Did I just foc up a brake pad?

[ReflexiveBeef]

Evening gents, I've come here to shame myself. Every time I mess with brake callipers I manage to make a total arse of the job in some way or another with brake fluid pissing where it shouldn't, pistons popping out and generally making a bad situation worse   During my latest escapade today whilst cleaning the front right brake (which has new pads all round from previous owner) I managed to plop out a piston, spewing brake fluid over 1/3 of one of the pads which was lying on the floor right where the splurge landed . Scrubbed that shite off with me rag faster than a deer from a rifle. In a bit of a rush to get the bike back on the road for work I took my chances and cleaned & reassembled it all. Took it out for a gentle spin and no squeaks, judders, loss of braking power or anything. Pretty surprised, but to be honest with the other calliper so far untouched by my muckery, I'm wondering how to assess the damage that oil on one of the four pads up front for a second has actually done. Anyone got any tips on checking this, and the best way of cleaning this pad properly (detergent & boiling water, bake it in the oven, brake cleaner & dab/abrade, swear at it, or whatever) or if new ones are needed, but bear in mind I have a natural fear of spending money as a starving student    any guidance much appreciated!

[mickvp]

I would have thought of its still braking ok then it is fine? Not sure how much mileage there would be in trying to take the top layer of the pad away with a file or emery paper, but it's an option (mind wear a mask, don't want that dust anywhere near you).

Pads aren't that dear so if it worries you that much just replace em. I would leave well enough alone as long as your sure it's braking ok and not pulling etc thojgh....

[Frosties]

If it was me I'd clean the discs with brake cleaner and fit new pads - but that's me. I think I've got brakes that need to be spot on and won't chance it.


You may get away with baking the pads in the oven to try to remove the brake fluid or heat with a torch.

[ReflexiveBeef]

Thanks guys, I actually did manage to fix some mountain bike brakes once which met a similar fate using a combination of your suggestions - fire it up gently with a torch & then hit it with a file to take the top layer off. Turned a completely useless setup to one that squealed like a bitch to eventually biting like a mad dog, but only after after a couple of trial runs. Brake cleaner is a good shout, think I'll grab some tomorrow, douse the pad, scrub off & repeat a few times, clean the right side of the disc & give the pad a bit of abrasion to clean things up. I guess the only real worry for me is that after doing a proper job of cleaning I can't see an easy way of knowing that the right calliper is doing it's duty, other than perhaps removing the left hand calliper, locking the pistons fully in with something & taking it for a spin with the left calliper cable tied up somewhere and the right calliper doing all the braking to see if it has issues!?

[bootz76]

By the time and money spent on brake cleaner and for peace of mind I would personally replace the pads on that calliper,don't matter how fast it goes,it needs to stop damn quick at times too

[Jules-C]

If the front disks are the same temperature after riding the bike the brakes are working the same. If there is a difference in temperature then more investigation required to check if a brake seized or problem like contaminated pads

[HarryHornby]

WHOOOO HOOOOO I'm not the only one who FOCs things up! 


Reading your post was like reading one of mine when it comes to "fixing" things.


If you are worried, I would replace the pads too.


Welcome to the site BTW

[Fazerider]

If it's regular DOT4 glycol-based fluid, it'll be soluble in water... no need for expensive solvents.
Aside from that, the surface of the pad gets very much hotter than the boiling point of brake fluid, a few firm applications of the brakes will have boiled off any remaining fluid.

[ReflexiveBeef]

Thanks for the suggestions

WHOOOO HOOOOO I'm not the only one who FOCs things up! 


Reading your post was like reading one of mine when it comes to "fixing" things.

Glad to see I'm not the only Artful Bodger on here. If things don't get any more bolloxed from here on, I'll have done the situation justice.

If it's regular DOT4 glycol-based fluid, it'll be soluble in water... no need for expensive solvents.
Aside from that, the surface of the pad gets very much hotter than the boiling point of brake fluid, a few firm applications of the brakes will have boiled off any remaining fluid.

That's the stuff Fazerider, I'll give it a go later with some hot water (+ washing up liquid?) and a few hard stops.

Thanks   

[Deefer666]

I would clean the pads up with some brake cleaner and dry em off and stick em back in

[ReflexiveBeef]

I would clean the pads up with some brake cleaner and dry em off and stick em back in

Thanks Deefer, will do. Told you I always make a cock of the job when I came to pick up that shock 

[wickedmonkey]

Just wanted to thank you, jules, for this logical idea. Going to try that myself

[Bretty]

I personally would get the old tooth brush on them with neat washing up liquid or brake cleaner, depending on what I had to hand.

The best people to ask would be the pad manufacturers, try emailing them?...

[darrsi]

Brake cleaner and a few hard stops with no traffic in front of me and I reckon it'll be fine.

[BBROWN1664]

Darrsi - I would worry more about the traffic behind when doing sharp stops on an FZS600

(I know you mean in case the brakes don't work)

[darrsi]

Darrsi - I would worry more about the traffic behind when doing sharp stops on an FZS600

(I know you mean in case the brakes don't work)

Was doing that a lot when i had my front juddering issue a few years back, check the mirror / brakes on / accelerate away from cars, then kept doing it several times, mainly down the A41.
If anyone saw me doing it they must've thought i was a right retard.