Date: 25-02-24  Time: 18:49 pm

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Topics - teecee90

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Fazer 1000/FZ1 corner / LED Headlight Bulbs
« on: 17 September 2022, 06:03:11 pm »
If anyone is looking to upgrade their headlight bulbs to LED, I can highly recommend these as a direct replacement. No heat sink, ballast resistors or any modifications required whatsoever. A bit pricey, but great quality.

Fazer 1000/FZ1 corner / Another little upgrade
« on: 03 December 2021, 04:30:21 pm »
After fitting the Nitron R2 shock I couldn't leave the front end as it was, could I!

Fazer 1000/FZ1 corner / Rear disc warped
« on: 17 September 2021, 05:23:33 pm »
Bike went for MOT today. Passed but with one advisory - fluctuating rear brake. Tester suggested most likely a warped disc. Front and rear discs were replaced just 19 months ago for a full set of Brembo Serie Oro and have only covered 4,100 miles.

I've checked the rear disc with a dial gauge and it is indeed slightly warped. Very disappointed as these are meant to be a good quality product and were not cheap.

Just in case anyone else is considering these as replacement discs.

Fazer 1000/FZ1 corner / Nice little upgrade
« on: 20 March 2021, 12:10:42 pm »
Just overhauled he rear end with new swing arm and shock linkage bearings, pins and seals. Decided to upgrade the shock while I was at it.... R6 shock has gone into the spares box for now.

For Sale & Wanted / Custom fazer
« on: 23 September 2020, 02:45:21 pm »

Fazer 1000/FZ1 corner / Dyno Results
« on: 21 August 2020, 04:44:48 pm »
Had my bike Ivanised (slip-on) by Mike a few years ago. I know it goes well but decided to put it on the dyno just out of curiosity.

130.5bhp, 75.04 torque, lovely power curve and fueling is spot-on. The guy running the dyno was very impressed and said dont do anything to it, its perfect! Well pleased - Ivans development expertise and Mike's brilliant work continue to deliver.....

Fazer 1000/FZ1 corner / Hyperpro fork springs
« on: 03 June 2020, 05:27:31 pm »
My Hyperpro progressive springs have arrived. Would welcome forum members views on a couple of things.

1. The springs come supplied with SAE10W fork oil as the recommended grade. Personally, I'm inclined to stick with the 5W grade or maybe split the difference with 7.5W. Does anyone have any experience of different oil grades with these particular springs?

2. The recommended oil gap according to the instructions is 170mm. This is quite a bit different to the stock setting of 140mm. Again, does anyone have any recommendations about this - should I go with the Hyperpro recommended gap, the standard gap or something in between?

3. The instructions suggest that the springs should be installed with the shorter/tighter pitch coils at the top. The standard springs have the shorter/tighter coils at the bottom. I'm inclined to think that it doesn't really matter which way round they go as long as both forks are the same. Any views/opinions on this?

Any advice or comments very much appreciated.

Fazer 1000/FZ1 corner / Fork overhaul procedure
« on: 22 May 2020, 12:48:20 pm »
I'm about to overhaul my forks (when the Hyperpro springs arrive) and have put together this procedure from reading and consolidating various forum posts. Grateful to the original contributors (no credit is due to me for any of this) and welcome any comments and/or corrections.

1. Torque wrench
2. Fork seal driver (or home made equivalent)
3. 6mm hex/allen key (pinch bolts)
4. 24mm socket/ring spanner (fork caps)
5. 17mm socket/ring spanner (pre-load adjuster)
6. 19mm hex/allen key (front wheel axle shaft)
7. 8mm hex/allen key (damper rod bolt)
8. 12mm socket (caliper bolts)
9. 14mm spanner (damper rod nut)
10. 8mm socket (fender bolts & brake line brackets)
11. P2/JIS screwdriver (fender screws)

1. Oil seals (x2) 5VX2314500
2. Dust seals (x2) 4TX2314401
3. Snap ring (x2) 4TX2315600
4. Upper bushes (x2) 4TX23125B0
5. Lower bushes (x2) 4TX23135B0
6. Copper crush washer (x2) 90430-10171
7. Fork oil of choice (1ltr)

1.     Fully back off the pre-load to reduce spring pressure on the caps for later removal and loosen upper yoke clamp pinch bolts
2.     Loosen fork caps but don’t remove the caps at this stage
3.     Jack up and remove front wheel, fender/mudguard and brake calipers
4.     Loosen lower pinch bolts and remove forks
5.     Unscrew the fork caps from upper tubes carefully (will be under some spring tension)
6.     Loosen the lock nut and remove the caps from the damper rod.
7.     Check the cap o-rings for damage and replace if necessary.
8.     Remove the thin damper adjustment rod from the centre of the damper rod.
9.  Remove the damper rod nut, spacer and washer/spring seat.
10.  Remove the spring, noting orientation (tighter section/pitch at bottom, although probably not critical provided both forks are the same orientation).
11.  Drain oil.
12.  Remove dust cover/seal.
13.  Remove oil seal spring clip
14.  Clamp lower fork leg (workmate or soft-jaw vice) and hold damper rod with special tool (e.g. a broom handle or preferably a 26mm socket taped or welded to a 18-20 inch long ½ inch diameter tube/conduit/plastic pipe with a hole drilled through the top for a screwdriver to act as a T-bar). Note - special tool might not be necessary for disassembly if using air/battery impact wrench but may still be required for assembly (stage 31).
15.  Remove damper rod hex bolt from bottom of lower fork leg.
16.  Remover damper rod/unit.
17.  Separate the upper/inner tube from lower/outer tube by pulling the inner tube forcefully but carefully (in a slide hammer type action). NOTE – avoid bottoming the inner tube during this procedure as the oil stopper will be damaged.
18.  Clean/flush the forks and components with brake cleaner. Use compressed air to blow out all oil passages and dry the components.
19.  If necessary, polish the steel tubes with fine scotchbrite pad or 1000 grit wet/dry to ensure a smooth finish for the new seals to slide on.
20.  Install the lower bushes onto the upper/inner fork tube. Use assembly grease or fork oil on the bushes and lube the outside of the tube with fork oil.
21.  Turn the upper/inner fork tube upside down.
22.  The oil flow stopper is tapered with a machined collar or lip on the other end. Place the tapered end into the end of the upside-down fork tube with the small end facing up.
23.  NOTE – the service manual indicates that there is a flat section that needs to be aligned “downwards” in line with the compression adjuster – see picture. Not sure there is in fact a flat section as shown in the picture so orientation may not be that important provided the shoulder/lip is properly located.

24.  Slide the lower/outer fork tube over the upper/inner tube trapping the tapered oil stopper in place. The stopper MUST fit flush and flat in the recess cut into the bottom of the lower tube.
25.  Holding the two sections together, turn the assembly to the upright position and clamp the lower leg/tube in a workmate or soft jaw vice.
26.  Keep the fork vertical for the rest of the assembly.
27.  Insert the damper unit ensuring it locates properly in the recess in the lower leg. Without moving the upper/inner fork tube in the lower/outer leg, install the bolt up through the bottom of the fork leg and secure the Allen bolt into the damper rod. Use a new copper crush washer and torque progressively to 35Nm.
28.  You may need to hold the damper using the special tool (step 16) to stop it turning whilst tightening the bolt, but it is most likely not needed at this stage.
29.  If the damper rod tips to the side during this process….STOP. Wiggle the damper cartridge a bit to get everything into proper alignment. If you can’t get it to stay straight as you tighten the bolt, remove the upper/inner tube from the lower/outer leg and START OVER. If you don’t…. the aluminum oil stopper will be damaged, the damper will bind and the forks will suffer extreme stiction and internal wear.
30.  Once the damper is in straight and the bolt torqued to specs, use assembly grease/fork oil on the rest of the components before installation.
31.  Install the upper fork guide/bush, with guide washer. User a fork seal driver or equivalent to set it in place in the lower/outer leg.
32.  Now fit the seal – lubricate the seal lips with LS grease. Apply fork oil to the upper/inner fork tube. Use some plastic/cling film over the top of the fork tube to get the seal started without damaging it. Use a fork seal driver or equivalent to set it in place in the lower/outer leg.
33.  Fit the snap ring and dust seal (push fit only).
34.  Add approx. 350ml of fork oil initially (final spec is 440ml). Standard grade oil is SAE 5w. Some prefer 7.5w or 10w for a firmer ride.
35.  Slowly stroke/pump the damper rod in and out at least 10 times to bleed air from the system. Do not pull the damper up to its full extent or this may re-introduce air into the system
36.  Slowly stroke/pump the inner tube up and down at least 10 times to distribute the fork oil once more. Limit upward strokes to about 150mm to avoid air entering the system.
37.  Leave to settle for at least 10 minutes and then top-up with sufficient oil to ensure there is a suitable air gap, as measured from the top of the fork with the spring out and tubes compressed. Standard spec air gap is 140mm.
38.  Install the spring (tightest section at bottom is standard) and the thin rebound adjuster rod down the centre of the damper rod.
39.  Install the spring seat/washer, spacer and nut. Wind the lock nut all the way down the thread initially.
40.  Falcon recommends before refitting the top cap to wind the rebound adjuster screw out all the way, then back in again by 42 clicks. Eight clicks equates to one full 360 degree rotation of the screw. This ensures that you retain the full range of adjustment on re-assembly.
41.  Fit the fork cap and wind it down as far as it will go on the damper rod. Then back-off the lock nut up the damper rod until it tightens/locks against the top cap.
42.  If possible, torque the top cap down now (25Nm) while you can still get a socket to it. If you do it back in the fork clamps, you will need to remove the handlebars. Might also be worth setting the preload and rebound to the required settings at this stage as well for the same reasons.
43.  Refit the forks into the yokes. Consider setting the top of the forks 5-10mm through the top yoke (a popular mod to quicken the steering / turn-in). Temporarily tighten the lower yoke pinch bolts. Tighten the fork cap 25Nm (if not already done at step 42). Tighten the upper yoke pinch bolts to 30Nm. Fully tighten the lower pinch bolts to 23Nm.
44.  Reset preload, rebound and compression settings, if not already done.
45.  Front wheel/fork alignment – install the wheel and axle. Leave the calipers off or open the pads so they are loose. Torque the axle to normal spec (72Nm). Now, the right side is fixed (from the front looking to the rear) or non-floating and the left side fork is free to float or move slightly on the axle. Push the left fork tube at the axle as far in towards the wheel rim as possible. Let it spring back on its own. Note this position in relation to the end of the axle (preferably using a Vernier caliper to measure this distance). Now pull out the same fork leg at the bottom and again, let it spring back on its own. Measure and note this location in relation to the axle. Now split the difference. Set the floating fork in the middle of those two points. Now tighten the pinch bolt for the axle on that fork (23Nm).

Useful Links,15263.0.html

Fazer 1000/FZ1 corner / Fork noise
« on: 09 May 2020, 11:57:03 am »
Noticed today that my forks are making a bit of a clonking noise when bounced. Not sure why I decided to give them a bounce today, but I did....

Is this noise normal (video link below)?

Bike has done 31k miles, had a fork oil change at 24k miles but never had a rebuild with new seals or bushes. Seals are not leaking and the bike rides fine.

Fazer 1000/FZ1 corner / Rear disk bolts - torque setting
« on: 09 March 2020, 08:34:21 pm »
Can anyone clarify the correct torque settings for the rear disk bolts? The service manual has contradictory information on this (not for the first time). On page 4-11 it shows 18 Nm, but on p 2-22 it says 23 Nm. I've just put new disks on and torqued to 18 Nm but am now worried they may not be tight enough. Rear bolts are M8 and front bolts are M6, so makes sense that the rear should be tighter.

Really don't want to have to take the bolts out and do it again - they are loctited in.  :'(

For Sale & Wanted / WANTED - FAN for gen 1 thou
« on: 06 December 2019, 07:45:16 pm »

Fazer 1000/FZ1 corner / Have I f***ed it?
« on: 06 December 2019, 07:18:31 pm »


So, just left my bike ticking over in the garage for about 15 minutes. When I went back the temperature warning light was on and the gauge said 122 degrees. Turned it off straight away and could hear the coolant boiling. I assume the fan must have failed...

What are the chances I have f***ed it and what is the most likely outcome - head gasket?

Fazer 1000/FZ1 corner / Miss-fire, rough running, poor starting
« on: 09 June 2019, 10:34:58 pm »
Hi folks

My Fazer has started playing up. Difficult to start but when started it idles ok for a while but miss-fires when revved and the oil light and temperature lights come on simultaneously then go off, ideas rough for a while before settling down. When revved again it miss-fires and then cuts out. When trying to re-start from hot it doesn't want to start but turns over very quickly as iff it has very little compression. Have ordered a compression tester but would welcome any views in the meantime.

Only thing I have done recently is add a bottle of red-line fuel cleaner in an attempt to sort out the rough idle (thinking it was maybe gummed up pilot jets). Probably shouldn't have put the whole bottle in - now thinking I may have fried the effing engine....

Fazer 1000/FZ1 corner / Am I running rich?
« on: 21 March 2017, 09:22:49 pm »
These plugs were fitted new last July about three months after getting Ivanised. The bike has done about 3000 miles since then.

Fazer 1000/FZ1 corner / Valve clearances - out of spec
« on: 19 March 2017, 11:44:50 am »
Well I guess Im one of the unlucky ones.....

This job started as a simple AIS removal and, typically, has progressed to a much bigger job. The classic - "I might as well just do so-and-so while I'm at it." Anyway, decided to check the valve clearances while I had the front end stripped. The bike has just about covered 26k miles so is due for a check anyway.

All except one is within spec (see picture). Question is.... is it that critical?

I haven't yet looked up how big a job it is to re-shim the offending valve. My instinct is just to get on and do the job properly while it's stripped down. But what are the consequences of just leaving it?

To be honest, I rather expected that any out-of-spec readings would more likely be over-tight valves rather than loose ones. But perhaps that's just exposing my ignorance of the engineering...

The other question is .... is it worth re-shimming any of the others that are close to spec while Im at it, or just the one that needs it?

Cheers foccers.

Fazer 1000/FZ1 corner / Coolant pipes on cylinder head
« on: 17 March 2017, 07:55:12 pm »
Is it worth trying to clean, repaint and refit these or just replace the damn things? Seriously worried about dislodging all the crap into the valve train as well. Any advice appreciated.

Fazer 1000/FZ1 corner / Silver Engine Paint
« on: 19 February 2017, 03:40:37 pm »
Has anyone re-painted their engine and managed to get a good colour match?

I notice from previous posts that some have recommended Simoniz Engine Enamel but I have painted a test panel and it doesn't look right to my eyes - too much on the silver spectrum whereas the original is more grey in colour. Hamerite Silver smooth looks a better match, but I'm not sure it will withstand the engine temperature.

I've looked on RS Motorcycle paints and see that they do the correct colour (light yellowish grey), but again am not sure whether it will withstand the high temperatures on the engine block and cylinder head. There is nothing on their website that says it is a high temperature paint.

Any help greatly appreciated.

By the way - this 'project' started off as just an AIS removal job, but decided I had to do something about the state of the engine paint while I was at it....

Fazer 1000/FZ1 corner / Painting exhaust collector box
« on: 04 February 2017, 09:16:55 pm »
Has anyone tried painting the cast exhaust collector box? It's the only thing in my opinion that lets the bike appearance down. They always seem to rust and look nasty. If anyone has tried painting, did it turn okay and does the paint stay on for long? If so, what paint did you use?


Fazer 1000/FZ1 corner / Belly Pan
« on: 09 October 2016, 07:55:32 pm »

Just bought this belly pan off ebay. Wasn't cheap but looks in pretty good condition. Just noticed that the front fitting brackets don't look right. What do you think and does anyone have any of the correct brackets?

Fazer 1000/FZ1 corner / Tail Tidy
« on: 21 August 2016, 07:21:26 pm »
Has anyone tried to fit an FZ1 tail tidy to a Gen1 ?

Fazer 1000/FZ1 corner / Multi-Gauge
« on: 06 August 2016, 08:31:17 am »

I've ordered one of the multi gauges to replace the fuel gauge. Has anyone who has fitted the gauge used the speedo healer function just to get a more accurate speedo reading with standard gearing? If so, how did you set it up please?

Fazer 1000/FZ1 corner / Colour Codes
« on: 28 July 2016, 08:06:27 pm »
Anyone know how to interpret this colour code?

Fazer 1000/FZ1 corner / Venhill Braided Lines
« on: 25 July 2016, 12:07:49 am »
Can anyone advise the cheapest place to get a set of Venhill lines from or is it best to go direct?

Also, there seems to be quite a big price difference between selecting chrome or stainless steel banjos. Is there any great advantage to going for the more expensive stainless ones?

Fazer 1000/FZ1 corner / Fork Oil Change
« on: 15 July 2016, 11:17:41 pm »
I decided to change the fork oil today. Followed the instructions in the Haynes manual, which says to measure and note the position of the spring spacer retaining nut. How critical is it to get this right and should both sides be the same? I measured the distance as 11.6 mm on the right side and 14.6 mm on the left side. I was expecting them to be the same or very similar.

Fazer 1000/FZ1 corner / Drilling exup bolt
« on: 17 January 2016, 09:01:06 pm »
Any tips for drilling out and re-tapping a snapped exup bolt? I'm fairly competent with the spanners but have never tackled anything like this.


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