Date: 02-03-24  Time: 09:36 am

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Messages - Gnasher

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Fazer 1000/FZ1 corner / Re: 02 Fazer 1000 cutting out
« on: 01 March 2024, 11:52:36 am »
FZS1000s don't have ECUs, they have an igniter unit/box in the tail hump.  As far as I'm aware there's no connection between the cooling fan cutting in/out and the igniter box, the bikes system isn't closed loop, it has a now old fashioned CDI type system, I won't go into to details. 

From the sounds of what your describing, you've got water ingress either in the ignitor box, starter relay, staring circuit cut off relay. it's also possible there's an issue with the rectifier/regulator.  Remove all the plugs to all of them, check for corrosion, clean and try if that doesn't work it's highly likely there's water in the ignitor box.  This will slowly heat up causing a vapour that will short out the unit and stop the bike, it condenses on cooling down the bike restarts, this will happen with alarming time accuracy 20/30mins or so.

It happens to proper ECU's, they have to be opened dried or replaced. 

Check all the connections and test all the components first.  If they're all ok, swap the ignitor box, you can try and borrow one from a known running bike first, to replace they're approx £80 second hand.       

General / Re: Looking for MK1 600 tube
« on: 28 February 2024, 10:31:46 am »
 :agree  ??

FZS600 Fazer / Re: Mystery Alternator component
« on: 22 February 2024, 12:56:03 pm »
Looks like a location dowel from the cover.  It should be in the front lower bolt hole.  ;)

FZS600 Fazer / Re: Headlights Not Working
« on: 15 February 2024, 08:21:46 am »
It's worth a check.  But my money is on the switch or wiring as mentioned. It's also very possible there's corrosion in one or all the connecters that power/join that side of the circuit. 

FZS600 Fazer / Re: Headlights Not Working
« on: 14 February 2024, 07:22:59 pm »
It's a foxeye model, so both bulbs are supposed to be illuminated at the same time for dipped and main beam.

Since the flash works I've ruled out the bulbs for now.

Foxeye models use 2 H4 bulbs.  The high/beam elements are in the same bulb so it's possible the low beam elements have blown but not the high.  It's rare but I've seen it so check the bulbs first. Falling that check the fuses and that there's power to the switch, both sides.  If there is power in but not out it's the switch, corrosion, broken, earthed etc.  If theres no power in or out it's the wiring you need to check, same if power out.

FZS600 Fazer / Re: Rear Brake Service Kit
« on: 12 February 2024, 03:39:12 pm »
The kit/s are available from Yamaha these are with and without pistons

1. A piston and seals (one side) is 51L-W0057-00 £71.71 last time I bought and fitted one, you'll need 2 kits if you want to replace both sides.

2. Seal kit this contains seals for both sides i.e. 2 main and 2 dust seals 51L-W0047-11 £38.33 last time I bought a kit.

You can get cheaper and almost same quality: - 

Piston and seal kit £19.99

Seal kit £5.99 you need 2 of them

If you or the stealer are going to do the job properly, the caliper should be be split.  In which case I would recommend you also replace the caliper body seal Yamaha don't supply this.  They either intend the body isn't split (possible but harder and needs specialist tools to do the job, to guarantee not damaging the pistons) or reused, Which is possible but often the seal has become hardened and won't reseal properly if reused. 

In which case you need this from Yambits £2.99 of the same part can be obtained from Suzuki's GS500 rear caliper.   

These kits from Yambits are good quality although not as good as OE, it's personal choice and pocket depth.

There is others like Wemto but I personally don't use them, I found their quality to be crap and not much better or the same as crap cheap fleebay stuff.

Other parts may also be required if they can't be cleaned or are damaged

Pad pins you may need 2

4FL-25924-00 £10.74 each

Yambits £6.99

Bleed screws you may need 2

15BW004800 £13.45 each this includes the dust cap

Yambits £2.99 £1.25

It's also possible the Pad support shim is corroded/broken

This is only available from Yamaha 51L-25919-00 £12.64

All that said the actual condition of the caliper bodies, pistons etc will determine what you actually need.  Pistons can be cleaned and reused for example, the same may apply to bleed nipples, pad pins, dust cap and pad support.     

FZS600 Fazer / Re: 1998 fzs 600 coolant o rings
« on: 09 February 2024, 01:11:01 pm »

OE are Nitron, hopefully you've got the correct size both ID,OD and thickness, they have a habit of picking non commercially available sizes.  You fit the non standard, they work for a while, then start leaking.   :rolleyes [size=78%]  [/size]

FZS600 Fazer / Re: 1998 fzs 600 coolant o rings
« on: 05 February 2024, 02:03:24 pm »
i agree, ive got the elbows removed now but cant find anything showing the correct size o rings so just going to take to a shop that sell viton o rings to try and match some new ones up if they have the size

Just use the OE Orings: waterpump  part 24 No 9321015566 £1.76 each, ignore it's 1999 drawing they are all the same. 

FZS600 Fazer / Re: 1998 fzs 600 coolant o rings
« on: 03 February 2024, 03:58:00 pm »
If you're referring to the elbows that go into the cylinder head between the intakes?  It's not worth the effort and faff trying just pull the crabs back by removing the rear air box rubbers.

That way it's done right 1st go.

For Sale & Wanted / Re: Yoshimura Tri Oval Busa End Cans Boxed
« on: 03 February 2024, 12:59:22 pm »

For Sale & Wanted / Re: Yoshimura Tri Oval Busa End Cans unboxed
« on: 03 February 2024, 12:58:46 pm »

For Sale & Wanted / Re: Givi 46lt Top Box
« on: 03 February 2024, 12:57:07 pm »

For Sale & Wanted / Re: Givi 40lt Monokey panniers as new not used
« on: 03 February 2024, 12:55:54 pm »
Just giving this a bump.

For Sale & Wanted / Re: Hayabusa 06
« on: 03 February 2024, 12:54:33 pm »
Just giving this a bump. 

Fazer8 / FZ8 / Re: Grabby Clutch
« on: 02 February 2024, 10:18:38 am »
Adjust the free play at the push rod end and check the clutch pull rod assembly, it has a bush and a bearing on it, any play will stop the clutch releasing fully.

Fazer8 / FZ8 / Re: Fazer 800 Running issue - With video
« on: 02 February 2024, 10:10:55 am »
The symptoms are suggesting issues with the cold start circuit.  There are several sensor the ECU uses to control that circuit.  You state you've tested them, try disconnecting the temperature sensors one at a time see if you can get the revs to drop to 1200. Test fuel pump pressure, you'll need a gauge for that. Also check the fuel return circuit ie blocked or restricted.  Check the air box for restrictions or damage eg holes/splits. Look for signs of a boost plug these are plugged into air temperature sensor in the intake, these fail overtime.  Some are home made bodge jobs and cut into the loom, only to be removed on selling.  The std sensor will test ok, but if the loom is damage the circuit won't work correctly.  Check the loom for signs of an alarm having been removed or fitted incorrectly.

From what you've stated, over fueling is your issue, but the problem may well not sit n the fuelling circuit.  But rather one of the supporting circuits. 

General / Re: Insurance renewal - WTF!!!!!
« on: 26 January 2024, 03:28:26 pm »
There's a lot of this going on at present.  Pretty much all insurance has gone up 20-30% some 100% plus, much depends on your location, your employment and if you add commuting, anti theft kit really gets you very little if anything these days.  Last year I had a similar experience mine went up by £90, shopped about got it for same as I'd paid year before i.e. no increase.  I'd been with the company for 25yrs, loyalty is worth nothing nowadays it really isn't.  Some are saying they have seen no, or even a reduction in their renewal, its a real lottery. Cynically some are just profiteering, plain and simple.           

Shop about, but expect a 20 - 30% increase, over last years premium.  This I'm told is due to, wait for it................ supply and cost of parts/materials due to Covid (profiteering more like) and pot holes!     

General / Re: Finding gloves that will fit: harder than usual?
« on: 24 January 2024, 02:49:25 pm »

- So I have looked at all of helds gear, its all leather

The pair I've suggested are not.   The palm, little and ring fingers are made of goat skin as is across the knuckle armour of the glove, the rest is Taslan, a very cleaver woven fabric mix with high wear, water repellency.  Goat skin is tougher and softer than cow hide weight for weight, therefore can be thinner, is more water repellent than cow hide and it dries faster.  I've used mine in 4 hours plus of continuous rain, the don't get heavy or have that wetted out feel you get with leather, they dry out to a damp level in at room temperature after about 4 hours, almost dry after a day in office/work place.  This can be further increased by regular cleaning and reproofing, with those spray on proofers.  A stated I wouldn't use these if I was planning on very long and cold rides, I'd use the Gerbing.               

and non of the gloves have regular cuffs, its either too long or too short :-/

As stated in my reference to Gerbing and their cuff lengths, I prefer to have the glove cuff under my jacket, the held gloves fits under mine without issues.  Sadly many jackets aren't cut well these days, often too short in the arm length and/or the cuff circumference isn't big enough to allow longer/winter cuff gloves to be placed under them.  The other issue can be back/chest armour, many jackets aren't sold with back armour/chest in place, rather it has to be bought as an extra.  People try on the jacket even sitting on a bike or frame in the shop testing the sleeve length and across the back/chest fit, but they don't do it with the optional back/chest armour fitted, once either or both are fitted the sleeve length is now too short!   

That and not all the held range come in short finger lengths annoyingly...

Don't know about that, all I can say is I've recommended Held cold champ glove to many males and females of all sizes, no one as yet has complained about fit.  Some have moved to a larger or smaller size than their last make of glove but all have got a good fit. 

- Had a look on SBS at the five range, found one pair that fit my requirments aaaannd, that only have one size left. And for the money Five want and there is no gortex...

Never tried Five or currently know anyone who has, so can't comment with experience.  Looking at their range, which on the face looks good, but price is telling me their not going to cut it with the top range Held kit, but I could well be wrong.  Assuming you're looking for a winter glove?  Gortex is approx half the other half is something they call Drytech, Bit puzzled about availability though Sporstbikeshop appear to carry all their range and as you no doubt know you can try before you buy, use them a lot these days.  Plus there's no quibble with returns.  They're a few others stockist, but they appear not to stock the whole range.   

General / Re: Finding gloves that will fit: harder than usual?
« on: 22 January 2024, 01:08:28 pm »
Try these

I've used these and their predecessors ( you might still be able to get these if you hunt around) for about 10yrs ish, best I could find, for fit, performance and value etc, for under hour or so riding in 5* or all
 day for above 5*.   

But do bear in mind and from my own experience of long haul (Germany/UK and West Country/Oxfordshire daily) commuting, it doesn't matter what make/type/expense once the temperature starts going south of 5* nothing will keep you warm for longer than an hour at best.  If you want to keep both warm and dry you need heated, my go to is these are these

Used them in -5*  4- 8 hours, warm hands on mid setting and for 4-5 hours of rain dry hands, had them a good few years.  The only criticism I have is that they are long cuff only.  I always put the jacket cuff over my gloves, I still do with these but my WP has big enough cuffs to accommodate that, many don't.  That said a mate uses them and puts the long cuff over his jacket, using the draw string inner flap on the gloves, he's been on the same rides as me and hasn't got wet.

As for fit I think it's fair to say many of us have the same issues and that the sizing differs not only across the makes but one pair and another of the same make/type.  I've even swap a left/right with another pair in the past to get a better fit, my issue isn't normally finger length, it's thumb and across the knuckles.  As with a lot of things that are made for the masses it's a trade off/compromise in certain areas, I have to learn to adapt to any given trade off/compromise, obviously there's a limit to that and we all have different limits.

Unless you go bespoke, which you can but it's not cheap, you're going to have to compromise.               

Fazer 1000/FZ1 corner / Re: Throttle cable routing
« on: 08 January 2024, 04:02:25 pm »
This my help you further, courtesy of PATs page. If you know what you're looking at the throttle cables are obvious.

Fazer 1000/FZ1 corner / Re: Throttle cable routing
« on: 08 January 2024, 02:13:33 pm »
@Gnasher will correct me if Im wrong, but  think they go over those pipes and then through a guide loop bolted to the righthand side of the steering column and then info the handlebar assembly.

Sounds about right to me.  Make sure you go under the frame cross member, which is above and forward of the where the cables joins to the carb linkages.  Over the top of the engine and over the front rad hose, up through guide loop, up through the back of the fork yokes, around the right fork tube and up to the handle bar and throttle housing.

Once connected and adjusted, start the bike and with the engine at idle, turn the bars fully left and right.  If the revs rise/fall the cable is either incorrectly routed/adjusted or both.  There should be no change is rpm and you should have full throttle movement/return at full lock both sides.

Fazer 1000/FZ1 corner / Re: Hard starting cold or hot
« on: 29 December 2023, 01:36:54 pm »
Ok, battery voltage after 3 days standing is 12.7 when off so that’s healthy. I drained the fuel bowls and no water in the fuel. Pump whirred up and she fired up with no problems which is quite annoying as I still have no idea why she wouldn’t start 3 days ago.

This suggests damp/water ingress somewhere in/along the ignition circuit, which has now dried out.

I did check the air filter too and it’s filthy and black and the sponge is starting to come off on the inside. It’s a pipercross filter that Mike fitted about 6 years ago when he Ivanised the bike. I do clean it yearly but it’s so bad this time I’ve just ordered a new one.

This won't help but still isn't the cause.

I’ve also cleaned the connector going into the Cdi unit and put electrical insulation grease in the contacts to protect it from the damp.

This is a high possibility

Fazer 1000/FZ1 corner / Re: Hard starting cold or hot
« on: 29 December 2023, 01:29:51 pm »
Just for other peoples information, the bike still started even with the fuel pump electrical plug disconnected!

It will providing there's fuel in the float bowls ;)

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