03 1000 cut out and wont start

[FazThou]

Hey newbie here 
I took my fazer 1000 out the other morning and it only went about 20 yards and cut out, nothing when i pushed the starter button and the meta alarm fob wouldnt do anything
Battery is fine in the fob and there is power getting to the alarm unit.
Read alot of threads about the alarms so decided to remove it.
Was a bit of a faff but managed to remove all the black wires from the alarm, then its time to rejoin the wires 
Managed to get the starter to work but wouldn't fire up.
After a bit of playing and wiring diagram searching i worked out where the other wires should go (hope its correct lol )
But now the starter circuit cutoff relay is playing up as there is no live for the starter at the relay now, also have no neutral light showing.
I have ordered a replacement relay so awaiting arrival to fit and test (will keep you informed)
If i have missed something then any help will be welcomed


cheers lads and lasses

[unfazed]

  Why on earth did you not ask on here first when you saw a bunch of black wires. It's is a 5 minute job when you know how to do it. Now it is a totally different ball game and the chance of doing damage increasing exponentially.

Do you have the correct wiring diagram for the model of bike you have, there are 3 different wiring diagrams maybe even 4.   

What bike do you have send a picture of the under seat code?

[b1k3rdude]

@unfazed, prolly because they didnt know about Faxthou didnt know about the website before the fact.

@fazthou, as you have disconnect a bunch of unmarked wires there is no realistic way for anyone one on here to help you. You are unfortunatly going to have to take the bike to a motorcycle alarm fitter or have them come to you.

Also whats the status of the battery in the bike? if you haven't ridden the bike for a while its entirely possible the battery needs either a good charge or possibly replacing,.

[Gnasher]

Meta unfortunately got a bad name with their alarms mainly because of bad fitting and owners allowing the internal battery to die, which once their bike battery died would shut down the alarm locking it.  I've had 4 of them a 351A and 3 357s, 2 wired in by a mate and 2 by me, I didn't have any problems whatsoever, unlike Data units 

Mata alarms are good, which is why Yamaha UK had them as their official system for a why, back when you couldn't get bike insurance on some models without having an alarm fitted.  From my experience fitting and removing them it's not straightforward, hence all the problems, all the wires are black and labeled, with the labels being removed after fitting.  There are six possible types  M355, M351A, M357(T), M357TV2, M357TV2-1 & Defcom(3 or T).  Yours is most likely one of the 357 versions but it could be a 351 old stock fitted by a stealer, these system (as all where back the day) had to be fitted by registered fitters to get the insurance cert.  That said many where fake photo copies.

Look on the bottom of the alarm unit there will be a sticker that will identify your version. 

The units can be wired almost countless ways, there is default but many weren't wired to it and a lot didn't even get all wired in, stealers taking shortcuts i.e. time it takes around 4-5 hrs to wire one in properly.  The fact all the wires are black and designed to be hard wired means it's a almost complete strip down of the bikes bodywork, tank, etc to get at the loom and then you've got to pretty much strip the loom. This made hot wiring on the street impossible even in a garage extremely difficult and very time consuming, that's their strength, scumbags avoided them.

Wired in as it was intended you've got little chance of getting one out without doing all the above mentioned, the one's I wired in for sure you won't.  This is also their Achilles heel stealers cut corners as mentioned and just run wires along the loom without over tapping or cutting in, so it's a just a matter of tracing things.  This was one of the main reasons insurance companies dropped them and the fact manufactures started to hard wire their own systems into the the bikes. 

If you've just gone and cut things the system will have locked itself.  Unless it's obvious which wire you've cut goes with which in order to rejoin them, you're going to have to strip as mentioned above and then you're going to need either the reset key or code depending on what model you've got.  One saving grace is most owners never change the factory set code same on many other types.  If you can't do that yourself and it's been wired in properly, it's going to be very costly, if you can find someone willing to touch it.  Fingers crossed you've got a crap stealer fitment and you can sort it.

Basically you've got really only one choice remove the whole thing and then hope you can replace the bikes wiring back together.

Good luck mate.                           

[FazThou]

@unfazed: to be honest didnt really know about the forum until i started googling 
@b1k3rdude: battery in the bike is fine and has been ridden recently
@gnasher: alarm model was 357v2, but its immaterial now as it has been totally removed, as have all the wires.
As stated the starter cicuit cutoff relay is not working correctly
Maybe i jumped the gun blaming the alarm and it might have just been the relay after all lol, but cant understand why the fob didnt do anything ?


But as of now the loom is fully opened and i can get it running
So i am awaiting the relay and if that works then all good, if not then plan b 

[unfazed]

What symptom did you have that pointed you to the starter relay?
They are a rare failure and usually caused by scumbags trying to hot wire the bike  or owners trying to remove alarms connecting wires together get the bike to run and blowing the starter relay diodes
Those diodes can be replaced if necessary. If your lucky the Side stand switch and neutral light will still be working. On the very very rare occasion they blow the Ignitor.

[Gnasher]

@gnasher: alarm model was 357v2, but its immaterial now as it has been totally removed, as have all the wires.
As stated the starter cicuit cutoff relay is not working correctly
Maybe i jumped the gun blaming the alarm and it might have just been the relay after all lol, but cant understand why the fob didnt do anything ?

I'm assuming the alarm was poorly fitted then if you have removed it so easily?  Part of the correct hard wire is that it's cut into the loom, just by removing it without restoring all the original circuits and depending on how it was wired some or all of the ignitor, coil, pick up coil, starter relay, kill switch, ignition power circuits will be cut.         

But as of now the loom is fully opened and i can get it running

The loom is fully opened, so you cut open the binding on the loom to remove the alarm, now the bike starts?

So i am awaiting the relay and if that works then all good, if not then plan b 

What is plan B?

[FazThou]

What symptom did you have that pointed you to the starter relay?
They are a rare failure and usually caused by scumbags trying to hot wire the bike  or owners trying to remove alarms connecting wires together get the bike to run and blowing the starter relay diodes
Those diodes can be replaced if necessary. If your lucky the Side stand switch and neutral light will still be working. On the very very rare occasion they blow the Ignitor.

The power to the relay from the kill switch is fine but i cant get any power out of the relay( one of the open wires might have touched to earth and "[/size]blown the starter relay diodes" ) hence ordered a replacement
hopefully the ignitor is ok

[FazThou]

I'm assuming the alarm was poorly fitted then if you have removed it so easily?  Part of the correct hard wire is that it's cut into the loom, just by removing it without restoring all the original circuits and depending on how it was wired some or all of the ignitor, coil, pick up coil, starter relay, kill switch, ignition power circuits will be cut.         

I assume this alarm was fitted correctly as it was connected well into the loom and into oe connectors

The loom is fully opened, so you cut open the binding on the loom to remove the alarm, now the bike starts?

No sorry badly worded, the loom is completely opened and i can temporarily connect wires to various places to get it to start, but would like to get the replacement relay and not have it "hot wired" 

[Gnasher]

I assume this alarm was fitted correctly as it was connected well into the loom and into oe connectors

If it was fitted correctly i.e. if I'd done it, you'd have to completely cut open and remove large parts of the loom from the bike to get at the hard wiring and they would be more than one splice per circuit.  Also no wiring should be going in to OE connectors, as like you've done found them too easily.  The fitting to your bike a poor job.

No sorry badly worded, the loom is completely opened and i can temporarily connect wires to various places to get it to start, but would like to get the replacement relay and not have it "hot wired" 

I think you're idea of completely open and mine, are some worlds apart  It would appear from what you're saying the alarm fitting is a all too common poor job, hence partly why they aren't any longer insisted upon alarms being fitted.  That fact has made you life relatively straightforward and what you're predicting 'starter relay' is your problem, fingers crossed it is.

Keep us posted 

[Gaz66]

Since you've shot ya sen in foot diving in like a 🙈 & chopping alarm loom, your best option now is eBay for a 2nd hand loom.
It's easy to jump wire siren multi plug & leave alarm feeds in place, assuming loom has no loose or corroded connections... Done loads.
Not that difficult to fully unpick loom &;put back to factory, just a bit time consuming.


IMHO Meta alarms are dog shit.
Far better off wiring in a secret switch that cuts fuel pump or kill switch.
No tea leaf is likely to find it if hidden well.



Good luck 🖒

[Decoke Dave]

    Aftermarket motorcycle alarms.     Only good for making the people who sell/fit them money!  Otherwise a world of hurt!    Forget the “ cheaper insurance” pish only the people selling them push that one.  Avoid! Buy a lock and chain if you feel the need!

[FazThou]

Thanks for the comments fellas 
The alarm was on it when i bought it many years ago
My replacement relay has now arrived so hopefully be fitting it at the weekend if i get time
will keep you informed of progress

[FazThou]

Why on earth did you not ask on here first when you saw a bunch of black wires. It's is a 5 minute job when you know how to do it. Now it is a totally different ball game and the chance of doing damage increasing exponentially.

Do you have the correct wiring diagram for the model of bike you have, there are 3 different wiring diagrams maybe even 4.   

What bike do you have send a picture of the under seat code?

How will i know if it is the correct wiring diagram for my bike?
Code under seat is 5lv1-080
Thanks in advance

[FazThou]

After a bit of checking as to why there is no neutral light, i pulled the plug from the neutral switch and earthed it out ( ignitor side of the cable) and the neutral light came on and the power was back from the starter cutoff relay to the start button
SO.... by my reckoning the neutral switch is kaput!!!!


What do you guys think ?


If this cures it i might have a few spare bits for sale 

[unfazed]

Why on earth did you not ask on here first when you saw a bunch of black wires. It's is a 5 minute job when you know how to do it. Now it is a totally different ball game and the chance of doing damage increasing exponentially.

Do you have the correct wiring diagram for the model of bike you have, there are 3 different wiring diagrams maybe even 4.   

What bike do you have send a picture of the under seat code?

How will i know if it is the correct wiring diagram for my bike?
Code under seat is 5lv1-080
Thanks in advance

The code makes it a 2001 model, download this \https://foc-u.co.uk/index.php?action=downloads;sa=downfile&id=11 and it is the   Wiring Diagram (EUR) .
As I said earlier if your lucky you won't have blown the Neutral light Switch or Side Stand Switch, It looks like you were not that lucky. You going to need to test the Side Stand switch now also.

[FazThou]

Thanks unfazed, thats the diagram i have got.
UPDATE:
Correct wires soldered and heatshrunk back together, loom rewrapped, new neutral switch fitted and she fired straight up ....... woohoo!


Big thanks to all that helped out with the extra bit of knowledge i was missing


I now have a few spares that werent needed hehe