bike registered as ulez compliant.

  • Engine: 599cc, DOHC liquid-cooled inline four
  • Power: 95bhp @ 11,500rpm
  • Torque: 61.2ftlb @ 9500rpm
  • Weight: 200Kg (dry)
  • Seat Height 815mm/32”
  • Wheelbase: 1460
  • Tank size: 18 liters
  • Tyres: 110/60-ZR17 and 160/60-ZR17
Which one should I buy?
  • While the early Mk1's have their charm, they are not without their issues. Most notably the woefully inadequate front headlight. Now that LED bulbs are legal its recommended that owners should replace the stock bulbs asap
What should I look out for?
  • TBC
Things that will break in an accident.
  • Just like the other Fazer models, the sub-frame and headlight won't survive if any part of the front gets a hard enough side impact. And by that I mean the sub-frame (that the headlight & whole front fairing mounts to) gets tweaked so things don't line up perfectly anymore. And some or all of the headlight mounts get snapped off. So like I and other owners do, find and buy some spares - levers, mirrors, indicators, infill panels, a sub-frame, a headlamp 
  • The handlebars if hit hard enough and at the right/wrong angle will bend in a drop.
What upgrades / modifications should I consider?Engine / Tuning
  • TBC
  • There are loads of choices out there, but most owners fit after-market stainless headers & link pipes due to the cheap black painted OEM system rotting away in the UK climate.
Suspension / Handling
  • For a start the suspension is firm but harsh and poorly controlled. So new owners will need to set up the suspension for their weight and riding style.
Chain & Sprocket's
  • The brakes are the same fantastic blue spot calipers as found on a lot of Yamaha motorcycles. The popular mod is to replace the old hoses with braided.
  • Renthals are popular
Clutch lever
  • If, like me, you have medium sized hands you may want to install a span-adjustable lever. The FZ1 has the same useless cable-based clutch that the FZS had, which has clutch biting point foibles.
  • The MK2 has same ones as fitted to the FZS1000.
Are there any specific service items or issues I should be aware of?

Rear suspension
  • Always inspect the suspension linkages as they are prone to seizing and, by now, the suspension units themselves will probably be needed a rebuild or refresh, so look for any weeps and check their damping by bouncing the bike up and down.
  • Front forks - tbc
Valve Clearances
  • If you are planning on checking the valve clearances yourself (need to confirm mileage intervals) a service manual such as those from Haynes & Clymer is always recommended.
Service intervals
  • minor every (tbc) major every (TBC), valve clearance every (tbc).
Changing spark plugs
  • This is relatively easy on the both the Mk1/Mk2
Electrical connectors
  • Given the age of the bike it is worthwhile going through all of the electrical connector blocks on the bike checking for corrosion and making repairs where necessary. An electrical contact cleaner spray can be used to de-grease and clean both the inside & outside of the blocks, the outside of the blocks should be treated sparingly with a product that will repel water and prevent corrosion such as dielectric grease or ACF50. Particular attention should be given to both the larger connectors below left hand-side subframe where the regulator/rectifier resides.
Carb maintenance
  • Sloiw return to idle can be caused by a few things, most fo which are common (sticking throttle cable, sticking slides etc). But a not so common faul is a partially or fully blocked breather -
Popular mods done be members on here
  • Headlight bulb mod, both side on - link
  • Boxeye to Foxeye conversion - link
  • Replace stock headers - link and link
  • Replace stock headers - link
  • Info on fitting an A2 restrictor kit - link

Evening All

Do we have one who lives in Camden? if so can you you need to be aware of what Camden Council are currently trying to push through that will directly effect you and any motorcycle businesses in the area. Mag would appreciate as many signatures as possible on the following open letter (see below) and it would extremely helpful if any of those are from Camden residents -

Open letter to Camden council regarding the Parking Permit and Charges Review 2020We are writing as a concerned group of local businesses, residents and workers in Camden, about the proposed changes to motorcycle parking in Camden.

We are extremely concerned about the effects that these changes will have on motorcyclists who live and work in Camden.  Additionally we believe that the proposals will be detrimental to the economy and life of Camden. We believe these changes are not justified by evidence claimed, and will result in significant damage to the borough and motorcyclists.

We are asking that you meet with interested parties in order to find to an equitable solution for motorcyclists and Camden.
Our main concerns are as follows:

- Damage to the economy of Camden and the livelihoods of those who work in Camden:
The proposed daily and hourly charges for parking will damage the ability of riders to work or volunteer in Camden. This includes delivery riders and couriers, but also volunteer riders for groups such as the Blood Bikers or the Bike Shed Community Response, who are doing vital work during the pandemic. In addition, the proposed limit on daily passes to two years will make it impossible for those who commute into Camden by motorcycle to continue to do so after 2023. It’s a mistake to assume that in all cases walking or cycling and public transport offer a viable alternative. We believe that the net result will be people forced to give up their jobs, or work elsewhere. This will impact not only these individuals but the economy of Camden. 

- Increased crime:
Reducing access to solo motorcycle bays will mean less secure parking. The police have identified secure parking as a key way to reduce moped enabled crime. This therefore has the potential to increase motorcycle theft and undo the good work Camden has done in providing secure facilities. This is of serious concern, not just to motorcyclists in Camden, but to all those who live in, work in, or visit Camden. Stolen motorcycles are commonly used in ‘moped enabled crime’ which impacts every Camden resident and visitor.

- Lack of sufficient consultation:
The short consultation period in a period of unprecedented disruption is disappointing. Fewer people were attending workplaces in Camden during the consultation period than normal due to the pandemic.  Many of those potentially affected by these proposals will not have been aware of the consultation. Multiple offers to discuss the proposals have been made to the council by interested parties, all of which have been refused. We are extremely concerned that the changes will go ahead without reasonable engagement with those who it will affect the most. 

- The proposals are not proportionate:
The evidence presented in the consultation doesn’t support the changes. Charging motorcycles the same amount as cars is disproportionate.  It doesn’t take into account the amount of space motorcycles takes up, nor the lower levels of pollution they produce.

Motorcycling is a transport choice taken by a broad spectrum of individuals, including nurses, doctors, business owners, volunteers, couriers and delivery riders. Those who use motorcycles, due to the nature or length of their journey, often cannot reasonably use other means of transport. For many the economy of motorcycles is the only low cost option for their travel needs.

On a per km basis motorcycles produce significantly lower emissions of CO2 and key pollutants such as NOx, PM10 and PM2.5.  Motorcycles also do not contribute to congestion. Not all trips can be replaced by walking cycling and public transport.  For those that can't, motorcycles present the best alternative to cars for those concerned about air quality. Instead of seeking to unfairly punish motorcyclists, Camden should follow the example of other councils such as Cambridgeshire in recognizing the role of motorcycles as a means to meet their air quality and climate change aims.

We, the undersigned, would ask that you reconsider these proposals.  We believe that they will have a devastating effect on motorcyclists, and those who rely on the value motorcyclists bring to Camden.

FZS600 Fazer / MOVED: Winter & pandemic non usage:
« on: 15 January 2021, 05:17:35 pm »

So doing the obligatory clean on the spare set of calipers for my bandit, while typical brake cleaner is fine for cleaning the discs, pistons and calipers internals - its hopeless at cleaning all the caked on brake dust/road grime on the caliper body. I have always thought, there must be a spray/brush liquid solution that will dissolve the caked on brake dust and road grime, so we don't need to be getting out the wire brush and pick for the seal grooves.

After a bit of research for the outside at least, what we need is a solution/fluid that will react with the iron in the brake dust. Examples I have seen on youtube are for cleaning the brake dust of wheels, but I think it should do the same job on calipers aswell. The idea is you spray it on and leave it to soak for a few minutes, after which time it changes color (usual pink or purple). Then you simply rinse it off with water and for more stubborn instances, agitating with an toothbrush rinse and repeat if as required.

Id like to hear back from any of your guys that have found a product that works well for you? What I have been looking for so far is car wheel cleaner and iron remove like  -
  • WonderWheels Colour change (acid free) wheel cleaner - amazon

Fazer 1000/FZ1 corner / FZ1 and FZS wheel bearings & Seals:
« on: 04 January 2021, 09:23:17 pm »
So as I needed some wheels bearing for the FZ1 I thought I would check if any of the spare bearings I still have for my FZS would fit, and some of them do -
Front wheel: (FZS part numbers same)
  • 2x bearing (ball)- 93306-00420
  • 2x seal - 93106-28043
Sprocket carrier: (FZS part numbers same)
  • 1x bearing (ball)- 93306-20531
  • 1x seal - 93106-40013
Rear Wheel (FZ1):
  • 1x R/H bearing (ball) - 93306-20531 - bearing number 62-28-2-RS
  • 1x R/H seal - 93106-40013 - seal number 40-58-7
  • 1x L/H bearing (roller) - 93317-33590 -  bearing number 35-20-2-RS
Rear Wheel (FZS):
  • 1x R/H bearing (ball) - FZS - 93306-07806 - bearing number 62-28-2-RS (so same as FZ1)
  • 1x R/H seal - 93106-35042 - seal number 35-52-8
  • 1x L/H bearing (roller) - 93317-43580 - bearing number  35-20-2 RS (so same as FZ1)
So the only part that different between both bikes is the R/H (exhaust side) seal, so this means the R/H wheel spacer has different ID/OD between the two bike's.

I personally prefer to source all my bearings/seals from Marksman Industrial, as you can put in the Yamaha (or Suzuki, Honda etc) and it will find your bearing/seal for you. They also have 'bearing kits' for both bikes, which can save you a chunk of change compared to going oem or even wemoto - 

General / Petrol tank prop
« on: 26 December 2020, 10:30:57 pm »
So i was in a shop a while back and I saw the mechanic has a tank prop made out of what looked like a pneumatic car hood prop (see below) and I wonder if there was a shorted one for motorcycles..? Or Will have I have to make one out of a small gas strut & some rubber feet..?


On the hunt for more parts for my 2007 FZ1 -

  • chain and sprocket kit
  • complete rear wheel bearing set.

For Sale & Wanted / SORTED: FZ1 wishbone's & dogbone linkage
« on: 21 December 2020, 04:50:53 pm »
So I just got made aware that I have a non-standard rear suspension wishbones and dogbone on my recently purchased FZ1. So I am on the hunt for a stock items if anyone has them?

This is the part I am referring too -
  • part 21 & 22

So how many FZ1 owners on here, have or have had PR4's on their FZ1..?

I'm asking as the new bike has them and on the way home at 70-80 I was noticing a slight wibble. I have yet to check the pressures that were put in by the bike shop, but I can only imagine to high if anything.  At low speed the bike is rock solid and below 70 I don't notice the wibble at all, I don't believe and it doesn't feel like the wheel is out of balance.

Fazer 1000/FZ1 corner / Gen1/2 Fazer 1000: Common maintenance & tasks
« on: 11 December 2020, 07:52:05 pm »
As we have a few thread for common tasks that get repeated threads, I figured it would make sense to create a sticky with links to all of these threads. I will update this OP as I go, so welcome suggested threads to be added to this sticky.

  • General techniques: Cleaning brake pistons - link
  • Fork overhaul procedure - Regular user, link -Technical user, link
  • FZ6/8/1, FZS(6/1) - Blue Spot caliper service - link
  • LED bulbs for the headlight - link
  • Power/Voltage drop tweak/fix for headlight - link
  • Exup Valve - link - depending on per-year mileage, this should be done every 3 months or twice a year.
  • Wheel Bearing & Seals - link
  • Mirror mod, FZS mirrors on FZ1 - link
  • Spongy brakes on ABS gen2 - link
  • Replacing ignition keys - link
  • Changing the handlebars - link
  • Engine warning light on & fault code 34 - link
  • Generator rotor rebuild - link - but its safer to just replace the rotor - link
  • Generator rotor bearing/s replacement - link
  • Wheel Bearing & Seals - link
  • TFT Dash project - link

General / down..?
« on: 05 December 2020, 02:56:53 pm »
Can anyone else connect to  ?

Fazer 1000/FZ1 corner / FZ1: Mirror Mod - FZS mirrors on FZ1
« on: 05 December 2020, 02:51:00 pm »

So I am buying a 2007 FZ1, and one of the issues that needs to be fixed is both mirrors need replacing. So before the bike shop replaces them with stock mirrors, can I ask has anyone fitted different or other Fazer mirrors to the existing mounting points..? Im asking because FZ1 like the Z1000SX have mirrors that don't move all that easily. I commute in/out of London so need mirrors that pull in & push out as easy as the ones on my FZS1000 did.


So 2 options I'm looking at are -
  • Adjust the tension on the base on the FZ1 mirrors so they fold back easier.
  • Or cut the bottoms of a set of FZS and FZ1 mirrors and weld the FZS base/s onto the FZ1 mirrors. Allowing to them mount the FZS mirrors on the FZ1.

Fazer 1000/FZ1 corner / Low mileags but sad FZS1000
« on: 27 October 2020, 08:33:25 pm »
So this popped on autotrader -

For the mileage/price I thought it must be mint, but no just another trader taking the piss -
  • The rear grab handles are missing.
  • The wheels are dirty and have dings, marks and scratches.
  • All front & rear left foot pegs, swing arm, link pipe (which is rusty) and fairing infill's have all been stained by some cleaner.
  • The handlebars are damaged, bars ends aren't stock and the brake lever has a worn end.
  • The headlight bulbs have tinted bulbs that will fail an mot.
  • The rear wheel looks like it has a rub mark from the rear brake house? or is that a reflection.
  • The wind screen has a big scratches right across it.
  • The drive chain looks like its rusty? and the rear axel nut has damage/corrosion.
  • It has clearly its been dropped on the right hand side, the dent in the tank, the front fairing has been repainted (decals are missing). That also means the sub-frame, the right hand infill, the headlight mount points may have been tweaked/broken. And worse the bike could be a Cat-D.

General / Who on here has a CB1300?
« on: 16 October 2020, 10:15:38 pm »
Spoke to someone here a few months ago about a Honda CB1300, but cant remember who it was...

General / MOVED: Whiney noise
« on: 14 October 2020, 10:13:53 pm »

General / Question: Test ride a bike before you buy it?
« on: 03 October 2020, 05:43:11 pm »
So just came back from looking at a 2013, FZ1, 14k for sale by a one man dealer 10 mins from me. But today despite offering to put down full purchase price down as a deposit while I test rode the bike, the guy wasn't interested. My offer was above and beyond the £1k that some dealers charge, so I'm guessing this guy just wasn't setup correctly insurance wise? As in, I Have multi bike policy which allows me to ride  other bikes. I also had the pleasure of his father giving me the benefit of his uninformed armchair opinion, to which I had to respectfully counter several times.
  • So my question is, how many of you would buy a bike without test riding it first?
  • And was I being too reasonable offering a full purchase price as a deposit?

General / Utter twat award goes to: Jordan Bikes Leeds.
« on: 29 September 2020, 08:57:08 pm »
Just spotted this on ebay -

So par for the course that a stealer is trying to palm off a 2012 as a 2013, but its so far over the book price for the a 2012 w/21k that its in a different time zone.

But that's not the best bit, look carefully at the side shots of the frame..... the main engine mounting bolt/s are missing from both sides...
 I was going to post this in thats got my goat thread, but this one is extra special so I figured it deserved its own post.

[edit - changed subject title)

Fazer 1000/FZ1 corner / Calling all Gen2 owners: 2nd gear issue/s
« on: 15 September 2020, 07:04:30 pm »
Gnasher and I have already chatted at length about this, but I am curious to hear if any other Gen2 owners have have the same issue I am seeing or any other 2nd gear related issues. So here is the history on this -

  • If I change gears gently, roughly a 1/3 of the time it will go into the neutral instead of 2nd
  • If I make a conscious effort to firmly engage 2nd gear, I can feel the foot lever notch twice (so into neutral and then into second)
  • If I give it some welly away from the lights, so far I have found it goes into second no problem (I assume because I am being far less gentle with the foot lever).

  • Gear lever rubber – This is in good condition, with little to no wear
  • Gear lever linkage - There is no slack in the gear lever, it is correctly adjusted for my foot/boot.
  • Clutch lever stack -  It appeared to be correctly adjusted and the span adjustment set for my hand size.
  • Rear drive chain  - It is correctly adjusted.
  • Dirt/Old engine oil - The bike has had a recent oil and filter change.

  • Today I moved the lever down one spline on the the gear change shaft, so that its over adjusted and a little bit too low to deliberately give me more upward movement. I also checked and re-adjusted the clutch lever so it was giving me atleast 3mm on full left/right lock. Then spent a few hours riding around.
  • What I found was it 'mostly' removed the 'going into neutral instead of second'. It did not remove the 'knotch' that I was getting every few gear changes. But then on the way home doing 20mph behind a car, I snicked from 1st into second and sure enough, went into fucking neutral, and it was going so well.

So in addition to my other owners request above, What R1 did the engine for the FZ1 come from? so I can check if owner of that year etc have had issue with 2nd gear etc.

Front page / Yamaha Motorcycles UK: contact number change
« on: 14 September 2020, 04:57:12 pm »
For anyone that is interested Yamaha UK have removed the Surrey number (01932 3580000) from the website, but it still works. Its now showing an 0203 027 5116 number, and you just get through to the Netherlands where you are not speaking to a technical person.

Its pretty pointless talking to the Netherlands office and they cannot speak for or on behalf of Yamaha UK.

General / Voulunteering as a Blood biker?
« on: 25 August 2020, 10:35:55 am »
So flicking through a few of AnyManCam videos, I cam across one where he did a ride out with his step dad who is a Blood Bike rider.

I immediately thought Ive been stuck at home for last few months,  partly due to Covid-19 and being between work contracts and I could potentially do this to help out but there is one obstacle to overcome. And that is that even though I have been riding for 20yrs I would need an Advanced riding qualification, eg IAM Green Badge, RoSPA Advanced, DVSA Enhanced Rider or Police Class 1, any of which must have been RENEWED within last 3 years. 

Does anyone on here do this and if so which of the above course's was the most cost effective?

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