Date: 05-07-22  Time: 04:55 am

Show Posts

This section allows you to view all posts made by this member. Note that you can only see posts made in areas you currently have access to.

Topics - unfazed

Pages: [1] 2 3 4
General / Givi Recall
« on: 01 July 2022, 11:20:15 am »
In case this has not been seen. Came across it yesterday
Tracer owners

General / Happier New Year
« on: 31 December 2021, 07:52:33 pm »
All the best to everybody in 2022, can't be any worse than last year, I hope

General / Happy Christmas
« on: 23 December 2021, 08:38:31 pm »
Safe Christmas to all

General / New password for Fazer Owners Club - Unofficial
« on: 28 April 2020, 07:45:40 pm »
Anyone else get one of these emails today without requesting it from

 Dear unfazed,
This mail was sent because the 'forgotten password' function has been applied to your account. To set a new password click the following link:;sa=setpassword;u=889;code=9379cad442
Username: unfazed
The Fazer Owners Club - Unofficial Team.

General / TT 2020 Cancelled :-(
« on: 16 March 2020, 08:34:20 pm »
TT 2020 Cancelled  :'(

General / Yamaha Part numbers Explained
« on: 17 February 2020, 11:09:34 pm »
I just uploaded a file called "Yamaha Part numbers Explained" to the Useful stuff.Similar to what is on other sites, but added some Fazer info. to it.Let me know of any errors that may be in it and I will update it;sa=view;down=83

General / Cafe Racer Kits
« on: 30 January 2020, 08:14:59 pm »
Cafe Racer kit for the FZS600, on MCN this week

Fazer 1000/FZ1 corner / 2001 Yamaha FZ1 Official Tech Video
« on: 01 January 2020, 11:35:08 am »
Came across this video this morning   

General / Corrosion Protection Comparsion
« on: 22 October 2019, 06:11:58 pm »

General / Beam deflectors for the continent
« on: 11 September 2019, 09:17:05 pm »
Fed up of fellows in France flashing me because of my lights and with me slowing thinking it might be the police or cameras, I decided to make up my own Beam deflectors before I headed of to France this time
Standard over the counter beam deflectors are not really any good on the Fazers as it is the reflector which deflects the beam not the lens.
They worked a treat  :D as the only time I was flashed was by another biker to warn of a police car stopped about a kilometer ahead, when I was tipping along a 'little' over the limit  :eek on a back road heading to see Merlins Tomb and the Fountain of Youth.
Backed off to 90K and saw the car with no one in it and then saw two officers inside in the middle of a field talking to a farmer on his tractor.

For Sale & Wanted / 2000-2003 FZS600 seat
« on: 18 August 2019, 06:10:37 pm »
Anyone with a good condition seat 2000 to 2003 FZS600 for sale?

Fazer 1000/FZ1 corner / First spin on an FZ1 and TRX850
« on: 02 August 2019, 08:27:41 pm »
Went to look at an 2011  FZ1 with 21000miles on it  last night with a friend who was interested in buying it. Immaculate except for a small tank dent like a knee dent and a small gouge on on the swinging arm, but nothing major. Didn't realise I knew the owner until we arrived to look at it. There was lot of traffic so the prospective owner just rode it around the car park. Owner offered me a spin on it, at first I declined as I had no gear but he gave me his jacket, helmet and gloves and said go on. Since I ride all the time traffic does not worry me much. I was surprise how quick it was, but a bit snatchy on and off the throttle in the traffic, got through the traffic to a clear bit of road, with a few bends, handled well even though it was a bit hard for my liking, but ruined by one pain in the arse bit, 'the fuel cut off system'. It was like driving a car with turbo lag. I thought this issue was sorted on the later models. If my friend does buy it, the FCE is the first thing I would tell him to fit. It ruined what was otherwise a very nice bike.

The burning question is, Would I change the FZS1000 for one? Absolutely not. The biggest turn off is the small tank compared to the FZS1000.
On the way home my friend gave me the key of his 340hp BMW twin turbo 535d auto estate with paddle shift, what a weapon, every time I powered out of a bend the traction control light kept flashing  :lol tiptronic was surprisingly good very quick to change. Even on sport setting it was not great to hold the road as it rolled a lot, but a rocket in a straight line :D Enjoyed that  :eek

He asked me if he could take my FZS1000 for a spin so he could compare the two when he takes the FZ1 for a spin on Sunday evening. Today we went out swapped bikes (he has an 97 TRX850) he came back with a big grin and his only complaint was it that it was heavy, but then compared to the TRX is weighs a ton. TRX was nice to ride with the riding position very comfortable for a bike with low bars and very very torquey. Took some time to get used to all the torque since I use the gears a lot. That was also a bit hard on the suspension but since he has 4 stone on me it was fine for him. The only issue I found was that the wheel bearing seem to be worn, but we will check them after the weekend.
Nice start to the bank holiday weekend  :D

I just finished creating a condensed circuit diagram of the Starter cut out and Side stand cut out circuitry for the Fazer1000. Got a lot of question on this over the years, hopefully this will reduce confusion  :) or create more confusion :lol

Fazer 1000/FZ1 corner / 2006 0n R6 throttle tube
« on: 08 March 2019, 07:28:59 pm »
Always lamenting the longer throttle on the Fzs1000 compared to the Fzs600 I fixed it today by fitting the 2006 on R6 Throttle tube today. Yamaha part number is 2C0-26240-00
 Much better now and more like the 600 when blipping the throttle now on down changes. The 1000 throttle tube has about a 36mm diameter cable section as standard whereas the R6 one has about 40mm diameter cable section. The early R6 is too similar to the FZS1000 to be worthwhile.Fitting was straight forward enough, lift the tank, get as much slack on the cables as you can. Loosen the lock nut on the rear cable and wind it all the way back.  Wind out the adjuster on the front cable to allow you dislodge the front cable from its the mounting. Undo the knurled lock ring on the cable near the front brake lever and wind it back all the then screw the adjuster back all the way. Remover the end weight. Remove the two Allen bolts on the switch gear (longest one to the front. Lift off the kill switch section and then remove the cables rear one first. Rotate the tube forward(anticlockwise) and undo the front cable at the bottom. Install the front cable first on with the tube cable holding section down and put the front cable into what seems like the wrong hole the rear one as you look at the tube. Now rotate the tube clockwise to bring the cable mount to the top and install the rear cable. Put it all back together locating the switch gear in the hole if using the original bars, ensure the black disc is on the outside of the switch gear and replace the Allen bolts tighten them up.This is metal into plastic so do not over tighten them.
At the carburetor side relocate the front cable and tighten up the adjuster. Check the slack on the throttle and turn the bars full left and full right checking the slack each time. rear side was a bit more fiddly as I need to get maximum possible slack here. Pushing the cable down on the mount and using a fine screwdriver turn the lock nut anti clockwise as far as possible literally wiggling the throttle cable while doing so to get the maximum turns. Tighten the locknut and check the slack again bars straight ahead and full lock left and right. Any slack can now be taken up this the cable adjuster near the front brake lever.

General / On the tools
« on: 28 December 2018, 04:23:35 pm »
 Saw this on another forum, something we can nearly all relate to  :lol I could add a few more to it and most of us probably could also  :D
Home mechanics advice sheet
 DRILL PRESS: A tall upright machine useful for suddenly snatching flat metal bar stock out of your hands so that it smacks you in the chest and flings your beer across the room, denting the freshly-painted project which you had carefully set in the corner where nothing could get to it.
 WIRE WHEEL: Cleans paint off bolts and then throws them somewhere under the workbench with the speed of light. Also removes fingerprints and hard-earned calluses from fingers in about the time it takes you to say, 'Oh sh --'
 SKILL SAW: A portable cutting tool used to make studs too short.
 PLIERS: Used to round off bolt heads. Sometimes used in the creation of blood-blisters.
 BELT SANDER: An electric sanding tool commonly used to convert minor touch-up jobs into major refinishing jobs.
 HACKSAW: One of a family of cutting tools built on the Ouija board principle... It transforms human energy into a crooked, unpredictable motion, and the more you attempt to influence its course, the more dismal your future becomes.
 MOLE-GRIPS: Generally used after pliers to completely round off bolt heads. If nothing else is available, they can also be used to transfer intense welding heat to the palm of your hand.
 OXYACETYLENE TORCH: Used almost entirely for lighting on fire various flammable objects in your shop. Also handy for igniting the grease inside the wheel hub out of which you want to remove a bearing race.
 TABLE SAW: A large stationary power tool commonly used to launch wood projectiles for testing wall integrity.
 HYDRAULIC FLOOR JACK: Used for lowering a bike to the ground after you have installed your new brake shoes, trapping the jack handle firmly under the exhaust.
 BAND SAW: A large stationary power saw primarily used by most shops to cut good aluminium sheet into smaller pieces that more easily fit into the trash can after you cut on the inside of the line instead of the outside edge.
 TWO-TON ENGINE HOIST: A tool for testing the maximum tensile strength of everything you forgot to disconnect.
 PHILLIPS SCREWDRIVER: Normally used to stab the vacuum seals under lids or for opening old-style paper-and-tin oil cans and splashing oil on your shirt; but can also be used, as the name implies, to strip out Phillips screw heads.
 STRAIGHT SCREWDRIVER: A tool for opening paint cans. Sometimes used to convert common slotted screws into non-removable screws and butchering your palms.
 PRY BAR: A tool used to crumple the metal surrounding that clip or bracket you needed to remove in order to replace a 50 p part.
 HOSE CUTTER: A tool used to make hoses too short.
 HAMMER: Originally employed as a weapon of war, the hammer nowadays is used as a kind of divining rod to locate the most expensive parts adjacent the object we are trying to hit.
 UTILITY KNIFE: Used to open and slice through the contents of cardboard cartons delivered to your front door; works particularly well on contents such as seats, vinyl records, liquids in plastic bottles, collector magazines, and rubber or plastic parts. Especially useful for slicing work clothes, but only while in use.
 SON OF A BITCH TOOL: Any handy tool that you grab and throw across the garage while yelling 'Son of a bitch' at the top of your lungs. It is also, most often, the next tool that you will need   Reply With Quote

General / That time of Year again "Happy Christmas"
« on: 15 December 2018, 11:19:34 pm »
Happy Christmas to all you Foccers

General / New Brexit Coin for 2019
« on: 31 October 2018, 04:09:57 pm »
New coin due out in April 2019

Fazer 1000/FZ1 corner / New upload
« on: 21 October 2018, 09:04:10 pm »
Forgot to let you lads know, I uploaded a file on the difference changing sprockets or tyres will make to the speed of the Fazer 1000.
It is an XLSX file which allows you to enter the Sprocket sizes or tyre sizes and and see the difference it makes to the speed in each gear.I found it I think on the FZ1 site on the net a good while ago and modified it to make it easier to follow, hope the original owner does not mind.
Forgot all about it until some one asked a question about sprocket changes on Facebook.It is under useful stuff in the downloads section

Fazer 1000/FZ1 corner / Coolant dripping
« on: 21 August 2018, 07:24:33 pm »
Arrived home this evening to find coolant driping from the left side of the 1000  :grumble :'( Looks like the bypass hose, remembered seeing an nick in it when changing the chain 25000km ago. May have been pinched by the sprocket cover or damaged when the chain broke before I bought it.   All bikes off the road now, front end off the 600 to replace fork seal and head race bearing and swinging arm off the serow to have it painted  :'( :'( All is not lost my son is not using his fazer this week or next :woot

General / Ultimate in Bike security
« on: 27 April 2018, 09:21:55 am »
Click the image to open in full size.

For Sale & Wanted / Haynes Boxeye Service Manual
« on: 19 March 2018, 11:01:21 pm »
I have a Haynes Service Manual for the Fzs600 Boxeye.

Free just pay the postage

General / Wasp Motorcycles Retro Fazer
« on: 05 March 2018, 02:05:43 pm »
Interesting read on MCN last Wednesday

Wasp Motorcycles built retro using the 2000 Fzs600 engine

General / MotoGP Technology 3rd edition
« on: 08 February 2018, 11:27:42 am »
Has any else bought the latest  book by Neil Spalding on MotoGP Technology 3rd Edition?

I had a knee replacement operation 3 weeks ago, off work and cannot Ride or Drive. :'(

I bought this book and it arrived 3 days after I came out of hospital and can say it has kept me sane for the past 2 weeks. Without doubt one of the most interesting books I would say I have ever read. I usually speed read, but this I have read word for word and definitely the best 40 notes I have ever spent. :)

If you have any interest in the MOTGP it is definitely a book worth reading. :thumbup

My problem now is what the foc am I going to do when I finish it this evening :'(

After 3 days of Daytime TV,  between ads for Over fifty Life Insurance, funeral insurance , leave something in your will to some crowd, elderly go karts, save the tiger, the snow leopard the dog, the elephant, cats and every other foccing thing you could think of, Jermy Kyle and Doctors :foc I couldn't hack it any longer.

Thankfully I am getting a bit more mobile and can head back to the garage to finish fixing my Serow this weekend.  :woot

Back the the original reason for the post if you do have an interest in MotoGP the book is worth buying and if you can get it for less then 40 notes all the better

Roll on the next month to be back biking  :)

General / Do you use a GPS on holidays by bike
« on: 04 December 2017, 10:06:05 pm »
Out of curiosity, any one out there like me, who never uses a GPS when going on Holidays by bike.

Definitely think the GPS takes all the fun out of going on holidays by bike, :eek
 Taking the wrong route and finding out it is far better than the one a GPS would have taken you.
 Getting lost and having to stop and ask direction only to have the fellow you are trying to speak to is stone deaf
 Getting lost and having to stop and ask direction from a couple in a car and discover they are totally naked :
 Nearly missing the ferry because you took a wrong turn
 The fun in the high speed ride to get back on the right route and making the ferry by 5 minutes.
 Going through Belgium for the first time and discovering they have the worst road signage in Europe.
 Trying to find your way out of Mons in Belgium when both routes to the motorway are completely blocked by overturned trucks.
 Discovering the sign for Paris in Belgium is also the road to Masstricht which is in the opposite direction.
 Watching a fellow with a GPS getting into a total panic in Southern Spain because the GPS battery went flat
 I think I will stick with the ould general area map, my €50 phone and my €80 Tablet with maps downloaded to it; way more fun and a lot cheaper than the GPS.

Pages: [1] 2 3 4