front fork adjuster screw and 190 tyres

[bazza]

picked my fzs1000 up weekend and now having to move across the forum from fzs600 to thou. 2 issues i've discovered, the left hand lower fork adjusting screw is proper mullard and seized, so has anyone tried drilling these out and what lies behind, as in will the fork oil pour out, currently soaking it every day with oil but hold out no hope. Other issue is handling not to my liking, have played with rear shock and bottom adjuster was 43 clicks out?? , so have it currently set on 10 out which improved things but still not right for me, so on checking it has rear tyre of 190, looking at specs its meant to be 180, also they are metzeler sportac. so, any ideas why someone would change to 190, as that may account for it seemingly dropping into corners. also are these tyres any good as i've never really been a fan of metzelers, will be used all year round , so whats more important to me is a good rain tyre

[robbo]

No doubt the previous owner had the 190 fitted purely for looks, as it is detrimental to the handling. I’ve being using the Metzeler Roadtec 01, upgraded in recent years to the  Roadtec 01 SE, since2016, and have no desire to change to an alternative. Fast warm up and faultless in the wet, and reasonably good mileage for the performance. The only alternative I might consider is the Metz M9RR, a bit more sporty at the expense of wet weather performance. Seeing as I’m not a fair weather rider, the Roadtec 01SE more than suits my needs.

[PieEater]

@bazza It may be worth you reading through the Gen1 FAQ as it has suggestions on improving handling as well as a link to a method to free seized compression damping adjusters 

[bazza]

thanks for input Robbo, I have the m9 RR on at mo, sportec,, dont recon they be much cop in the rain but I will have look at the roadtec, they could well be an option as I recon I have no more than 1500 miles left in rear. Also thanks pieEater I have had look at the link but my screw looks like a neandathol has had a go at it, not much left on it to do anything with, I think I shall have to look at it as a challenge to my engineering skills. I did speak to the dealer I got it from to see if it would come under their 30 warranty and, surprise surprise it doesnt

[b1k3rdude]

No doubt the previous owner had the 190 fitted purely for looks, as it is detrimental to the handling.

Yep, you need to remove that ASAP. I can recomend Avon 3DXM's as I have them on my GSF1250 and my old FZS1000 (before I upgraded to an FZ1, but will put 3DXM on that when the PR5's wear out.) -

Rear - https://tyretectrading.co.uk/tyres/avon-storm-3d-x-m-180-55zr17-73w-tl-rear-motorcycle-tyre/
Front - https://tyretectrading.co.uk/tyres/avon-storm-3d-x-m-120-70zr17-58w-tl-front-motorcycle-tyre/

Regarding the fork a adjuster - have you tried some gentle heat from a propane torch.

[bazza]

A bit of heat was my next option along with digging out my dremmel to cut a new slot in it,, currently keep spraying it with oil every night, will check out the Avon's also, thanks

[fazerscotty]

A bit of heat was my next option along with digging out my dremmel to cut a new slot in it,, currently keep spraying it with oil every night, will check out the Avon's also, thanks

I've recently gone from PR4's to the Avon's. Jeez, what a difference. Bike feels so much smoother and quicker through corners/roundabouts.

[Gaz66]

Hi Baz.


My Comp adjusters were seized too.
Put a piece of clear PVC pipe over alloy section, couple of tie wraps on tight & flooded em with decent penetrating oil, left it for wks & it did feck all, yrs of hardened crap stop any oil getting in.


Decided to do a full K-tech refurb, so dropped forks, stripped em & removed the complete Comp adjusters.
My experience is you need to get the lower leg quite hot with a hot air gun, don't heat the actual Comp adjuster itself, it's  a sealed unit & has O-rings inside that may melt,.
Comp adjuster alloy housing is thread locked into fork leg, heat will crack the thread lock if u get it hot & penetrating oil down the threads & rock adjuster back n forth with a good fitting spanner, there's a special socket for the job, but it aint cheap so it was a no brainer spanner option for me.
Don't go at it too hard with a spanner, heat & lube & it'll come free, it's not that tight, unless it winds out nice & easy, work it out as if you were tap threading a hole.
Once it's cracked loose, use plenty of lube or it'll gawl the threads up, I had one that was a right mare to get out & had to be re-threaded.

Heat gun process actually helped free off the brass adjuster a bit too, but mine were coming out anyway as forks were being stripped & painted.


A few sessions in ultrasonic bath & brass adjuster screw came free & clicks as it should after a good dousing in ACF50 & several full winds in & out, they now function like new.
If considering a dremel to re-cut the brass screw slot, be super careful, there's an alloy ring around brass adjuster screw, it looks like this holds the whole centre section in place as it appears to be peened over around the screw, muller this ring & the whole unit may be leak oil/fall apart & generally be scrap?


I wouldn't recommend ever using a blow torch either, you'll very likely destroy the Comp adjuster, as it's sealed & has O-rings inside, it surprised me how much crap came out of em in my Sonic bath.
Spent ages tidying up the brass adjuster screw with rifling needle files, I made an alloy driver out of some scrap stuff, it's now my dedicated suspension screw twiddler & it won't muller the brass screw like a steel driver will.


If you go down this route & remove the Comp adjusters, there's a thin steel washer under its base, don't loose it or you're knackered.


Hope my many hrs spent in finding the above out helps others planning on attempting removing the wonderfully engineered Comp adjusters.
Cheers Yamaha "NOT".

If you destroy em, it's eBay for some more forks, Comp adjusters aren't available from Yamaha & I can't find anyone that make any that'll fit these fork legs, hence can't be bought for love nor money.


Bin the 190 & fit a correct 180 or you'll end up in the weeds.


Rgds
Gaz

[bazza]

Thanks Gaz for very informative reply,, it's certainly made me think a bit more about it. I certainly wont be trying with dremmel. I have a bike breakers only 10 miles away so could always pop in if need a new leg,, if they havent got one I can get them to let me know when they get one in,, also thinking maybe there is a market here for these adjusters, as my brother is a turner/cnc so could get him to make some, only trouble being he is about 250 miles away in sunny somerset.

[b1k3rdude]

I wouldn't recommend ever using a blow torch either, you'll very likely destroy the Comp adjuster, as it's sealed & has O-rings inside,

Good point, I hadn't considered that.

As you say remove the whole assembly and get it ultrasonicaly cleaned @OP beware doing this will of course drain the forks of fork oil and all that entails.

[Gaz66]

Thanks Gaz for very informative reply,, it's certainly made me think a bit more about it. I certainly wont be trying with dremmel. I have a bike breakers only 10 miles away so could always pop in if need a new leg,, if they havent got one I can get them to let me know when they get one in,, also thinking maybe there is a market here for these adjusters, as my brother is a turner/cnc so could get him to make some, only trouble being he is about 250 miles away in sunny somerset.

I agree there's a defo market for these Comp adjusters, think how many Gen1 1000's are out there, most have seized Comp adjusters, there's plenty aftermarket adjusters around for sale, but none I can find that'll fit, I did consider a smaller adjuster & sleeve the hole in the Fazer fork down, but the cost of a 1 off would be prohibitive, hence I sorted mine with blood & sweat.


They're nothing too complicated, it's basically just a Brass tapered metering needle screw type affair that's "O-ring" sealed & basically riveted into a housing to slow or speed up oil flow, it would take a bit of fabricating from scratch, easiest option would be to buy another branded adjuster & disassemble & reverse engineer it in a size to fit the Fazer legs.